Liquid cool newb

[Sea Moose]

Hello,

I am about to upgrade my system and remove air fans and liquid cool.

Why am i doing this?


Cause my cpu runs too hot for my liking.
I want to get more performance out of my system.


I bought a 2nd hand Big Water 745. was a bargain. I just need to get a am2 mounting bracket and a new pump. :awe:.


I am thinking about getting a drinking fountain, pulling out the refrigeration gear and chilling the cooling lines for the pc.

<-- Refrigeration mechanic.

As long s the lines dont get too cool and condensate it should be a very cool system

I shall be printing off and reading the newb guide from this forum

Any comments or ideas is appreciated

 

[nitromullet]

In addition to the stickied guide, I'd suggest also reading this thread on coolant additives: http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?t=2055364

 

[Rubycon]

The compressor in a drinking fountain chiller is far too small for chilled water PC cooling. You should be looking at 1/3 hp compressor or even greater.

What are the PC specs?

You will still need fans as well unless you have a water cooled condenser.

Hello,

I am about to upgrade my system and remove air fans and liquid cool.

Why am i doing this?


Cause my cpu runs too hot for my liking.
I want to get more performance out of my system.


I bought a 2nd hand Big Water 745. was a bargain. I just need to get a am2 mounting bracket and a new pump. :awe:.


I am thinking about getting a drinking fountain, pulling out the refrigeration gear and chilling the cooling lines for the pc.

<-- Refrigeration mechanic.

As long s the lines dont get too cool and condensate it should be a very cool system

I shall be printing off and reading the newb guide from this forum

Any comments or ideas is appreciated

 

[Sea Moose]

The compressor in a drinking fountain chiller is far too small for chilled water PC cooling. You should be looking at 1/3 hp compressor or even greater.

What are the PC specs?

You will still need fans as well unless you have a water cooled condenser.

Well i can get a hold of an aquarium chiller. Then i would also need a pump and a container to transfer the heat between the chilled water loop and the pc cooling loop.

But this is something for way down the track.


I just want to get the basic water cooled loop up and running.


I shall also print and read the thread about coolants.

I was thinking about using distilled water

I shall take pictures

 

[cbn]

I shall take pictures

Sounds like a fun project, can't wait to see the pics.

I personally think adding chilled water to the equation would make things very interesting.

Would a high restriction CPU water block even be needed if the water is sub ambient?

 

[cbn]

http://www.aquariumguys.com/current-prime-chiller1.html

Here is a 1/3 horsepower aquarium chiller. Too bad this equipment isn't cheap.

P.S. What do you guys think about that flow rate? Isn't that a little high for a PC? (I am not planning on buying this. I am just curious.)

 

[Sea Moose]

 

[Meghan54]

I wouldn't count on the Tt pump lasting too long. One of a host of weaknesses with Tt's watercooling setups.

I'd go to the link below and start there:

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=70

 

[WoodButcher]

Well,,, don't expect much from that kit. Consider it a tool for learning and you''l get your money's worth. Don't mod your case to fit those parts as you'll be upgrading in the near future or you will write off watercooling as a waste. This is almost exactly how I got started. TT is renowned for failure in WC but they do work and are a good introduction for repair and troubleshooting. Have a care to not overtighten the fittings on the block and use no coolant mixture other than the TT or plain distilled, many other coolants will cause the acrylic top to fail and crack.
Have a look here for "chilled liquid cooling".
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=155

:awe:
megan beat me to it!

 

[Sea Moose]

The pump that has come with the kit is fked. I need to replace it, what do you guys suggest?

 

[Meghan54]

Probably a DDC 3.1 would suit you best, but other competent choices would be EK's pump or the CXP Pro.....

DDC 3.1 (Also goes by other names rebranded onto it, like the Swiftech 350/Koolance PMP-400)....
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835108063


EK DCP-400.....
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/ekwaek4012vd.html


Danger Den CPX-Pro.....
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=24272

 

[Rubycon]

Haha don't even fool with that Thermaltake junk. Just get a Megahalems or VX and call it a day. Your temps are high because the OEM cooler is lacking.

When it comes to aquarium chillers you have more than one option. You can keep untreated water in a cooler/ice chest and circulate this through the chiller. This water can wet a water-water exchanger and the side that wets your PC blocks gets treated. Alternatively you circulate the ice chest water through everything but treatment will cost more. Heat exchangers in aquarium chillers are titanium and rated for sea water so no corrosion concerns there.

Circulating the water directly from the chiller to the PC blocks is not what I would recommend as the chillers require higher flows and the result is short cycling the compressor. Small single phase hermetic compressors need a cool down period after shutting off due to their lack of starting torque as you know. It can be overcome with a hard start kit (capacitor) or fancy bypass valve (either should be a piece of cake to do for a refrigeration mechanic! ). Even still short cycling the unit is not generally a good idea.

Also remember that aquarium chillers are not designed to run with very low evaporator temps so sub ambient loaded core temps are not going to be possible with this setup without regassing and changing expansion valves/cap tubes, etc. (fun stuff!) Even still having a supply of water close to your dew point getting pumped into your CPU block is going to cool far better than just a standard water loop with a 3X radiator, etc. Speaking of dewpoint you may want to control your chilled water temperature with an enthalpy controller to avoid condensation on your supply line. It can be armaflex'd, however. Insulating the socket would not be necessary as again this would not be a subzero glycol system.

 

[aigomorla]

mmm u dont want to make a chiller out of a bigwater setup.
Mixing TT EQ with other stuff, is asking to fail hardcore later on.

if you know how to work with fridge lines, and braze your own copper tubing, a straight chiller might be a much better idea.

 

[Sea Moose]

Forget the chilled water idea


I have checked the pump and have repaired it, so no new pump

I have mount the 2 coils and i shall mount the pump later tonight

I will pick up some distilled water tomorrow and put on the cpu cooling block and shall install the lines.

I will flick the system on tomorrow night

 

[Sea Moose]

damnit got air in the lines. Any suggestions on how to bleed?

 

[Meghan54]

Time will remove the air from the loop and "deposit" it in the reservoir. Tilting the computer can help evacuate air from the rads.

 

[Sea Moose]

Hmmm the pump isnt fucked, the retard kid that originally owned this cooling kit kinked the copper pipe! (pic comming shortly)

Core temp : 35degrees celcius, from 53degrees celcius with fans.

Next i would like to get another radiator and cool the graphics card. Then i shall be fan free!


Pic of fucked rad

 

[Sea Moose]

did the toilet paper/overnight leak test


no leaks

 

[Sea Moose]

bump