Is this a good pump.

[tylerdustin2008]

Is this a good pump.


http://www.cooltechnica.com/Merchant2/m...Code=HydorL30-EU&Category_Code=AC-Pump

Is the stuff on this site any good. http://www.cooltechnica.com/ like aqua extreme water blocks


Thanks

Tyler

 

[Fullmetal Chocobo]

Originally posted by: tylerdustin2008

EDIT after EDIT: Ah, water cooling tubing. I thought you were asking about heat shrink tubing...

 

[tylerdustin2008]

There you go i updated it.

 

[GalvanizedYankee]

Hang on, the water cooled guys will offer much.

Did you search this forum, Cases & Cooling, for hose? Much has been posted.
After search one, do search two in the archives.


...Galvanized

 

[TrevorRC]

Vouyer-mods offers Primoflex stuff which is the same stuff as DD's colored Tygon [2.XX a foot @ DD] for 1.25 a foot. I've got it, and it's on par with Tygon.
--Trevor

 

[tylerdustin2008]

thanks man, i have looked at it but i will see

 

[HardWarrior]

Originally posted by: TrevorRC
Vouyer-mods offers Primoflex stuff which is the same stuff as DD's colored Tygon [2.XX a foot @ DD] for 1.25 a foot. I've got it, and it's on par with Tygon.
--Trevor

Primoflex is silicon, Tygon is PVC. Tygon is a lot more resistant to evaporation and sticks to barbs in a far more uniform way.

 

[TrevorRC]

Originally posted by: HardWarrior

Originally posted by: TrevorRC
Vouyer-mods offers Primoflex stuff which is the same stuff as DD's colored Tygon [2.XX a foot @ DD] for 1.25 a foot. I've got it, and it's on par with Tygon.
--Trevor

Primoflex is silicon, Tygon is PVC. Tygon is a lot more resistant to evaporation and sticks to barbs in a far more uniform way.

Thank you for the correction.

Let me correct myself on something else, as well... "DD's colored Tygon"
http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=57&cat=7&page=1

Which was, at some point in time, advertised as "near-Tygon" in quality.

When I was ref'ing to "On par with Tygon" I was reffering to bendableness/flexibility ONLY. I can't make any statements on evaporation, as I never used Tygon-long term, only bought a little bit to play with.

As for gripping barbs--so long as you are using hose clamps, that really isn't an issue, though some people like to brag about not using clamps in their system You aren't one of them, I know. But some people like to [[and it is true--the force on it is great enough that you actually have to cut them off. But I still prefer using clamps.]

If you're using a T-Line, I'd go with the primoflex I pointed out. If you're using a reservoir [The DD one is a PITA to fill, btw.], go with the Tygon for the evaporative advantages. [Correct me if I'm wrong HW, but isn't some Tygon tubing silicone based, the stuff we use is just PVC?]

--Trevor

 

[HardWarrior]

Did they actually CALL it colored-Tygon? Tygon may have an issue with that, because as far as I know the only colored tube they make is black, which is deeply sexy, BTW. "On par" is good I guess. However, Tygon is superior in other salient ways, like it doesn't dry and become brittle any where near as quickly as more standard tubing. Considering some of the crap people cycle through their loops this might be an issue. No, it's PVC.

specs

Type Tygon Chemical PVC Tubing
Plastic Tygon PVC
Tygon PVC Material Tygon PVC
Material Tygon PVC
Shape Single Line
Reinforcement Unreinforced
Clear Clear
Color Clear
Maximum Pressure Range, psi Under 100
Low Temperature Range -99º to -1º F
High Temperature Range +101º to +200º F
Operating Temperature Range -58º to +165º F
Durometer Range 41A-60A (Soft)
Durometer (Soft) 55A
Durometer 55A (Soft)
Tygon Formulation R-3603
Fittings Used Barbed
Specifications Met United States Food and Drug Administration (FDA)

I tend to agree that barb stickiness isn't all THAT important, but it does play a role. Barbs come in at least a few configuations. On, say, DD high-flow fittings I'll take all the stickiness I can get because they're as slick as snot. With two-ring PVC barbs, it doesn't matter so much, you can even get by without barbs on these. Look at good tubing as insurance, Trevor. You can either have that safe feeling that you get when you take out a policy or not. It depends on how you want to play it.

 

[tylerdustin2008]

thanks guys for all of the info, keep it up so i can learn some things , and what do you mean by "evaporation", it is in tubing which is in a closed loop how can it evaporate? Also now long does Tygon last? years months weeks, and the same on the primoflex.

 

[HardWarrior]

Most tubing is permeable, even though you can't see the holes. That's why when you use tubing long enough the particles that make most additives colored work their way into the wall of the tubing. Water molecules function the same way, only they're even smaller. I suspect Tygon and Primoflex will last for a good while. Years maybe, if you treat it right, but frankly I've never used any tubing for longer than a year.

 

[tylerdustin2008]

ok thanks for the help, i will go with primoflex cheaper and they are ABOUT the same, also i dont know how well this setup will work so............

 

[tylerdustin2008]

bump

 

[TrevorRC]

Originally posted by: HardWarrior
Most tubing is permeable, even though you can't see the holes. That's why when you use tubing long enough the particles that make most additives colored work their way into the wall of the tubing. Water molecules function the same way, only they're even smaller. I suspect Tygon and Primoflex will last for a good while. Years maybe, if you treat it right, but frankly I've never used any tubing for longer than a year.

Same here. Everything except solid tubing [and then even some of that] is porous; but didn't think the difference would be substantial.
I change my build enough that I just buy new tubing whenever I change it.

Also, @ OP... you don't need two pumps. One single D5/Eheim 1250/MCP655/MCP350+inlet mod will do the job.
You aren't running crossfire, and even then you probably wouldn't need it [provided you weren't using full coverage blocks and a storm.]

If you have anything other than one of the above models, let us know what it is. [The model you listed is on par with the 1250, AFAIK.]

Adding an extra pump will just contribute to the heat dump in the water, and if you don't ahve any issues with a single one, a double really won't make too much of a difference.
--Trevor

 

[tylerdustin2008]

i have a custom water cooling project and at the moment all i have is a DD D4 pump i bought it from hard warrior, and i will be running this stuff in another case. i wont be using the small one anymore. and i will have my case and the case that this stuff will be in side by side and i plan on cooling sli, and the cpu. and i might want another pump in the actual computer to pump the fluid back to the cooling tower. if anyone has a d4, d5 or any swiftech, danger den pump under $35-$40 i will need it. i would prefer the name brand pumps i dont know if the one i listed above is name brand if it is sweet.


http://forums.anandtech.com/messageview.aspx?catid=37&threadid=1859397

 

[tylerdustin2008]

Originally posted by: TrevorRC

Originally posted by: HardWarrior
Most tubing is permeable, even though you can't see the holes. That's why when you use tubing long enough the particles that make most additives colored work their way into the wall of the tubing. Water molecules function the same way, only they're even smaller. I suspect Tygon and Primoflex will last for a good while. Years maybe, if you treat it right, but frankly I've never used any tubing for longer than a year.

Same here. Everything except solid tubing [and then even some of that] is porous; but didn't think the difference would be substantial.
I change my build enough that I just buy new tubing whenever I change it.

******Also, @ OP... you don't need two pumps. One single D5/Eheim 1250/MCP655/MCP350+inlet mod will do the job.
You aren't running crossfire, and even then you probably wouldn't need it [provided you weren't using full coverage blocks and a storm.]*******

If you have anything other than one of the above models, let us know what it is. [The model you listed is on par with the 1250, AFAIK.]

Adding an extra pump will just contribute to the heat dump in the water, and if you don't ahve any issues with a single one, a double really won't make too much of a difference.
--Trevor


what exactly do you mean in the field in stars, i know the crossfire but the other

 

[tylerdustin2008]

Is the stuff on this site any good. http://www.cooltechnica.com/ like aqua extreme water blocks

 

[tylerdustin2008]

up

 

[TrevorRC]

Originally posted by: tylerdustin2008

Originally posted by: TrevorRC******Also, @ OP... you don't need two pumps. One single D5/Eheim 1250/MCP655/MCP350+inlet mod will do the job.
You aren't running crossfire, and even then you probably wouldn't need it [provided you weren't using full coverage blocks and a storm.]*******

what exactly do you mean in the field in stars, i know the crossfire but the other

I meant that provided you're using an Eheim 1250/D5/MCP655/MCP350/HydorL30 etc; you DO NOT NEED ANOTHER PUMP.

I'm not familiar with D4s; give me a few minutes.

Unless you are running a storm AND two GPU waterblocks, you do NOT need more than one pump... [[Even then, an Iwaki will solve most of that ]] you're only increasing head pressure and if you're fine as it, there's no need for it.
--Trevor

Edit: Just read up a bit. The D4 was the replacement model for the MCP600.

Read this page:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=41495

The D4 is COMPLETELY adequate for what you are using, there is no need to buy another unless you are using more than 2/3 waterblocks.

 

[mindwreck]

Originally posted by: tylerdustin2008
Is this a good pump.


http://www.cooltechnica.com/Merchant2/m...Code=HydorL30-EU&Category_Code=AC-Pump

Is the stuff on this site any good. http://www.cooltechnica.com/ like aqua extreme water blocks


Thanks

Tyler

Hydor pumps are cheap(because they're made cheaply!!) and they will break long before you can even upgrade your setup. I tried one and it broke down in 3 months. They're cheap, their completely plastic, no bearings, VERY NOISEY compared to a D5 or DDC.

save up for a D5 or equivalent and you won't regret.

 

[tylerdustin2008]

the fittings on my rad is like 3/8, plus i am going to to running 10' of tubing ( im guessing) and later i will have 3 water cooling blocks

 

[TrevorRC]

10 feet of tubing? Are you joking? That's pushing water up and down a FULL tower, 5 times. [2 feet up, down doesn't count for much because of gravity. w00t.]

If you truly are going to be using over 10' of tubing, you can either go dual-pump [which will NOT yield double the pressure] or grab an Iwaki. My money would be on the Iwaki pump. Again, check the XS thread I linked to here.

You can occasionally snag Iwaki's on eBay for a good price, and If you sell your D4, it'll cost roughly the same and the heat dump will be lower. [And quieter.] (Or just buy an HD20 for ~100 bucks @ Aquadirect.)

If you still want a double-pump; make sure you go with one with similar flow-specs, otherwise you're going to burn one out.

Still, I highly doubt you'll need anything to that extent Remember that the water isn't going straight up, just down.
--Trevor

 

[tylerdustin2008]

ok this works, i will check ebay, but i would prefer dc power. but whatever i need i will get

 

[VballCoach]

I guess your going to be using an external then? for 10' of tubing, right?
I did it with my 1st loop 3yrs ago. had my BigMama rad with a 120mm Sunon in the closet that had a window. It did work pretty good. I used a QuietOne 1200 pump. Don't even bother with those..they get real loud so don't ask about them.

I'd have to agree with the Iwaki if you're going external for that length of tubing.

Are you still getting your loop together or is it up and running?

I'd suggest the modded mcp-350, 7/16" Masterkleer tubing and a cpu and gpu block. you should be able to switch your barbs on your rad to 1/2". The 7/16" tubing will work with the 1/2" barbs. The modded mcp-350 is excellent especially the 18w. I just modded one for a friend and it's significantly stronger than my 10w.

 

[tylerdustin2008]

no i dont have the rig up and running yet i am wait on cash to finish it, and i cant change the barbs on my rad. because it came of of a f-150 truck, i am trying to run cheap, because the price on those rads. that are meant for water cooling are expensive way to expensive. and can you get me a link for a pic on the modded mcp-350. i have no idea what that looks like. IF ANYONE HAS A EXTRA GOOD PUMP THAT YOU THINK WOULD WORK FOR ME LET ME KNOW, I WILL NEED A LITTLE WHILE TO BUY IT THOUGH. AND I DONT REALLY WANT TO SPEND OVER $70 ON A USED PUMP, MAYBE A NEW ONE AND I WOULD PREFER DC BUT STILL LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU HAVE.

THANKS FOR THE HELP KEEP IT COMING