Leaky clutch again...

[StageLeft]

2000 max one of the two clutch lines was leaking last year. I replaced it with OEM and an aftermarket slave cylinder "for good measure". From the get go it (the system; I have no idea what in particular) would leak very slowly. Clutch was fine but it would draw fluid from the master cylinder and I'd top it up every month or so. Recently it began getting soft. As a temporary stop gap I bled the slave (there is a slave and master bleed on this). That fixed it for a week. I bled the master tonight only (slave is a PITA to get at) and no difference.

I cannot see any sweating anywhere except MAYBE the slave cylinder. I think perhaps the replacement one was bad. I've bought another replacement one (not OEM because store is closed and they are expensive) and will put it in, doing nothing else.

What's strange though is that this is bringing in so much air, indicative of a large hole somewhere, but I cannot see any obvious sweating or leaking. I plan on replacing this and if the problem creeps up again I'll just have to replace more bits...

 

[jlee]

Hmm I know the MR2 guys say only to replace thermostats with Toyota OEM because aftermarket ones are meh - wonder if it's similar with Nissan slave cylinders?

 

[TonyH]

Have you checked the master to make sure that it isn't leaking. You'll usually find seepage under the dash where the rod from the clutch pedal goes through the floorboard. The carpet will wick up the brake fluid making it difficult to detect unless you look directly at the master under the dash.

 

[brblx]

if you're adding fluid, it's leaking somewhere. if not at the master, then at the slave, which may or may not be inside the bellhousing. if it's the type that's integrated into the throwout bearing, it could be soaking your clutch.

 

[TonyH]

if you're adding fluid, it's leaking somewhere. if not at the master, then at the slave, which may or may not be inside the bellhousing. if it's the type that's integrated into the throwout bearing, it could be soaking your clutch.

The slave should be externally mounted on the Maxima.

 

[StageLeft]

It is externally mounted on the max. I will check under the dash to see if it's the master.

Just checked, it looks dry on the inside and on the outside, so the master itself I'm quite sure is good. Its connection to the upper clutch line is hidden behind the brake booster or something, though, but I think that area is dry. I guess I'm going to have a go with the slave. Worse case I put it on there, problem is not solved, and I then have less stuff to fix or bring it in and they have less potential options

 

[slag]

You need to buy my 5th gen ss braided clutch line. Never used. I paid $35.00, yours for $20.00. I'm guessing your issue is under your dash as was mentioned earlier where the rod attaches to the clutch pedal. Where it comes through the firewall is a common area to leak.

Joe

 

[StageLeft]

I don't see any moisture there, though...I got up under the dash where the pedals are and the rod is connected to the master.

Come to think of it I've seen some yellow fluid under my tranny for several months. I wasn't sure if it was the original leak in the clutch system or tranny fluid. I guess I'll do the slave later and see what happens, though.

 

[slag]

sounds like you are well on your way to getting it fixed since its dry where it would be wet if it leaked from the master cylinder and you've seen yellow fluid under the car.

Hope you have a heated garage to work in

 

[StageLeft]

sounds like you are well on your way to getting it fixed since its dry where it would be wet if it leaked from the master cylinder and you've seen yellow fluid under the car.

Hope you have a heated garage to work in

Not heated but it is not as cold as it was two years ago when in the middle of a very cold spell I had to do a lot more work on the car. I got a space heater going. I think I will be ok this time, though

 

[StageLeft]

Well it's done, the new aftermarket is in place. I bled the clutch very well so it feels like new. I am not sure how long that will last. If it leaks again I'm done and will let stealership take a look at it. Bleeding it was a major PITA, it took a very long time of minute little air bubbles on each push. if the one-man vacuum bleeders were worth a sh*t they would make a job like that a great deal easier and quicker but I can't for the life of me find the correct size tube that snuggly fits onto bleed screws without pulling in air around the edges once pressure gets up.

 

[thedarkwolf]

Do you have an air compressor? That makes bleeding a snap. If you have an extra reservoir cap you just drill a tiny hole in it and shove an air gun into the hole and blow the fluid through the system with the bleed on the slave open. Just don't blow all the fluid out of the reservoir or you just blow more air into the system and have to start over. I've never had any luck with those one man vacuum bleeder deals either.

 

[StageLeft]

Do you have an air compressor? That makes bleeding a snap. If you have an extra reservoir cap you just drill a tiny hole in it and shove an air gun into the hole and blow the fluid through the system with the bleed on the slave open. Just don't blow all the fluid out of the reservoir or you just blow more air into the system and have to start over. I've never had any luck with those one man vacuum bleeder deals either.

Sh*t, that really works? I do have one. I think this one man vacuum bleeder deal really would work if I could figure out how to truly securely hook up the hose to the nipple. I've seen specific pump kits like what you're talking about to create positive pressure and push everything back down. Does this work well for brakes and clutches? Any drawbacks? I presume you'd need a very small amount of pressure.

I had a cheaper one-man bleeder kit--just a small jar with a couple tubes--I got from autozone once and recall it working fairly well but I've not used it since for some reason.

 

[thedarkwolf]

I haven't done brakes yet like that but the next time I do them and it will be soon I plan to do it that way. The slave twice first was bad, master, and a rubber section of line all failed one after the other on my miata's clutch sytem so I had lots of practice bleeding the clutch on it.

I don't know of any drawbacks unless you just go nuts with the pressure. I used 40psi and that was probably over kill. It went really quick. If you don't have a clear reservoir it would be hard to keep an eye on the fluid level.

 

[thedarkwolf]

holy crap

 

[thedarkwolf]

dp

 

[thedarkwolf]

dp

 

[StageLeft]

This is ringing bells for me. I was having a hell of a time bleeding on my maxima's brakes last year, I just could not get the air out well after a caliper swap. Ultimately I did with a log of "ok go in, ok go up" with my wife.

Segue, why do wives seem to HATE bleeding brakes so much?

Anyway, I recall reading about best ways to bleed and people said the best is with a positive pressure system but you needed a compressor. I didn't have one at the time. I think it is the best way, though. I recall perhaps this is how dealerships do it, too.

 

[StageLeft]

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-1297495.html

I'm sure that if I went direct to bimmerforums I could see the original thread with pics, but here is the guy describing the compressor approach.

 

[jlee]

This is ringing bells for me. I was having a hell of a time bleeding on my maxima's brakes last year, I just could not get the air out well after a caliper swap. Ultimately I did with a log of "ok go in, ok go up" with my wife.

Segue, why do wives seem to HATE bleeding brakes so much?

Anyway, I recall reading about best ways to bleed and people said the best is with a positive pressure system but you needed a compressor. I didn't have one at the time. I think it is the best way, though. I recall perhaps this is how dealerships do it, too.

I bought a vacuum bleeder when I replaced the clutch master cylinder in my MR2 - that thing is a godsend. Well worth the money..they're not too expensive, either.

 

[StageLeft]

I bought a vacuum bleeder when I replaced the clutch master cylinder in my MR2 - that thing is a godsend. Well worth the money..they're not too expensive, either.

You mean the hand pump ones? i got a harbor freight one. I know what you're thinking, but the unit is metal and holds the suction well. The problem-not its fault--is that the damn tubes do not hold onto bleeder nipples well, particularly when wet. Due to sizing differences on my car I have a multitude of tubes from lowes but only the harder plastic ones are ones I could find. I have yet to find a proper rubber tube that a) fits over a nipple and b) is secure enough not to suck in air from around the edges when the vacuum gets too high.

 

[StageLeft]

So far so good no additional looseness in it

 

[jlee]

You mean the hand pump ones? i got a harbor freight one. I know what you're thinking, but the unit is metal and holds the suction well. The problem-not its fault--is that the damn tubes do not hold onto bleeder nipples well, particularly when wet. Due to sizing differences on my car I have a multitude of tubes from lowes but only the harder plastic ones are ones I could find. I have yet to find a proper rubber tube that a) fits over a nipple and b) is secure enough not to suck in air from around the edges when the vacuum gets too high.

Yeah, a hand pump one. I didn't have any problem with it staying on, but I've only used it once.

So far so good no additional looseness in it

Win!

 

[The J]

You mean the hand pump ones? i got a harbor freight one. I know what you're thinking, but the unit is metal and holds the suction well. The problem-not its fault--is that the damn tubes do not hold onto bleeder nipples well, particularly when wet. Due to sizing differences on my car I have a multitude of tubes from lowes but only the harder plastic ones are ones I could find. I have yet to find a proper rubber tube that a) fits over a nipple and b) is secure enough not to suck in air from around the edges when the vacuum gets too high.

Could you put a small amount of grease around the outside of the bleeder nipple to act as a seal/gasket between the bleeder and the hose? I did this when I replaced my brake fluid and it seemed to work. I didn't suck up any grease or anything like that.

 

[exdeath]

So far so good no additional looseness in it

That's what she said.