Logitech z2300

[Lean L]

The pod from my logitech z2300 does not work anymore. Does anyone have the wiring diagram for this set of speakers so that I may make a custom one? All I really need is to be able to use the subwoofer since I have a receiver at my disposal. Thanks

 

[mpilchfamily]

Open the unit up and have a look at the internals for yourself. No need for a diagram if its already dead and can be opened.

 

[CurseTheSky]

I've found Logitech is REALLY good about replacing dead / defective hardware. I just recently asked about a set of headphones that I've had for about a year, and couldn't find my original receipt. They agreed to replace them anyway.

As long as it's still in warranty, why not get it replaced?

 

[Lean L]

I've found Logitech is REALLY good about replacing dead / defective hardware. I just recently asked about a set of headphones that I've had for about a year, and couldn't find my original receipt. They agreed to replace them anyway.

As long as it's still in warranty, why not get it replaced?

I not only not have the receipt, the unit does not even have a sticker with the SKU on it. I'm pretty sure at least.

As for taking the unit apart. It is kind of tricky, there's screws on the heatsink that can't get undone and I can't pry it apart without taking those off.

 

[0roo0roo]

theres always a solution.
drill or screw tap
then replace with bigger screws or bolts lol
there are only so many wires for speakers, so if you take i apart, it should become clear.

 

[Lean L]

Update: Got tired of it taking up space so I tore the grill off (literally, it's in pieces now), and hard wired the driver to my receiver. I then used some foobar plugins to create a low passed channel. It works now and pretty well too.

Another ques, any1 have experience with driving a subwoofer with a receiver? The impedance matches, but it heats up the receiver more than normal speakers it seems.

 

[PM650]

How exactly are you driving this thing from your receiver? Assuming it's a standard single voice-coil driver, there is no (correct) way to do this w/o an amplified subwoofer channel (which few receivers have) - unless you were to use the extra/assignable channels of a 7.1 receiver for this. If it were dual voice-coil, you can buy passive crossovers that will allow you to connect the sub between the front speakers/receiver & load both channels evenly.

 

[Lean L]

I have three speakers and a 5 channel receiver. I'm using one of the rear channels to power the sub. My receiver has a 6 channel analog input, so I just plugged it into my pc and created a soft low pass filter.

Do you know anything about whether this is acceptable for the receiver? Like I said, it does seem to heat up more but idk what the heat threshold for receivers is.

 

[PM650]

What model receiver is it, in particular? Sometimes (with quite old models) the surround channels would be underpowered, compared to the mains (L/C/R) - this would limit how loud you could play it (check for matching power ratings of front & rear channels in the manual). 'Heat up' is very subjective, I really can't answer that - the most comfortable I would be with running an amp for extended periods would be hot enough so that I could touch the heatsink & not feel like I'm being burned (just below pain threshold). How that translates into what you feel atop the case is anyone’s guess...

When you said the impedances match - if the subwoofer is in the lowest range that the receiver can support, it will produce more heat than if it were driving a higher impedance (although the hotter amp will also be delivering more power into the load, so using a lower impedance speaker is equivalent to increasing the volume by 3dB).

Running a surround channel for this poses no problem, in all likelihood it's identical to the other 5 channels (at least for modern receivers), although bass-content tends to benefit more (in transients) from more power, which is why using a receiver for this may make for a weaker performance. If the sub is in the lower impedance range of the receiver, you can parallel-bridge the surrounds channels. Basically, you tie the inputs together (same source for both surrounds), and tie the output positives together at the woofer - this way, each channel will be (effectively) driving double the impedance of the woofer, which will reduce heating. Parallel bridging, however requires both surrounds channels to be level matched (exactly), or else bad things could happen (or perhaps just some protection activates, no way for me to know).

 

[Lean L]

thx for the response. The receiver is a yamaha 5450. http://www.yamaha.com/yec/products/...00177&CTID=5000400&ATRID=1010&DETYP=ATTRIBUTE

All the speakers are 8ohms although the exact rating for the sub is 7.8ohms lol.

Since the sub is already close to the highest supported impedance, I guess I can't bridge it. The power handling for the sub is 100w and it seems my receiver can do 105 with higher levels of distortion. Now I just have to finer tune the bass assuming that the heat issue is fine. It does start venting hot air but not burning hot.

 

[PM650]

thx for the response. The receiver is a yamaha 5450. http://www.yamaha.com/yec/products/...00177&CTID=5000400&ATRID=1010&DETYP=ATTRIBUTE

All the speakers are 8ohms although the exact rating for the sub is 7.8ohms lol.

Since the sub is already close to the highest supported impedance, I guess I can't bridge it. The power handling for the sub is 100w and it seems my receiver can do 105 with higher levels of distortion. Now I just have to finer tune the bass assuming that the heat issue is fine. It does start venting hot air but not burning hot.

It's not the upper limit that matters, it's the lower limit. The amplifier channel is basically a voltage source - the impedance of the load determines the current (ohms law), which affects the power output. Running a 16 ohm load will reduce power by approx. half, but the amplifier experiences no ill effects. The converse is generally not true; halving the load impedance will cause an increase in power to the load, as well as increasing amplifier heating (distortion is also affected) - an amp can only handle an impedance so low before something happens.

You could still parallel bridge the sub, but it's already in no danger of overloading a single amplifier channel, so there's no point. If the sub were 4 ohms, it would be worth doing, however. You could consider throwing a few fans on top of the thing if it's getting too warm