Is soldering copper pipe difficult?

[ManBearPig]

deleted

 

[spaceman]

make sure its dry

 

[deanx0r]

if you going in

 

[highland145]

Like space said. No water dripping.

Emory cloth the male, get a wire brush for the female, flux. Heat the center of the coupling, the solder will be drawn in.


edit: if you can't keep the water from dripping out, shove some white bread in the pipe. After you're done, remove 1 faucet strainer and turn it on. Then turn on the main water to blow out the bread.

 

[nickbits]

I had no trouble the first time I did it. If you are moderately handy it shouldn't be an issue. Just don't burn down your house.

 

[highland145]

wet rag on the pipe as a heat sink if you're worried about heat/fire.

 

[wirednuts]

the key is to sand it with abrasive cloth first to get it clean, then put a generous amount of flux on it. fit the pieces together, and apply heat to one side, then circle around to the back to get it evenly heated. you want to wait a few seconds to make sure the metal is hot enough, but you dont want to go too long so that the flux is burnt away completely. if youre using mapp gas, its basically 5 seconds of heat and then you have 5 seconds before the flux starts to dry up.

so, heat, both sides, and the flux should be bubbling out. apply solder and watch it suck into the joint. youll know when you have enough solder because it stops sucking up into the joint. remove heat, wait about 3 seconds and wipe joint with wet rag for a clean look.

 

[Schmide]

white bread

 

[highland145]

white bread

Hi.

 

[Gillbot]

Dont let it get too hot!

Otherwise it isn't bard but can be tricky.

 

[lxskllr]

Do you put the solder in at one point, or do you have to move it around the joint?

 

[highland145]

Dont let it get too hot!

Otherwise it isn't bard but can be tricky.

Heat it while holding the the solder to the joint. When it melts and wicks in, it's hot enough. Simple.

 

[highland145]

Do you put the solder in at one point, or do you have to move it around the joint?

It will wick around the whole joint, assuming it's cleaned/fluxed.

 

[ManBearPig]

deleted

 

[highland145]

Lowes.com

Edit: Seriously, clean the copper or you will fail.

 

[lxskllr]

It will wick around the whole joint, assuming it's cleaned/fluxed.

Thanks. I've never sweat soldered, but it's something I'd like to try, just to add to my skill list. It seems easy enough as long as you do it right. IOW, easy enough, that you don't have to call someone out to do it for big $

 

[disappoint]

Use silver solder so you don't get any lead in your water supply.

The tools are inexpensive, and you can find them in almost any hardware store or home center.

Some tips:
http://www.familyhandyman.com/DIY-P...ing-Skills/how-to-solder-copper-pipe/View-All

 

[highland145]

Thanks. I've never sweat soldered, but it's something I'd like to try, just to add to my skill list. It seems easy enough as long as you do it right. IOW, easy enough, that you don't have to call someone out to do it for big $

My bro, the plumber of 35 years, will charge $85/hr to sweat your pipes. He's a master but some things us ignoramuses can do.

 

[ManBearPig]

deleted

 

[Gillbot]

Heat it while holding the the solder to the joint. When it melts and wicks in, it's hot enough. Simple.

Yeah I know, but many people just blast the parts with heat and get the joint too hot to begin with. Or they point the flame at the solder and melt it before the joint gets warm enough to wick the solder in.

 

[SearchMaster]

the key is to sand it with abrasive cloth first to get it clean, then put a generous amount of flux on it. fit the pieces together, and apply heat to one side, then circle around to the back to get it evenly heated. you want to wait a few seconds to make sure the metal is hot enough, but you dont want to go too long so that the flux is burnt away completely. if youre using mapp gas, its basically 5 seconds of heat and then you have 5 seconds before the flux starts to dry up.

so, heat, both sides, and the flux should be bubbling out. apply solder and watch it suck into the joint. youll know when you have enough solder because it stops sucking up into the joint. remove heat, wait about 3 seconds and wipe joint with wet rag for a clean look.

MAPP gas? Good luck with that. Today's fake MAPP is just enhanced propane but not as hot as real MAPP. Propane is fine for sweat soldering - which is actually fun IMO.

 

[bryanl]

Use silver solder so you don't get any lead in your water supply.

It's not necessary for solder to contain silver to be lead-free, and another type of plumbing solder is made of tin and antimony, which is distinguished by being harder than other plumbing solders, a characteristic I prefer since it makes it impossible to confuse with leaded solder, which is still being sold.

Do you put the solder in at one point, or do you have to move it around the joint?

Ideally you put the solder in at the side opposite the torch flame, and when it melts it will automatically seep toward the hot side. Stop adding solder when you see it fill the joint at the flame side.

It is very important to avoid burning down the house. Place a heat shield between the pipe and any wall. A piece of plain steel (not painted or galvanized) will work, but aluminum will melt.

 

[wirednuts]

Do you put the solder in at one point, or do you have to move it around the joint?

realisticly, it almost always soaks around if you just add it at one point.

but, because its so annoying to have a leak when youre done, most people draw the solder around the joint to make sure it takes all the way around. i do it like that too, because you just want to be 100% its in there good.

 

[wirednuts]

My bro, the plumber of 35 years, will charge $85/hr to sweat your pipes. He's a master but some things us ignoramuses can do.

its usually worth $85 if youre most people though. if you never done it before, then you have little chance doing properly the first time. which means whatever youre doing better not be important, but if its anything that is tied to your water system then its high pressure.

the risks go up expoentially depending on the age of pipe and location of pipe.

 

[lxskllr]

its usually worth $85 if youre most people though. if you never done it before, then you have little chance doing properly the first time. which means whatever youre doing better not be important, but if its anything that is tied to your water system then its high pressure.

the risks go up expoentially depending on the age of pipe and location of pipe.

The way I look at it, I can do almost anything a minimum of twice and still make out over calling a pro. I figure that into the equation, and count the time into my education fund. If I fuck it up, I take it apart and try again. I've never lost on that, but I have come close to breaking even, with the knowledge gained pushing me into the positive territory.

I still don't do complicated auto work. Maintenance stuff I can do, but when it comes to breaking down a motor or tranny, I'm too far over my head.