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Kitchen Floor Vacu-Form

Kreon

Golden Member
I'm building a kitchen floor vacu-form
Much like this one
However, not exactly, as I got my plans out of a magazine called Make, but the other article was online in full
Website can be found here

Basically my question arises as to what type of plastic I should use
The article suggests "Polystyrene, or just about any other thermoplastic material"
It also suggests .030" for a thickness

Is this basically what they describe?

Is there anything better I can use?

Thanks


Update
Tried it finally tonight...
Failed miserably...

I can't figure out what went wrong. Something obviously did. The formed object wasn't clear at all. It was barely noticable...

I think it was either a suction or heat issue
Probably a combination...

Any insights would be helpful
 
i suggest not using a thermoset, like acrylic.
i just mention that because i tried it once, having
NOT read the instructions.

for a "first pull", what's wrong with polystyrene ?

household sources of material -

* the 2.5 gallon bottled water containers. you can
get a piece of plastic suitable for vacuum-forming,
by cutting the 2 long faces + the short face that
does not have the spigot. (i'm pretty sure that
container is blow-molded, which is similar to vacuum-
forming).
* the plastic packages that DDR & DDR2 memory
frequently come packaged in, you can salvage a
piece about 5" x 7" from that.

good luck. one option is to build a vacuum chamber,
then to use that vacuum to pull the warm plastic into
shape. doing it this way places a lot less demand on
the vacuum pump.

if you don't already have the vacuum pump, i suggest
Industrial Liquidators in San Diego (i bought a vacuum
pump from them in about 2001, works good), or maybe -
* Halted Specialties
* Alltronics
* Wierd Stuff Warehouse
those last 3 are in Northern California.
 
Originally posted by: wwswimming
i suggest not using a thermoset, like acrylic.
i just mention that because i tried it once, having
NOT read the instructions.

for a "first pull", what's wrong with polystyrene ?

household sources of material -

* the 2.5 gallon bottled water containers. you can
get a piece of plastic suitable for vacuum-forming,
by cutting the 2 long faces + the short face that
does not have the spigot. (i'm pretty sure that
container is blow-molded, which is similar to vacuum-
forming).
* the plastic packages that DDR & DDR2 memory
frequently come packaged in, you can salvage a
piece about 5" x 7" from that.

good luck. one option is to build a vacuum chamber,
then to use that vacuum to pull the warm plastic into
shape. doing it this way places a lot less demand on
the vacuum pump.

if you don't already have the vacuum pump, i suggest
Industrial Liquidators in San Diego (i bought a vacuum
pump from them in about 2001, works good), or maybe -
* Halted Specialties
* Alltronics
* Wierd Stuff Warehouse
those last 3 are in Northern California.

I thought of using something like that, but wasn't sure if it'd work
I might as well try that

As to the vaccum chamber, that is something I'm doing.
Instead of using the flange like the linked instructions, I have an airtight (in theory) box, with pegboard on the top where the mold goes.
You set the mold on teh pegboard, and go to it.

The only issue I've had is that when I tested it using a sheet of oaktag, the places where the holes were seemed to suction down.

Will this happen with the polystyrene?

Also, you seem like you've done this before, so I'll ask a preference question
Would you suggest using a wood frame or the aluminum frame for the plastic heating mount?

Where can I get a sheet of polystyrene if this works?
Think I can order it through the Ace Hardware I work at?
Edit: found it, same company.
A lot cheaper too, I like that 🙂
Link to polystyrene sheet

I want to try to make a copy of the old vacu-form plastic models eventually
maybe make a mask of my face to...

Thanks wwswimming
 
the best engineers i have worked with were the
"hands-on" guys.

just saying, glad to see you're going for it.

for the face mask, i would use plaster of paris to
make the first negative impression of your face.
to explain the terminology, if you poured wax
into the plaster of paris impression, and were
able to somehow extract the wax piece, that piece
would be a "positive" - it would look like you.

i suggest having a friend with some tools - like
a hammer - to help get your face out of the
plaster of paris, in case you get stuck. a cool-
headed friend with good aim.

basically, rig a bucket with an airtube, pour in
the wet plaster of paris until it's about an inch
below the top of the air-tube, do the proverbial
muff-dive so that part of your face is embedded
in the plaster of paris, wait 3 minutes - the extra
PoP in a bucket on the side will get hard about the
same time if it's a comparable thickness. when
the PoP is hard, you've made your impression.

you would need to create a way to keep the PoP
away from your teeth and lips. it has the potential
to BE LIKE SUPER-GLUE - you wouldn't plunge your
face into some drying super-glue. if it gets around
your teeth, you could end up with a choice between
suffocating and ripping out a few teeth.

one note - there are several ways to hurt yourself
doing this.
* PoP is Calcium Carbonate. in small amounts,
good for the plants. BUT the dust is NOT good to
breathe.
* the PoP heats up enough that you could burn
yourself. i suggest using a layer of cloth and a layer
of plastic (with a hole in them, for the breathing tube) -
the layer of plastic goes against the PoP, the cloth
(terry cloth, like an old gym towel) goes against
your face
* let's say a normal jello mold has "positive draft".
if it had negative draft, it would be hard to break the
jello out of the mold. it would break apart in the process
of extracting it from the mold. if you stick your face in
past a certain point, it might be like when you get a mold
for a mouthpiece at the dentist and they're pulling hard
and you start wondering if it's going to take a few teeth
with it - except, much worse.

please don't create a "call the fire department" situation.
take it a step at a time. don't try & scrimp on PoP.

can we see some pictures ? 🙂

- - -

Will this happen with the polystyrene?

* depends how hot you have it. that's the
"art" part of it. yes, it could create a "hell-raiser"
look (you know that movie hell-raiser ?)

Also, you seem like you've done this before, so I'll ask a preference question
Would you suggest using a wood frame or the aluminum frame for the plastic heating mount?

* i would use wood, but just because i'm good with
wood (for a half-blind person).

hmm ... wood & heating in the same sentence ... wood
can burn ... need to see pictures.

Where can I get a sheet of polystyrene if this works?
Think I can order it through the Ace Hardware I work at?

* it has been a while. most industrial areas have one or
more large plastics suppliers where its like going to Ross
Dress for Less except ... all plastics, including my favorite,
Torlon (polyamideimide, engineering superplastic, they made
a car engine out of it as a demo, good to 450+ F, not
recommending it, just going off on a tangent.)

and there's always Tap Plastics.
http://www.tapplastics.com/

it sounds like you're developing some enthusiasm for
this kind of work. Ace hardware is expensive for more
than a small sheet of most engineering materials.
there's got to be an industrial supplier available to you.

one other option is to melt down a bunch of polystyrene
objects, and then pour them on a flat sheet of, for example,
Teflon (4 feet by 4 feet), or concrete covered with aluminum
foil. again, i'm exactly suggesting that, just pointing out options.

i have a few scars on my body (well, maybe several); my
stepfather left part of his finger inside the Ford factory. the
point being, if you're playing with a vacuum and Plaster of Paris,
it's a Lot like a martial art, an extreme sport, like handling a
loaded gun. you're using the Forces of Nature to shape
something interesting; make sure you don't get caught in
the cross-fire.

there's a glass artist in Seattle missing an eye who i think
would agree with this advice.

please proceed VERY cautiously.

P.S. regarding my own experience - i have a lot of experience
with the "industrial arts", including Plaster of Paris, but i have
never done a face mold.

one option is to get the head off a mannequin dummy, or
make a head using a plastic Halloween mask and some filler
material, to double, triple, and quadruple check your procedure
before doing it live.

might be fun if your assistant had a video camera, this could
be a classic Youtube video.

P.S. #2 before you do the Live mold, where you use your
own flesh, it would be good to watch a professional in action.
maybe you could dig up a local artist who has done this
kind of work.

P.S. #3 if you do work like this in your living place, an
old girlfriend might walk in and say, "i could never live here".
it's very easy to get so caught up in the excitement of making
stuff that you forget about the human factors of your own
living space.

P.S. #4 if you live in rented space, this kind of work has the
potential to guarantee that you will not get your rent deposit
back.
 
Well, I was going to use clay to make a negative of my face, in a few peices,
Then connect them together.

This seems a lot safer than shoving my face into a pile of PoP
I've had bad experiences (it gets hot, burned my hand in it when I was young)

I don't know about industrial suppliers, there is a pretty big machining industry around me
Ace is alsoa relative term for me. I work at one, so it's cheaper anyways
We also don't get our building supplies (lumber, insolation etc) through Ace, but a different retailer
I'll be checking that price tomorrow

Also, I'd be doing as much as I could in teh basement, so a low nasty factor

And the wood shouldn't burn in an oven. Paper's ignition point is 415 F right?
Wood is higher than that, and the directions I found said to use ~315
I actually want to say that's about the temp of the kiln they dry lumber in, but I'm not sure

Thanks for helping me
 
Originally posted by: Kreon
it gets hot, burned my hand in it when I was young

talk about hands-on experience !

I don't know about industrial suppliers, there is a pretty big machining industry around me. Ace is alsoa relative term for me. I work at one, so it's cheaper anyways
We also don't get our building supplies (lumber, insolation etc) through Ace, but a different retailer. I'll be checking that price tomorrow

Also, I'd be doing as much as I could in teh basement, so a low nasty factor

And the wood shouldn't burn in an oven. Paper's ignition point is 415 F right?

don't know. tried a quick search.
this guy seems to agree -
http://answers.yahoo.com/quest...=20070908172856AAVnB7S

http://pyromaniac.com/
was no help whatsoever.

Thanks for helping me

no prob., i like making stuff.

 
Forgot to mention about pics

I'll try to post, provided I can get a camera...
BF is coming up, so I'll aim for then
 
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