Is there anyway to get a Lite-On 24x to burn at SLOWER than 8x speed? When burning music to CDs just for paranoia's sake I like to slow it down to about 4x, but Nero 5.5 won't go any slower than 8x.
Lite-On 24x too fast (?)
- Thread starter Ryukumu
- Start date
Lite-On has smart burn or burn-proof or whatever they call their technology. I have this drive, and I have been able to burn several audipo CDs at 24x without a problem, even on lower rated media. You should not have a problem burning it at the higher speeds, but if your paranoia is that bad, I think you'll find that 8x will still work fine everytime. I have even burned CDs on un-rated media that I still had left over when I bought my Hi-Val 2x2x24 drive and had no problems at all. I fried that drive trying to upgrade the firmware with non-manufacturer firmware (Hi-Val didn't release an upgrade apparently, so I couldn't even use an 80 min CD, and it's getting hard to find the old 650MB CDs anymore, but that's beside the point...)
Anyway, i think you'll find that the Lite-ON will handle your burns at higher speeds without and problem. If you really need to go lower, I think Nero can do it, but I really don't know what you need to do to set it up. Of course, you can also try other CD-R burning software.
Anyway, i think you'll find that the Lite-ON will handle your burns at higher speeds without and problem. If you really need to go lower, I think Nero can do it, but I really don't know what you need to do to set it up. Of course, you can also try other CD-R burning software.
I have this exact same drive, the Lite-On 24x, and there's no way to change the speed to 4x I think, because of its SMART-BURN feature built-in. I used to be just like you. I didn't like the high speed burners because they tended to create CDs that had inconsistent burns. A lot of times, if you look at the burned side of fast burns, they tend to have these streak marks, which I didn't like. I was used to using my 4x burner that produced dependable and very consistent burns everytime. Well, times change and my paranoia is practically gone. An 8x or 16x audio burn is perfectly fine... there's no problems with the audio or anything. Just make sure you use good CD-R medium. =P
My Imations seem to work fine. Then again, my Imations are rated to 24x. I've also heard good things about TDK. i think as long as you use name-brand media, you'll probably be fine. I believe Imation offers a Lifetime guarantee on their disks, so I'm sure they are fine.
I've seen posts in the Hot Deals forum about disks that are rebranded "something" and they seems to be regarded highly, but I'm not that picky about my CD-Rs. Your burner is one of the higher rated burners on the market, so you should not have any problems.
I've seen posts in the Hot Deals forum about disks that are rebranded "something" and they seems to be regarded highly, but I'm not that picky about my CD-Rs. Your burner is one of the higher rated burners on the market, so you should not have any problems.
Yeah, this burner works great. I burn data files to CD at least twice a week and I've burned maybe ONE bad disk, and I think that was 'cuz one of the files I was burning was hideously corrupted... (didn't find that out till later)
In my experience, I think that the CD-R's made by Taiyo Yuden are the best. They are made in Japan, and rebranded by Fujifilm and Sony. They are generally more expensive, but worth it. Fujifilm and Sony use Taiyo Yuden if the label says Made in Japan.. if it says Made in Taiwan, they're not Taiyo Yuden's. These CD-R's have a thick protective coating, and a great reflective layer. The dye is green, and shows up great. BestBuy has a sale on them this week... its $12 in store, and there's a $7 mail in rebate ... for a pack of 50!
Yeah, Tie-a-Yo-yo-on-Dan...those are the ones. 
The first disks I ever bought were "Kodak digital science" disks, labeled with "INFOGUARD PROTECTION SYSTEM" The disk is gold with black writing, and were purchased in 98, more than likely. That's the copyright on the disk itself, and I either bought the burner & disks in 98 or 99. any idea about these? I bought a 50-pack spindle, but since my orignal burner was 2x and was SLOOOOWWW..., I didn't burn a whole lot of disks, which is why i still had a few blanks from the 40- or 50-pack spindle I bought back then. The recording surface is even gold, but has the rainbow effect when you tilt them in the light. No "made in" location listed at all. Were the good disks, okay disks, or do you even know?
what disks are best for data, and which are best for music? And...can you use CD-R audio CDs in a PC's drive for data? I figure while Ryukumu is learning, i might as well see if I can pick up a tidbit of knowledge myself. I usually buy whatever I get for a decent price, get as a gift, or is in-stock at sam's club, so making me a more knowledgeable consumer would be nice. TIA!
The first disks I ever bought were "Kodak digital science" disks, labeled with "INFOGUARD PROTECTION SYSTEM" The disk is gold with black writing, and were purchased in 98, more than likely. That's the copyright on the disk itself, and I either bought the burner & disks in 98 or 99. any idea about these? I bought a 50-pack spindle, but since my orignal burner was 2x and was SLOOOOWWW..., I didn't burn a whole lot of disks, which is why i still had a few blanks from the 40- or 50-pack spindle I bought back then. The recording surface is even gold, but has the rainbow effect when you tilt them in the light. No "made in" location listed at all. Were the good disks, okay disks, or do you even know?
what disks are best for data, and which are best for music? And...can you use CD-R audio CDs in a PC's drive for data? I figure while Ryukumu is learning, i might as well see if I can pick up a tidbit of knowledge myself. I usually buy whatever I get for a decent price, get as a gift, or is in-stock at sam's club, so making me a more knowledgeable consumer would be nice. TIA!
Actually, I wouldn't say I was 'learning'. I already knew a bunch of this stuff, it was just a paranoia issue with my new burner. ^_^
As far as what CDs to use for making audio CDs, I've found that regular data CDs do the job just nicely. I'm not sure what's different about the CD-Rs labeled to be used for audio, but I have had a lot of problems using these in the past. Wouldn't burn, or it would burn but the audio quality was terrible, or it would burn but wouldn't play. Yech. I've been burning music onto data CDs for years and it's worked just fine.
As far as what CDs to use for making audio CDs, I've found that regular data CDs do the job just nicely. I'm not sure what's different about the CD-Rs labeled to be used for audio, but I have had a lot of problems using these in the past. Wouldn't burn, or it would burn but the audio quality was terrible, or it would burn but wouldn't play. Yech. I've been burning music onto data CDs for years and it's worked just fine.
Physically, there is no difference whatsoever between an Audio CDR and a Data CDR. Audio CDR's were intended for home audio cd writers, not computers. These Audio CDR's have a subcode on them which home audio cd recorders check for before burning. That is why you cannot put a normal computer CDR into a home audio recorder. The purpose of the subcode in Audio CDR's is so that if you have a home audio recorder, you must purchase these so-called "Audio CDR's". In fact the only reason there are Audio CDR's is because of the requirement for a royalty for using home audio recorders. I know this sounds confusing but this is the main jist of it.
Some people with home audio recorders have been able to use compute CDR's by doing this: first inserting an Audio CD, and then manually pulling the tray out and putting in a computer CDR. That way, the home audio recorder thinks it is still writing to a Audio CD. There is no difference between Audio CDR's and computer CDR's .. except for the price. The extra price for a Audio CDR comes from the royalty fee that the home audio recorder/Audio CDR makers are required to pay. I forgot where the money goes, but it goes somewhere. =P
Some people with home audio recorders have been able to use compute CDR's by doing this: first inserting an Audio CD, and then manually pulling the tray out and putting in a computer CDR. That way, the home audio recorder thinks it is still writing to a Audio CD. There is no difference between Audio CDR's and computer CDR's .. except for the price. The extra price for a Audio CDR comes from the royalty fee that the home audio recorder/Audio CDR makers are required to pay. I forgot where the money goes, but it goes somewhere. =P
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