Is this a good package? 2 RF subs and 200wrms amp for 189$
- Thread starter WageSlave
- Start date
I think that because they are selling rockford fosgate subs with it, they use this rockwood amp, to try to confue you and make you think you are getting an RF amp
its Rockford-Fosgate, not rockwood. Decent brand, though not top of the line. <edit> I see the "rockwood" amp part. Kinda shady.
Rockford Fosgate makes some really good stuff, and some shoddy stuff.
Over the last few years, RF has introduced some lower end stuff that's more attractive to the masses that can't afford their mack-daddy stuff. Let's not kid ourselves, that "Rockwood" amp is junk and it's pretty obvious they're just trying to trick you. If you're asking if this is a good deal, I'll ask *you* a question: what's your goal? Do you want good sound or do you just want an amp and some subs that sorta make some noise that sounds something like bass. There is no free lunch. You can get good deals from time to time here and there, but remember people are in business to make money. I wouldn't buy this setup; that amp screams of sketchiness. For a little more, you can get a good amp and sub that will last a while. IMO its better to save up and buy quality than to shell out $200 for this setup.
my .02
Over the last few years, RF has introduced some lower end stuff that's more attractive to the masses that can't afford their mack-daddy stuff. Let's not kid ourselves, that "Rockwood" amp is junk and it's pretty obvious they're just trying to trick you. If you're asking if this is a good deal, I'll ask *you* a question: what's your goal? Do you want good sound or do you just want an amp and some subs that sorta make some noise that sounds something like bass. There is no free lunch. You can get good deals from time to time here and there, but remember people are in business to make money. I wouldn't buy this setup; that amp screams of sketchiness. For a little more, you can get a good amp and sub that will last a while. IMO its better to save up and buy quality than to shell out $200 for this setup.
my .02
<< Yeah.... everyone says RF is not top of the line... so what IS? >>
There's quite a few companies in the top of the line category, but few people can afford them, hence why they're not very popular.
Why not get a good 15inch sub, IE; $60 15inch Dayton Thruster, and an amp that's say 200watts into 4ohms bridged. That'll give you a good amount of bass, and will still have good sound quality......much better than a pair of 5h@tty 12inchers could ever do.
I think im going to stick with the little 8inch I have, and go ahead and throw the rockford fosgate 100.2 on it, bridged to 100w.. that seems like it should provide a little kick.. I have no interest in shaking my car apart, I just want tight responsive bass
Then why use an 8incher in the first place?
You probably won't get enough SPL out of it get "tight" bass in the first place.
Which 8incher do you have?
100watts is a fair bit of power; especially for an 8incher.
You probably won't get enough SPL out of it get "tight" bass in the first place.
Which 8incher do you have?
100watts is a fair bit of power; especially for an 8incher.
8inchers just have to move SO far to create a bass tone at an acceptable volume, it's not very responsive, due to that very fact.
Note that the motivating force decreases the more the cone travels, so that's another mark against sound quality, unless you really have a very potent driver (I'm talking $200 Focal/ScanSpeak/Cabasse drivers here, nothing you'd fine in a typical audio store).
I assume you have it in a sealed box? That'll help for SQ, but not really for SPL levels.
And where does all this trash talk about bandpass enclosures come from?
When done properly (and believe me, it's hard to find one that is), they're VERY tight and good sounding.
Note that the motivating force decreases the more the cone travels, so that's another mark against sound quality, unless you really have a very potent driver (I'm talking $200 Focal/ScanSpeak/Cabasse drivers here, nothing you'd fine in a typical audio store).
I assume you have it in a sealed box? That'll help for SQ, but not really for SPL levels.
And where does all this trash talk about bandpass enclosures come from?
When done properly (and believe me, it's hard to find one that is), they're VERY tight and good sounding.
so is my 8inch worhtless? I really just want to add a little kick... WouldI be better off just replacing my rear 6x9's with these, and running the fosgate amp to them on the dual voice coils?
http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/BLAODX694blau
What do y ou think of this amp?
http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/BLAODX694blau
What do y ou think of this amp?
That's a tough call...I wish I could find specs on that crossfire sub 
But I would venture to say those 6x9's wouldn't be much worse than your 8inch sub....and when you amp them (just dont use quite that much power, if and only if you get boxes for them (the 6x9's)), they'd probably be able to compete with your sub. Remember, and 8incher isn't much at all.
At one point I had my Kicker impulse 352xi running my rear 6x9's crossed as subs, and there was no impact, tightness, or speed, but they did the job decently well.
That is *okay*, but I would suggest getting a lower powered 4 chanenl amp with built in crossovers, so you can run one voice coil as a sub (and lowpass-cross it at say 80hz) and the other voice coil as a "mid" and run it from say 80hz and up. That would keep your SQ going, and will still give you a reasonable bass.
In the ideal SQ setup, you have really good fronts that play everything (bass, mids, highs), rears that play no bass or no highs (NONE at all, only midrange), and a sub in the trunk crossed over very low. In this setup, you coudl keep your stock 6x9's, upgrade your fronts to some nice components, and keep your 8inch sub. I would recommend that you rebuild the box to a ported one, just so you can gain some more SPL, if you wanna take the trouble.
But I would venture to say those 6x9's wouldn't be much worse than your 8inch sub....and when you amp them (just dont use quite that much power, if and only if you get boxes for them (the 6x9's)), they'd probably be able to compete with your sub. Remember, and 8incher isn't much at all.
At one point I had my Kicker impulse 352xi running my rear 6x9's crossed as subs, and there was no impact, tightness, or speed, but they did the job decently well.
That is *okay*, but I would suggest getting a lower powered 4 chanenl amp with built in crossovers, so you can run one voice coil as a sub (and lowpass-cross it at say 80hz) and the other voice coil as a "mid" and run it from say 80hz and up. That would keep your SQ going, and will still give you a reasonable bass.
In the ideal SQ setup, you have really good fronts that play everything (bass, mids, highs), rears that play no bass or no highs (NONE at all, only midrange), and a sub in the trunk crossed over very low. In this setup, you coudl keep your stock 6x9's, upgrade your fronts to some nice components, and keep your 8inch sub. I would recommend that you rebuild the box to a ported one, just so you can gain some more SPL, if you wanna take the trouble.
Hmmm that gives me alot to think on... Right now, the stock 6x9's are not boxed, how can I box them and still keep them in the emcloser? What would it sound like if I got those blaus, and ran one set of coils on the deck (blau rpd435) and the other set on the amp?
I will definatley get the specs from that crossfire and PM you with them, once I have a chance to pull the box open.
thanks for all your advice, you have been really helpful
I will definatley get the specs from that crossfire and PM you with them, once I have a chance to pull the box open.
thanks for all your advice, you have been really helpful
a box is an enclosure, just another name for it
I'm pretty sure you've seen the $15 a pair 6x9 boxes, those would do fine for your setup....if you can get them to fit!
That would probably be the best way to go...if you can't get good speakers up front. The fronts are ALWAYS the most important, no matter what.
NP
I'm pretty sure you've seen the $15 a pair 6x9 boxes, those would do fine for your setup....if you can get them to fit!
That would probably be the best way to go...if you can't get good speakers up front. The fronts are ALWAYS the most important, no matter what.
NP
Rockwood is crap. They use the Name to try and confuse the uniformed consumer into thinking it's Rockfor-Fosgate, just like they use the XPlor line to confuse the uninformed consumer into thinking it's Sony XPlod (not all that great either, but highly advertised).
At least those Punch subs aren't the paper cone crap they sell!
If you have a decent OEM stereo and want to add a little tight Bass to it, but are on a budget, the best way to go is to add a nice 10" sub, like a JL W0 in a sealed box and a decent small amp to drive it. The are SQ and SPL fanatics that will tell you that you need $2000 systems to start with, but what you want and need is what really matters.
There are alot of lesser known amp brands, and weeding through them is confusing. Many of the well known audio brands, such as Kenwood, Pioneer, JBL, Power Accoustics, Clarion, Panasonic, Phillips, and others use Sound Around as the manufacturer of their amps, confusing things even more.
Go to the Web Site of the manufacturers and compare the specs. If you don't have pre-outs on your head unit, you'll need an amp that has speaker level inputs. RMS power should be given with all channels driven. If it's a class AB amp, THD should be under 0.05% at rated RMS power. Signal to Noise ratio should be >90db at rated RMS power. It is important that they specify these at rated RMS power. If they don't give these specs, consider them to be crap, they are obviously embarased to publish the specs. Look for a 2 channel amp that can be bridged ( most can ). While THD is less important for a sub amp, this helps give you an idea of the quality of the amp. Class D amps are more efficient and mono amps made expressly for driving a sub offer great power, but don't expect the specs to match those of a AB amp.
If you buy a major brand, you will pay for the name, MTX and RF amps are nice, but over priced.
HiFonics, USAccoustics, Phoenix Gold, and Precision Power make some nice mid-level amps in my opinion.
my 2 cents worth, I hope this helps
At least those Punch subs aren't the paper cone crap they sell!
If you have a decent OEM stereo and want to add a little tight Bass to it, but are on a budget, the best way to go is to add a nice 10" sub, like a JL W0 in a sealed box and a decent small amp to drive it. The are SQ and SPL fanatics that will tell you that you need $2000 systems to start with, but what you want and need is what really matters.
There are alot of lesser known amp brands, and weeding through them is confusing. Many of the well known audio brands, such as Kenwood, Pioneer, JBL, Power Accoustics, Clarion, Panasonic, Phillips, and others use Sound Around as the manufacturer of their amps, confusing things even more.
Go to the Web Site of the manufacturers and compare the specs. If you don't have pre-outs on your head unit, you'll need an amp that has speaker level inputs. RMS power should be given with all channels driven. If it's a class AB amp, THD should be under 0.05% at rated RMS power. Signal to Noise ratio should be >90db at rated RMS power. It is important that they specify these at rated RMS power. If they don't give these specs, consider them to be crap, they are obviously embarased to publish the specs. Look for a 2 channel amp that can be bridged ( most can ). While THD is less important for a sub amp, this helps give you an idea of the quality of the amp. Class D amps are more efficient and mono amps made expressly for driving a sub offer great power, but don't expect the specs to match those of a AB amp.
If you buy a major brand, you will pay for the name, MTX and RF amps are nice, but over priced.
HiFonics, USAccoustics, Phoenix Gold, and Precision Power make some nice mid-level amps in my opinion.
my 2 cents worth, I hope this helps
Yup all of this has been really helpful so far.. one of the problems I have is, If I get those 6x9 where would I put the boxes? I have a 98 civic ex coupe.... and it has 6x9 enclosres... why cant I put them in there?
oh BTW right now I have a pair of entry level blaupunkt 6.5 + the factory tweeters up front... they are not great, but they arent crap either....
I accidentally poked a hole in one cone, but I covered it with electrical tape, and it seems to be fine... I know I know, that really sux, but I didnt do it on purpose.
I accidentally poked a hole in one cone, but I covered it with electrical tape, and it seems to be fine... I know I know, that really sux, but I didnt do it on purpose.
The Lanzar OPTI series amps are nice. This one is their entry level VIBE series. I don't have any experience with it, but my guess is that it is a nice amp for someone on a tight budget. Lanzer should be way better than pyramid, lightning audio, or some other amps in this price range.
Ok, so would the lanzer be a better choice than the rockford fosgate 100.2? And what about the enclosure question
I doubt the 6x9's enclosure is solid (IE; wood), so you would still gain a lot by using a wooden one, again, if it can fit. Otherwise use the plastic one that's already there.
I would think the Lanzar would be ok, but I think the RF is still better. The Vibe's are a LOT crappier than the Opti's. a LOT.
Here's a nice Class A soundstream amp on eBay; you want more quality than power, especially considering they're 6x9's.
I would think the Lanzar would be ok, but I think the RF is still better. The Vibe's are a LOT crappier than the Opti's. a LOT.
Here's a nice Class A soundstream amp on eBay; you want more quality than power, especially considering they're 6x9's.
Hmmm what if I were using the 8inch sub but not the 6x9? is the rf still better then? Anyway.... the speakers dont really have an enclosure, right now they are mounted stock in the back ledge under the window, and that on the other side is simply open to the trunk... should I find a way to close them off?? if so how?
<< Hmmm what if I were using the 8inch sub but not the 6x9? is the rf still better then? Anyway.... the speakers dont really have an enclosure, right now they are mounted stock in the back ledge under the window, and that on the other side is simply open to the trunk... should I find a way to close them off?? if so how? >>
the 8incher where?
You can mount it in the place of the 6x9's, and it would operate in what's called an "infinite baffle".
That's where the woofers front and back waves are completely seperated from each other, and you usually end up getting very clean, deep bass (but not very loud). Plus you have to be very careful with the volume because you can easily push them too far.
glen did this in his BMW, and apparently he likes it a lot
<< Wrong Forum. >>
I suppose it'd be better off in netoworking?
Sorry, had to try the new rolls eyes emoction
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