Looking for some Guides to lapping my tuniq tower
- Thread starter Heller
- Start date
I lapped a couple of my Tuniq's. It is a pain in the ass process.
Checkout Graysky's lapping thread. What is good for lapping CPU is generally good for lapping HSF.
http://forums.anandtech.com/me...yword1=graysky+lapping
Get yourself some 70 grit to round off the corners on the Tuniq copper base to start, this will help reduce the binding/skipping that happens when you start to lap the base at higher grits.
Go to Autozone or any auto parts store and get yourself some wet/dry 220, 400, 800, and 1000 grit sand paper. They will be ~8x10 inch sheets.
Follow graysky's guide for sanding the CPU at this point.
For Tuniq, I found putting my fingers "thru" the heatpipes really helped to keep it stable. Its hard to make that sound like anything sensical with words alone, do you see what I mean when you look at the Tuniq?
Checkout Graysky's lapping thread. What is good for lapping CPU is generally good for lapping HSF.
http://forums.anandtech.com/me...yword1=graysky+lapping
Get yourself some 70 grit to round off the corners on the Tuniq copper base to start, this will help reduce the binding/skipping that happens when you start to lap the base at higher grits.
Go to Autozone or any auto parts store and get yourself some wet/dry 220, 400, 800, and 1000 grit sand paper. They will be ~8x10 inch sheets.
Follow graysky's guide for sanding the CPU at this point.
For Tuniq, I found putting my fingers "thru" the heatpipes really helped to keep it stable. Its hard to make that sound like anything sensical with words alone, do you see what I mean when you look at the Tuniq?
superstition
Platinum Member
- Feb 2, 2008
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I handle my processor while wearing an anti-static wrist strap, by the way.
1. Get a pic of glass the size of letter size paper. Wal-Mart works for this. Just buy the cheapest framed piece of glass.
2. Remove from frame.
3. Tape to flat surface. Put tape along the entire sharp edge of the glass. Don't leave any sharp glass exposed.
4. Buy some 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Two letter sheets is probably plenty. Buy some 1000 or 1200 grip automotive sandpaper at Wal-Mart. I tried a higher grit (1500) from Ace Hardware and it caused a lot of scratches. The Wal-Mart paper is also nice because it's precut to narrow strips.
5. Have some strong tape, like clear tape that has nylon strips inside. You'll need to tape down the glass as well as the paper.
6. Clean whatever you're lapping with isopropyl alcohol (do it outside to avoid breathing the fumes). 90% alcohol cleans faster. You can use Q tips. Don't get oil or any other foreign substance on your heatsink or processor cover. If you heatsink is new, you don't need to clean it unless you got fingerprints on the bottom.
7. Start with the low grit paper and push the heatsink in vertical strokes, up and down, along the taped down paper. Rotate the bottom 90 degrees periodically. Make sure you're applying pressure evenly so the heatsink is flat when you're doing this. You'll figure out the best way to hold it. A spray bottle with distilled water set to mist is a good idea to keep dust down. Mist the paper before using it. Don't overwet the paper (like by dripping water) until the polishing stage. Don't follow the suggestion to drip water from your fingers. That's a great way to get oil on your heatsink.
8. Once you have a flat bottom, you can start using the high grit paper to polish. After some time, you'll come close to a mirror finish. If you press too hard you'll scratch the copper and have to spend a lot of time redoing your polishing. So, once you start getting a mirror, use less pressure and more water. At the end of the process I put a puddle on the paper and very lightly move the heatsink on it. Good paper is crucial here. I tried that Ace 1500 grit paper and it caused deep scratches and I had to repolish, which wasted a lot of time.
I don't think circular motion is very useful until you get to the polishing stage and even then it should be done carefully. I tend to do long straight strokes. You can rotate your heatsink 45 degrees periodically, too.
You'll need to clean your heatsink again with alcohol to remove all of the sandpaper residue.
It's not that hard. I have only lapped a single Tuniq and processor yet I feel my results are good enough to write a guide by. The heatsink is flat (except the corners/edges which seem much lower than the rest of the base), and has a nice blurry mirror finish. With 1000 grit paper I was not able to get a perfect mirror, although I don't think that's all that important. Flatness is the most important thing, followed by the removal of deep scratches.
1. Get a pic of glass the size of letter size paper. Wal-Mart works for this. Just buy the cheapest framed piece of glass.
2. Remove from frame.
3. Tape to flat surface. Put tape along the entire sharp edge of the glass. Don't leave any sharp glass exposed.
4. Buy some 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Two letter sheets is probably plenty. Buy some 1000 or 1200 grip automotive sandpaper at Wal-Mart. I tried a higher grit (1500) from Ace Hardware and it caused a lot of scratches. The Wal-Mart paper is also nice because it's precut to narrow strips.
5. Have some strong tape, like clear tape that has nylon strips inside. You'll need to tape down the glass as well as the paper.
6. Clean whatever you're lapping with isopropyl alcohol (do it outside to avoid breathing the fumes). 90% alcohol cleans faster. You can use Q tips. Don't get oil or any other foreign substance on your heatsink or processor cover. If you heatsink is new, you don't need to clean it unless you got fingerprints on the bottom.
7. Start with the low grit paper and push the heatsink in vertical strokes, up and down, along the taped down paper. Rotate the bottom 90 degrees periodically. Make sure you're applying pressure evenly so the heatsink is flat when you're doing this. You'll figure out the best way to hold it. A spray bottle with distilled water set to mist is a good idea to keep dust down. Mist the paper before using it. Don't overwet the paper (like by dripping water) until the polishing stage. Don't follow the suggestion to drip water from your fingers. That's a great way to get oil on your heatsink.
8. Once you have a flat bottom, you can start using the high grit paper to polish. After some time, you'll come close to a mirror finish. If you press too hard you'll scratch the copper and have to spend a lot of time redoing your polishing. So, once you start getting a mirror, use less pressure and more water. At the end of the process I put a puddle on the paper and very lightly move the heatsink on it. Good paper is crucial here. I tried that Ace 1500 grit paper and it caused deep scratches and I had to repolish, which wasted a lot of time.
I don't think circular motion is very useful until you get to the polishing stage and even then it should be done carefully. I tend to do long straight strokes. You can rotate your heatsink 45 degrees periodically, too.
You'll need to clean your heatsink again with alcohol to remove all of the sandpaper residue.
It's not that hard. I have only lapped a single Tuniq and processor yet I feel my results are good enough to write a guide by. The heatsink is flat (except the corners/edges which seem much lower than the rest of the base), and has a nice blurry mirror finish. With 1000 grit paper I was not able to get a perfect mirror, although I don't think that's all that important. Flatness is the most important thing, followed by the removal of deep scratches.
superstition
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- Feb 2, 2008
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They dropped quite a bit, but the results have been complicated by the switch from CoreTemp .96 to .96.1. A lot of people are saying the CoreTemp .96.1 temperatures aren't accurate for an MO stepping e2140.
superstition
Platinum Member
- Feb 2, 2008
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For 12$, that lapping kit is a pretty good deal. Although I don't really see the point in going from 220 and working your way up every grit. All your really going for is a FLAT surface and one with less roughness than the factory machined surface finish.
Though, for less than 4$ you can pick up a pack of wet/dry @ autozone that includes 1 each of 220, 400, 800, and 1000(each sheet is 8X10 I believe). Or just go with a 4 pack of 220 grit, a 4 pack of 1000 grit, and maybe a 4 pack of 2000 grit if you "need" the mirror finish.
I am in the process of growing some nuts to lap my E4500,
. Just last night I did a practice run on my old Athlon 64 and it HSF. Results were great, only after about an hour of sanding, I could get the suction effect from laying the HSF on the CPU and lifting them both.
After reading several guides, I found the best method for me was to lap the CPU using a figure eight motion. If I did the back and forth method, the CPU or heatsink would sorta skip or stutter. Any reason why I should use the back and forth method as opposed to figure 8?
Though, for less than 4$ you can pick up a pack of wet/dry @ autozone that includes 1 each of 220, 400, 800, and 1000(each sheet is 8X10 I believe). Or just go with a 4 pack of 220 grit, a 4 pack of 1000 grit, and maybe a 4 pack of 2000 grit if you "need" the mirror finish.
I am in the process of growing some nuts to lap my E4500,
. Just last night I did a practice run on my old Athlon 64 and it HSF. Results were great, only after about an hour of sanding, I could get the suction effect from laying the HSF on the CPU and lifting them both.After reading several guides, I found the best method for me was to lap the CPU using a figure eight motion. If I did the back and forth method, the CPU or heatsink would sorta skip or stutter. Any reason why I should use the back and forth method as opposed to figure 8?
Avoid AT ALL COSTS the lapping kit from SVC. Unless you like the idea of lapping your IHS/HSF in 2-inch strokes for hours and hours.
SVC lapping kit versus $1 sandpaper from Autozone
Nice tablecloth, lol. Easy on the eyes.
Yeah I noticed the sheets from SVC where only 2.75? x 4.5?. Is there room for tape?
I was just checking some other guides and came across one that suggested using Mineral Oil on the sandpaper. Anyone know if this is a good/bad idea?
The tablecloth was a mandatory from the wife as I was using her refinished antique table as a workbench for a while. It was an easy agreement to make as she gave me no question at all regarding all the hardware I was buying at the time
Whether you wet the sandpaper or not is really the question to answer, what you wet it with is mostly immaterial (second-order).
I tried dry-sanding, wetting with water, and wetting with dishsoap water, and wetting with straight dishsoap.
In all cases the polishing effort and time was about the same, no noticable benefits to the process. (I polished 3 Q6600 and 3 Tuniqs, and then 1 B3 QX6700 and 1 vapophase LS evap head)
What I ultimately selected was just straight dry-sanding. It was the least messy and least hassle to cleanup and in general my work area stayed the tidiest the more I kept liquids away from the situation.
Obviously this is going to be a user-by-user preference.
Whether you wet the sandpaper or not is really the question to answer, what you wet it with is mostly immaterial (second-order).
I tried dry-sanding, wetting with water, and wetting with dishsoap water, and wetting with straight dishsoap.
In all cases the polishing effort and time was about the same, no noticable benefits to the process. (I polished 3 Q6600 and 3 Tuniqs, and then 1 B3 QX6700 and 1 vapophase LS evap head)
What I ultimately selected was just straight dry-sanding. It was the least messy and least hassle to cleanup and in general my work area stayed the tidiest the more I kept liquids away from the situation.
Obviously this is going to be a user-by-user preference.
The link to this guide has been posted here a number of times. I agree with Idontcare, and as the guide states, first put a bevel on the edges of the HS base. The bevel will keep the edge of the base from catching the sandpaper and tipping the HS over.
Buying sandpaper from auto parts stores, Walmart, or Ace Hardware (ours sells it in individual sheets) is cheaper than a kit, and you'll have sheets left over for future lappings.
I stop at 800 grit. Do a forum search, what grit to stop at has been discussed here a number of times.
Buying sandpaper from auto parts stores, Walmart, or Ace Hardware (ours sells it in individual sheets) is cheaper than a kit, and you'll have sheets left over for future lappings.
I stop at 800 grit. Do a forum search, what grit to stop at has been discussed here a number of times.
- Jul 10, 2006
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Originally posted by: Idontcare
The tablecloth was a mandatory from the wife as I was using her refinished antique table as a workbench for a while. It was an easy agreement to make as she gave me no question at all regarding all the hardware I was buying at the time
Whether you wet the sandpaper or not is really the question to answer, what you wet it with is mostly immaterial (second-order).
I tried dry-sanding, wetting with water, and wetting with dishsoap water, and wetting with straight dishsoap.
In all cases the polishing effort and time was about the same, no noticable benefits to the process. (I polished 3 Q6600 and 3 Tuniqs, and then 1 B3 QX6700 and 1 vapophase LS evap head)
What I ultimately selected was just straight dry-sanding. It was the least messy and least hassle to cleanup and in general my work area stayed the tidiest the more I kept liquids away from the situation.
Obviously this is going to be a user-by-user preference.
wanna sell me one of your tuniqs!
I Lapped my e8400 & a thermalright ultra 120. I did both on a 8.5 x 11 sheet of 220, 600 and then 1500 automotive wet/dry paper... I used a spray bottle of water when it started to get sticky and jittery. I also put my hand through the pipes as people have said. I didnt think to round off the corners first on some low grit on the HSF to help it keep from skipping. I did the project on a 4ft x 4ft piece of glass ( my coffee table) Turned out good. I did it quickly and dindn't bother with a mirror finish, as i supposed i would never see the two surfaces again. The e8400 ihs turned out good, got it down to copper. the TRU really needed it, I notice the base had ridges and was extremely non-flat from the factory. Probably helped my load temps by 7-10C overall, and the cores stayed the same temp at load after lapping. It probably took 2 hours.
Wow, very informative, thanks. I think I'll keep all liquids away except maybe as jaredpace said "I used a spray bottle of water when it started to get sticky and jittery".
A bevel is just a rounding off of the edges of the heatsink, so its not so square.
Say this is your heatsink base l_______l, here it is beveled \__________/.
I think I'd rather use mineral oil rather than baby oil, same thing but without the added fragrance .
There is good info @ wiki on lapping. Does not really say about lapping HSF/IHS but it is a good read. Read the part under "operation" says to use a figure eight pattern.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lapping
Also for those that lap a lot here is a link for some inexpensive surface plates that will ensure a completely flat surface with no risk of breaking the glass or getting cut. The smallest one is only around $22 shipped. Not for everyone but a good tool to have.
http://grizzly.com/products/se...aspx?q=granite%20plate
Technically using sand paper is not lapping its called sanding. Sorry I was a machinist for a long time.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lapping
Also for those that lap a lot here is a link for some inexpensive surface plates that will ensure a completely flat surface with no risk of breaking the glass or getting cut. The smallest one is only around $22 shipped. Not for everyone but a good tool to have.
http://grizzly.com/products/se...aspx?q=granite%20plate
Technically using sand paper is not lapping its called sanding. Sorry I was a machinist for a long time.
Rubycon
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- Aug 10, 2005
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I have a friend that's a machinist and he properly faced my TRUE CPU contact surface and gave me the CMM output of the results. :Q Honestly I would not attempt sanding either surface (cpu or hsf) after having a discussion with him. But as they say (if the shoe fits, wear it!) all the better!
Originally posted by: Rubycon
I have a friend that's a machinist and he properly faced my TRUE CPU contact surface and gave me the CMM output of the results. :Q Honestly I would not attempt sanding either surface (cpu or hsf) after having a discussion with him. But as they say (if the shoe fits, wear it!) all the better!
I hear you on that one. My manager used to give me headaches with his techno babble.
Originally posted by: Rubycon
I have a friend that's a machinist and he properly faced my TRUE CPU contact surface and gave me the CMM output of the results. :Q Honestly I would not attempt sanding either surface (cpu or hsf) after having a discussion with him. But as they say (if the shoe fits, wear it!) all the better!
I got a tool & die man that lives across the street from me. Perhaps he can save me some time & trouble?
superstition
Platinum Member
- Feb 2, 2008
- 2,219
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