Monitor (capacitor?) issues. Please help.

ascendant

Senior member
Jul 22, 2011
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Ok, my problem just stated last night. In short, my monitor powers off, goes completely black, and tries to turn back on every 3-4secs or so, but immediately shuts back off. It just keeps doing this over and over. Tried unplugging it from the tower and it does the same thing. Using another temporary replacement and it works fine.

From what I saw on the net, it seems like most likely it is a bad capacitor. So, I pulled the thing apart and found a few parts that were bulging (images below). Before I started buying components, I wanted to get some of your thoughts on this, as my level of hardware expertise goes little beyond building a basic desktop computer.

Two of the capacitors look like ones I can get off the net (the black ones). The other one, however, I haven't been able to locate (B - orange/red one). I've found ones similar, but not the exact one. If you could help direct me towards what part I would want to use to replace it, I would really appreciate it. The one in question is "B," but "A" is the same according to the numbers on the side of them. As you can see, B is bulging while A is narrow, making me think it needs replacement. However, I can't seem to find that one on the net.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

PhttEdh
PhttEdh.jpg


a8gfJ6n

a8gfJ6n.jpg


fYFLTRM.jpg

fYFLTRM
 

Engineer

Elite Member
Oct 9, 1999
39,230
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From this thread (looks like the same monitor as yours - at least board wise):

http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=10305

The capacitor is a Radial Polypropolene at a value of 0.15uF(150000pF) the 'J' stands for a Tolerance of 5%,and that is important,as it must be very very similar to the other one on the Board. it is rated at 250 volts.The Transistors have on them DK QC,but unable to help you with those as I have no service manual showing a Parts list.But I'm sure someone will advise you.

All of my searches indicate that it's a 0.15uF cap but I didn't locate the voltage (because I quit once I found the linked thread).
 

ascendant

Senior member
Jul 22, 2011
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Thanks for the info. As far as that other thread, people speculated, but there didn't seem to be a clear answer for that capacitor.

Anyway, here is all the information I have for "B":
On top, it reads: h154j y
Just below that, it reads: 250mpp3

I looked around on the net and found some similar items, but none specifically with the y at the end of h154j. If anyone could point me in the right direction, I would really appreciate it.

Oh, and as far as those other two, what are good brands to get? What brands should I avoid?
 

Engineer

Elite Member
Oct 9, 1999
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"154" means 15 with 4 zeros equals 0.15µF
"250" is the voltage rating, i.e. 250V
"MPP" mans it is a metalized polypropylene film capacitor
"J" = +- 5% tolerance
As for the H and the Y and the 3 after mpp, I've read that they are spacings between leads, lead diameter, etc. I would get an 15µF with 5% tolerance (J) MPP type with 250V rating.

As for the others, I don't think name brand means much, although the ones at Radio Shack seem to be shitty duds part of the time.
 

ascendant

Senior member
Jul 22, 2011
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"154" means 15 with 4 zeros equals 0.15µF
"250" is the voltage rating, i.e. 250V
"MPP" mans it is a metalized polypropylene film capacitor
"J" = +- 5% tolerance
As for the H and the Y and the 3 after mpp, I've read that they are spacings between leads, lead diameter, etc. I would get an 15µF with 5% tolerance (J) MPP type with 250V rating.

As for the others, I don't think name brand means much, although the ones at Radio Shack seem to be shitty duds part of the time.

Well thanks again for the information. I really appreciate it. As far as Radio Shack, I already learned my lesson with them. Their selection is a joke and their staff is incompetent. Guy tried to test out my capacitors and ended up electrocuting himself, lol.
 

ascendant

Senior member
Jul 22, 2011
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Oh, as far as those other two, is there anything I need to look for in particular other than it being 470uF and 25V?
 

Engineer

Elite Member
Oct 9, 1999
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Oh, as far as those other two, is there anything I need to look for in particular other than it being 470uF and 25V?

What about the temperature rating? Since I cannot see a rating on the photo you posted (hidden perhaps?), I would get as high of a temperature rating as possible (cost permitting).

Obviously, they are electrolytic so make sure of that too.
 

ascendant

Senior member
Jul 22, 2011
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What about the temperature rating? Since I cannot see a rating on the photo you posted (hidden perhaps?), I would get as high of a temperature rating as possible (cost permitting).

Obviously, they are electrolytic so make sure of that too.

Ok, thanks again for the information. You have been extremely helpful.

Now as far as electrolytic, I am not sure what that means? I am looking around at aluminum ones that appear very similar, but I see no specs indicating electrolytic on any of them in any categories?
 
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ascendant

Senior member
Jul 22, 2011
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Torn Mind

Lifer
Nov 25, 2012
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Capacitors store charge. Electrolytic capacitors use an electrolyte as one of its "plates" to store charge.
 

Engineer

Elite Member
Oct 9, 1999
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Ok, to make this easier, these are two parts that I found that seem like they would work:

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/EEU-FR1E471B/P15361CT-ND/3072241
(This was one that had a higher lifetime than most I saw on the site)

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/B32652A6154J/495-1334-ND/592910
This was the only one that I could find with specs similar to the orange one I need replaced. Though it looks much different, since the specs are the same, I'm assuming it should suffice?

The top one you linked is an aluminum electrolytic capacitor:

http://www.panasonic.com/industrial/includes/pdf/EEU-FR_introductionsheet_2010-10-05.pdf

Should be just fine for what you're using it on. 105 C is also a decent rating (much better than the 80C or 90C ratings).

Notice that the electrolytic capacitor (in your photo) has a white strip with '-' marks in it. That is the negative side of the capacitor with the other side being positive. Also, generally, the positive side has a longer lead than the negative side. This is very important to keep straight when changing. If you reverse them, you will most like pop them and at the very least, make a mess. Pretty nasty (from experience)! :p


As for your other choice, it would probably work. Higher voltage rating won't effect this, IMO.

You could also get:

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ECW-F2154JB/PF2154-ND/248824

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ECW-F2154JAQ/P14242-ND/2175325

The one you chose had a 250V AC rating and a much higher DC rating. Since I'm not 100% sure whether the originals are rated AC or DC (I suspect DC), you could go with your choice. The only thing I would be worried about on that choice is if the leads would be too big to go into the solder holes of the board, which would then need to be drilled out a little (not a fan of this).
 
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ascendant

Senior member
Jul 22, 2011
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Again, thank you so much for this, especially the note about making sure to have the negative on the right side. I think I should be good to go now. You have really been helpful and I am extremely grateful for your help.
 

Engineer

Elite Member
Oct 9, 1999
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Again, thank you so much for this, especially the note about making sure to have the negative on the right side. I think I should be good to go now. You have really been helpful and I am extremely grateful for your help.

You're welcome. I've changed many capacitors in monitors, TV's, power supplies, motherboards, etc. Take your time.

Also, a good 'solder sucker' or solder wick is helpful, but not 100% necessary, especially in removing/installing new capacitors. I would just break the old capacitors off (or snip them at the lead if you can get to it) and then heat and remove the leads one at a time using needle nose pliers. Just easier that way, IMO.
 

AnonymouseUser

Diamond Member
May 14, 2003
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You can usually find a repair kit with all the parts you need to fix your monitor. Google the model + "repair kit" and see what you find.