Looking for sub-woofer recommendations.

[deadken]

First off, the basics:
I'm a 46 Y.O. guy. I don't need or want to impress anyone who isn't sitting inside my car.
I do value trunk space.
This is a hobby car. Not typically a Daily Driver (unless my DD is out of commission for some reason).

Ok, that being said, I own a 1988 VW Jetta. Plain Jane 4 door, 8V 1.8l car. But, the PO (a friend of mine) lowered it (H&R spring kit), new shocks / struts, replaced the headlights and grill (and radiator support) and with any luck I'll be getting a GLI trunk in a month or two.

So, I replaced the head unit with a Sony and put some 6 1/2" speakers on the rear deck. It sounded better, but wasn't enough. So, I bought the VW Door mounts and installed a pair of 5 3/4" Infiniti Kappas in the doors with an Alpine 200W Amplifier (50x4 @ 4ohms). Well, since the Infinity speakers are 2Ohms, I bought a pair of 6.5" Infinity Kappas for the rear speakers (and used the others ones in my daughters Stratus). Finally the car sounded good. But... Not really good enough. I feel that I'm missing some bottom end. So, I'm looking for a Sub-woofer. Unfortunately, I don't know too much about them and it isn't very easy to learn (too many fanbois on the internet).

So, I stopped off at a few stereo shops and most seem to want around $350 for a 10" in a small enclosure with an amplifier. So, I looked around on line to see comparable prices, but I don't know that I really want to put everything together. So, I'm looking for a 'unit'. I've read too many bad things about the Infinity Basslink to want one of those. The Bazooka tubes also seem to be of a low quality (short lifespan). Right now, I'm considering a Kicker in a small enclosure:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...pf_rd_i=507846

It's 'only' a 10" and it's 'only' a 100W. It's also probably meant to be mounted inside a pick up cab instead of a car trunk. So, I'm wondering if it'll be enough. For what it is worth, I ran a set of sub-woofer audio input cables already. But, I probably would need to run another (or more realistically a better) power cable. I think that I'd be able to get away with my current cable since that Kicker only uses a 7.5Amp fuse.

The other one I was looking at is:
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_777B8PT/Sound-Ordnance-B-8PT.html
I figure that would likely fit under the passenger seat of my car. It'd 'only' be an 8", but it'd be inside the car and have 120W.

I'm sorry about the long post. I tried to be realistic on details. I fear that I'll be getting a ton of different opinions when I'm just trying to limit my choices. But, here I go anyway. Thank you in advance for any helpful replies.

BTW: For anyone who cares, here is what my Jetta looks like.
http://s6.photobucket.com/user/deadkenr/media/1988Jetta036.jpg.html?sort=3&o=31
Feel free to scroll around and see my 1972 Volvo 1800ES which is the main reason my Jetta doesn't get a lot of money spent on her...

EDIT: First off, I have an Alpine 300W amplifier. That's just what happens when you are 46 and go from memory:
http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-MRP-F3...1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1365286171&sr=1-1

Ok, just to make things a little more complicated. I just paid my Mortgage online. While I was at my banks website I remembered that I have a bunch of 'reward points'. I just took a look and found out that I can buy a $100 Best Buy Gift card for 10k points. Since I have 18k, I could buy a $100 for 10k and still have enough left over to buy a $50 for 6k points. Well, sure enough, I can get a Kicker 10" sub in enclosure for $142 at best buy:
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Kicker+...sure/9894295.p?id=1218190975541&skuId=9894295
Then I could buy a Alpine 500W Mono Amplifier:
http://www.amazon.com/MRP-M500-Alpi...5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1365286229&sr=1-5
If I went that route, I'd definitely have to increase my wiring and maybe even get a Capacitor. But, it'd be relatively cheep!

 

[JulesMaximus]

Nice looking car. :thumbsup:

I'd probably go for the Sound Ordnance 8" to save space. I'm looking at upgrading the factory system in my Camry Hybrid to an all Alpine setup including a 5 channel amp and 8" sub. Haven't done it yet because the spousal unit will hate me for spending the money. Going to save up some pennies so I can pull this off though because the stock setup is absolute shit.

 

[crabbyman]

Never heard of that brand.

I would get a thin 10" sub and build your own box. If you are into project a speaker box is easy.

I have a 10" Pioneer thin sub and I think it is plenty powerful enough for me. It sounds good to me. The one I have is able to be put into a small box 0.6^3 ft box.

I have a spare one I could sell but I am afraid of the shipping costs.

http://www.techronics.com/caraudio_...closure.html?gclid=CPTFsrqBt7YCFe5AMgodKWsA4g

http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TSSW25...cmu_pg__header

 

[HeXen]

Sound Ordnance is Crutchfield's brand, rather generic really. I wouldn't get their underseat subs, pretty bad really and you will experience distortion if you crank it much. I'd go to Sonixelectronx as they are cheaper. Build your own box to sub's specs, you could custom to a spare tire well which would leave you with the same trunk space, just out of a spare tire.

You can get a "slim" sub which would save a lot of space. Personally i would rather replace the rear speakers with 6.5"s subs than use any of those crappy underseat subs, you can't even call either one of them "subs" by any real definition.

Just remember, it's your box that will make or break any sub. It's all in the box and setup, not which sub

 

[Kaido]

In all seriousness, an Autotuba:

http://www.billfitzmaurice.com/autotuba.html

You have to build it yourself and while it's not the largest sub enclosure on the block, it's not the smallest either (14x15x32"). The driver is like $30 and you can power it with a cheapo amp and get great sound from it.

 

[phucheneh]

If you're trying to make the thing sound good, just get a half-decent 12" and a sealed box. Ported boxes are can be fairly difficult...you need to zero in on a lot of factors to find the proper volume and tuning frequency for the port. And some subs just don't do that well in a ported box.

Sealed is a lot more forgiving. And a 12" subwoofer is a good sweet spot for bang/buck. You'll get better low-end extension than with a 10", pay very little difference in price (assuming subs with very similar or possibly just identical motors), and have more output because of the greater cone area.

You don't have to USE that output. But it's there and it's pretty much free. Ignore anyone that says you need to use 10's to get 'tight bass' or some bullshit.

You should be able to do a decent sub and 300-500w of power for a couple hundred bucks if you shop wisely. And your stereo will sound better than some dude with a grand or two worth of JL equipment...if you did your install right. I'd all about setup and attention to detail...and competent, affordable parts. That's all they really need to be...it's not that pricey to build decent-sounding cars speakers. But the install works best with a little bit of thought and effort.

 

[Zivic]

in both my cars, I put a 10" JL W3 in a sealed box.
one paired with PG amp and speakers... the other with alpine amp and rainbow speakers.

maybe I am that "dude with a grand or two worth of JL equipment" that phucheneh is referrencing, but for ~200 bucks I think it is a decent sub. I had an alpine type X in my Z for a while, but that was insane. swapped it out for the JL and I am happy with it.

 

[HeXen]

I got a W6v3 :awe:
Not using it in my new car though cause i want the space, so i may go the very unconventional route of using my Tactile Transducers attached to the seats instead. I have the Clark Synthesis ones and using them just to augment an 8" or even the mid bass from the door's does work out very well when tuned right.

As you can see, i'm JL fanboy all the way

In all seriousness, an Autotuba:

http://www.billfitzmaurice.com/autotuba.html

You have to build it yourself and while it's not the largest sub enclosure on the block, it's not the smallest either (14x15x32"). The driver is like $30 and you can power it with a cheapo amp and get great sound from it.

I think that's the route Bose chose on their newer home theater systems, but with very small drivers.
I maybe wrong but i'm pretty sure those are just for SPL, what most people want is SQ

 

[deadken]

In all seriousness, an Autotuba:

http://www.billfitzmaurice.com/autotuba.html
...

Sorry, that is just too big for my Jetta. As I said, I care about room in my trunk.

So, I have to ask:

Is there anything wrong with the Best Buy Kicker sub in the case I linked to in the OP? I think that the 500W Alpine amp is a bit of overkill, but as I said, with that subwoofer working out to almost free (redeeming 'thank you' points), it'd leave me a bunch more cash to spend on the amp and another installation kit. Of course, I could always just buy a 200-300W amp.

BTW: I read with interest what Phucheneh said about the ported sub-woofers. But, I figure that since this sub and enclosure were put together by the guys who make the sub, they've probably done the research.

 

[Plugers]

The Alpine Type R 8"s and 10"s get good reviews and can be found at decent prices. If you're just looking to fill out the low end, most any name brand sub in a sealed box will probably work for you.

REs can be had pretty inexpensively and sound good also.

 

[Kaido]

Sorry, that is just too big for my Jetta. As I said, I care about room in my trunk.

Yeah, figured it might be too big. I'm fortunate that my current car has a deep truck, and the Autotuba is smaller than a lot of off-the-shelf ones, but depending on the car's trunk design, it may be too big.

 

[96Firebird]

I am confused by your original post, what speakers and amp do you have right now?

I'm not big on buying sub/box combos, but to each their own. Honestly, I'd save the mortgage points for something else, as BB is expensive when it comes to car audio. Sonic Electronix has the same sub/box combo for $100 shipped: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_21948_Kicker-TC104-10TC104.html

For what it's worth, the Comp is Kicker's lowest end sub. I'd look at either higher model Kickers or other brands, such as Image Dynamics or RE Audio. They make decent budget subs.

I'd also suggest building your own box. It isn't hard, and 3/4" MDF is available everywhere and fairly cheap. Plus, this way you can design to specific dimensions that will fit your trunk better.

What is your budget, for all things needed (box, sub, amp, wiring)?

 

[Vdubchaos]

Check out Kenwood products. They probably have the best bang for the buck and usually have quality product.

Personally I love the sound/deepness of the 12" sub. You can probably get a 12" sub for 50-70 bucks. 400-500RMS watt Amp will run you $100-120 and you can pick up a decent sealed box for $20-40 bucks.

Remember, even though it might be an overkill you can ALWAYS keep the gain down/keep the amp cool etc.

Nice Jetta BTW

 

[marincounty]

My buddy used to compete in the car stereo circuit with his VW Jetta. He had 11 Zapco amps and a bunch of MB Quart speakers and 4-12" JL woofers in a bandpass box. Interior was all done in black leather. Sounded sweet.
I would look at Parts express or madisound for woofers, and build my own sealed box.
Sealed is easier and more forgiving to build, you can be off by quite a bit in size and it will still sound pretty good. You don't need the increased efficiency of a ported or bandpass box in a car. Power is cheap nowadays.

 

[HeXen]

Ports are way easy to build, simple math that you can do using any Sub box caculator for free online. Tune it to 32-35hz, never more than 40 or less than 30, use Slot port, provide enough width for velocity, build to subs specs or test using WINISD or similar to compare different sizes and presto, you have a box with twice the output yet accurate enough to dispel the noticeable differences.
Most brands usually show you the dimensions for their box that they recommend for best all around, so you don't technically have to do anything unless you just want to get the most out of it possible for which WINISD is recommended for testing.

So when space is of concern, use slim subs if your gonna go sealed. Further down the recommendation line is to make sure to buy a sub that is specifically tailored to small, sealed boxes...not the "ported or sealed" crap, cause those specs are designed to work in either, which is basically just doing a "tit for tat" sacrifices.
I recommend a Kicker Solo classic...the round solobarics. Designed for .88 ft3 sealed for 12". You wont find too many other subs today for such small sealed chambers cause the Sheeple want a mix of everything and they want it cheap.
Dayton audio makes a thin sub that is pretty cheap, their stuff is usually decent, do a couple of 8" inchers rather than one 12"

 

[Plugers]

Arc audio 500 x 1 @ 1 ohm $100 shipped
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...57-jbl-ms8-killer-deal-arc-mini-mono-amp.html

Alpine SWS-12D2 $97 shipped
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_45530_Alpine-SWS-12D2.html

 

[Plugers]

Ports are way easy to build, simple math that you can do using any Sub box caculator for free online. Tune it to 32-35hz, never more than 40 or less than 30, use Slot port, provide enough width for velocity, build to subs specs or test using WINISD or similar to compare different sizes and presto, you have a box with twice the output yet accurate enough to dispel the noticeable differences.
Most brands usually show you the dimensions for their box that they recommend for best all around, so you don't technically have to do anything unless you just want to get the most out of it possible for which WINISD is recommended for testing.

So when space is of concern, use slim subs if your gonna go sealed. Further down the recommendation line is to make sure to buy a sub that is specifically tailored to small, sealed boxes...not the "ported or sealed" crap, cause those specs are designed to work in either, which is basically just doing a "tit for tat" sacrifices.
I recommend a Kicker Solo classic...the round solobarics. Designed for .88 ft3 sealed for 12". You wont find too many other subs today for such small sealed chambers cause the Sheeple want a mix of everything and they want it cheap.
Dayton audio makes a thin sub that is pretty cheap, their stuff is usually decent, do a couple of 8" inchers rather than one 12"

I don't agree with the never below 30hz. The 15" box in my work truck is tuned to 24hz iirc with a SS set at 10hz . sounds good with everything and can handle the Dstep with no problems if called upon.

 

[JulesMaximus]

Sorry, that is just too big for my Jetta. As I said, I care about room in my trunk.

So, I have to ask:

Is there anything wrong with the Best Buy Kicker sub in the case I linked to in the OP? I think that the 500W Alpine amp is a bit of overkill, but as I said, with that subwoofer working out to almost free (redeeming 'thank you' points), it'd leave me a bunch more cash to spend on the amp and another installation kit. Of course, I could always just buy a 200-300W amp.

BTW: I read with interest what Phucheneh said about the ported sub-woofers. But, I figure that since this sub and enclosure were put together by the guys who make the sub, they've probably done the research.

I had a 10" box sub in the trunk of my Maxima driven by a mono amp and it kicked hard enough to shake my rear view mirror. I had a Pioneer HU and I had replaced all the door speakers. Sounded pretty good. Much better than the OEM crap in my current car.

The sub takes up a lot of space but it was easy enough to disconnect and remove if I needed the space. The amp was mounted to the back of the seats where the pass through is so it didn't take up much space at all.

 

[Imported]

Too bad its almost impossible to find a SI BM MKIII anymore. Only requires .5 cubic feet. I regret selling the one I had.

 

[Bacstar]

It's been a couple weeks since I got my 12" Alpine Type-R, ported box, on a 600w mono amp in my trunk. I'm really liking the sound of it. I have a separate knob in the front that lets me control its volume for the type of music I'm listening to, very satisfied...

 

[HeXen]

I don't agree with the never below 30hz. The 15" box in my work truck is tuned to 24hz iirc with a SS set at 10hz . sounds good with everything and can handle the Dstep with no problems if called upon.

But becomes more like that of a sealed box output wise. You get more accuracy at the expense of output, or to say a flatter response frequency which imo seems like it would defeat the entire purpose of using a Port.
Rather i should say that most enthusiasts proclaim they use 32hz at the major car audio forums and seems to be the most commonly recommended.
I listen to rock music which doesn't go very low anyway so i prefer it closer to 40hz. If i listened to Dstep on it i'm sure it would overload my sub since i'm tuned too high for really deep notes.

mabe this quote explains better, then again you may already know this and prefer it for Dstep but i'll quote it for reference to others.

A ported box tuned 25Hz will still allow your system to hit the ultra low bass notes while still keeping sealed like sound quality. The disadvantage is the enclosure will then have a fairly flat frequency range. And then the most common frequency range found usually in pre-built ported / vented enclosures is around 33 – 35Hz. At this frequency the enclosure will still deliver much more bass output than a sealed box but at the same type with still retain most of the sound quality. In other words you will get the best of both worlds with a ported box run at about 33Hz.

 

[deadken]

Wow... I'm reading a lot of information here. I expected differing opinions, but I thought that they might have a common theme. I'll clear up a few things that were pointed out:
I was thinking that my budget would be around $350. That is what most local car stereo places quoted me. I figured that if I got the Best Buy Gift cards for 'free' (by using the CC thank you points), that would free up some cash. Perhaps letting me buy better quality pieces.

My head unit is:
a Sony,
http://www.amazon.com/Sony-CXS-GT541...ereo+usb+combo

My Amp is:
an Alpine 300W @ 2ohms (200W @ 4ohms),
http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-MRP-F30...ds=alpine+200w

My Speakers are:
Infinity Kappas 2ohm 5 3/4" in the front doors
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Infinity Kappas 2ohm 6 1/2" on the rear deck
http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-629I-...nity+kappa+6.5

Unfortunately, I used cheap cabling kits:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I think that I really have to measure how much room I have alongside the amp I mounted in the trunk (on the back of the rear seat). That would give me a solid reference point to go by.

I thought that by buying a combo / loaded sub-woofer would make things a bit easier. I figured this would be like the video card forum where I explain what I have and what I'm looking for and suggestions would be given as to which products would fit my needs. Apparently, this is much more complicated.

At this point, I'm figuring that I'll need to get a 12" sub in a full sized enclosure. I looked at the 10" sub enclosures and they really aren't much bigger than the 10". I guess, if I can fit a 12", I'll get a 12".

If anyone has a simple clear cut suggestion, I would really love to hear it. After that, I hope we can all discuss the pros and cons of using that suggestion.

Thank you guys very much for all of the input / suggestions so far. I appreciate the effort. Let me ask: Is it worth it to just pay someone $350 or so and let them give me an amp / box / sub-woofer? I'm guessing that I could do better by doing it myself, but I'm also thinking that a stereo shop would have the experience to put together a decent sounding combo. Also, if I don't like the way it sounds, I'm guessing there would be some kind of return policy (maybe I should say exchange + cash for a better unit).

 

[phucheneh]

12" Type R, ~500w monoblock. <$350. Put it in a ~1cf sealed box, facing backwards. 100hz low pass filter. It will be plenty loud, but not peaky and uncontrolled, so long as you don't turn up some kind of bass boost crap or something.

What you really need is a set of 6.5" comps up front. 5.25's are not going to reach down to meet the rolloff of the frequencies being played by the subwoofer. And Kappas are generally bright (to be kind...I'd rather say 'harsh') and kind of lacking in midbass, to boot.

You can bring up the LPF on the sub amp to fill out that area, but above 100hz or so, it becomes easy to realize that the bass is coming from the rear. Which I guess is not that big of an issue if your rear speakers are stronger, anyway. But if you heard a proper front speaker setup, I think you'd be amazed.

It's like that song...'you don't know what you got until you hear something better.' I think that's how that goes.

 

[phucheneh]

One direct comment should be made...

I'm also thinking that a stereo shop would have the experience to put together a decent sounding combo.

...no. Also you're going to pay more to get less. And it will be installed by hourly workers making slightly more than a Mcdonalds fry cook.

 

[Imported]

One direct comment should be made...



...no. Also you're going to pay more to get less. And it will be installed by hourly workers making slightly more than a Mcdonalds fry cook.

Depends where you go.