Looking for 2 new soundbars

iamloco724

Member
Nov 16, 2011
96
3
71
I am looking to replace my soundbar system since I am moving into my own place. I'm looking for two setups

I currently have a Sony HT-CT150 3.1

This my current setup

I have my TV going into the ARC port and there's 3 other ports one with my cable DVR, Nvidia Shield TV and the last one has a 4 port HDMI switch with other devices connected to that
I know it's hard to find this many ports on today's models so I can get away with ARC plus 2 HDMI if possible worst case scenario ARC plus 1 extra and I'll get a switch with more ports.

I need them to play Dolby Digital Plus and Atmos and I really need it to be good at leveling sound so louder sounds aren't louder than dialogue

Unlimited budget really for the first one that one will be used for movies, shows and I want to stream music to it if possible

The other one I'd like to keep it at $300-400 that one is for a bedroom and the only requirement besides needing to hook up the same device setup is also the Dolby Digital Plus and Atmos

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 

zinfamous

No Lifer
Jul 12, 2006
110,592
29,221
146
Not sure if you're still paying attention to this, but these days it seems the Nakamichi Saoundwafe 9.2 and 7.2.4s are generally considered "the best" at any price.

Currently on BestBuy's BF sale


I've been considering getting one of these because I just want to reduce the footprint in my room and just clean up the way things look up front. I've had my floorstanding polk system for more than 10 years now and well, it's perfectly fine, but eh, I'm tired of looking at giant speakers. I never believed in the soundbar idea, but apparently they have come a seriously long way and honestly...look at this thing. It comes with 2 subwoofers and 4x surrounds, lol. so...is it really a "soundbar"? I guess not, but hey, I'm sure the WAF is pretty huge on this compared to any traditional setup.


If you really want a full system in one soundbar, I guess the Yamaha that has something like 16 drivers in one bar is pretty popular, and a wee bit insane.

 
  • Like
Reactions: ElFenix

Aikouka

Lifer
Nov 27, 2001
30,383
912
126
Not sure if you're still paying attention to this, but these days it seems the Nakamichi Saoundwafe 9.2 and 7.2.4s are generally considered "the best" at any price.

Currently on BestBuy's BF sale


I've been considering getting one of these because I just want to reduce the footprint in my room and just clean up the way things look up front. I've had my floorstanding polk system for more than 10 years now and well, it's perfectly fine, but eh, I'm tired of looking at giant speakers. I never believed in the soundbar idea, but apparently they have come a seriously long way and honestly...look at this thing. It comes with 2 subwoofers and 4x surrounds, lol. so...is it really a "soundbar"? I guess not, but hey, I'm sure the WAF is pretty huge on this compared to any traditional setup.


If you really want a full system in one soundbar, I guess the Yamaha that has something like 16 drivers in one bar is pretty popular, and a wee bit insane.


I ran into the same thing. I really like surround audio, and consequently, I had speakers in my bedroom to handle just that. Similar to you, they took up a lot of floor space and just made the room feel so much smaller. I had always debated putting in-wall speakers in there, but I didn't want to turn off any prospective future buyers or leave myself a bunch of speakers to remove and holes to patch. So, I ended up going with a soundbar to find a nice middle ground. In my case, I went with the JBL Bar 9.1, which was rated well by Rtings. The Samsung unit was considered better overall, but its surround wasn't as well rated. Although, I have found that the JBL Bar 9.1 tries to make everything surround sound, and I'm not sure how I feel about that. I'll be watching anime, which is typically in stereo, and i hear slight bits of a voice coming from the surrounds.
 

Aikouka

Lifer
Nov 27, 2001
30,383
912
126
Not sure if you're still paying attention to this, but these days it seems the Nakamichi Saoundwafe 9.2 and 7.2.4s are generally considered "the best" at any price.

So, I ended up returning the JBL Bar 9.1 because it kept failing to charge the surround speakers even though I left them attached to the soundbar almost all of the time. The soundbar kept yelling at me to charge them when I'd remove the surrounds. In its place, I picked up the Nakamichi Soundwafe 7.1.4. I didn't see a point in paying about $200 more just for an extra subwoofer given the smaller room.

So far, I'm a bit mixed. The Nakamichi does an okay job alleviating one huge issue that I have with soundbars... the lack of HDMI inputs. I currently use six devices in that setup, and that worked absolutely fine with my Denon AVR X2400H. With the JBL Bar 9.1 (one input) and the Nakamichi Soundwafe 7.1.4 (three inputs), I still have to use a secondary switching device. Although, with the latter, I could probably use a mix of direct inputs and TV inputs (using ARC for audio to the soundbar).

So, I tried out the TESmart HSW0801A1U and the Kinivo 550BN, and both of them have had problems. With the TESmart unit, it just refuses to pass Dolby Atmos EDID information, and as a result, my AppleTV wouldn't enable Dolby Atmos. Plugging directly into the sound bar fixed the problem, which made it pretty obvious what was the problem. Also, my PS4 Pro wouldn't allow me to enable HDR while plugged into the TESmart unit. The Kinivo didn't have any of the aforementioned problems; however, it does have a really bad issue with the AppleTV. It will only display content from the AppleTV for about 5-10 seconds before the soundbar reverts back to ARC. Similar to the TESmart, plugging directly into the soundbar fixes this.

There's also one problem that worries me about these soundbars... HDMI port position. The Nakamichi has the ports running parallel to the length of the soundbar and there isn't a very large cutout for them. The problem is that HDMI 2.0/2.1 cables are rather thick and they simply do not plug in straight. It's like there's always this tension on the port, and I'm worried that it'll end up resulting in premature port and/or cable failure.
 

zinfamous

No Lifer
Jul 12, 2006
110,592
29,221
146
So, I ended up returning the JBL Bar 9.1 because it kept failing to charge the surround speakers even though I left them attached to the soundbar almost all of the time. The soundbar kept yelling at me to charge them when I'd remove the surrounds. In its place, I picked up the Nakamichi Soundwafe 7.1.4. I didn't see a point in paying about $200 more just for an extra subwoofer given the smaller room.

So far, I'm a bit mixed. The Nakamichi does an okay job alleviating one huge issue that I have with soundbars... the lack of HDMI inputs. I currently use six devices in that setup, and that worked absolutely fine with my Denon AVR X2400H. With the JBL Bar 9.1 (one input) and the Nakamichi Soundwafe 7.1.4 (three inputs), I still have to use a secondary switching device. Although, with the latter, I could probably use a mix of direct inputs and TV inputs (using ARC for audio to the soundbar).

So, I tried out the TESmart HSW0801A1U and the Kinivo 550BN, and both of them have had problems. With the TESmart unit, it just refuses to pass Dolby Atmos EDID information, and as a result, my AppleTV wouldn't enable Dolby Atmos. Plugging directly into the sound bar fixed the problem, which made it pretty obvious what was the problem. Also, my PS4 Pro wouldn't allow me to enable HDR while plugged into the TESmart unit. The Kinivo didn't have any of the aforementioned problems; however, it does have a really bad issue with the AppleTV. It will only display content from the AppleTV for about 5-10 seconds before the soundbar reverts back to ARC. Similar to the TESmart, plugging directly into the soundbar fixes this.

There's also one problem that worries me about these soundbars... HDMI port position. The Nakamichi has the ports running parallel to the length of the soundbar and there isn't a very large cutout for them. The problem is that HDMI 2.0/2.1 cables are rather thick and they simply do not plug in straight. It's like there's always this tension on the port, and I'm worried that it'll end up resulting in premature port and/or cable failure.

Man, I have hated HDMI cables since the day they were born because of that, and all other problems with them. It seems like they are the least "grabby" cable ever designed, for all the ways that people make them, their interfaces, and the fact that the port as just never attached. At least design a clip of some sort! But I also tend ot have thick, rigid HDMI cables, so that always makes things worse.

I....and funny you should mention. I posted this in another thread, but I actually sprung for the 9.2.4 on Best Buy's black Friday sale, and just picked it up last night (curbside...holy crap BB is a madhouse yesterday. I didn't know they were still getting that much traffic, even it being first day of 25% capacity, with an outside queue, and like half the parking lot there for curbside pickup @ 6:30, lol. Nuts.)

Anyway, I'm glad you are pointing out these issues, because I didn't really do the research like I normally do with such purchases, because it is just the first part in a potentially long, maybe never completed process (PS5 almost for sure next year; and maybe replacing the TV within a year after that. either LG OLED or springing for whatever $2-3k USTL projector is the hotness at the time). I didn't even think to check if my TV is ARC (...and I didn't even know what ARC is until recently, because I have absolutely not been staying informed. My current system was basically assembled in 2006, lol...and now I have to unload these Polk R50 floorstanders, CS1 center, Denon, PS10 sub, and junky, busted plasticky wall hanging Polk rears that are even older...like, 1998 old. No joke).

I did like the idea that the bar itself handles all of the sound processing...just further cleaning things up front. I was really looking at the 7.2 but, well, the sale. I was like, whatever. I was pretty much going to get 7.2 at normal price anyway, but BF put the 9.2 at the same normal price for the 7.2

I should be fine with HDMI ports, as I only plan to plug in the TV and, eventually, the PS5. I just have roof antennae > Coax into my TV for OTA content. Rest is streamed via TV apps or rarely, Chromecast. I don't really have plans to get any other sort of box, unless it turns out I eventually need something to supplement crappy options on another TV, or maybe run one of those media server thingies? I dunno, I've barely thought about that. Still, I had already assumed the flat port placement might be a nightmare.

I still don't understand how the wireless signal works in these--is it just RF timing controlled by the soundbar to the remote units? Is it actually over WiFi (that seems like it would have some latency, no? I thought I read that somewhere and it struck me as black magic, and also probably unnecessary?)

I like the systems with teh subs because I don't think you have the charging problem, right? Subs are powered into the wall, and the remote speakers are connected/powered via each sub, I think? Or is it just RCA to the sub...I haven't even read about it yet, and this giant box is sitting in my room.

But I'm also not sure that I want to hook this up yet, because I don't trust the circuit in that outlet. I don't think it's dedicated at all, and it has already lost a Denon for me, a couple of years ago (could have been Denon PSU, maybe, but it kept cutting on and off before it finally died, and then this replacement one does it every once in a while....not sure if it's just general power issues in the area, my house, or this thing). So, I'm somewhat nervous about plugging a 1k W system into the outlet, my LED (though that basically draws nothing, right?), and then eventual PS5. I do have an old Monster Cable 2 outlet "power brick cleaner thingy" that I was suckered into buying back in 2006, when I picked up the plasma. I used to plug my PS3 and TV into that, no problems
 
Last edited:

Aikouka

Lifer
Nov 27, 2001
30,383
912
126
Man, I have hated HDMI cables since the day they were born because of that, and all other problems with them. It seems like they are the least "grabby" cable ever designed, for all the ways that people make them, their interfaces, and the fact that the port as just never attached. At least design a clip of some sort! But I also tend ot have thick, rigid HDMI cables, so that always makes things worse.

I can live with the lack of latches (DisplayPort) or screws (DVI), but my biggest problem is that we keep playing this game of constantly expanding capability (i.e. increasing bandwidth) without ever touching the cable/connector. That's the reason why HDMI cables are getting thicker and can't run as far... the frequency is too high. It's just like why USB 2.0 can run further than USB 3.0.

Of course, there are solutions for this. I actually use Redmere cables for my standard HDMI 1.4 cabling. What's nice is that the cables are very thin, and I'm using one of them for the Switch with the Nakamichi sound bar right now. It works just fine, and the Switch only outputs at 1080p anyway! Unfortunately, I didn't see any shorter Redmere/active HDMI cables when I looked for them the other day. Of course, you can get them in longer runs, which is what I use in my living room for the in-wall setup, but I'd like to use them to reduce the cable bulk.

Amusingly enough, the new Display Stream Compression that's used in HDMI 2.1 is... pretty much exactly what Redmere/active cables do. The only difference is that the compression was handled in a mini-controller at each side of the cable and was powered by the HDMI port itself. (They're also uni-directional cables.)

Anyway, I'm glad you are pointing out these issues, because I didn't really do the research like I normally do with such purchases, because it is just the first part in a potentially long, maybe never completed process (PS5 almost for sure next year; and maybe replacing the TV within a year after that. either LG OLED or springing for whatever $2-3k USTL projector is the hotness at the time). I didn't even think to check if my TV is ARC (...and I didn't even know what ARC is until recently, because I have absolutely not been staying informed. My current system was basically assembled in 2006, lol...and now I have to unload these Polk R50 floorstanders, CS1 center, Denon, PS10 sub, and junky, busted plasticky wall hanging Polk rears that are even older...like, 1998 old. No joke).

If I remember correctly, the Nakamichi is only HDMI 2.0. I believe it does support eARC, which is a feature from HDMI 2.1 that has been backported to a good number of HDMI 2.0 implementations, but that's about it. The reason why I bring this up is that devices like the PS5 and an LG OLED TV will benefit from features only found in HDMI 2.1. For example, Variable Refresh Rate and Auto-Low Latency Mode are two good gaming-oriented features only found in HDMI 2.1 that will not be supported (passed through) by the Nakamichi. Albeit, I don't think the PS5 supports either right now. (The Xbox Series X does though.)

I still don't understand how the wireless signal works in these--is it just RF timing controlled by the soundbar to the remote units? Is it actually over WiFi (that seems like it would have some latency, no? I thought I read that somewhere and it struck me as black magic, and also probably unnecessary?)

I'm not sure. Wireless connectivity will always add a bit of extra latency, but how well it's implemented can greatly shave that down. It's sort of like how wireless mice went from being a non-starter for gaming to having the better implementations becoming accepted.

I like the systems with teh subs because I don't think you have the charging problem, right? Subs are powered into the wall, and the remote speakers are connected/powered via each sub, I think? Or is it just RCA to the sub...I haven't even read about it yet, and this giant box is sitting in my room.

Yes, each surround will connect to a subwoofer via a single cable. To be fair, the JBL could also be plugged in via Micro-USB cables to charge them away from the soundbar itself (cables not provided). Although, the JBL also had this weird thing where it would make all audio into surround, and it didn't do it very well. I'd be watching videos, and dialog, which should just be limited to front or center channels, kept leaking into the surrounds.

But I'm also not sure that I want to hook this up yet, because I don't trust the circuit in that outlet. I don't think it's dedicated at all, and it has already lost a Denon for me, a couple of years ago (could have been Denon PSU, maybe, but it kept cutting on and off before it finally died, and then this replacement one does it every once in a while....not sure if it's just general power issues in the area, my house, or this thing). So, I'm somewhat nervous about plugging a 1k W system into the outlet, my LED (though that basically draws nothing, right?), and then eventual PS5. I do have an old Monster Cable 2 outlet "power brick cleaner thingy" that I was suckered into buying back in 2006, when I picked up the plasma. I used to plug my PS3 and TV into that, no problems

I haven't used a dedicated circuit for any of my setups. My living room setup has plenty more than what you're describing, and it all runs off of the same circuit (same plug too). I do run everything through a UPS though. I pretty much never use the outlet itself for anything that has decent value and will be plugged in constantly. Do you have something like AFCI protection? When the Denon turns off, does the status LED start flashing red?

EDIT:

I've attached a photo of what the cables look like on the back of the Nakamichi.
 

Attachments

  • 4BBD6CED-76E7-4884-ACDD-5C0061A9DBFF.jpeg
    4BBD6CED-76E7-4884-ACDD-5C0061A9DBFF.jpeg
    230.9 KB · Views: 6

zinfamous

No Lifer
Jul 12, 2006
110,592
29,221
146
I haven't used a dedicated circuit for any of my setups. My living room setup has plenty more than what you're describing, and it all runs off of the same circuit (same plug too). I do run everything through a UPS though. I pretty much never use the outlet itself for anything that has decent value and will be plugged in constantly. Do you have something like AFCI protection? When the Denon turns off, does the status LED start flashing red?

EDIT:

I've attached a photo of what the cables look like on the back of the Nakamichi.

You mean when the Denon turns off on it's own? I haven't really noticed--it just switches off and pops right back on, usually. It might flash red, but I haven't really paid attention. I'll try to the next time it happens--if I haven't replaced everything by the new setup by then....though maybe it's best to test it somehow before plugging in brand new $1k gear? lol

I really should consider a UPS, now that you mention it. Usually, the bigger items get plugged into that Monster "power cleaner" thingy, that doesn't really offer any UPS afaik. This house is really old and I'm discovering new issues with the wiring every couple of months. I already have a plan to run at least two dedicated circuits anyway, to deal with various appliance issues throughout the house.

As for eARC and HDMI2.1 (I need to spend some time familiarizing myself with what is current, because this is all very confusing for me again), I *think* there is a firmware update for the dual sub Nakamichi systems, at least, that is supposed to allow such capabilities...I think? I recall something in one of the review videos I watched some time ago, but don't recall the details.