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Making a family budget PC as quiet as possible

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@C2bcool, definitely looks like an interesting option! The Silent version is about €65,- but the availability seems to be pretty bad atm (10+ days delivery times or 'preorder'). There was only one review I could find (http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cases/2015/02/20/corsair-carbide-series-100r-silent-edition/4) and it basically says the case is good but the cooling is bad. For my setup this won't be a problem right? Unfortunately, it's unclear how the 100R Silent's noise compares to the FD Define Mini's. That would make the decision a lot easier...

@BonzaiDuck, don't think that's really an option worth considering in our situation, too much fuss whilst the benefits seems pretty mediocre to me. Would be an interesting project if you'd have the time for it though!

@bradly1101, don't the Corsair cases already have rubber fan mounts? Or can you use the fan mounts you mentioned in combination with the case's rubber fan mounts? If so, they seem like a buy since they're available for only €4,-. Thanks for mentioning them! IIRC, the 200R has two dust filters, one PSU intake and one in the front intake. The other vents are all completely open though, which is also one of the reasons why I've been strongly considering a different case lately. Finally, using the BIOS to keep the intake fans at a higher speed to create a positive pressure sounds like a good idea as well, thanks 🙂
No the Corsair cases don't have rubber fan mounts. There wasn't enough room in front for them, but I used it on the rear which doesn't have a door covering the fan like the front does with sound deadening. With two fans there they can run slow enough not to need rubber mounts.
 
I really REALLY like the FD Mini... I have 2... One of which is my HTPC case. It sets within 8 feet of me with an i3 and 3 HDDs. The included fan controller allows me to set the fans at a nominal speed and forget about them.

I liked the case so much, I swapped my desktop out of a CoolerMaster case into one... With no regrets.

Ditto. I love the Fractal Design Define Mini. That said, it's a large microATX case, so there's not a huge space-savings over a typical ATX case. The Define R4 and R5 are a bit more refined designs, so if case size isn't a big consideration, they may be the better choice.

I think the OP is making too big a deal of all this. It's trivial these days to put together a completely silent system (or one that is effectively silent from more than a foot or two away). True even of a gaming system, which this is not.

My criteria, roughly in order, would be:

  1. Efficient PSU that isn't oversized. Could be fanless, but doesn't need to be. An efficient PSU of the proper size will spin its fans slowly and be effectively silent. Reviews of PSUs that pay attention to noise are good to reference.

  2. Onboard GPU. One set of unnecessary fans eliminated.

  3. Good, quiet case fans that can easily be speed-controlled down to under 700 RPM.

  4. Fan controller for _all_ case fans. I'll take onboard software control of case fans over old-fashioned manual controls any day. It's well worth finding a motherboard that can do this, but they're pretty common these days.

  5. Good CPU cooler and fan. Even if not overclocking, they can go a long way toward quieting a build. You don't need the most expensive cooler available - the mid-priced ones are excellent value.

  6. SSD for the majority of OS, programs and data storage. Size it appropriately.

  7. HDD only if you need bulk multimedia storage or have unusual data storage requirements. If you do, consider using 2.5" drives for quietest operation.

  8. Good case, with internal sound damping. Perhaps the least important item. After taking care of all of the above, the system will already be silent or very close to it.
 
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I built a desktop for a friend last year. I can't hear it unless I am within 2 inches:

Zalman ZM-T2
Gigabyte GA-H81M-HD3
Antec VP-450
Intel Core i3-4130
Asus DVD Burner
Kingston 2x4 DDR3 1600
Kingston V300 SSD

Stock Intel fan and no additional fans. At least 99% of the time you can't tell it's running. Order total was $436.42 before shipping.
 
Ditto. I love the Fractal Design Define Mini. That said, it's a large microATX case, so there's not a huge space-savings over a typical ATX case. The Define R4 and R5 are a bit more refined designs, so if case size isn't a big consideration, they may be the better choice.

I think the OP is making too big a deal of all this. It's trivial these days to put together a completely silent system (or one that is effectively silent from more than a foot or two away). True even of a gaming system, which this is not.

My criteria, roughly in order, would be:

  1. Efficient PSU that isn't oversized. Could be fanless, but doesn't need to be. An efficient PSU of the proper size will spin its fans slowly and be effectively silent. Reviews of PSUs that pay attention to noise are good to reference.
  2. Onboard GPU. One set of unnecessary fans eliminated.
  3. Good, quiet case fans that can easily be speed-controlled down to under 700 RPM.
  4. Fan controller for _all_ case fans. I'll take onboard software control of case fans over old-fashioned manual controls any day. It's well worth finding a motherboard that can do this, but they're pretty common these days.
  5. Good CPU cooler and fan. Even if not overclocking, they can go a long way toward quieting a build. You don't need the most expensive cooler available - the mid-priced ones are excellent value.
  6. SSD for the majority of OS, programs and data storage. Size it appropriately.
  7. HDD only if you need bulk multimedia storage or have unusual data storage requirements. If you do, consider using 2.5" drives for quietest operation.
  8. Good case, with internal sound damping. Perhaps the least important item. After taking care of all of the above, the system will already be silent or very close to it.

It's quoting a movie line from "The Right Stuff" to say "This needs to be said over and over and over again."

ALWAYS use rubber fan mounts. If possible, get fans with the rubber-padded corners around the mounting holes. ALWAYS install HDDs with rubber vibration isolators, or find a way to use a DIY solution. ALWAYS do yourself the favor (at least) of thoroughly investigating thermal fan control exclusively from the motherboard.

Follow Carson's prescriptions (and mine) and you don't have to pick limp fans for everything as long as you get good quality fans. So you can get airflow and still have a silent computer. High quality fans of the "beefier" sort will still be just as quiet across the lower 2/3 of their RPM range.
 
@Carson Dyle, with the current build I'm able to meet all of these criteria, so that's good. However, you rate the case as the least important item, if it plays such a little role in creating a silent build, why would it be worth it to invest into a more expensive case like the Define Mini instead of getting a much cheaper case like a FD Core 1000 or CM Silencio 352 only taking into consideration noise-levels?

@BonzaiDuck, got it. Thanks 🙂

Unfortunately the Corsair 100R won't be available for the coming months. So right now it looks like I'll follow your recommendations and choose the Fractal Design Define Mini. Unless my dad decides he doesn't want to spend that much on the FD, then I'll probs go for the CM Silencio 352.

EDIT: If anyone was wondering, the reason we haven't ordered the parts yet is because my dad is on a holiday atm.
 
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@Carson Dyle, with the current build I'm able to meet all of these criteria, so that's good. However, you rate the case as the least important item, if it plays such a little role in creating a silent build, why would it be worth it to invest into a more expensive case like the Define Mini instead of getting a much cheaper case like a FD Core 1000 or CM Silencio 352 only taking into consideration noise-levels?

It may not be worth it. However, there are many other differences between the Core 1000 and the Define Mini apart from the sound damping. Cable routing, removable drive cage, front door. There doesn't appear to be nearly as large a price difference between the Silencio 352 and the Define Mini.
 
It may not be worth it. However, there are many other differences between the Core 1000 and the Define Mini apart from the sound damping. Cable routing, removable drive cage, front door. There doesn't appear to be nearly as large a price difference between the Silencio 352 and the Define Mini.

The prices for the Core 1000, Silencio 352 and Define Mini are, respectively, €34, €48 and €80. As the price differences between the Mini and Silencio are pretty significant, the Silencio looks a lot better to me.
 
The prices for the Core 1000, Silencio 352 and Define Mini are, respectively, €34, €48 and €80. As the price differences between the Mini and Silencio are pretty significant, the Silencio looks a lot better to me.

The Core1000 is a decent budget case (I built my inlaws PC in one last year) but it does not have sound damping foam, at that price level the 352 is probably your answer.
 
@Carson Dyle, with the current build I'm able to meet all of these criteria, so that's good. However, you rate the case as the least important item, if it plays such a little role in creating a silent build, why would it be worth it to invest into a more expensive case like the Define Mini instead of getting a much cheaper case like a FD Core 1000 or CM Silencio 352 only taking into consideration noise-levels?

@BonzaiDuck, got it. Thanks 🙂

Unfortunately the Corsair 100R won't be available for the coming months. So right now it looks like I'll follow your recommendations and choose the Fractal Design Define Mini. Unless my dad decides he doesn't want to spend that much on the FD, then I'll probs go for the CM Silencio 352.

EDIT: If anyone was wondering, the reason we haven't ordered the parts yet is because my dad is on a holiday atm.

I could almost feel a bit ashamed. My elderly Moms is pushing 90 years old, but she's had a computer since 1992. I've got all the parts needed to upgrade her to gen 3 i3 or i5 -- either one. But you can't embrace change so easily at 90.

Her E6700 (Wolfdale), Giga mATX, 4GB RAM, Elm Crest SSD, excessively-spec'd Seasonic PSU, HD monitor etc. is as much as she wants. She prefers 800x768 resolution on an HD monitor, and I finally got her to compromise with a slightly higher resolution. "Get better glasses, Mom!" "No! No! I want it THIS way!"

Her computer case?! It's a modded full-tower 1998 Gateway ATX tower!!

There has to be a rather broad range of cases, case-sizes, quality and price for a case selection. However, "case technology" doesn't amount to a lot, so case quality might not be much of a factor -- or even so much of a "range." You can live with 6-32 screws for HDDs, but they're better if the drives are rubber-isolated. Need ventilation? Get out your drill and dremel!

I'm not so sure that silent-running depends so much on the case. Cooling is a bigger factor. Anyway, I've made enough observations about my own cases, or what can be possible.

The OP seems to be a very thoughtful, deliberate person.
 
Her E6700 (Wolfdale), Giga mATX, 4GB RAM, Elm Crest SSD, excessively-spec'd Seasonic PSU, HD monitor etc. is as much as she wants. She prefers 800x768 resolution on an HD monitor, and I finally got her to compromise with a slightly higher resolution. "Get better glasses, Mom!" "No! No! I want it THIS way!"

Sounds familiair 😛

I'd like to thank everyone who has contributed for their advice!
I put a summary of this thread in the OP so it might be useful to others as well.

Final build:
CPU: i3-4160
CPU Cooler: Gelid Tranquillo Rev.3
MB: ASRock B85M Pro4
Case: Cooler Master Silencio 352
PSU: Seasonic G-360
RAM: Crucial Ballistix 8GB
SSD : Crucial BX100 250GB
 
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Have you considered Fractal Design Define R4 (or new R5) case. It's really top quality product and really well designed one. Also has sound and dust isolation. It's a bit more expensive than Cooler Master but I'm sure it's worth it.
 
How about a NUC?

d54250wyk1-i5-intel-haswell-nuc-computer_pic1.jpg
 
I watch a lot of video from HULU and Youtube at home and am using an E4330 i3 CPU. The case is a CM 130 elite. I used the retail cooler and then put a CX series power supply upside down to pull air up and out of the CASE from right on top of the CPU area. Couldn't fit much of a cooler in my case anyway. Been running for a year.

I chose to use a DVD player and a Hard drive with no SSD. In reality once the video from the website starts playing I cant hear anything.

The hardest thing is routing all the cables, Main power 20+4, USB3 thick cable, USB2 CABLE, SATA 1-DVD + 1-HD, P4 power cable, Fan Cables. I used the IGP on the CPU.

I decided I do not like the CM 130 elite because of how it mounts the drives on the side or the bottom. You have to put the drives too far apart requiring an extra power cable. Once I figured how to wire it up, I really wished the case was on extra inch wider for cable routing.

I noticed that ASUS has an ITX motherboard with an M.2 slot on the bottom and a wireless card slot on top. That might be nice no power cable and no SATA cable. You pay a little extra but that everything has its price/utility factor.
 
I don't have pictures yet, and if I take any, they won't be very blingy.

My younger Bro needs a newer computer, and I want to retrieve my 780i motherboard for "certain purposes" and especially -- the CM Stacker midtower black aluminum case which, I told him from the git-go, is "only a loaner."

I'd suspect many of us who maintain several machines, who don't depend on Geek-Squad or OEM service contracts, who build all our own systems -- we always have an old spare case handy for testing.

So I have this old CoolerMaster Centurion midtower, and for logistical reasons, I'd best build Bro's system while he continues to use his old one. We decided it best to just start from scratch, after expunging some malware from his software installs -- as we continue to watch it closely.

So . . . the Centurion:

http://content.hwigroup.net/images/products/xl/000964/cooler_master_centurion_532.jpg

CM had generations of these "Centurions," and the link is the closest to what I have. It is obvious my model is older.

I think the case-makers have to straddle Past, Present and Future. To paraphrase the bandidos of "Treasure of the Sierra Madre:" "We don' need no stinkeen RAID5 arrays! Whadda we need stinkeen arrays for?!"

Your typical case provides far more mounting points and capacity for multiple hard disks than we'll ever use now. What do I need? "I need two stinkeen SSDs and one HDD." I can fit the two SSDs in a 2.5 to 3.5" bracket accommodating both. A single HDD will fit in the cage which held the floppy, in the slot below the one with the 3.5" front-panel opening.

The Centurion provides all the USB2 ports and other connections; I can add a two-port 3.5" front-panel USB3 in the old floppy-drive slot. Nobody uses floppy drives anymore, but if we did, there are several ad-hoc ways to connect one.

This is going to be an Ivy Bridge i5-3570K system with a Z77 motherboard, and we don't plan on any overclocking. Or -- there will be some mild overclocking. The CPU cooler is a spare 212-EVO from my parts locker.

The main thing the case needs is better intake ventilation to help force air through the cooler. But the Centurion only provides a spot for a 120x25mm fan at bottom-front. The side-panel has a vent for something like an 80mm fan, which is laughable. To make it perfectly clear -- I'm just not going to make a drill-press project to install a top-panel 140mm or a side-panel 200mm fan. This is going to be a "modless mod."

Do I NEED all the 5.25" drive bays?! NOPE! But! I "need" something to double the intake of a rather limp Cougar Vortex 120mm fan at bottom front. I can fit an Akasa Viper 140mm fan in the unused drive bays. Of course, those bays are covered with solid aluminum pop-outs. So I started thinking about "replacements." I have a whole collection of CM Stacker and HAF 922 5.25" vented (vented!) front-panel pop-outs, and I figured they might just "pop in" to the Centurion.

Not quite. But I can flip them inside-out, and glue them in place with Pit-Crew Automotive Adhesive, which dries to a rubbery translucence.

Am I going to tap threaded holes and brackets into the drive-bays to secure the fan? I guess not. I jammed some vinyl-foam packing material between the top of the fan and the bottom of the optical drive, and filled the gaps on the remaining three sides with panels of 1/4"-thick foam art-board -- all an "interference fit." Maybe -- the foam will dry out or shrink over time. So I apply a few more dabs of Pit-Crew.

Hey! Nobody goin' to see it! With a fan-grille on the interior side of the Akasa Viper, it will be safe to stuff the extra unused cabling into the remaining space. And it will still add something to the airflow.
 
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