Monroe recommends changing your shocks/struts every 50,000 miles.......

[redgtxdi]

I've been contemplating these new "Quik Struts" from Monroe for my '98 Camry.......(125,000 miles) as the suspension is getting pretty loose these days, but that's only because I want to do a thorough job.........it's easier to change the whole strut assembly rather than just changing the strut itself & compressing/reassembling, etc. etc.


I just wonder what folks who "wouldn't" do their own struts do???


Let's see..........you go buy your $20K sedan & every 50,000 miles you're supposed to drop $1K to have somebody change your struts??? Oh, and don't forget that alignment when you're done. You don't just change struts. (I'm assuming that a good mechanic will also change out all bushings, strut mounts, links and/or link ends, etc. when doing the job).

 

[The Stigenator]

i need a new suspension system onmy foucs its getting pretty bad. I got to save up to do it.

Ugh! I need new springs and shocks/struts.

 

[Zenmervolt]

Shocks/struts should last 100,000 miles....

And Monroe shocks/struts shouldn't cost that much. They're not awful, but they're a common, inexpensive, mass-market piece. Sachs, Boge, KYB or Koni will be better choices.

ZV

 

[redgtxdi]

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
Shocks/struts should last 100,000 miles....

And Monroe shocks/struts shouldn't cost that much. They're not awful, but they're a common, inexpensive, mass-market piece. Sachs, Boge, KYB or Koni will be better choices.

ZV

Actually the QuickStrut is about the smartest innovation in struts since.......well.......struts!

And, no the others aren't necessarily better. It depends on the line you're getting. Cheap Koni's, top of the line Monroes, etc. etc.

Problem is that struts are not a job most people can do. They are left to professionals for......

1.) Safety reasons
2.) Difficulty in properly assembly upon install
3.) Lack of knowledge about them, period.

Add labor to those $99 struts (per wheel) & you're up there around a grand after all the extra parts, links, mounts, bushings (don't forget sway bushings while you're in there if you don't want noise) and the alignment after you're all done.

THAT'S the problem w/ struts!

 

[KK]

how do you know that you need struts or shocks?

 

[Phoenix86]

Ever ask a barber if you need a haircut? Yeah...

 

[herbiehancock]

Originally posted by: redgtxdi

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
Shocks/struts should last 100,000 miles....

And Monroe shocks/struts shouldn't cost that much. They're not awful, but they're a common, inexpensive, mass-market piece. Sachs, Boge, KYB or Koni will be better choices.

ZV

Actually the QuickStrut is about the smartest innovation in struts since.......well.......struts!

And, no the others aren't necessarily better. It depends on the line you're getting. Cheap Koni's, top of the line Monroes, etc. etc.

Problem is that struts are not a job most people can do. They are left to professionals for......

1.) Safety reasons
2.) Difficulty in properly assembly upon install
3.) Lack of knowledge about them, period.

Add labor to those $99 struts (per wheel) & you're up there around a grand after all the extra parts, links, mounts, bushings (don't forget sway bushings while you're in there if you don't want noise) and the alignment after you're all done.

THAT'S the problem w/ struts!

Let's see.......the best Monroes aren't in the same class as even the cheapest Koni's, Bilsteins, KYBs or Sachs.

And if your bushings you're so concerned about weren't making noise before the struts were replaced, why would they suddenly be making noise after new struts are put in?

About the quick struts...way overpriced. I don't need new springs....mine aren't sagging and since my suspension has specific springs for the car, putting in quick struts is going to take away my stifffer springs and put in generic softer springs.

And what if my top plate bearing isn't bad.....replace it anyway? Talk about cost-ineffectiveness.

My struts cost $75/per for Bilsteins......that's $150 for the pair. Labor to put them in....I was charged $125 to install the front pair...I have normal shocks on the rear and did them myself....four bolts, simple.

4-wheel alignment was around $50.

So, my total was $325 + some tax on the struts.

Don't know where you got a grand to put in a pair of struts.



And Monroe would recommend replacing them every 50K miles....because they're junk!

To top it off.......take a vehicle like the Chrysler T&C/Dodge Caravan/Plymouth Voyager triplets. Mopar has over a dozen or so different struts listed as fitments for those vans.....depending on engine, suspension choices, optional equip. length of van, etc.

Monroe gives 3 choices.....so it's simply amazing that over a dozen can be culled down to 3......unfortunately, in some of those vans, none of those 3 choices really fit correctly....you have to use the OEM strut if you want the proper ride and fit.

Yeah, great Monroe struts.......great for suckers out there. They're the Fram filters or Bose speakers of the shock world.

 

[AMCRambler]

Originally posted by: herbiehancock

Originally posted by: redgtxdi

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
Shocks/struts should last 100,000 miles....

And Monroe shocks/struts shouldn't cost that much. They're not awful, but they're a common, inexpensive, mass-market piece. Sachs, Boge, KYB or Koni will be better choices.

ZV

Actually the QuickStrut is about the smartest innovation in struts since.......well.......struts!

And, no the others aren't necessarily better. It depends on the line you're getting. Cheap Koni's, top of the line Monroes, etc. etc.

Problem is that struts are not a job most people can do. They are left to professionals for......

1.) Safety reasons
2.) Difficulty in properly assembly upon install
3.) Lack of knowledge about them, period.

Add labor to those $99 struts (per wheel) & you're up there around a grand after all the extra parts, links, mounts, bushings (don't forget sway bushings while you're in there if you don't want noise) and the alignment after you're all done.

THAT'S the problem w/ struts!

Let's see.......the best Monroes aren't in the same class as even the cheapest Koni's, Bilsteins, KYBs or Sachs.

And if your bushings you're so concerned about weren't making noise before the struts were replaced, why would they suddenly be making noise after new struts are put in?

About the quick struts...way overpriced. I don't need new springs....mine aren't sagging and since my suspension has specific springs for the car, putting in quick struts is going to take away my stifffer springs and put in generic softer springs.

And what if my top plate bearing isn't bad.....replace it anyway? Talk about cost-ineffectiveness.

My struts cost $75/per for Bilsteins......that's $150 for the pair. Labor to put them in....I was charged $125 to install the front pair...I have normal shocks on the rear and did them myself....four bolts, simple.

4-wheel alignment was around $50.

So, my total was $325 + some tax on the struts.

Don't know where you got a grand to put in a pair of struts.

Usually while you're replacing the struts you're going to replace strut mounts and bushings, strut mount bearings and possibly the spring seat bushings too. All that crap adds up, plus when finished you need to get the car aligned. I could see doing all four struts on a car costing at least $400 in parts and then the labor is going to get you close to a grand. If you go for good parts and have a mechanic do it, then a grand will be a certainty. We did my friends Neon with KYB struts, eibach lowering springs and all those extras and that ended up close to $600 bucks for everything. Those stupid Eibach springs he bought were real exepensive and now he has to creep over speed bumps so he regrets getting them. Nitwit threw out his stock springs too so we cant even swap them back.

 

[redgtxdi]

Thanks to AMCRambler, saving me the time of having to try & reply to Herbie who obviously bought some Bose speakers in the past........LOL!!!

:laugh:

 

[alkemyst]

Strut jobs are not difficult. You shouldn't need to replace all the bushings in a 50-100k strut swap either.

The bearing(tops) are usually decent, the rubber spring insulators are usually fine and if not rubber hose is a alternative to a dealer part. The bushings in general though esp from a discounter like rockauto.com or shockwarehouse should be under $15-20 per corner...the struts themselves for many cars should be $50-100 per pair. I have done about 10 strut R&R's now, usually any take about 2-3 hours tops.

You need an alignment after this, mark the stock settings with a crayon so you can get it 'close' for the drive in.

Guy at work didn't know I can do this work, he paid $2k for his brakes and struts on a Tahoe (alignment was extra)....parts were around $700 total shipped not even hunting much...figure 6-8 hours for the brakes and the struts. He would have saved about a grand.

 

[sonoma1993]

when I replaced the shocks on my truck, for four edelbrock ias , i payed around $350 total.

 

[91TTZ]

Originally posted by: redgtxdi
Monroe recommends changing your shocks/struts every 50,000 miles.......

Of course they do. Because they make shocks/struts. I bet people who make toothbrushes say that you should replace them very often also.

 

[redgtxdi]

Fair price for the shocks, though good ole' 2-bolt shocks are about 1000% less job than a strut job!

I still think the Quick Strut is a fantastic value!

 

[wasssup]

Car guru's: would a bad strut cause you to pull on the highway (at 70+ mph?)

I had a (crooked) mechanic burn me out of $800 a few weeks ago and replace a working strut with a junkyard strut (and do some other work without my consent), and my car has been pulling to the left (right strut was replaced) at 70+ mph. Turning is also weird (it's much easier to turn in one direction than the other, forgot which was easier though).

Another mechanic did the "push car in corner and watch it bounce" test and we noticed the front ride side where the strut was replaced doesn't bounce like the others. I'm probably buying a new car soon but don't know if I should keep this one ('99 civic ex coupe, 5speed, 120k miles) and attempt to replace the struts myself with budget KYB GS-2's or if I should just trade it in (probably won't get more than $3500). Also not sure if I should replace the springs. The car needs new tires too...

 

[redgtxdi]

Originally posted by: 91TTZ

Originally posted by: redgtxdi
Monroe recommends changing your shocks/struts every 50,000 miles.......

Of course they do. Because they make shocks/struts. I bet people who make toothbrushes say that you should replace them very often also.

They do.........but for more important reasons!

 

[Juddog]

My Dealership wants $1500 to replace my struts on a 1996 Mazda 626. The bluebook value of the car is only $3k!

I have found a full strut replacement that people have recommended on several forums for $650, but every shop I have gone to says they will only use the official Mazda struts, and those are $1200 for just the parts or so I am told.

I live in a town with a lot of potholes, so my struts are starting to get really bad, ARGH! I don't have the car experience to put them in myself. I wish I knew of a reputable shop that would put in aftermarket struts!

 

[Imported]

Wow $1k is a ripoff. I didn't have the tools with me to replace my own shocks/springs and I paid maybe $250 to get it installed by a place Tirerack recommended. They included an alignment with a followup alignment after everything settled. Paid about $600 for the shocks/springs though.. Koni Yellows and Neuspeed Sports and could have spent alot less had I gone with some other, not as good, brands.

 

[Chaotic42]

Originally posted by: Juddog
My Dealership wants $1500 to replace my struts on a 1996 Mazda 626. The bluebook value of the car is only $3k!

I have found a full strut replacement that people have recommended on several forums for $650, but every shop I have gone to says they will only use the official Mazda struts, and those are $1200 for just the parts or so I am told.

I live in a town with a lot of potholes, so my struts are starting to get really bad, ARGH! I don't have the car experience to put them in myself. I wish I knew of a reputable shop that would put in aftermarket struts!

Yeah, I got the same treatment with my 1995 626. "You should get some new struts!". Riiight.

 

[avash]

Struts (contained within spring assembly) are more complicated then shocks (separate, simple 2 bolt job) because in most cases, you will need a spring compressor to compress the spring and allow you to disassemble the entire assembly.

If you have it done at a shop, the parts aren't much but you pay in labor. For less than what the store would charge you for a strut replacement (reusing all old parts), you could do it yourself with ALL NEW parts for less .... I'm talking about every bushing, spring, strut, mount, bolt, etc.



What deters suspension noobs:
- scared of using a spring compressor after hearing stories of flying springs killing people.
- lack of power tools and realizing a 16-piece rachet/socket set won't cut it, especially after 10 years of corrosion has worked its magic and made removing bolts impossible without power tools or elbow grease and breaker bar and GOOD QUALITY sockets that won't crack.
- no torque wrench ... if you don't know what a torque wrench is, you've got a long way to go
- not knowledgeable; no factory or Chilton/Haynes service manual

What you can do to overcome them:
- get a manual and figure out all the parts that make up the entire suspension assembly
- decide if you want to:
>> replace the ENTIRE assembly (will cost you more in parts but you will save at the end if you consider the labor you pay a shop to do, less downtime) ... EASY; or
>> take apart the entire assembly to reuse parts which are still good (save on parts but have to know how to use a spring compressor/find a shop which will compress it for you at a fee, more downtime on your car)

So my recommendations, having done the suspension on my car with no prior experience ....
- get a manual, know the suspension buildup like the back of your hand
- if you can afford it, build an entirely NEW assembly at your leisure and make sure it's correct so you can simply swap the new assembly with the old ... if you can't afford it, be prepared for more downtime on the car since you have to first remove the old suspension rendering the car useless, then taking it apart, cleaning and figuring out what to re-use, reassembling it, then installing it back to the vehicle
- have power tools, or friends with power tools
- have jack stands and KNOW how to use them
- have a friend over, bribe with case of beer because you will need help, or be born with 4 hands
- get all new bolts, especially if your car is OLDER and you live in the salt belt

 

[mercanucaribe]

Struts suck. Period! Cars that use struts would be better vehicles if they used double wishbones.

 

[ThaGrandCow]

My brother replaced my struts a few months ago, went with the basic recommended ones from AutoZone. The car drives better than before, but I do have a tinkling sound in the front left area, like metal clinking on metal. This started the day the struts were replaced. Which part did he forget to replace, or what is causing the problem?

And yes, I'm sure I could have purchased [expensive but professional grade strut brand] and had more performance, but the vehicle I'm driving atm is only worth about 2 grand while I save up the last few hundred for my truck. Long term items for this car are not really an issue for me, although I would like to know what is causing the tinkling.

 

[thomsbrain]

my 91 Accord is still on the stock suspension components after the mileage in my sig. it creaks a bit over speed bumps, but it's still fine and plenty tighter than most cars. when the tires started to cup a bit, my mechanic told me it would be $1K to replace the struts, and in the same breath urged me to not bother with it. i already chewed through tires like crazy from hard driving, anyway.

 

[avash]

Originally posted by: ThaGrandCow
My brother replaced my struts a few months ago, went with the basic recommended ones from AutoZone. The car drives better than before, but I do have a tinkling sound in the front left area, like metal clinking on metal. This started the day the struts were replaced. Which part did he forget to replace, or what is causing the problem?

The spring coils will contact each other during movement AND the end coils will contact the metal strut seat (bottom) or rubber seat (top). Your noise could be coming from anywhere.

Usually, rubber isolators wrap part of the coil that touch to prevent metal to metal contact. Areas of contact would depend on the spring design. Compare both left and right sides to see if an isolator is cracked/missing. There are usually isolators at:
- bottom most coil
- 2nd top coil
- possibly in the middle somewhere

On the bottom most coil, isolators are used to prevent the bottom coil from making metal to metal contact with the strut seat.

On the top coil, there should be a rubber seat that sits between the coil and upper mount bracket (metal) and bearing. If the seat is cracked / missing / misplaced, you can get metal to metal contact. An isolator is sometimes placed on the 2nd top-most coil if the top coils rub against each other. Again, this would depend on your specific spring design.

Rubbing in between depends on specific spring design.

I hope comparing both front setups can help you find a missing/misplaced isolator. Otherwise, it could be a bad upper rubber seat.