- Jun 28, 2002
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Like pretend if I'm using Pennzoil 10W30 but then I decide I wanna use Motoroil 10W40, would that be fine or would that hurt the engine since it's use to the Pennzoil oil?
Three months ago I decided to go with Mobile 1 in my +20yrs old ACVW. I was using 20W40 Dyno Lube with no problems. The synthetic is now leaking out of every over stressed gasket that it can find.Originally posted by: Eli
Wait...
I misread your post. I thought it said 10W30 both times.
The answer is........ maybe.
Why do you want to swith to 10W40? What kind of car is it? How many miles? Where do you live?
All of those things matter when determining whether a viscosity change is safe or not.
Originally posted by: BCYL
Just make sure you use the same rating motor oil... Like in your example you stick with 10W30...
You could always use a heavier synthetic.Originally posted by: FlashG
Three months ago I decided to go with Mobile 1 in my +20yrs old ACVW. I was using 20W40 Dyno Lube with no problems. The synthetic is now leaking out of every over stressed gasket that it can find.Originally posted by: Eli
Wait...
I misread your post. I thought it said 10W30 both times.
The answer is........ maybe.
Why do you want to swith to 10W40? What kind of car is it? How many miles? Where do you live?
All of those things matter when determining whether a viscosity change is safe or not.
Moral? Dont change oil viscosity if it ain't broke.
True, but now it's got a fine stream of pure oil trailing the car. It's the two oil cooler o-ring gaskes. No biggie to fix but the leak does scare the he!! out of me.Originally posted by: Eli
You could always use a heavier synthetic.Originally posted by: FlashG
Three months ago I decided to go with Mobile 1 in my +20yrs old ACVW. I was using 20W40 Dyno Lube with no problems. The synthetic is now leaking out of every over stressed gasket that it can find.Originally posted by: Eli
Wait...
I misread your post. I thought it said 10W30 both times.
The answer is........ maybe.
Why do you want to swith to 10W40? What kind of car is it? How many miles? Where do you live?
All of those things matter when determining whether a viscosity change is safe or not.
Moral? Dont change oil viscosity if it ain't broke.
But synthetic is always going to leak more, it is just more fluid.
Also..... It's not a bad thing that the oil is leaking in one sense... it also means that it is circulating in the engine much better... it's the engines fault the oil is leaking, not the oil's.
Originally posted by: KhoiFather
It's a 98 Toyota Corolla with about 59000 Miles, and I drive about 65-70 miles a day. So I need something strong, help me out!
If you have to use a higher viscosity than the manual recommends, the engine needs to be fixed, period.Originally posted by: FlashG
True, but now it's got a fine stream of pure oil trailing the car. It's the two oil cooler o-ring gaskes. No biggie to fix but the leak does scare the he!! out of me.Originally posted by: Eli
You could always use a heavier synthetic.Originally posted by: FlashG
Three months ago I decided to go with Mobile 1 in my +20yrs old ACVW. I was using 20W40 Dyno Lube with no problems. The synthetic is now leaking out of every over stressed gasket that it can find.Originally posted by: Eli
Wait...
I misread your post. I thought it said 10W30 both times.
The answer is........ maybe.
Why do you want to swith to 10W40? What kind of car is it? How many miles? Where do you live?
All of those things matter when determining whether a viscosity change is safe or not.
Moral? Dont change oil viscosity if it ain't broke.
But synthetic is always going to leak more, it is just more fluid.
Also..... It's not a bad thing that the oil is leaking in one sense... it also means that it is circulating in the engine much better... it's the engines fault the oil is leaking, not the oil's.
After I fix the leaks I am going to try a higher grade. I hope it works cause I truly love Mobile 1. I use it in all my other cars and small gas motors (mower & pressure cleaner)
Actually, some brands are better. I dislike the paraffin-based oils like Pennzoil and Quakerstate because there's a lot of buzz about them having problems with build-up. I tend to prefer Castrol GTX for regular oil and Mobil 1 for synthetic. I know that there are a lot of people who prefer AMSOil, but I have some issues with AMSOil. First of all, I find their advertising to be deliberately misleading and I also know that the minimal performance advantage of AMSOil does not justify the insane price.Originally posted by: Vic
Brand is unimportant. Weight and rating are important and should be kept the same and/or according to your owners manual.
Check out Schaeffer's Micron Moly line of oils... Supposedly enhances durability of the engine.Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
Actually, some brands are better. I dislike the paraffin-based oils like Pennzoil and Quakerstate because there's a lot of buzz about them having problems with build-up. I tend to prefer Castrol GTX for regular oil and Mobil 1 for synthetic. I know that there are a lot of people who prefer AMSOil, but I have some issues with AMSOil. First of all, I find their advertising to be deliberately misleading and I also know that the minimal performance advantage of AMSOil does not justify the insane price.Originally posted by: Vic
Brand is unimportant. Weight and rating are important and should be kept the same and/or according to your owners manual.
ZV
Depends. Does the manual give 15W50 as an alternative for high-heat conditions? The manual should show the acceptable temperature ranges for several viscosities. For a car that normally uses 5W30, I can't imagine 15W50 being a good idea in temperatures below about 60 degrees.Originally posted by: Spikesoldier
ok what about 15w-50 in a 5w-30 car?
vehicle is 1999 mazda protege 1.8L dohc and location is texas
I'll use a "Mr. Moly" additive every couple oil changes in my air-cooled car and motorcycle. It reduces oil temperatures (and head temperatures) significantly. Molybdenum Disulfide additives are pretty much the only safe additives.Originally posted by: Howard
Check out Schaeffer's Micron Moly line of oils... Supposedly enhances durability of the engine.
Any definitive answer would be a pure guess... consult your manual.Originally posted by: Spikesoldier
ok what about 15w-50 in a 5w-30 car?
vehicle is 1999 mazda protege 1.8L dohc and location is texas
I agree, but the OP's question was whether or not it was "safe" to switch or not. While Pennzoil and Q-state may be considered inferior, I would not call them unsafe. As far as pure safety is concerned, any brand is fine as long as you keep it topped off.Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
Actually, some brands are better. I dislike the paraffin-based oils like Pennzoil and Quakerstate because there's a lot of buzz about them having problems with build-up. I tend to prefer Castrol GTX for regular oil and Mobil 1 for synthetic. I know that there are a lot of people who prefer AMSOil, but I have some issues with AMSOil. First of all, I find their advertising to be deliberately misleading and I also know that the minimal performance advantage of AMSOil does not justify the insane price.Originally posted by: Vic
Brand is unimportant. Weight and rating are important and should be kept the same and/or according to your owners manual.
ZV
