• We’re currently investigating an issue related to the forum theme and styling that is impacting page layout and visual formatting. The problem has been identified, and we are actively working on a resolution. There is no impact to user data or functionality, this is strictly a front-end display issue. We’ll post an update once the fix has been deployed. Thanks for your patience while we get this sorted.

looking for new air filter

zinfamous

zinfamous

No Lifer
So I'm looking to plug a new air filter into my "new" Mazda3. I recently read some comments in another thread here where you guys were slamming K&N for being "not worth the trouble" or whatever.

Is there a story behind that? I'm ~ 1 decade removed from paying much attention to auto-related news, and never really upgraded one of my vehicles before that.

A buddy of mine recently through a K&N in his truck and is quite pleased. He knows way more about cars than I, so I'm curious.

What's the issue with K&N and is it legit? Any other recs?

peace.
 
Originally posted by: Saga
Pointy elbows. Thats all.
Click to expand...

😉

(btw, I wink b/c this is probably the most perfect answer...kind of what I was expecting, and expertly phrased in AT language for increased brevity + comprehension.)
 
Originally posted by: LTC8K6
They don't filter as well. They can gunk up your throttle body with oily dirt. For starters...
Click to expand...

OK...so now I remember a chart that was posted.

The AC Delco was the champ, was it not?

I remember the test used a big ass pickup or some such....does the same strain and conditions apply to all styles/engines? Would an air filter tested on a honking V8 work truck apply towards a 4 cylinder compact?
 
Power gain from a K&N filter is going to be little to none and the filtering not vastly reduce, not like "oh, maybe 10% worse", I mean like 50% worse.

Less scientific
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest1.htm

Industry standard scientific ISO test
<a target=_blank class=ftalternatingbarlinklarge href="http://duramax-diesel.com/spicer/index.htm">http://duramax-diesel.com/spicer/index.htm
</a>
K&N is all marketing. The only plus is you can wash an re-oil versus replace he filter but for how much air filters cost and the price you pay in engine wear going K&N, i would go oem unless your car sees nothing but racetracks and your car is built up for competition. It's not a big deal if you do a engine rebuild on a highly stressed race engine every couple of years, it is going to be a factor if you will drive your car 100K+ of miles.

OEM if you don't know what to buy i usually a good choice, you really can't go wrong with OEM.

A large turbodiesel is a high compression, high intake engine so performance will actually be greater on a engine like that. If you have some normal 2.3 or 2.0L I4, performance gains will be less.

Filters can flow well, hold a lot of dirt or filter well, pick 1 or 2 of the 3.
 
K&N will work well enough, provided you follow instructions and it's on a decent match. FWIW, the Duratecs do pretty well with increased air flow, but it's not going to be any huge gain. There's a thread you can google, a guy dynoed his 2.3L Mazda3s before and after the K&N, and gained a shade over 4whp.
 
Originally posted by: zinfamous
So.... K&N = Monster = Bose?

gotcha.
Click to expand...

No, monster cable vs. regular monoprice cable = no difference.

K&N vs. Stock, depending on application, can be a noticeable difference, dyno proven. Whether or not it's worth trading a little added power (IIRC, the 2.3L Mazda motor went from 132whp to 136whp, big whoop lol) for degraded filtration is up to you.

But it's no mistake that almost every performance modification recipe has improvements to the intake system pretty early in the list, usually grouped together with increased exhaust flow, improved fuel delivery, ECU tuning, and the other usual suspects.

It's neither the greatest thing ever nor totally worthless, but somewhere in between, and it's up to you to decide whether it will do what you want it to, and whether it's worth the downsides, the time, and the money.

Also, there is usually more noise after going to a K&N (and definitely if you replace the stock plastic intake crapola with a CAI or SRI), that can also be good or bad depending on your view.
 
AH...I see. I have the measly 2.0, so I'm thinking there may be no reason to go beyond OEM with this type of car--which I will not race, and plan to drive into the dirt (unless I get a shine to something else in the next 5 years and want to trade in....)

I was hoping to increase the mileage slightly, and up the pick-up a bit, but I guess that just ain't gonna happen on the cheap and for what I plan on doing with this car.



So, what I have noticed, and has been my only real complaint with the car, is that the suspension is indeed tight? (See, I'm learning new auto lingo as I go along. I'm thinking tight = bumpy = feel every damn bump, ridge, ripple in the road). Something I never noticed with my (beloved) '90 Accord EX 5spd (RIP) and '93 Maxima.

So...is it reasonable to spend a little cash on the suspension? Will I be able to notice an improvement? ...and what the hell do I have to replace to improve the ride? I get links to all sorts of parts and pieces. I only think shock absorber and coils (same thing?) but there are all types of rods and such....

<---fail 🙁
 
Originally posted by: Arkaign
Originally posted by: zinfamous
So.... K&N = Monster = Bose?

gotcha.
Click to expand...

No, monster cable vs. regular monoprice cable = no difference.

K&N vs. Stock, depending on application, can be a noticeable difference, dyno proven. Whether or not it's worth trading a little added power (IIRC, the 2.3L Mazda motor went from 132whp to 136whp, big whoop lol) for degraded filtration is up to you.

But it's no mistake that almost every performance modification recipe has improvements to the intake system pretty early in the list, usually grouped together with increased exhaust flow, improved fuel delivery, ECU tuning, and the other usual suspects.

It's neither the greatest thing ever nor totally worthless, but somewhere in between, and it's up to you to decide whether it will do what you want it to, and whether it's worth the downsides, the time, and the money.

Also, there is usually more noise after going to a K&N (and definitely if you replace the stock plastic intake crapola with a CAI or SRI), that can also be good or bad depending on your view.
Click to expand...

... so K&N = Bose?
😉
 
If you wanted a Mazda3 with a cushy ride you should have bought a Corolla. 😉 The ride/handling tradeoff in the Mazda3 is considered excellent by enthusiasts on a budget, but if you aren't an enthusiast and want a cushy ride, there were other models of cars that would have given you that (Corolla, Elantra). There aren't going to be any aftermarket suspensions that will give you a softer ride, only a harder ride than you already have. The aftermarket is aimed at performance, not comfort. Also an entire suspension replacement can easily cost $2000, money that would be better spent buying a better model of car. Just my two cents. 🙂
 
OEM tuning parts are the way to go...I think Mazda's in-house tuning division is MazdaSpeed. Google them up and see if they offer a CAI or High-Flow intake for your vehicle. That would be much better than a K&N option.

There are real benefits to a high flow or cold air intake designed to work with your vehicle. There are real disadvantages to one that is sold as a "one size fits all" model. Pay for the OEM part. It's worth it.
 
Originally posted by: zinfamous
Originally posted by: Arkaign
Originally posted by: zinfamous
So.... K&N = Monster = Bose?

gotcha.
Click to expand...

No, monster cable vs. regular monoprice cable = no difference.

K&N vs. Stock, depending on application, can be a noticeable difference, dyno proven. Whether or not it's worth trading a little added power (IIRC, the 2.3L Mazda motor went from 132whp to 136whp, big whoop lol) for degraded filtration is up to you.

But it's no mistake that almost every performance modification recipe has improvements to the intake system pretty early in the list, usually grouped together with increased exhaust flow, improved fuel delivery, ECU tuning, and the other usual suspects.

It's neither the greatest thing ever nor totally worthless, but somewhere in between, and it's up to you to decide whether it will do what you want it to, and whether it's worth the downsides, the time, and the money.

Also, there is usually more noise after going to a K&N (and definitely if you replace the stock plastic intake crapola with a CAI or SRI), that can also be good or bad depending on your view.
Click to expand...

... so K&N = Bose?
😉
Click to expand...


no.
 
Originally posted by: zinfamous
AH...I see. I have the measly 2.0, so I'm thinking there may be no reason to go beyond OEM with this type of car--which I will not race, and plan to drive into the dirt (unless I get a shine to something else in the next 5 years and want to trade in....)

I was hoping to increase the mileage slightly, and up the pick-up a bit, but I guess that just ain't gonna happen on the cheap and for what I plan on doing with this car.



So, what I have noticed, and has been my only real complaint with the car, is that the suspension is indeed tight? (See, I'm learning new auto lingo as I go along. I'm thinking tight = bumpy = feel every damn bump, ridge, ripple in the road). Something I never noticed with my (beloved) '90 Accord EX 5spd (RIP) and '93 Maxima.

So...is it reasonable to spend a little cash on the suspension? Will I be able to notice an improvement? ...and what the hell do I have to replace to improve the ride? I get links to all sorts of parts and pieces. I only think shock absorber and coils (same thing?) but there are all types of rods and such....

<---fail 🙁
Click to expand...

no. if you get a different of susepnsion, you'll kill the handling, which is the reason why you buy a mazda3. No ones buys a mazda 3 for a comfy ride. The handling is "tight" because that is how you achieve the sport handling. Once you start tuning a car towards comfort, that sporty handling will makes the car feel like a boat, which is why Toyotas have extremely sensitive assisted steering. It's not a bad thing, but if you really like the sporty handling, you wont appreciate handling from toyota and vice versa.

That said, most after market stuff is sport tuned stuff....it will make you ride even more uncomfy if anything.

As for air filter, just get what you can get. Lots of the stuff is rebadged anyways. K&N lets more stuff through, but only because they want to increase airflow. For real sports/performance cars, yeah, that is what you want. For a daily driver, no, you want something that will keep stuff out. K&N was never made for the consumer market. It was made for a niche market, but somewhere along the line, people misundertood this and K&N said, "Are we dumb? We are not going to not sell this to people who do not need it...PROFIT!"
 
Another vote from me for getting a regular air filter and skipping the K&N. I had a Ford Contour with the same Duratec v6 and the K&N gunked up my throttle body and started making the thing stick open. That was obnoxixous on a manual transmission car. I'd step on the clutch, come off the gas and the revs would just climb till the return spring pulled the butterfly free from the gunk. Had to take the throttle body apart and clean it out with carb cleaner. Looked in the intake and the same sticky gunk was all over in there too. Made me wince when I thought about how much of that went into my engine. After that, I'll never buy a K&N again. Huge PITA.

EDIT: Scratch Duratec V6. Someone said Duratec and I was thinking of the old Contour/Mystique/Cougar motor. I don't think the Mazda 3 comes with the 2.5 V6.
 
Originally posted by: AMCRambler
Another vote from me for getting a regular air filter and skipping the K&N. I had a Ford Contour with the same Duratec v6 and the K&N gunked up my throttle body and started making the thing stick open. That was obnoxixous on a manual transmission car. I'd step on the clutch, come off the gas and the revs would just climb till the return spring pulled the butterfly free from the gunk. Had to take the throttle body apart and clean it out with carb cleaner. Looked in the intake and the same sticky gunk was all over in there too. Made me wince when I thought about how much of that went into my engine. After that, I'll never buy a K&N again. Huge PITA.

EDIT: Scratch Duratec V6. Someone said Duratec and I was thinking of the old Contour/Mystique/Cougar motor. I don't think the Mazda 3 comes with the 2.5 V6.
Click to expand...

Yeah, different motor, but still good advice really.

Mazda Duratec in the 3 are the 2.0L, 2.3L, and now the 2.5L i4 motors, all quite excellent really.
 
Originally posted by: Arkaign
Originally posted by: AMCRambler
Another vote from me for getting a regular air filter and skipping the K&N. I had a Ford Contour with the same Duratec v6 and the K&N gunked up my throttle body and started making the thing stick open. That was obnoxixous on a manual transmission car. I'd step on the clutch, come off the gas and the revs would just climb till the return spring pulled the butterfly free from the gunk. Had to take the throttle body apart and clean it out with carb cleaner. Looked in the intake and the same sticky gunk was all over in there too. Made me wince when I thought about how much of that went into my engine. After that, I'll never buy a K&N again. Huge PITA.

EDIT: Scratch Duratec V6. Someone said Duratec and I was thinking of the old Contour/Mystique/Cougar motor. I don't think the Mazda 3 comes with the 2.5 V6.
Click to expand...

Yeah, different motor, but still good advice really.

Mazda Duratec in the 3 are the 2.0L, 2.3L, and now the 2.5L i4 motors, all quite excellent really.
Click to expand...

It was bugging me so I went poking around. The old 2.0 inline 4 was the Zetec. Probably where the new engines got their roots unless they've completely re-designed them.
 
Originally posted by: Gillbot
Not to mention I dynoed my camaro with a K&N and a paper filter. I made max power on the paper filter.
Click to expand...

Well in the filters defense you can't make power by just throwing it in there. You have to tune for it correctly.
 
Originally posted by: zerocool84
Originally posted by: Gillbot
Not to mention I dynoed my camaro with a K&N and a paper filter. I made max power on the paper filter.
Click to expand...

Well in the filters defense you can't make power by just throwing it in there. You have to tune for it correctly.
Click to expand...

Not max power.

While it's true you get the most out of exhaust/filter systems by tuning the vehicle's ECU for it, you'll still see some gains even untuned. It just won't be what you can get tuned.
 
Originally posted by: zerocool84
Originally posted by: Gillbot
Not to mention I dynoed my camaro with a K&N and a paper filter. I made max power on the paper filter.
Click to expand...

Well in the filters defense you can't make power by just throwing it in there. You have to tune for it correctly.
Click to expand...

We were in the process of tuning the car. 😉 This was a test to see if it actually would gain anything on the dyno over a paper filter. It did not.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

TRENDING THREADS

Back
Top