Mazda 3 (2006):HELP! No engine power with auto trans mode

[Baumshell28]

As of yesterday, I am having to drive my 2006 Mazda 3 in manual transmission "mode". I normally ONLY drive in automatic. But...now, when in automatic, I get basically no power to the engine. I am already in 5th gear between 20-25 mph, I have less than "1" RPM, and the engine & muffler sputter when I push the gas. On a whim, I switched over to manual transmission and so far, it seems to be just fine. WTF?!?!
Has anyone else experienced this? Any advice for me?
Thanks in advance!

 

[JCH13]

As of yesterday, I am having to drive my 2006 Mazda 3 in manual transmission "mode". I normally ONLY drive in automatic. But...now, when in automatic, I get basically no power to the engine. I am already in 5th gear between 20-25 mph, I have less than "1" RPM, and the engine & muffler sputter when I push the gas. On a whim, I switched over to manual transmission and so far, it seems to be just fine. WTF?!?!
Has anyone else experienced this? Any advice for me?
Thanks in advance!

Sounds like you have some transmission controller and/or solenoid issues.

 

[Baumshell28]

BTW: I am a TOTAL GIRL when it comes to anything mechanical like this! I know it sounds stupid, but you may have to explain your thoughts, suggestions & ideas to me the same way you'd explain a difficult concept to a 5 year old. I'm sure it's aggravating, but I joined this forum because I really have no other place to start trying to figure this out. And, I'm dead broke, otherwise I'd just take it into a shop & let them do what they please, but I can't right now...thanks for understanding!

 

[JCH13]

Don't use 'girl' as a pejorative, you're not doing your gender any favors.

Your car has a computer, called an Automatic Transmission Controller (ATC), that uses solenoid valves (a type of valve that can be controlled electronically) to shift gears. It sounds as if normal automatic mode isn't working very well, so it's likely an issue aassociated with one of these two components, possibly even with the transmission itself. Automatic transmissions can build up sludge which clogs various fluid channels inside the transmission. It could also be the speed sensor that the ATC uses to decide what gear to put the car in.

Are there any warning lights lit up on the dash?

When was the last time you had the transmission serviced?

How many miles are on the car?

 

[Baumshell28]

JCH13, you are an absolute angel for having the patience to put up with me & help me! Thank you!

113376 miles

Check engine light (it is ON more than it's OFF, but there are days that it isn't lit up...?)

I've owned it almost 4 years...I've never had the transmission serviced

 

[JCH13]

No problem.

Your first step is to go somewhere like Autozone and have them read the codes from your car. Write them down and post them here.

The next step is to have the transmission flushed. Check your owner's manual (service interval section) to be sure, but I think your AT is supposed to be flushed every 60k miles. If it's never been done that could be a big part of your problem. This is a really common maintenance item that most garage can handle, even Jiffy Lube. Just make sure the shop does a real 'flush' and not just a 'fluid change' though, you need the high pressure flush to clean out all the gunk that has likely built up inside your transmission.

 

[NutBucket]

Could one conclude the issue is most likely with an ecu/module than the trans itself given the OP is able to shift it manually without issue?

 

[JCH13]

Could one conclude the issue is most likely with an ecu/module than the trans itself given the OP is able to shift it manually without issue?

I don't think so, despite initial appearances. Early 2000's Volvos have notoriously bad transmissions. Shifting them manually can avoid the problem, but the only way to solve the problem is a new transmission or a rebuild to fix a sticky solenoid. Some people limp them along for a while with frequent flushes and fluid changes. So it is possible.

Some people are reporting bad speed sensors, which would fit your logic (which I'm not saying is wrong at all), but I'd rather take care of the basic maintenance issues first before we go off on more complicated (and expensive) diagnoses. On another forum a very smart user spent a week trying to diagnose fuel pump circuitry when it turned out that a mouse nest had been clogging the intake... a very good reminder to start with the basics!