It it safe to switch motor oil?

KhoiFather

Platinum Member
Jun 28, 2002
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Like pretend if I'm using Pennzoil 10W30 but then I decide I wanna use Motoroil 10W40, would that be fine or would that hurt the engine since it's use to the Pennzoil oil?
 

Eli

Super Moderator | Elite Member
Oct 9, 1999
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"since it's used to the pennzoil oil"

LOL.. dude, your engine isn't alive.. it doesen't have feelings. ;)

It's fine.

Just stick to engine oil though. If you try and use something like corn oil, your engine would definately commit suicide in very short order. :p
 

Eli

Super Moderator | Elite Member
Oct 9, 1999
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Wait...

I misread your post. I thought it said 10W30 both times.

The answer is........ maybe.

Why do you want to swith to 10W40? What kind of car is it? How many miles? Where do you live?

All of those things matter when determining whether a viscosity change is safe or not.
 

BCYL

Diamond Member
Jun 7, 2000
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Just make sure you use the same rating motor oil... Like in your example you stick with 10W30...
 

FlashG

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Dec 23, 1999
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Originally posted by: Eli
Wait...

I misread your post. I thought it said 10W30 both times.

The answer is........ maybe.

Why do you want to swith to 10W40? What kind of car is it? How many miles? Where do you live?

All of those things matter when determining whether a viscosity change is safe or not.
Three months ago I decided to go with Mobile 1 in my +20yrs old ACVW. I was using 20W40 Dyno Lube with no problems. The synthetic is now leaking out of every over stressed gasket that it can find.

Moral? Dont change oil viscosity if it ain't broke.

 

Nutdotnet

Diamond Member
Dec 5, 2000
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Originally posted by: BCYL
Just make sure you use the same rating motor oil... Like in your example you stick with 10W30...

If all you have is a bottle of 10w40 and need to put oil in then go for it. One quart of a slightly different oil won't hurt.

But personally, I would keep with the same weight oil. Brands ain't gotta matter for a commuter.
 

Eli

Super Moderator | Elite Member
Oct 9, 1999
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Originally posted by: FlashG
Originally posted by: Eli
Wait...

I misread your post. I thought it said 10W30 both times.

The answer is........ maybe.

Why do you want to swith to 10W40? What kind of car is it? How many miles? Where do you live?

All of those things matter when determining whether a viscosity change is safe or not.
Three months ago I decided to go with Mobile 1 in my +20yrs old ACVW. I was using 20W40 Dyno Lube with no problems. The synthetic is now leaking out of every over stressed gasket that it can find.

Moral? Dont change oil viscosity if it ain't broke.
You could always use a heavier synthetic.

But synthetic is always going to leak more, it is just more fluid.

Also..... It's not a bad thing that the oil is leaking in one sense... it also means that it is circulating in the engine much better... it's the engines fault the oil is leaking, not the oil's.
 

FlashG

Platinum Member
Dec 23, 1999
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Originally posted by: Eli
Originally posted by: FlashG
Originally posted by: Eli
Wait...

I misread your post. I thought it said 10W30 both times.

The answer is........ maybe.

Why do you want to swith to 10W40? What kind of car is it? How many miles? Where do you live?

All of those things matter when determining whether a viscosity change is safe or not.
Three months ago I decided to go with Mobile 1 in my +20yrs old ACVW. I was using 20W40 Dyno Lube with no problems. The synthetic is now leaking out of every over stressed gasket that it can find.

Moral? Dont change oil viscosity if it ain't broke.
You could always use a heavier synthetic.

But synthetic is always going to leak more, it is just more fluid.

Also..... It's not a bad thing that the oil is leaking in one sense... it also means that it is circulating in the engine much better... it's the engines fault the oil is leaking, not the oil's.
True, but now it's got a fine stream of pure oil trailing the car. It's the two oil cooler o-ring gaskes. No biggie to fix but the leak does scare the he!! out of me.

After I fix the leaks I am going to try a higher grade. I hope it works cause I truly love Mobile 1. I use it in all my other cars and small gas motors (mower & pressure cleaner)

 

FoBoT

No Lifer
Apr 30, 2001
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how old is the car? if its a beater, do whatever you feel like, as long as it has the right amount of oil so the engine doesn't blow
 

KhoiFather

Platinum Member
Jun 28, 2002
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It's a 98 Toyota Corolla with about 59000 Miles, and I drive about 65-70 miles a day. So I need something strong, help me out!
 

Eli

Super Moderator | Elite Member
Oct 9, 1999
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If it's a beater, moving to a heavier oil can help extend it's life.
 

FoBoT

No Lifer
Apr 30, 2001
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Originally posted by: KhoiFather
It's a 98 Toyota Corolla with about 59000 Miles, and I drive about 65-70 miles a day. So I need something strong, help me out!

sounds like pre-beater era , why do you want to change?
 

Vic

Elite Member
Jun 12, 2001
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Brand is unimportant. Weight and rating are important and should be kept the same and/or according to your owners manual.
 

Zenmervolt

Elite member
Oct 22, 2000
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Originally posted by: FlashG
Originally posted by: Eli
Originally posted by: FlashG
Originally posted by: Eli
Wait...

I misread your post. I thought it said 10W30 both times.

The answer is........ maybe.

Why do you want to swith to 10W40? What kind of car is it? How many miles? Where do you live?

All of those things matter when determining whether a viscosity change is safe or not.
Three months ago I decided to go with Mobile 1 in my +20yrs old ACVW. I was using 20W40 Dyno Lube with no problems. The synthetic is now leaking out of every over stressed gasket that it can find.

Moral? Dont change oil viscosity if it ain't broke.
You could always use a heavier synthetic.

But synthetic is always going to leak more, it is just more fluid.

Also..... It's not a bad thing that the oil is leaking in one sense... it also means that it is circulating in the engine much better... it's the engines fault the oil is leaking, not the oil's.
True, but now it's got a fine stream of pure oil trailing the car. It's the two oil cooler o-ring gaskes. No biggie to fix but the leak does scare the he!! out of me.

After I fix the leaks I am going to try a higher grade. I hope it works cause I truly love Mobile 1. I use it in all my other cars and small gas motors (mower & pressure cleaner)
If you have to use a higher viscosity than the manual recommends, the engine needs to be fixed, period.

ZV
 

Spikesoldier

Diamond Member
Oct 15, 2001
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ok what about 15w-50 in a 5w-30 car?

vehicle is 1999 mazda protege 1.8L dohc and location is texas
 

Zenmervolt

Elite member
Oct 22, 2000
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Originally posted by: Vic
Brand is unimportant. Weight and rating are important and should be kept the same and/or according to your owners manual.
Actually, some brands are better. I dislike the paraffin-based oils like Pennzoil and Quakerstate because there's a lot of buzz about them having problems with build-up. I tend to prefer Castrol GTX for regular oil and Mobil 1 for synthetic. I know that there are a lot of people who prefer AMSOil, but I have some issues with AMSOil. First of all, I find their advertising to be deliberately misleading and I also know that the minimal performance advantage of AMSOil does not justify the insane price.

ZV
 

Howard

Lifer
Oct 14, 1999
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Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
Originally posted by: Vic
Brand is unimportant. Weight and rating are important and should be kept the same and/or according to your owners manual.
Actually, some brands are better. I dislike the paraffin-based oils like Pennzoil and Quakerstate because there's a lot of buzz about them having problems with build-up. I tend to prefer Castrol GTX for regular oil and Mobil 1 for synthetic. I know that there are a lot of people who prefer AMSOil, but I have some issues with AMSOil. First of all, I find their advertising to be deliberately misleading and I also know that the minimal performance advantage of AMSOil does not justify the insane price.

ZV
Check out Schaeffer's Micron Moly line of oils... Supposedly enhances durability of the engine.
 

Zenmervolt

Elite member
Oct 22, 2000
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Originally posted by: Spikesoldier
ok what about 15w-50 in a 5w-30 car?

vehicle is 1999 mazda protege 1.8L dohc and location is texas
Depends. Does the manual give 15W50 as an alternative for high-heat conditions? The manual should show the acceptable temperature ranges for several viscosities. For a car that normally uses 5W30, I can't imagine 15W50 being a good idea in temperatures below about 60 degrees.

ZV
 

CraigRT

Lifer
Jun 16, 2000
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I can only suggest stop using crappy Pennzoil and switch to something like Valvoline or Castrol.(for conventional oil) or Mobil or Amsoil synthetic.
 

Zenmervolt

Elite member
Oct 22, 2000
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Originally posted by: Howard
Check out Schaeffer's Micron Moly line of oils... Supposedly enhances durability of the engine.
I'll use a "Mr. Moly" additive every couple oil changes in my air-cooled car and motorcycle. It reduces oil temperatures (and head temperatures) significantly. Molybdenum Disulfide additives are pretty much the only safe additives.

ZV
 

Eli

Super Moderator | Elite Member
Oct 9, 1999
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Originally posted by: Spikesoldier
ok what about 15w-50 in a 5w-30 car?

vehicle is 1999 mazda protege 1.8L dohc and location is texas
Any definitive answer would be a pure guess... consult your manual.

If it doesen't have the information.. Damn, I dunno.. that's a tough one. I would probably go ahead and use it in the summer, but something else in the winter.
 

Vic

Elite Member
Jun 12, 2001
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Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
Originally posted by: Vic
Brand is unimportant. Weight and rating are important and should be kept the same and/or according to your owners manual.
Actually, some brands are better. I dislike the paraffin-based oils like Pennzoil and Quakerstate because there's a lot of buzz about them having problems with build-up. I tend to prefer Castrol GTX for regular oil and Mobil 1 for synthetic. I know that there are a lot of people who prefer AMSOil, but I have some issues with AMSOil. First of all, I find their advertising to be deliberately misleading and I also know that the minimal performance advantage of AMSOil does not justify the insane price.

ZV
I agree, but the OP's question was whether or not it was "safe" to switch or not. While Pennzoil and Q-state may be considered inferior, I would not call them unsafe. As far as pure safety is concerned, any brand is fine as long as you keep it topped off.
 

boyRacer

Lifer
Oct 1, 2001
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I thought synthetics start leaking in older cars because it washes away and dislodges sludge that has covered leaks before... ?