Is this a good tool to use for waxing?

DVad3r

Diamond Member
Jan 3, 2005
5,340
3
81
Hey all

Im going to be moving out to a house soon, and want to buy a tool to wax/buff my car during the summer. My dads friend had a tool similar to this but I am not sure it was an angle grinder. Nonetheless it did an amazing job waxing/buffing my boat, although it was hard work, mad buffing.

What do you people use or can recommend for waxing/buffing?

Here is what I am looking at

http://www.homedepot.ca/webapp/wcs/stor...e+matchall&recN=0&N=0&Ntk=P_PartNumber
 

Heisenberg

Lifer
Dec 21, 2001
10,621
1
0
Don't use an angle grinder unless you want to buff your paint right off. Get an orbital buffer/polisher that's made to do that.

Edit: Here's an article about waxing with a buffer.
 

DVad3r

Diamond Member
Jan 3, 2005
5,340
3
81
Originally posted by: Heisenberg
Don't use an angle grinder unless you want to buff your paint right off. Get an orbital buffer/polisher that's made to do that.

Edit: Here's an article about waxing with a buffer.


Hmm how will it take my paint off? With this on it? http://www.canadiantire.ca/browse/produ...d=1408474396672467&bmUID=1172083745873

And even the polishers they sell there designed for waxing/buffing look like angle grinders, just cost more and are probably cheaper.

It dident take the paint off my sailboat...it made it shine likea mirror.
 

Kaido

Elite Member & Kitchen Overlord
Feb 14, 2004
51,691
7,291
136
Originally posted by: DVad3r
Originally posted by: Heisenberg
Don't use an angle grinder unless you want to buff your paint right off. Get an orbital buffer/polisher that's made to do that.

Edit: Here's an article about waxing with a buffer.


Hmm how will it take my paint off? With this on it? http://www.canadiantire.ca/browse/produ...d=1408474396672467&bmUID=1172083745873

And even the polishers they sell there designed for waxing/buffing look like angle grinders, just cost more and are probably cheaper.

It dident take the paint off my sailboat...it made it shine likea mirror.

I got a 6" or 8" buffer from Home Depot for like $19.95, works great. It came with a couple different polishing bonnets. I prefer to put the wax on by hand. Then you just use the buffer (aka random orbital polisher) to take it off. Or a towel. I prefer doing the whole thing by hand because it really works your arm muscles ;)
 

Heisenberg

Lifer
Dec 21, 2001
10,621
1
0
An angle grinder is more powerful than a polisher, and way more powerful than an orbital buffer. Even with a polisher, you have to be careful about burning through the paint. A random orbital buffer is less powerful than a polisher (since it's made to buff and not polish) and it's pretty hard to damage paint with one.
 

Kaido

Elite Member & Kitchen Overlord
Feb 14, 2004
51,691
7,291
136
Originally posted by: Heisenberg
An angle grinder is more powerful than a polisher, and way more powerful than an orbital buffer. Even with a polisher, you have to be careful about burning through the paint. A random orbital buffer is less powerful than a polisher (since it's made to buff and not polish) and it's virtually impossible to damage paint with one.

Yeah, "random orbital buffer" is what you want to get. They are cheap, easy to hold, and won't damage your car (at least not easily).
 

OutHouse

Lifer
Jun 5, 2000
36,410
616
126
Originally posted by: DVad3r
Originally posted by: Heisenberg
Don't use an angle grinder unless you want to buff your paint right off. Get an orbital buffer/polisher that's made to do that.

Edit: Here's an article about waxing with a buffer.


Hmm how will it take my paint off? With this on it? http://www.canadiantire.ca/browse/produ...d=1408474396672467&bmUID=1172083745873

And even the polishers they sell there designed for waxing/buffing look like angle grinders, just cost more and are probably cheaper.

It dident take the paint off my sailboat...it made it shine likea mirror.

angle grinders (notice the word grinder) spin at a much higer RPM and WILL take the paint off your car.
 

Kaido

Elite Member & Kitchen Overlord
Feb 14, 2004
51,691
7,291
136
Originally posted by: DVad3r
You guys are scaring me, here is the exact one I think he used, just the handle was different, so I do think it was an angle grinder.

http://www.rona.ca/webapp/wcs/stores/se...uctId=25640&catentryList=25639%2C25640

There are more or less three levels of "spinning" tools:

1. Buffing
2. Polishing
3. Grinding

Buffing is simply taking off the top coat of wax. It's equivalent to doing it by hand, but faster. Buffers are usually around $20 or $30 for a small 6" model. All it does is take the manual work out of removing wax.

Polishing is like using liquid sandpaper on your paint. The point is to remove a very tiny top coat of the paint, combined with a compound that makes it really shiny. You don't want to polish very often (like hardly ever) because it strips your paint off. Polishing takes off small scratches and stuff and gives it that "new" look.

Griding is for when you want to take something off. I've only used a grinder in home construction. I'd imagine you'd use it on a car to remove built-up rust or something. It can grind away paint, metal and other material.

Bottom line, you want a random orbital buffer if you want to make your car look purty.
 

JMWarren

Golden Member
Nov 6, 2003
1,201
0
0
In the hands of a professional an angle grinder can work beautifully. In the hands of an beginner, you will see sheet metal. Get to too close to an edge or use the wrong technique and the combination of high RPM without random orbit action can result in burnt paint.
 

Kaido

Elite Member & Kitchen Overlord
Feb 14, 2004
51,691
7,291
136
Originally posted by: JMWarren
In the hands of a professional an angle grinder can work beautifully. In the hands of an beginner, you will see sheet metal. Get to too close to an edge or use the wrong technique and the combination of high RPM without random orbit action can result in burnt paint.

I've seen it happen, it's not a pretty sight. Luckily it was on a gray finish ;) OP, it looks like Turtle Wax makes a nice little kit for $29:

http://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-Random...bbs_5/102-2404418-5524115?ie=UTF8&s=hi

Gives you a buffer with a few different pads plus a nice bucket. I also really like the Turtle Wax paste for waxing.
 

Heisenberg

Lifer
Dec 21, 2001
10,621
1
0
Originally posted by: Kaido
There are more or less three levels of "spinning" tools:

1. Buffing
2. Polishing
3. Grinding

Buffing is simply taking off the top coat of wax. It's equivalent to doing it by hand, but faster. Buffers are usually around $20 or $30 for a small 6" model. All it does is take the manual work out of removing wax.

Polishing is like using liquid sandpaper on your paint. The point is to remove a very tiny top coat of the paint, combined with a compound that makes it really shiny. You don't want to polish very often (like hardly ever) because it strips your paint off. Polishing takes off small scratches and stuff and gives it that "new" look.

Griding is for when you want to take something off. I've only used a grinder in home construction. I'd imagine you'd use it on a car to remove built-up rust or something. It can grind away paint, metal and other material.

Bottom line, you want a random orbital buffer if you want to make your car look purty.
I was just about to post something like this. Thanks for saving me the typing. ;)
 

Kaido

Elite Member & Kitchen Overlord
Feb 14, 2004
51,691
7,291
136
Originally posted by: Heisenberg

I was just about to post something like this. Thanks for saving me the typing. ;)

;) Cleaning your car is over-hyped in my opinion. I don't use anything but water to clean my car, plus maybe a clay bar or something if you have tar on the sides. Just keep the water running over the area you're washing and it'll never get scratched. Dry it off with a chamois cloth then wax it in the shade. I really like that idea of using painter's tape for the edges, from the link above, I'm going to start doing that. Even if you're a real fanatic you only really need to wax it once a month to keep it looking nice and new and shiny. I did my old truck every couple of weeks mainly for the workout :D

 

DVad3r

Diamond Member
Jan 3, 2005
5,340
3
81
Hmm thanks for the advice. That orbital buffer looks pretty cheap, the turtle wax one, can anyone recommend any good quality ones? Mmmm
 

Kaido

Elite Member & Kitchen Overlord
Feb 14, 2004
51,691
7,291
136
Originally posted by: DVad3r
Hmm thanks for the advice. That orbital buffer looks pretty cheap, the turtle wax one, can anyone recommend any good quality ones? Mmmm

A buffer is just a motor inside a plastic shell with a foam disc attached, nothing real special about it. I got one from Home Depot, Porter Cable was the brand I think. $20 and came with a nice plastic case and a couple different buffing bonnets. Just make sure you get a random orbital one and follow the directions for buffing on that link listed near the top of this thread. Oh and make sure you have an extension cord handy.
 

Kaido

Elite Member & Kitchen Overlord
Feb 14, 2004
51,691
7,291
136
Here is what I do to clean my car:

Interior:
I have a shop vac that has a couple nozzles on a hose that I use for vacuuming out the car. Shake out the floor mats and move the seats back and forth to get all the crap under them. I just use a wet cotton t-shirt and a bucket of water to clean the interior - chemicals can cause cracking on interior plastic and vinyl pieces. If you've spilled a drink in your cup holders, just soak it with some water then wipe it out with your t-shirt. The shirt also acts as a duster when you do your dash with it. Don't forget about the trunk!

Washing:
Hose
Soft cotton towel
Soft cotton t-shirt
Bucket
Foam scrub brush
Chamois
Squeegee

Begin by spraying the whole car so it's all wet. Start washing from the top down so that all the crud will wash down the car to the ground. I just use plain old water because I don't like washing chemicals eating away at my car. Use the soft cotten towel to scrub the car's body. The most important rule when washing is to always keep the water flowing where you are scrubbing. Paint is easy to scratch and if you get some dirt particles trapped under your towel and keep scrubbing, it will scratch the surface like sandpaper. Just hold your hose above the area where you're scrubbing to keep the dirt moving.

For the windows, use a soft cotton t-shirt, I've found that these work the best. I don't use Windex or other glass cleaners because they eat away at the rubber weather stripping on the windows. Water also dries nice and clear and doesn't leave streaks. You can use the bucket for when you're washing the inside of your car's windows. For the rims, you can use a towel or scrub brush depending on what kind of rims you have. Mine are just plastic rims so a towel or thick foam brush works fine. I usually use a brush because it gets caked-on dirt out better and doesn't gunk up as quickly as a towel does.

To dry the car, use a chamois cloth. It's a special water-absorbent cloth kind of like a sponge...you can scoop up lots of water with it and then wring it out. It's a very quick way to dry your car and prevents water spots. For the windows, I just use a squeegee. For cleanup, it's nice to use liquid fabric softener on the towels and shirts like the tutorial in the link a few posts up says, that way everything stays nice and soft. Make sure the windows aren't frosty when you're done. Also give the headlights, tailpipes, and license plates a good scrubbing. If you have any road tar or nasty bugs that won't come off, you can buy clay bars and bug remover juice from any car parts store.

Waxing:
Wax (I like the Turtle Wax paste in the green plastic can, comes with an applicator)
Applicator (comes with some wax, otherwise available as a soft foam or cloth disc)
Painter's tape
Shady area to wax your car in
Soft cotton towel -or- buffer tool

First move your car into a shaded area, like under a tree or carport or in a garage. The reason for this is so that the wax won't dry too quickly. The basic idea is to wax up a section of your car using the applicator, then wax up a second section, then go back and buff off the wax off the first panel using the towel or buffing tool. After that wax up a third section, then go back and buff off the wax off the second panel, and so on. I really like the idea of using the blue Painter's tape to tape off edges the trim pieces; it's a real pain to get wax off little plastic crevices. Alternatively you can just wax really close to the edge, but try not to go over.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>

That's pretty much all that's needed to keep your car shiny and clean. How often you do it is up to you (i.e. if you have kids you probably want to vacuum it out weekly). You can buy plenty of aftermarket cleaning products, but I've found they don't really do much for you. You may also need to pick up some specialty items like chrome polish or tire shine depending on what you have on your car and how you want your car to look.
 

Mutilator

Diamond Member
Aug 22, 2000
3,513
10
81
You want something like this.
And please read around here before you even consider putting anything that spins quickly near your paint. ;)
 

DVad3r

Diamond Member
Jan 3, 2005
5,340
3
81
Originally posted by: Kaido
Here is what I do to clean my car:

Interior:
I have a shop vac that has a couple nozzles on a hose that I use for vacuuming out the car. Shake out the floor mats and move the seats back and forth to get all the crap under them. I just use a wet cotton t-shirt and a bucket of water to clean the interior - chemicals can cause cracking on interior plastic and vinyl pieces. If you've spilled a drink in your cup holders, just soak it with some water then wipe it out with your t-shirt. The shirt also acts as a duster when you do your dash with it. Don't forget about the trunk!

Washing:
Hose
Soft cotton towel
Soft cotton t-shirt
Bucket
Foam scrub brush
Chamois
Squeegee

Begin by spraying the whole car so it's all wet. Start washing from the top down so that all the crud will wash down the car to the ground. I just use plain old water because I don't like washing chemicals eating away at my car. Use the soft cotten towel to scrub the car's body. The most important rule when washing is to always keep the water flowing where you are scrubbing. Paint is easy to scratch and if you get some dirt particles trapped under your towel and keep scrubbing, it will scratch the surface like sandpaper. Just hold your hose above the area where you're scrubbing to keep the dirt moving.

For the windows, use a soft cotton t-shirt, I've found that these work the best. I don't use Windex or other glass cleaners because they eat away at the rubber weather stripping on the windows. Water also dries nice and clear and doesn't leave streaks. You can use the bucket for when you're washing the inside of your car's windows. For the rims, you can use a towel or scrub brush depending on what kind of rims you have. Mine are just plastic rims so a towel or thick foam brush works fine. I usually use a brush because it gets caked-on dirt out better and doesn't gunk up as quickly as a towel does.

To dry the car, use a chamois cloth. It's a special water-absorbent cloth kind of like a sponge...you can scoop up lots of water with it and then wring it out. It's a very quick way to dry your car and prevents water spots. For the windows, I just use a squeegee. For cleanup, it's nice to use liquid fabric softener on the towels and shirts like the tutorial in the link a few posts up says, that way everything stays nice and soft. Make sure the windows aren't frosty when you're done. Also give the headlights, tailpipes, and license plates a good scrubbing. If you have any road tar or nasty bugs that won't come off, you can buy clay bars and bug remover juice from any car parts store.

Waxing:
Wax (I like the Turtle Wax paste in the green plastic can, comes with an applicator)
Applicator (comes with some wax, otherwise available as a soft foam or cloth disc)
Painter's tape
Shady area to wax your car in
Soft cotton towel -or- buffer tool

First move your car into a shaded area, like under a tree or carport or in a garage. The reason for this is so that the wax won't dry too quickly. The basic idea is to wax up a section of your car using the applicator, then wax up a second section, then go back and buff off the wax off the first panel using the towel or buffing tool. After that wax up a third section, then go back and buff off the wax off the second panel, and so on. I really like the idea of using the blue Painter's tape to tape off edges the trim pieces; it's a real pain to get wax off little plastic crevices. Alternatively you can just wax really close to the edge, but try not to go over.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>

That's pretty much all that's needed to keep your car shiny and clean. How often you do it is up to you (i.e. if you have kids you probably want to vacuum it out weekly). You can buy plenty of aftermarket cleaning products, but I've found they don't really do much for you. You may also need to pick up some specialty items like chrome polish or tire shine depending on what you have on your car and how you want your car to look.

Lol nice guide, and thanks for the response ;)

I think Im going to relax for a bit and wait till summer actually comes, then I will try manually waxing/buffing the car, the workout factor is appealing to me. I might consider a machine to help me out down the line, but Im kinda hesistant to the 30 $ buffers etc out there, if I were to get one it would be a cyclo buffer or something (I hate cheap things).

I also talked to my dad and the buffer his friend has has a huge 12 inch buffing disc attached to it, and has variable speed settings. It's made by makita and he bought it at some speciality power tool shop. It looks like an angle grinder but it's not. We used the thing on my sailboat and it worked like a charm, not sure how it would work on a car.

some of the guides on this site are also good http://www.autopia.org/ ty for the link

 

Kaido

Elite Member & Kitchen Overlord
Feb 14, 2004
51,691
7,291
136
Originally posted by: DVad3r

Lol nice guide, and thanks for the response ;)

I think Im going to relax for a bit and wait till summer actually comes, then I will try manually waxing/buffing the car, the workout factor is appealing to me. I might consider a machine to help me out down the line, but Im kinda hesistant to the 30 $ buffers etc out there, if I were to get one it would be a cyclo buffer or something (I hate cheap things).

I also talked to my dad and the buffer his friend has has a huge 12 inch buffing disc attached to it, and has variable speed settings. It's made by makita and he bought it at some speciality power tool shop. It looks like an angle grinder but it's not. We used the thing on my sailboat and it worked like a charm, not sure how it would work on a car.

some of the guides on this site are also good http://www.autopia.org/ ty for the link

:D Just remember, the bigger the head the harder it will be to get small areas and curved surfaces. Although if you do it manually, you get a workout PLUS a tan ;)
 

Mutilator

Diamond Member
Aug 22, 2000
3,513
10
81
Originally posted by: DVad3r
Originally posted by: Kaido
Here is what I do to clean my car:

Interior:
I have a shop vac that has a couple nozzles on a hose that I use for vacuuming out the car. Shake out the floor mats and move the seats back and forth to get all the crap under them. I just use a wet cotton t-shirt and a bucket of water to clean the interior - chemicals can cause cracking on interior plastic and vinyl pieces. If you've spilled a drink in your cup holders, just soak it with some water then wipe it out with your t-shirt. The shirt also acts as a duster when you do your dash with it. Don't forget about the trunk!

Washing:
Hose
Soft cotton towel
Soft cotton t-shirt
Bucket
Foam scrub brush
Chamois
Squeegee

Begin by spraying the whole car so it's all wet. Start washing from the top down so that all the crud will wash down the car to the ground. I just use plain old water because I don't like washing chemicals eating away at my car. Use the soft cotten towel to scrub the car's body. The most important rule when washing is to always keep the water flowing where you are scrubbing. Paint is easy to scratch and if you get some dirt particles trapped under your towel and keep scrubbing, it will scratch the surface like sandpaper. Just hold your hose above the area where you're scrubbing to keep the dirt moving.

For the windows, use a soft cotton t-shirt, I've found that these work the best. I don't use Windex or other glass cleaners because they eat away at the rubber weather stripping on the windows. Water also dries nice and clear and doesn't leave streaks. You can use the bucket for when you're washing the inside of your car's windows. For the rims, you can use a towel or scrub brush depending on what kind of rims you have. Mine are just plastic rims so a towel or thick foam brush works fine. I usually use a brush because it gets caked-on dirt out better and doesn't gunk up as quickly as a towel does.

To dry the car, use a chamois cloth. It's a special water-absorbent cloth kind of like a sponge...you can scoop up lots of water with it and then wring it out. It's a very quick way to dry your car and prevents water spots. For the windows, I just use a squeegee. For cleanup, it's nice to use liquid fabric softener on the towels and shirts like the tutorial in the link a few posts up says, that way everything stays nice and soft. Make sure the windows aren't frosty when you're done. Also give the headlights, tailpipes, and license plates a good scrubbing. If you have any road tar or nasty bugs that won't come off, you can buy clay bars and bug remover juice from any car parts store.

Waxing:
Wax (I like the Turtle Wax paste in the green plastic can, comes with an applicator)
Applicator (comes with some wax, otherwise available as a soft foam or cloth disc)
Painter's tape
Shady area to wax your car in
Soft cotton towel -or- buffer tool

First move your car into a shaded area, like under a tree or carport or in a garage. The reason for this is so that the wax won't dry too quickly. The basic idea is to wax up a section of your car using the applicator, then wax up a second section, then go back and buff off the wax off the first panel using the towel or buffing tool. After that wax up a third section, then go back and buff off the wax off the second panel, and so on. I really like the idea of using the blue Painter's tape to tape off edges the trim pieces; it's a real pain to get wax off little plastic crevices. Alternatively you can just wax really close to the edge, but try not to go over.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>

That's pretty much all that's needed to keep your car shiny and clean. How often you do it is up to you (i.e. if you have kids you probably want to vacuum it out weekly). You can buy plenty of aftermarket cleaning products, but I've found they don't really do much for you. You may also need to pick up some specialty items like chrome polish or tire shine depending on what you have on your car and how you want your car to look.

Lol nice guide, and thanks for the response ;)

I think Im going to relax for a bit and wait till summer actually comes, then I will try manually waxing/buffing the car, the workout factor is appealing to me. I might consider a machine to help me out down the line, but Im kinda hesistant to the 30 $ buffers etc out there, if I were to get one it would be a cyclo buffer or something (I hate cheap things).

I also talked to my dad and the buffer his friend has has a huge 12 inch buffing disc attached to it, and has variable speed settings. It's made by makita and he bought it at some speciality power tool shop. It looks like an angle grinder but it's not. We used the thing on my sailboat and it worked like a charm, not sure how it would work on a car.

some of the guides on this site are also good http://www.autopia.org/ ty for the link

I use to type out long responses too... but then it just got easier to just post the link to Autopia and let you read DavidB's method as well as everyone elses variant of it. :)