Looking at getting a 2004 Accord Coupe - anything I should know?

[ChaiBabbaChai]

Anything to check out when I'm test driving? I can't find any real issues other than the usual Honda air bag recall. If you know of a more reliable, safe ~$10k car with leather seats I'd be interested. Let me know.

Thank you!

I should mention I'd rather not buy a Honda or anything made after 1974, but I'm getting a loan so less than 10 years old and 100k miles is a must. Reliability and crash test safety is #1.

 

[Vette73]

Check to make the Trans has been taken care of, if its a Automatic. Look for leaky valve cover gaskets and also if you buy replace the PVC valce right away. Its a very cheap (less then $5 part) and easy to do.

 

[StageLeft]

Maxima?

If you can drive a stick shift I'd recommend it for a few reasons: 1) Car will be a bit cheaper up front, 2) Maintenance and/or ultimate repairs will be less. It's just a simpler transmission and of some relevance when looking at a used vehicle.

 

[Vette73]

Oh and for other cars to look at...

Altima
Impala, Malibu
Fusion

 

[Demo24]

I would seriously try and take as long a test drive as possible to determine how comfortable it is for you. For me it's ok at first, but much after 1hr it's just awful.

 

[darom]

I bought a used 2004 ex-l i4 5M leather accord and am pretty happy with it. After driving a v8 z28, this is a slow body moving vehicle which meets my needs. mpgs in the city are in 24-26 mpg range, on the freeway - 30-33 mpg. Going over Grapevine on I-5 here was a breeze in the 4th gear at 70 mph (rpms in 3000-3100 range).

The engine bay is not busy and easy to work on. Replacing brake pads was a simple task. In the winter the car heats up fast inside, the rear window defrost works great. The only accessory I added was the USA-spec IPOD hook-up to the stock stereo SAT input on the radio.

The front seat was comfortable during a 3 hour trip. The visibility is good, although the car does have two big blind spots in the back. The brakes engage smoothly at the beginning, but then grab immediately. This took a while to get used to. The glove compartment door rattles over bumps, I need to check it out. So does the passenger side safety belt against the pillar.

HTH.

 

[thomsbrain]

If you get a V6, I recommend only getting the 6-speed manual and avoid the automatic transmission. If you get a 4-cylinder, either transmission will be fine.

Other recalls and/or extended warranty issues: Windshield wiper motor cover to be replaced under recall, fusebox to be replaced under recall, Audio/HVAC display to be replaced under 100,000 mile warranty if it fails, and maybe a few other odds and ends. But overall these cars are pretty solid except for the V6's automatic transmission, which is not so solid.

Demo24, if an Accord is uncomfortable to you after an hour, maybe you should change your username to "princess&pea".

 

[SearchMaster]

Maxima?

If you can drive a stick shift I'd recommend it for a few reasons: 1) Car will be a bit cheaper up front, 2) Maintenance and/or ultimate repairs will be less. It's just a simpler transmission and of some relevance when looking at a used vehicle.

Heh - my elderly neighbor is looking for a new car and somehow has narrowed it down to a Maxima or Buick Lucerne (yeah, I know, strange cross-shop). She told me that she got scared of the Maxima last night because repairs were so expensive. I asked what she meant and she had read somebody saying on the internet that they require special $18/qt oil. I started laughing.

 

[evident]

great car, i have an 07 EX-L coupe 5AT and it's a great highway cruiser. i drive 70 miles a day.

 

[ChaiBabbaChai]

I bought a used 2004 ex-l i4 5M leather accord and am pretty happy with it. After driving a v8 z28, this is a slow body moving vehicle which meets my needs. mpgs in the city are in 24-26 mpg range, on the freeway - 30-33 mpg. Going over Grapevine on I-5 here was a breeze in the 4th gear at 70 mph (rpms in 3000-3100 range).

The engine bay is not busy and easy to work on. Replacing brake pads was a simple task. In the winter the car heats up fast inside, the rear window defrost works great. The only accessory I added was the USA-spec IPOD hook-up to the stock stereo SAT input on the radio.

The front seat was comfortable during a 3 hour trip. The visibility is good, although the car does have two big blind spots in the back. The brakes engage smoothly at the beginning, but then grab immediately. This took a while to get used to. The glove compartment door rattles over bumps, I need to check it out. So does the passenger side safety belt against the pillar.

HTH.

This most definitely helps! Thanks - we both have the similar concerns. I'm not looking for an autox car. 2 questions: i4 is inline 4? What's 5M? 5-speed manual? I'm an excellent shifter, but my first 2 cars were sticks and I'm over it. AT gives slightly better gas mileage and prevents from over revving. Rev's kill engines I haven't seen any like yours, but that's what I'm looking for in AT.

 

[ChaiBabbaChai]

If you get a V6, I recommend only getting the 6-speed manual and avoid the automatic transmission. If you get a 4-cylinder, either transmission will be fine.

Other recalls and/or extended warranty issues: Windshield wiper motor cover to be replaced under recall, fusebox to be replaced under recall, Audio/HVAC display to be replaced under 100,000 mile warranty if it fails, and maybe a few other odds and ends. But overall these cars are pretty solid except for the V6's automatic transmission, which is not so solid.

Demo24, if an Accord is uncomfortable to you after an hour, maybe you should change your username to "princess&pea".

Nice thanks for the tip

 

[LTC8K6]

NISSAN recommends Genuine NISSAN Ester Engine Oil available at your NISSAN dealer.

From the 2009 Maxima owner's manual. More like $10 a quart, though.

 

[DesiPower]

Get it tested and find out the level of engine leak and transmission. Try to see how the car starts first time in the morning - a overnight/cold engine start. Level of noise/vibration change when you turn on the AC. How uniform is the idling.
Any Car - Honda Toyota Chevy Ford that is in best condition today is the best buy.

I prefer to buy from - In order of preference -
individual who bough it brand new (some ppl keep record of all the maintainance... thats golden!!)
New car dealer - they got it as a trade in (if it was junk they would have sold it for auction - they kept it and tried to sell it thmselves means there is some potential in the car)
Used car dealer - never but from them, all junk, bought from auctions, they themselves dont know how good the car is...

Thought about make/model
Its a simple point A to point B car, nothing fancy about it - interior, exterior, power everything average, enough to keep you going. The features that distinguished this car were mileage and durability. Mileage is still there but the durability is significantly down, down to the level to Chevy or Ford (not below) after 80 - 90 k it will have the same issues with breaks suspension trany interior everything. It all depends on how carefully it was driven in the prior years. Please dont go for Brand power. BTW... some ppl do like the ride not too plush (Camry) not too hard (Maxima SE).

 

[Arkaign]

This most definitely helps! Thanks - we both have the similar concerns. I'm not looking for an autox car. 2 questions: i4 is inline 4? What's 5M? 5-speed manual? I'm an excellent shifter, but my first 2 cars were sticks and I'm over it. AT gives slightly better gas mileage and prevents from over revving. Rev's kill engines I haven't seen any like yours, but that's what I'm looking for in AT.

(1)- Rev's don't kill engines, as long as the motor has good oil in it, and you're not past the redline. Unless you're driving like an absolute maniac or shifting really sloppy, you're not going to screw up your motor even taking it to 5-6k frequently.

(2)- '04 Accord i4 most definitely gets better fuel economy with the 5-speed manual. There are some situations where an auto will actually get better fuel economy, but this is not one of them.

 

[ChaiBabbaChai]

(1)- Rev's don't kill engines, as long as the motor has good oil in it, and you're not past the redline. Unless you're driving like an absolute maniac or shifting really sloppy, you're not going to screw up your motor even taking it to 5-6k frequently.

(2)- '04 Accord i4 most definitely gets better fuel economy with the 5-speed manual. There are some situations where an auto will actually get better fuel economy, but this is not one of them.

You are absolutely wrong. Sounds like something you took straight out of the Ricer Bible.

Every revolution of the engine wears on the engine parts given the same operating conditions, fluids, maintenance... revs DO kill engines all else being equal.

The reason stock ATs always get better MPGs is that they shift at a lower RPM and quicker.

 

[darom]

2 questions: i4 is inline 4? What's 5M? 5-speed manual?

Yes, it is an inline 4 2.4L 5-speed manual. I couldn't pass on that vehicle, my mechanic had serviced it all its life and known the previous owner. Mine even came with a Honda 100k miles warranty with $0 deductible which I transferred to my name.

Good luck with your search, just be patient.

 

[Arkaign]

You are absolutely wrong. Sounds like something you took straight out of the Ricer Bible.

Every revolution of the engine wears on the engine parts given the same operating conditions, fluids, maintenance... revs DO kill engines all else being equal.

The reason stock ATs always get better MPGs is that they shift at a lower RPM and quicker.

Quoted for lulz.

Taking a motor to 5-6k at a reasonable level below redline is not a credible threat to motor longevity, and particularly true if you're not constantly driving like a maniac. There's simply not a reason to drive like that in each gear all the time. There's also no reason you can't shift earlier if that's the way you want to drive, auto vs. manual doesn't make a difference there.

and

'stock ATs always get better MPGs is that they shift at a lower RPM and quicker'?

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

ahhhh

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

allrighty man. So I guess every fuel economy study that shows that the VAST majority (including the i4 Honda Accords in question here) get better fuel economy with the MANUAL are just made up out of thin air?

What would make you think such stupid things? Auto trans are not all the same either. The most conventional type, colloquially known as the 'slushbox' does NOT shift faster than a manual, at least with a competent driver. They are also heavier and have higher efficiency/power losses through their operation due to the nature of their design. Do you know what a torque converter is? Also please note the WEIGHT difference between a typical 5-speed manual and a 4 or 5 speed slushbox.

Anyhow, the closest your claim can come to reality is with what actually aren't conventional automatic transmissions, but are computer-shifted manual transmissions, the most notable being the SMG series. Dual-clutch systems can be even more effective for quick shifts and efficiency.

 

[lurk3r]

You are absolutely wrong. Sounds like something you took straight out of the Ricer Bible.

Every revolution of the engine wears on the engine parts given the same operating conditions, fluids, maintenance... revs DO kill engines all else being equal.

The reason stock ATs always get better MPGs is that they shift at a lower RPM and quicker.

Wow full of fail, you didn't even check the stickers

http://www.mpgomatic.com/2007/10/16/honda-accord-gas-mileage-1978-2007/

Notice how the numbers beside the ones marked M are about 2-3 higher than the ones beside the ones marked A, guess what that means?

As for the RPM, that engine will run happily at 5-6k rpm for weeks continuously as long as the oil doesn't break down (you still have to change the oil at the equivalent of 5k miles and keep it inside the operating temps).

 

[DivideBYZero]

Revs don't kill Honda engines.

 

[LTC8K6]

Only recently have autos begun to get better mpg than manuals. The best modern autos now do get better mpg than manuals, but that hasn't been true for long.

 

[exar333]

Only recently have autos begun to get better mpg than manuals. The best modern autos now do get better mpg than manuals, but that hasn't been true for long.

Autos always had the "opportunity" to beat a MT in rated fuel efficiency, but car makers would gear them to get better performance. Now, some of these autos are being geared in a way that gimps the power to provide more MPGs. Remember that if you buy these ATs, you are doing so (generally) with a performance loss.

MTs should always have the ability to provide the best MPGs over a standard AT transmission, period. The driver contols the gears, and can choose to drive in a way to maximize MPGs, be that gearing or whatnot.

Remember that rated MPGs =! actual MPGs in all cases.

Edit: The opposite is true too; I can drive my MT "hard" and get less MPGs vs. the AT option, even if the rated MPGs for the MT are superior.

 

[Arkaign]

Autos always had the "opportunity" to beat a MT in rated fuel efficiency, but car makers would gear them to get better performance. Now, some of these autos are being geared in a way that gimps the power to provide more MPGs. Remember that if you buy these ATs, you are doing so (generally) with a performance loss.

MTs should always have the ability to provide the best MPGs over a standard AT transmission, period. The driver contols the gears, and can choose to drive in a way to maximize MPGs, be that gearing or whatnot.

Remember that rated MPGs =! actual MPGs in all cases.

Edit: The opposite is true too; I can drive my MT "hard" and get less MPGs vs. the AT option, even if the rated MPGs for the MT are superior.

Don't forget the weight difference as well, and the use of the torque converter.

Those two things make it virtually impossible for a slushbox to get equal/better fuel economy to a 5-speed manual without some trickery, as you describe above.

Overall you have a great summary here, and people should note that currently there are VERY rare exceptions to the MT > AT for fuel economy rule. The i4 Accord is certainly not one of them.

 

[RagingBITCH]

Don't forget the weight difference as well, and the use of the torque converter.

Those two things make it virtually impossible for a slushbox to get equal/better fuel economy to a 5-speed manual without some trickery, as you describe above.

Overall you have a great summary here, and people should note that currently there are VERY rare exceptions to the MT > AT for fuel economy rule. The i4 Accord is certainly not one of them.

I think the fact that he had to ask what an i4 is killed any credibility he had about knowing wtf he was talking about. Oh, and MT as well.

And in regards to the fuel economy - agreed. I have an 04 Accord i4 (what is that? ). You don't buy one if you truly care about power. It gets me from point A to B reliably. If one truly is worried about power they'd opt for the 6.

 

[ChaiBabbaChai]

I think the fact that he had to ask what an i4 is killed any credibility he had about knowing wtf he was talking about. Oh, and MT as well.

And in regards to the fuel economy - agreed. I have an 04 Accord i4 (what is that? ). You don't buy one if you truly care about power. It gets me from point A to B reliably. If one truly is worried about power they'd opt for the 6.

Sorry I don't sit on auto forums all day in order to be up to date on the shorthand. LOL. But, I did ask and simultaneously answer my own question. Just double checkin'. Every brand fanboy has a different shorthand. In my history it's mostly been M52 / E39 no I4 which is unnecessary because we're talking about Hondas, not Subarus. All that needs to be specified is whether it's 4 cylinder or 6 cylinder. Being a anti-Honda person (because of all the stereotypical moronic drivers) I was trying to not assume I knew anything. No need to be a cockface.

There are many examples of MPG figures that reflect ATs getting slightly better fuel economy, and vice versa. I DON'T CARE. IT'S 1 F'ING MPG! Most of the German cars I have looked at get better mileage with an AT.

So, now we know the truth is it doesn't matter if it's MT or AT. It depends how it's driven and on the gearing, but I don't give a rats ass about any of that crap. I started this thread to get more thoughts on a certain car.

And revs do kill engines IF an AT forum member doesn't get to it first.

 

[fbrdphreak]

Sorry I don't sit on auto forums all day in order to be up to date on the shorthand. LOL. But, I did ask and simultaneously answer my own question. Just double checkin'. Every brand fanboy has a different shorthand. In my history it's mostly been M52 / E39 no I4 which is unnecessary because we're talking about Hondas, not Subarus. All that needs to be specified is whether it's 4 cylinder or 6 cylinder. Being a anti-Honda person (because of all the stereotypical moronic drivers) I was trying to not assume I knew anything. No need to be a cockface.

There are many examples of MPG figures that reflect ATs getting slightly better fuel economy, and vice versa. I DON'T CARE. IT'S 1 F'ING MPG! Most of the German cars I have looked at get better mileage with an AT.

So, now we know the truth is it doesn't matter if it's MT or AT. It depends how it's driven and on the gearing, but I don't give a rats ass about any of that crap. I started this thread to get more thoughts on a certain car.

And revs do kill engines IF an AT forum member doesn't get to it first.

As long as we're clear that you "no longer caring" means that "you tried to talk out your ass to someone and got called on it," then we can get back to productively answering questions.

Reliability and crash test safety are your two top requirements? Look at Subaru. 2006+ have top safety ratings, 2005 Legacy has nearly top, and 2000-2005 were all excellent at their time (standards have evolved since then).

Oh, and revs don't kill engines. Extended over-revving or any consistent lack of proper maintenance is what kills engines. And of course the occasional factory defect. Get over it.