- Jun 8, 2000
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I spent the last 2 hours looking at Google-archived rec.autos.makers.saturn newsgroup threads, but only found one relevant post, and nobody even answered the guy's question.
I recently bought a shiny plastic 94 Saturn SL2 that's in fairly decent shape (202,000 miles, but runs excellent, very little oil usage, mostly excellent maintenance, but needed both outside mirrors and new drivers power window regulator). My friend at work didn't want it anymore because the clutch "went out" (he's not particularly mechanically inclined). I test drove it and found that the clutch was still engaging strongly, but that it was only disengaging partially when the pedal was pressed. Knowing this thing has a hydraulic clutch, I diagnosed it in my head as clutch hydraulics (read cheap and easy) and offered him $250 on the spot, which he accepted.
After I took possession of my fly new ride, I found no external leaks, that the fluid reservoir was still half full, and that I could ?pump up? the clutch for a slightly more thorough disengagement (still not completely disengaged though). OK, diagnosis: master cylinder.
I go to Napa and buy a Haynes manual, an air filter, and an oil filter. While I?m there, I inquire about the master cylinder and find out that there are no rebuild kits available and that they can?t be bled properly anyway (this guy must have had a Saturn before), so I bought a complete new sealed ?hydraulic actuator assembly,? pre-filled and per-bled, at the Saturn dealership.
Well, as for my $250 plastic street buoy, I guess I got what I paid for, because the new hydraulic system did not solve the problem. The clutch still won?t disengage completely, and the car remains, for all intents and purposes, unusable. Barring a defective hydraulic unit, I?m guessing there must problem with the release fork or the pressure plate. Now it?s looking like I?ll need to go in and replace stuff.
OK, I can take it like a man, I didn?t get as great a deal as I thought, but I?ve done two clutches before in my friends garages with their cars. Time to bust open the Haynes. First thing it says: Remove Engine, (see chapter 2B). What!?!
I?ve never needed to remove an engine to get to the clutch. I?m not going to pull this engine myself. I don?t have an engine hoist, and I don?t even have a garage with lights or electricity. The garage I do have I rent from my grandmother who lives 10 miles away. If I need to have this job done by a garage/dealership, I?ll be a bit upset. I?m trying to buy a house soon and I don?t want to give my money away if I don?t need to.
My question is, can I just do this job the way I?m used to, by lifting the car, removing the driveshafts, and easing the transmission to the side and then down to the ground? If not, why? WTF? Is this GM?s idea of a joke? :| I'm not laughing. We all know that Haynes can be a bit inaccurate. Someone please, oh please, tell me how this is supposed to be done.
Thanks a ton.
I recently bought a shiny plastic 94 Saturn SL2 that's in fairly decent shape (202,000 miles, but runs excellent, very little oil usage, mostly excellent maintenance, but needed both outside mirrors and new drivers power window regulator). My friend at work didn't want it anymore because the clutch "went out" (he's not particularly mechanically inclined). I test drove it and found that the clutch was still engaging strongly, but that it was only disengaging partially when the pedal was pressed. Knowing this thing has a hydraulic clutch, I diagnosed it in my head as clutch hydraulics (read cheap and easy) and offered him $250 on the spot, which he accepted.
After I took possession of my fly new ride, I found no external leaks, that the fluid reservoir was still half full, and that I could ?pump up? the clutch for a slightly more thorough disengagement (still not completely disengaged though). OK, diagnosis: master cylinder.
I go to Napa and buy a Haynes manual, an air filter, and an oil filter. While I?m there, I inquire about the master cylinder and find out that there are no rebuild kits available and that they can?t be bled properly anyway (this guy must have had a Saturn before), so I bought a complete new sealed ?hydraulic actuator assembly,? pre-filled and per-bled, at the Saturn dealership.
Well, as for my $250 plastic street buoy, I guess I got what I paid for, because the new hydraulic system did not solve the problem. The clutch still won?t disengage completely, and the car remains, for all intents and purposes, unusable. Barring a defective hydraulic unit, I?m guessing there must problem with the release fork or the pressure plate. Now it?s looking like I?ll need to go in and replace stuff.
OK, I can take it like a man, I didn?t get as great a deal as I thought, but I?ve done two clutches before in my friends garages with their cars. Time to bust open the Haynes. First thing it says: Remove Engine, (see chapter 2B). What!?!
My question is, can I just do this job the way I?m used to, by lifting the car, removing the driveshafts, and easing the transmission to the side and then down to the ground? If not, why? WTF? Is this GM?s idea of a joke? :| I'm not laughing. We all know that Haynes can be a bit inaccurate. Someone please, oh please, tell me how this is supposed to be done.
Thanks a ton.
