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Killed my 1700+ T-Bred B trying to unlock!

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Originally posted by: HaVoC
weird thing is, it ALWYAS shows up as an athlon 1400MHz no matter what mult i set it to.....however...in windows via wcpuid its using the correct mult as determined by Soulkeeper
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That must be a BIOS issue. The motherboard is taking the correct mults, but the BIOS does not display it correctly. (can't read the 5-bit multiplier code?) Try upgrading the BIOS. Otherwise you will just have to ignore it and enjoy your overclocked performance.
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yeah i know its the bios messin it up, but i dont really care lol
its already the latest bios (1011)
 
>My fsb is maxed at about 160ish, so depending on my cpu overclock I will need access to 12.5, 13, 13.5, possibly 14.
>Or will this mod just give my 13X and up?
Yes, it is hard moded to 13x and over. 12.5 is a lower multilier that needs the 5th L3 bridge closed. When I set my BIOS to "13 and over" it actually sets it to 12.5 (= 20).

But what would be the 13, 13.5, 14, and 14.5 multipliers produce a "no boot". This is what you get.


5 - no boot
5.5 - no boot
6 - no boot
6.5 - no boot
7 - 15
7.5 - 22
8 - 16
8.5 - 16.5
9 - 17
9.5 - 18
10 - 23
10.5 - 24
11 - no boot
11.5 - 19
12 - no boot
12.5 - 20
 
That's exactly what I ended up with on my 1700+. I put it on 13X and up and it runs 15 x 140 for 2100MHz at 1.78v on my KG7.
 
Originally posted by: HaVoC
I wasn't satisfied with the 12.5 max multiplier on my T-bred "B" core. I have an Epox 8RDA+ and apparently this NForce2 mobo only unlocks to the maximum spec'd multiplier which is 12.5 on my chip. Since my Crucial PC2100 can't do 166 Mhz (keeping it at 150), my quest for 2+ GHz remained unfulfilled.

So, I tried to unlock it by cutting the 5th L3 bridge. (since that is what will trick the mobo to giving me 13.0 and higher mults). I used a utility knife razor blade and carefully scored between the two bridge dots. Unfortunately, when I put the chip back in and powered up, the computer wouldn't boot! After I calmed down a bit, the next day I went to Fry's and bought a new 2100+ B chip. I put it in and luckily the computer booted once I reset the CMOS. I am able to achieve a decent overclock with this new chip (150 x 12.5 = 2025 Mhz) but it sucks that I am out the $52 bucks for the 1700+ that is dead. I guess I must have scored too deeply. Oh well, I guess it could be worse. Maybe some brave soul will buy the chip for $5 and try to fix it. 😀

Since the Fry's chip is $120 including TX sales tax, I'm going to take it back. I've just ordered a 2100+ B core from NewEgg which will be my replacement CPU. I should have just bought the 2100+ to begin with...but didn't know I would run into the 12.5 multiplier ceiling. Stay tuned for my updated overclocking results later this week.
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For this, you deserve a cookie!

/me gives havoc a cookie

😎
 
I just bought a 1700+ that I want to overclock with my MSI6380E (Kt3 ultra2). I tried using the motherboard unlock trick posted above with a conductive pen, but it doesn't seem to have done anything.

All of the L1 and L3 bridges on my chip are OPEN right now, and I have access to 6-12.5 through the bios. I can also access 14 and 15, but they remap to 5 and 5.5 respectivly.

What bridges do I have to close to get 13+?
 
you've got that the other way aroound
L1's are closed if you can select mults 6-12.5

the connection, from waht i can see, is made under a layer or two of greenstuff

 
ehh thats how mine were, and i swaer i could see some connects under a layer of green
look a bit more closely

anywho, thats how ine were as well....as they were also unlocked...
 
Did you say T-Bred B? I didnt know they released those I thought 2100+ was the slowest speed T-Bred B? maybe yours is an A I have one and it came factory unlocked.
 
not too deep from my experience
i used a flat razor blade thingy, and i could feel "ridges" and thats when i decided to stop

i also used inspection (my eyes under a bright light) and it appeared taht i had cut all the bridges

make sure you take nice even strokes...

for a comparison, look at the ones alredy cut from the factory
i knw its hard to tell, but its better than going in blind (atleast itwas for me heh)
 
K, I think I figured out what my problem was.
I still had the motherboard hack on. Once I cut the connection there, I had 15 and up.


😛 Of course, I couldn't actually boot at 15x133, so I connected the motherboard pins back up, and am running at 12x166 now. 🙂
 
Actually.. I think it must be a CPU limitation, since I found a few reviews that state that this motherboard can access at least 1.825V. I'm updating hte BIOS now, and maybe that'll open them up for me. 😉

Edit:
Bios flash didn't do much for me other than having the motherboard report the CPU as a 2400+ instead of 1992MHz
 
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