KT7A chipset fan slows down and speeds up again!

MCS

Platinum Member
Feb 3, 2000
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It doesn't happen ALL the time but it goes through phases of slowing down for a second and then speeding back up again. It doesn't matter if the system is under load or not. What do you think? Replace it? Anybody else had their fan do this?

Thanks
 

MrBond

Diamond Member
Feb 5, 2000
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Mine does that too, but its rare. I've wondered about it, but my temp is good, so I'm not too worried
 

MCS

Platinum Member
Feb 3, 2000
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Yes I notice it doing one day and then not again for a few days, it's strange.
 

LarryDan

Junior Member
Jun 19, 2001
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The liklihood is that it is in the initial stages of a condition that was very prevalant on the KT7 & KT7-R. The problem is that they used a fan with sleeve bearings that runs dry after a very short while. Some people complained of this as an "out of box" situation even. After the intermittent slowing down, it will start to make a rather loud noise, and eventually freeze up entirely. The chipset will not be damaged, but will run hot, especially if you're o/c-ing the FSB.

All is not lost though. You can fix it yourself, and the fix is easy, and long-lasting! It's just a matter of partially removing the fan hub label, and applying a little light electric motor oil (3-in-1 is good) to the fan shaft.

Standard disclaimer: If you blow your computer up, or fry yourself, I am not resposible! Okay, that done...

Materials/Tools needed:
- Light Electric Motor Oil (3-in-One is good) to re-lube the fan shaft
- Rubber Cement to glue the fan hub label back down after you pry it up to apply the oil
- Small x-cut screwdriver to remove the fan mounting screws
- Small needlenose pliers to remove the fan's electrical lead from the hooded fan header connector on the mobo
- Small flat head screwdriver to pry the fan hub label up
- Q-tips (maybe) to remove any excess oil before you glue the label back on (if you get too carried away)

1. (With computer shut-down, and unplugged of course) unplug the fan electical lead from the fan header on the mobo. (Be careful; it's a hooded connector, so don't try to pull the entire connector off the mobo! Just pull the inner plastic part out of the hood it is inside of. Use the raised plastic edge to grab the inner connector portion.)
2. Notice the fan's orientation (so you can screw it back on correctly later), remove the four mounting screws, and remove the fan.
3. Identify the side of the fan with the label on the fan hub.
4. Very carefully, pry a portion of the label up; don't remove the label entirely, just pry enough of it to gain access to the fan hub. By not removing it, you will have an easier time of it later when you glue the label back down. If you look closely, there is a little place under one edge of the label where you can get your screwdriver in to start prying up the label. Look closely, and you'll see it in one little spot around the underside edge of the fan label.
5. Apply some oil to the tip of the fan shaft, which is just barely visible in the center of the fan hub. Go sparingly with the oil! Too much, and the fan will throw it out on the mobo, which could be very bad news later (short circuits, etc.). On the other hand you do need more than one or two small drops! For fear of too much, I didn't put enough the first time, and the noise returned after a day or two. When I went back, and used more oil, the sound has now been completely gone for at least 4 months, and no speed-ups or slow-downs.
6. After applying two samll drops of oil, spin the fan blades manually, turn the fan over, and spin it some more to completely distribute the oil along the shaft and bearings. At this point you can repeat with a little more oil and spinning the blades and turning the fan over again, as long as you don't apply too much oil. If you have any doubts, err on the too little side. Applying oil is so easy to do, you can always return and lube so more later.
7. Wipe off any excess oil!
8. Apply a little rubber cement to the underside of the label, press it down, wipe off any excess rubber cement, and apply a little pressure to the fan label until the cement is dry (20 seconds or so).
9. Remembering the original orientation of the fan, screw it back on (don't under or over-tighten the screws).
10. Plug the fan's electrical supply lead to the hooded fan header on the mobo.
11. Button up the case, and you're done.

Hope this helps. If I missed something, or it's not clear, just post, and I'll do my best to answer.
 

MCS

Platinum Member
Feb 3, 2000
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Excellent my friend! What a thorough and informative post! With detail like that my girlfriend could probably perform this operation :)

Thanks
 

LarryDan

Junior Member
Jun 19, 2001
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You're welcome MCS. Thanks for your comments.

It's actually easier than I made it sound when you get right down to it. The only tricky part is in realizing the electrical lead is plugged into a "hooded" fan header connector, and not a conventional, "just two pins sticking up" type. I don't know what they were thinking! I darned near ripped the thing off the mobo because it wasn't obvious, and no one warned me. They just said "disconnect it."

So the fix is easy and cheap. And if you can hear it speeding up and slowing down already, the "howling" noise (when the fan bearings go completely dry) is not far away. It's up to you, but you could wait until you hear the noise. Of course if you're overclocking the FSB, that Northbridge chipset will be getting pretty hot when the fan slows down, and could be the source of crashes.

Best of luck!
 

loosbrew

Golden Member
Oct 30, 2000
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my abit fan just died on me th other day. i replaced it with an EBM fan of equal size, but with sooo much greater speeds in unbelieable. i wish i could OC the fsb but im stuck with a kt133 :)

loosbrew
 

ginky4

Member
Oct 11, 2000
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Where did you get the EBM fan from? Did it mount right on top of the existing heat sink and did it have 4 screws just like the original? Is is quiet? Let me know.
 

loosbrew

Golden Member
Oct 30, 2000
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i used to work for EBM, in CT. i used the existing screws from the original abit fan, but ihad to mod the EBM fan, drill into the scre hole slightly to allow the screws to fall into place, or else they would nt have been long enough. the only i need to do now, is cut the plus from the abit fan and attach it to the EBM fan, currently im using a plug that doesnt quite fit the header.

loosbrew
 

MCS

Platinum Member
Feb 3, 2000
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LarryDan

Yep know about that fan connector I have already removed the entire heatsink/fan before to replace the goop Abit put underneath with some Arctic Silver. Thanks again.
 

LarryDan

Junior Member
Jun 19, 2001
7
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MCS:
I was typing this while you entered your last reply, and the connector explanation was intended for the other guys.


IMHO, it was easier and cheaper just to oil the old fan, assuming you are happy with it's cfm output (which is probably only adequate for only normal to slightly overclocked FSB speeds). At least it was already paid for, quiet (when properly oiled), and you didn't have to make any modifications to the mounting screws or the electrical connection to the mobo fan header. (The KT7 family has a 2-pin connector on the mobo near the North Bridge, and most replacement fans have 3-pin connectors. Of course you could always use one of the other 4 fan header connectors on the mobo, and 3 to 4-pin adapters to use a PSU connection.) Lots of choices.

If you do want to up the cooler's performance, a lot of people have been replacing the standard cooler with the Thermaltake Blue Orb (Blorb). It has much better performance, and can be bought for $12 USD plus shipping from a lot of places. It too has a 3-pin connector, and you have to cut-off the end of the holes in the metal mounting tabs of the heatsink to make an elongated slot out of the holes to fit a slightly larger hole spacing. In addition to elongating the holes, you have to use small washers on top of the slots, and then the mounting pins that come with the Blorb can be used to retain it. Others have chosen to use thermal glue to glue it to the chipset instead. The other issue it that the Abit chipset cooler is also glued on, and you might have to "pop" it off with a razor blade first.

That's why I just took the easy way out, and oiled the original Abit (Young Lin Tech Co.) fan. Before I "fixed" it, it was howling like a banshee, and I thought for sure it was dying. Since I put the correct amount of oil on, it has performed without any problems for almost a half year now. But if you prefer to give it the heave and get a new one, just be aware of the 2-pin electrical connector of the fan header the current fan is plugged into. It's not a big deal really. If you just want to replace the fan, and not the heatsink as well, any 40 mm fan will do; but when I went shopping, I noticed a BIG difference in cfm output that varied from 4 cfm to the 15 of the Blorb.

Good luck whichever way you decide to go!