mATX 2011-3 Custom-loop WC Build Thread [Completed]

[exar333]

First-off, want to say 'thanks' to everyone (especially Aigo) for the helpful stickies here on building a WC setup. I have been perusing those along with a wealth of other information online for my first ground-up WC build. This will be my first custom loop so I didn't want to get too crazy, and I am looking forward to it. Didn't want too difficult, but didn't want a cake-walk either. Knowing the time and effort needed, I have decided to do a fully-parallel build with new parts so that I could take my time and 'do it right' without being without my main machine in the meantime.

The plan is to get all the parts over the next ~1.5 weeks and start the build before the end of October. My initial parts list is below, and I will be updating (as needed) with anything additional. I also plan to take a lot of pictures along the way and post how it is going, whether that be good and/or bad.

In the end, its all about the journey, right? Hoping this will be a lot of fun! The main reason I am posting this now is to get some feedback from those much more experienced than I with these WC builds. If you suggest going a different route, or if the setup seems unrealistic, don't hesitate to let me know. I had a budget for my new build and decided to grab the WC setup with 5820 6C/12T vs. just air-cooling the 8C/12T extreme. Wanted to do a WC build for YEARS, so this sounded more fun! Goal is good overclocking (not extreme) with low-moderate noise. Secondary is aesthetics, but I will try and make it look nice too...

Ordered Parts:
-Corsair Obsidian 350D w/ window (mATX)
-ASRock X99M 2011-3 MB (mATX)
-Corsair AX860 860w PSU
-Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (4x4GB) 2666mhz DDR4
-1x Swiftech MCP35X reservoir
-1x Swiftech MCP35X pump
-1x Alphacool UT60 2x120mm Rad
-1x Alphacool ST30 2x120mm Rad
-4m TruFlex tubing 5/8''ODx3/8''ID (black)
-12x Lok-Seal compression fittings - black (5/8-3/8)
-1x IandH Silver KillCoil
-2x Noiseblocker B12-2 120mm fans (for the front rad push)
-2x Corsair SP120 120mm fans (for front pull)
-2x Yate Loon 20mm 120mm fans (top rad push)-1x EK Supremecy EVO Nickel CPU block
-1x EK GTX 670 cooling block w/ backplate (nickel/clear) for GTX 970
-2x Bitspower 90-degree adapter (black)
-2x Bitspower 45-degree adapter (black)

Parts I already Have:
-1x Noctua NF-P14 140mm Case fan (for front intake)
-GTX 970 (need to remove shroud and attach EK block)
-256GB Samsung 840Pro
-120GB SSD
-1.5TB HDD for backup/intermediary storage between CPU and NAS

Parts I Need:
-Intel i7 5820k 6C/12T (grabbing at MC when I go to MN in 2 weeks :sneaky
Others ?????

Thoughts or feedback? Thanks in advance!

Edit: Loop is tentatively going to be Res->Pump->GPU->top Rad->CPU->front rad->Res

Bolded changes to build items. Removed the front HDD/SSD cages and put a thicker 2x120mm rad on front and needed a thinner rad + fan combo due to limited clearance between top of case and MB. Ended-up fitting great!

Update Got all tubing connected and did the initial fill. No leaks yet, but running loop with external power supply for 24 hours before trying to connect fan/MB PSU. So far so good!

11/07 Update Built and running great! Running a very 'raw' but stable 4.4ghz OC on the CPU and I got about another 50mhz out of the GPU as well. CPU tops-out at 60C and the GPU tops-out at 39C under full-load.

Will keep stress-testing and so forth this weekend and then will try for some additional headroom with more fine-tune changes.

Final pics (before I put the side-window case on):

 

[dougp]

Have fun fitting that in a 350D. Fitting a 240mm in the front can be a royal pain and require some modding, and then you have issues with a radiator and motherboard for the top.

 

[exar333]

Have fun fitting that in a 350D. Fitting a 240mm in the front can be a royal pain and require some modding, and then you have issues with a radiator and motherboard for the top.

Planning to put 240mm on top and 120mm on rear exhaust. I didn't want to lose the hdd cages, at least until I have some time to play around with where I could put the drives (5.25 bays, behind mb tray, ect).

It's not going to be easy, but using a smaller case is part of the challenge.

 

[dougp]

Hope you have the clearance then with your motherboard. Often a challenge to fit radiators in top mounts with Z series because of the capacitors and stuff.

 

[Grooveriding]

Looks like an awesome build :thumbsup:

I've always wanted something similar myself; a powerful watercooling setup in a small form factor.

Biggest problem you're going to have is managing the space well for cable management and tube runs. Your choice to go with compression fittings is a good one, I really prefer them and wouldn't want to do a setup without them.

Get a proper tube cutter if you don't have one. In those small quarters you're going to be doing relatively short runs and it's important and a big help to have good straight cuts on your tube.

https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/kwikcut-ss100-stainless-steel-tube-cutter-tool/

 

[exar333]

Looks like an awesome build :thumbsup:

I've always wanted something similar myself; a powerful watercooling setup in a small form factor.

Biggest problem you're going to have is managing the space well for cable management and tube runs. Your choice to go with compression fittings is a good one, I really prefer them and wouldn't want to do a setup without them.

Get a proper tube cutter if you don't have one. In those small quarters you're going to be doing relatively short runs and it's important and a big help to have good straight cuts on your tube.

https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/kwikcut-ss100-stainless-steel-tube-cutter-tool/

Yeah, cable management will definitely be a challenge. That's one reason I grabbed the new PSU, a modular unit was pretty much a necessity. Honestly, in the past, I have not had to be too precise with cabling but I will definitely need to be with this. My Goal is to get the loop setup and working first, and then focus on cabling each component one at a time. Will probably need to get a few one-off cables or extensions for components and/or fans as I get everything cabled.

Approaching this as more of a project build that will take some time.

Edit: Thanks for the SS cutter link. Will check it out.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

Yeah, cable management will definitely be a challenge. That's one reason I grabbed the new PSU, a modular unit was pretty much a necessity. Honestly, in the past, I have not had to be too precise with cabling but I will definitely need to be with this. My Goal is to get the loop setup and working first, and then focus on cabling each component one at a time. Will probably need to get a few one-off cables or extensions for components and/or fans as I get everything cabled.

Approaching this as more of a project build that will take some time.

Edit: Thanks for the SS cutter link. Will check it out.

I'll be more than casually interested in how you do this. I'm planning to build an X99 system next year. Folks will say "wait for Broadwell [or Skylake]" or any number of things, but it's not just about the money -- least of the problems. I want to see what other motherboards are released, new steppings of the cores or an evolution for DDR4 offerings.

Cooling the E processors is probably less of a problem than we may have anticipated, before enough news and "intel" became available. You could actually do it with an air-cooler, but I think this is a crossroads for me -- a point where I'd insist on water-cooling for myself. Nor would the AiO options be sufficient.

While I will leave my graphics card(s?) out of the mix for this, I'm interested in your project because I see this as an exercise in matching case and radiators.

And I want bigger radiators, even if I can cool an i7-5820K or 5930K with an NH-D15 or a Hydro H110 . . . .

 

[exar333]

I'll be more than casually interested in how you do this. I'm planning to build an X99 system next year. Folks will say "wait for Broadwell [or Skylake]" or any number of things, but it's not just about the money -- least of the problems. I want to see what other motherboards are released, new steppings of the cores or an evolution for DDR4 offerings.

Cooling the E processors is probably less of a problem than we may have anticipated, before enough news and "intel" became available. You could actually do it with an air-cooler, but I think this is a crossroads for me -- a point where I'd insist on water-cooling for myself. Nor would the AiO options be sufficient.

While I will leave my graphics card(s?) out of the mix for this, I'm interested in your project because I see this as an exercise in matching case and radiators.

And I want bigger radiators, even if I can cool an i7-5820K or 5930K with an NH-D15 or a Hydro H110 . . . .

Cool. My goal is to update as much as possible along the way. Regarding radiators, I would like to eventually place a 240mm rad in the front, but I want to get everything in and see how it 'fits' before I get too aggressive with fitting so much in the case. I have see some people with 360mm in front, after they removed the 5.25'' bays. This case has a LOT of options, both out-of-the-box and custom changes. Excited.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

Cool. My goal is to update as much as possible along the way. Regarding radiators, I would like to eventually place a 240mm rad in the front, but I want to get everything in and see how it 'fits' before I get too aggressive with fitting so much in the case. I have see some people with 360mm in front, after they removed the 5.25'' bays. This case has a LOT of options, both out-of-the-box and custom changes. Excited.

I guess after I pick my case, I'll want to have a drill and airplane shears on hand for pop-rivets . . . A person can't just pick any case to match with any water-cooling components and not expect to make some adjustments. Your standard-size single or double-120mm radiators are more likely to fit in the case as is. But get thicker rads or wider / longer rads -- well -- there it is.

 

[exar333]

I know these are a lot of pics, but here they are! Apologies for not doing any post-production on them, but I have gotten (admittedly) a little lazy on adjusting lighting when shooting as I adjust when loading to PS. Unfortunately, I will not have PS again until I finish this build.

[Update] - have assembled all the parts except the res/pump and tubing. Installing those tonight and will be leak-testing for the next few days before actually booting-up.

The GTX670 waterblock worked PERFECTLY for the non ACX EVGA 970. First time ever installing a waterblock and it went pretty well!

Overall, build feeling pretty solid so far. Anxious to start leak testing and getting it actually running this week!

 

[exar333]

More pics:

 

[exar333]

 

[exar333]

Last ones! More when I get tubes cut and the pump installed.

 

[aigomorla]

wow i learned something new..

670 GTX blocks will work on a reference 970 GTX.

 

[Cerb]

wow i learned something new..

670 GTX blocks will work on a reference 970 GTX.

The GTX 670 coolers are fitting onto GTX 670 PCBs, I'm pretty sure.

 

[exar333]

The GTX 670 coolers are fitting onto GTX 670 PCBs, I'm pretty sure.

Yeah!

It is one of the reasons I grabbed the non-ACX EVGA cards because it was rumored the 670 block would work, and it does. No changes or fab needed, which was nice. Plus, I grabbed it used (hadn't even been used, just package opened) for 1/2 price from ebay.

 

[exar333]

Not the greatest pic, but currently am leak testing. Filled most of interior with washcloths/hand towels to soak any potential drips and put coffee filters around/below each junction point to check for 'micro' leaks.

Shifted the case around on it's axis a bit to get the big air bubbles out, but will focus on getting the last bit of air out after 24 hours of no verified leaks.

So far so good!

 

[exar333]

As an aside, anyone have a good method for getting the last 1-2% of the air left in the loop? Any ideas greatly appreciated.

 

[aigomorla]

As an aside, anyone have a good method for getting the last 1-2% of the air left in the loop? Any ideas greatly appreciated.

just let it run live...

tiny bit of air wont hurt performance much, and it will eventually settle over time.

 

[exar333]

just let it run live...

tiny bit of air wont hurt performance much, and it will eventually settle over time.

Thanks Aigo.

Been running with the top of the reservoir open and worked a lot of the air out already. Shifted the box and ran a good hour or so in a couple positions and that is working well.

Adjusted back up to normal operation position and will let it run until tomorrow AM and then seal it up. Hoping to actually boot it up tomorrow!

 

[BonzaiDuck]

Thanks Aigo.

Been running with the top of the reservoir open and worked a lot of the air out already. Shifted the box and ran a good hour or so in a couple positions and that is working well.

Adjusted back up to normal operation position and will let it run until tomorrow AM and then seal it up. Hoping to actually boot it up tomorrow!

Goody-goody. . . . I've been "listening in" here. compiling a list of ideas for my "big 2015 build."

I have a question. Either exar or Aigo or anyone else encouraged to quick reply.

Why is it necessary to leak-test in the case? Is it not possible to position the parts in the case, cut and position the hoses and fittings to match the position of the processor/gpus when the electronics are installed, and then putting it together outside the case and testing it in a big dry vinyl wash tub?

All you'd have to do is requisition a spare 12V cable extension from another working computer and extend it another foot or two, or use the "green wire" trick to make a PSU manually switchable.

If you thought you wouldn't catch leaks unless they stain a piece of cloth, you could still do that . . . too . . .

Also, one might think that there could be various ways to simply install the cooling system onto the newly installed electronics and case as a single apparatus. I ask this because I have never done this sort of thing before, and am trying to plot the surest, simplest and easiest way to do it.

 

[aigomorla]

I tie bathroom toilet paper around all fittings, which have the potential to leak.
I also lay the floor and GPU cards with toilet paper incase water drops.

Why toilet paper?

Because it deforms when its in contact with water of any kind.
Its the easiest to tell if it has had contact with water in any way.

I do this for about 48 hours while running the system live while checking every 10 min for 1 hours.. then 30 min for another 2 hours, and then every couple of hours for the rest of the leak test.

If i notice a deformity in the toliet paper, i inspect the system to see where it was leaking, or if it was a water droplet which was outside the system that i missed wiping.

It is necessary to leak test inside the case, because of the torque which tubing can exert on the fittings.
It could be as you twisted a tubing, the torque unscrewed a fitting, and you no longer have a seal.

This can cause water to leak though the broken seal and drop on expensive parts.

Since the time is very short that Distilled water is non conductive, you want to catch all the leaks as fast as possible.

The faster you fix and catch a leak in a new system, the better chances you have that it wont short out an expensive part.

 

[exar333]

I tie bathroom toilet paper around all fittings, which have the potential to leak.
I also lay the floor and GPU cards with toilet paper incase water drops.

Why toilet paper?

Because it deforms when its in contact with water of any kind.
Its the easiest to tell if it has had contact with water in any way.

I do this for about 48 hours while running the system live while checking every 10 min for 1 hours.. then 30 min for another 2 hours, and then every couple of hours for the rest of the leak test.

If i notice a deformity in the toliet paper, i inspect the system to see where it was leaking, or if it was a water droplet which was outside the system that i missed wiping.

It is necessary to leak test inside the case, because of the torque which tubing can exert on the fittings.
It could be as you twisted a tubing, the torque unscrewed a fitting, and you no longer have a seal.

This can cause water to leak though the broken seal and drop on expensive parts.

Since the time is very short that Distilled water is non conductive, you want to catch all the leaks as fast as possible.

The faster you fix and catch a leak in a new system, the better chances you have that it wont short out an expensive part.

Great advice.

I decided to do a full 24 hours with no power on, except the externally-powered pump going. Being my first WC build, I want to be a little extra cautious.

Been checking every 30min or so and still looking good. Need to add SSDs and screw-in the pump tomorrow, but positioned everything so its like it will be when I am running 24/7.

Bubbles are pretty much gone so I closed-up the reservoir. Running nice and quiet now.

 

[exar333]

Goody-goody. . . . I've been "listening in" here. compiling a list of ideas for my "big 2015 build."

I have a question. Either exar or Aigo or anyone else encouraged to quick reply.

Why is it necessary to leak-test in the case? Is it not possible to position the parts in the case, cut and position the hoses and fittings to match the position of the processor/gpus when the electronics are installed, and then putting it together outside the case and testing it in a big dry vinyl wash tub?

All you'd have to do is requisition a spare 12V cable extension from another working computer and extend it another foot or two, or use the "green wire" trick to make a PSU manually switchable.

If you thought you wouldn't catch leaks unless they stain a piece of cloth, you could still do that . . . too . . .

Also, one might think that there could be various ways to simply install the cooling system onto the newly installed electronics and case as a single apparatus. I ask this because I have never done this sort of thing before, and am trying to plot the surest, simplest and easiest way to do it.

BonzaiDuck - what build are you thinking?

 

[BonzaiDuck]

BonzaiDuck - what build are you thinking?

The build I'M planning to do. I'm still considering cases and radiators. I'm pretty sure which reservoir I'll get -- with twin D5's.

Trying to put it all together outside the case seems only good for testing if you can then take the entire assembly and install the main components in the case without removing the hoses. Double radiators with the extra reservoir component could make that approach awkward without an extra assistant's hands.

Aigo is right about the toilet paper. it will deform noticeably with any water stain, even as it dries out.

And to be honest, if you configure a PSU to turn on the pumps and fans from the rocker switch (the "green-wire" trick or whatever it's called), there shouldn't be much risk for testing the cooling system within an otherwise empty case.

And frankly, now that I think of it, I'd rather depend on the toilet paper than inspection of a vinyl tub for evidence of leaks.

UPDATE/AFTERTHOUGHT: YOu ask "What build am I thinking?" To be more specific, an X99 system with an i7-5820K. It now looks like the low-end E processor is the best overclocking candidate. If you want triple SLI, you would choose the X or 5930K processors. I honestly don't see the need for duo-SLI. MAY-be there's a game that would severely tax my GTX 780 -- can't rightly say. But I DO have a racing simulator -- fairly fresh among available games -- and the single GTX 780 seems way too much for it. Haven't had any trouble with TitanFall, either.

And I play these games on the single GTX 780 while it's feeding Live TV Media Center across the room to my HT AVR and HDTV.

Of course, I'm happy with 1920x1080 resolution. I can't see the fascination with 4K. Or I can't fully understand it. at HD resolution, how are your eyes going to distinguish the difference with 4K? Somebody can enlighten me.