Is my motherboard bad?

[Skypix7]

I sure hope someone's got some "a-ha!" bit of advice because my next step is calling Asus, and you know what a clusterfoo that can be.

I've been through a lot of discouraging BSODs since my new build. Rarely used the computer without having at least one per work session

I've talked about this on another thread, things calmed down a bit after implementing suggestions, but I'd still get BSOD every hour or two, no matter, it seems, what I did.

After yet another series of BSODs today (almost always x000000f4 variety) I thought I'd recable the drives and see if that might help.

Now, after the board POSTed properly, ASUS splash screen and beeped etc., I got a black screen with a white line upper left corner and nothing else.

Went into bios, checked all my settings, couldn't see exactly what was wrong. Tried a couple more times. POST, but no system...maybe no system drive?

Went back into bios. Indeed, I'd somehow overlooked that the boot drive and all the other drives except the two DVD burners weren't showing at all in bios!

Earlier, in addition to changing out some of the SATA cables to make sure I had new ones on all the SSD drives, including the boot drive, I'd also used a different power cable from my NZXT PSU to the four SSD drives I have in the box. "Maybe that's it," I thought. I rebooted once more, just to double check the bios...and this time no POST!

That's why I'm wondering if maybe I've had a bad board all along. I've done everything imaginable that people on the forum have suggested. It just seems like it's twitchy. It'll work fine for an hour or two..or give me a BSOD on boot, before Windows even loads. I reboot...and it loads just fine and works for an hour or two, sometimes but rarely for three or four...next time, it might crash on boot again, or five minutes after I open a program...then work, after another reboot (I must have cold booted 300 times already in 3 weeks), for an hour or two and shut down normally with no problems.

Also, I reconnected the original power cables and disconnected everything except the C: drive...no POST. Powers up fine, all the fans run...no POST.

If anybody's got any ideas, I'd appreciate any advice. Wondering if it's time to reset the CMOS and try again. This is the most frustrating build I've ever had, never had these kinds of problems before, or for such a long period of time.

More info:

System: ASUS P8Z68 V Pro/Gen3. BIOS successfully flashed to 0402
CPU: i7 2600K, not overclocked, although I've tried it automatically a couple times with success, up to about 4.4.
16GB Crucial memory (2x8GB) passed all memtests.
2 Corsair Force GT 240GB SSD drives (one is the boot drive, both have the latest firmware, and yes, I switched off the C3 and C6 CPU power settings as that was implicated by other forum members. It helped but didn't remove the BSOD mania.
Corsair Force GT 90GB SSD, latest firmware
Kingston 128GB VNow SSD
Also, the C: SSD is connected to the Intel SATA3 onboard connectors. I had the DVDs running off the Marvell SATA3 (also with latest drivers), which seemed to work okay, but even when I disabled the Marvell ports, the BSOD kept coming.)
Sapphire Vapor-X HD 5770 video card with latest drivers (1GB GDDR5)
NZXY 850 gold PSU
NZXT Phantom full tower case (very nice case)
Man, what a headache, sure hope someone can help, and thanks in advance.

 

[stahlhart]

Have you tried just the bare minimum, outside-of-the-case setup -- motherboard, power supply, CPU & cooler, one stick of RAM, GPU, optical drive (to install Windows) boot drive, and nothing else?

 

[Skypix7]

Have you tried just the bare minimum, outside-of-the-case setup -- motherboard, power supply, CPU & cooler, one stick of RAM, GPU, optical drive (to install Windows) boot drive, and nothing else?

Not yet, still in the case. Tomorrow I guess. Just pulled video card, all but one stick memory, reset CMOS again, even unplugged video. Red VGA LED lights up with no monitor plugged in and no video card.

I think the board is baby teething bisquit.

 

[Skypix7]

I have the board out, doing a basic breadboard test (same as I did when I built it) and no matter which memory slot I try, and cycling through the MEM OK button levels (ever-faster flashing red DRAM LED), the red VGA LED comes on at the end of each cycle after the CPU and DRAM leds flash, and stays on. At the end of the cycles in the MEM OK search (I'm assuming that's what it is, there's nothing I could find in the manual), the VGA LED stays on.

I'm calling ASUS now, will report back.

 

[stahlhart]

Was wondering how you were doing with this -- thanks for the update...

 

[Skypix7]

Thanks stahlhart, I just spent a very frustrating half hour with ASUS tech, I swear the guy didn't know half what I've learned, how do they train these people? With wooden blocks with letters on them?

After taking 20 minutes to confirm to him that yes, indeed, the red VGA LED light was, yes indeed, staying on when the others were flashing (it took him ten minutes to understand, after three complete cycles of me explaining everything I'd done, that yes, indeed, the CPU and DRAM leds were supposed to flash then go off and that yes, indeed, the VGA LED did not go off, but stayed on, even after pulling the board and base testing it.

Then another 10 minutes of him telling me it was a problem because there was no serial number sticker on the board.

I ended up having to take and email 10 photos to him and will call him back...he didn't even offer to call me...after I got testy and said, what do you think, I had the boar counterfeited in Africa or somethinhg? I've got the serial on the box I got from Newegg, if the sticker was never put on or fell off between the box and my computer case (which I sure as hell would have noticed), it'snowhere to be found - which tookhim 10 minutes to believe - and thus the photo BS and now what? What a pain, this guy was a complete zero in the customer service dept., literally and figuratively.

his email is at some company called pegatron, they must be outsourced troubleshooters for Asus or something, but jeez, this guy wasn't even polite, I had to keep asking him if he was even still on the line!

Anyway, they'll RMA and I think in the meantime I'll just go out and buy somethihng else, pay the price at the big box store, so I don't have to wait another damn week on top of the 6 I've spent on this system so far, thinking it was everything else when it was the failing mobo all along! Arrrggghhhhh! He says, with gusto.

 

[bankster55]

Pegatron is the company that manufactures the ASRock and ASUS mobo. Strange you would get email from them in U.S.
http://www.engadget.com/2009/12/14/asustek-to-spin-off-motherboard-and-gpu-business-under-pegatron/

Have had red vga before several times (I build a lot of SB systems), that means dead mobo. I always use Fremont, Ca, phone #, and offer CC# to gain crosship option. If I get transfered to another branch, like Indiana, I just ask again for Fremont - may have to wait 20 min.or more.They do not accept mobo without plastic socket protector, or RMA # on label.
Fwiw, I buy all mobo from Amazon, has the best return system of all (under 45 days ownership), all totally automated online with free ship labels printouts and they use your original purchase CC# to allow instant ship, even remind you to send out old mobo by email.

Suggest you read this very carefully before new reinstall.
http://www.intel.com/support/processors/sb/CS-030850.htm

 

[Skypix7]

Thanks Bankster, I checked out the link, some things on there I wasn't aware of and will use those when I do the build again.
I'm mightily frustrated of course. Could I ask you for some advice since you do this a lot? I'm really kind of freaked to be 6 weeks from ordering my system and still have components spread all over the place and no working computer.
I do love the board, lots of cool features on it, but really dismayed and ticked off with tech support and of course with a failure that took 5 weeks to manifest that didn't look like other components...so here I am looking again for a board, and I want one that has a lot of the features of the pro/gen3...can you recommend any others?
My priorities:
I'm not a gamer. I don't need to overclock though will if I can do it as effortlessly as it seems to be these days. I need solid Photoshop and Lightroom capability, i.e. speed is important. the Corsair Force GT 240GB SDDs I have (2) with current firmware are awesome on the Intel SATA3 ports, would like that kind of performance to continue.
I want to be able to use the 16GB (2x8gb) memory from Crucial which seems very stable...although at this point after all these nagging problems I'm not sure of anything and don't want to build a second career as a tech problem solver.
I have the i7 2600K so has to have 1155 socket
I have the Radeon HD5770 video which works well for my two monitors, it's pcie-16
want as much sata3 as I can get (I have four SSDs), although can live with the 2 smaller ones on sata2 rather than futz with Marvell again if need be.
Want plenty of USB, although don't need a lot of USB3 at this point.

And the other nagging question: I bought OEM Win 7 Pro, which is tagged as I understand it to that particular motherboard...or is it the cpu it's identified by? I don't mind haggling with Microsoft if I have to, to get my system already installed on the SSD to activiate on the new board...but what kinds of complexities am I asking for?
Would it just be best to take a chance again on the exact same board model?
will that minimize the odds that I'll have to completely reinstall the OS and all the drivers again?

Thanks, that's a lot of questions but I really need to hear from someone who knows what they're talking about and I'm guessing from this and past very helpful posts you and some other folks have made that you might be willing to spend some time setting me straight.
This has all been very frustrating but I'm not giving up, just haven't got another 6 weeks to play armchair techie and itinerant forum browser trying to get a good running system. thanks much.

 

[bankster55]

Win 7 makes a HW hash when first installed
Each device has a certain point value
Too many changes and you are violating single machine Win 7 useage.
Mobo has most points value. And Win 7 knows even when its exact same model.
But you never know until Win 7 gives you the non gen message on desktop and/or black backround.
Prob wont happen until you do your first Win 7 update.
Of course if you turn off Win Update service in services it will never happen.
However you can do the MS live phone revalidate, and tell them your mobo went bad, was replaced and they will ask for the 24 character ID # you get with the MGA tool, and will be given a new serial. And i have never known them to turn down anyone - whole thing takes 5 min. Painless.

I seriously doubt you will get another bad vga v-pro
The ones I got I blame on HS backplate shortings during my learning curve..
Personally I would get a P8Z68 deluxe
Flip on the TPU switch and reboot a coupla times and you will be doing 4.4GHz no prob.
Do not use AI Suite

I would use a single Intel SSD on Intel port #1 for O/S to stay away from Sandforce controllers. The fastest one avail now is 500/350 which is plenty good. Buy smallest size.
Then some Samsung 2TB spinners, or 1TB WDC FEAX
Use a Corsair H60-80-100 watercooler - the backplate doesnt even touch the mobo (useable if your case is roomy enough)

The most issues appear by poor plastic protector removal, handling of CPU and CPU pin socket damage. Those are your most critical operations. Heres what I use. The pins are more fragile than you can believe!
http://www.howardelectronics.com/virtual/HVKITII.html
The protector has to be ROTATED out of the way. Straight up may touch a pin
Never ever install/remove CPU/protector when distracted, you must be focused.

Then comes RAM being inserted straight down. I prefer to hook it under the sideways v shaped spring steel retainer on left side, avoiding pressure needed there, and just forcing stick leftwards more and more and then finish rotating downwards right side. If it goes in extremely hard you are doing something wrong. Might be worth some practice with mobo out of box to see what works best for you, see which slot is tightest. Not using excessive force installing RAM is another critical step in a no prob startup.

And NEVER EVER insert RAM with PSU still plugged in. No lights on mobo should be showing, if so push case "ON" button for count of 10. Rocker switch on "0" not acceptable.

Only use good SATA 6G cables with metal retainers (O.KGear at NE)

Make absolutely sure your case brass standoffs body length are 5/16" long. This allows your vidcard to go down fully and keeps HS backplate and component leads away from case sheetmetal. Most modern cases come with these, but some use older cases, or standoffs from past (1/4")

If you stay in same chipset Z68, you wont need to reinstall.

I might mention that the X79 2011 mobo have no backplate (except for R4E), HS bolts right to top of socket. DUH!!
And the plastic protector is now in the clamp plate.
DUH!!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W8jogtOzw6Y

 

[Skypix7]

Bankster, that's awesome, thank you very much for taking the time to help me out of the forest. specific replies below...

...
However you can do the MS live phone revalidate
will do
I seriously doubt you will get another bad vga v-pro
The ones I got I blame on HS backplate shortings during my learning curve..
Personally I would get a P8Z68 deluxe
Wow, it's another $160 on Newegg now...that's pretty steep. More stable board? Has 15% 1 egg on Newegg in reviews. EDIT: wrong, just $60 more, but that's the deluxe/gen3, they're out of stock on the deluxe...Amazon has it...for $292
EDIT: I was looking at the wrong board, deluxe/gen 3, you mean straight deluxe, right?
Seems nearly identical to pro/gen3 except for a couple things I don't need....and has two more USB 2 ports which is good for me, I have a lot of peripherals
Flip on the TPU switch and reboot a coupla times and you will be doing 4.4GHz no prob.
Only the TPU, not the EPU?
Do not use AI Suite
Tried to uninstall in Win 7 control panel Programs before the board went all the way south, but couldn't find it.
I would use a single Intel SSD on Intel port #1 for O/S to stay away from Sandforce controllers. The fastest one avail now is 500/350 which is plenty good. Buy smallest size.
I was getting 559/530 with the Corsair Force GT but you think the SF firmware still isn't reliable? What would symptoms be? (frequent BSOD for example? :-/ )
Then some Samsung 2TB spinners, or 1TB WDC FEAX
I've got a few 2TBs for image storage (I'm a photographer).
Use a Corsair H60-80-100 watercooler - the backplate doesnt even touch the mobo (useable if your case is roomy enough)
I've got a big, stormtroopery white NZXT Phantom full tower, plenty of room; my HSF is CoolerMaster Hyper212 plus, bit of a hassle to get it on...watercooler hmm? I'll check it out.
The most issues appear by poor plastic protector removal, handling of CPU and CPU pin socket damage. Those are your most critical operations. Heres what I use. The pins are more fragile than you can believe!
http://www.howardelectronics.com/virtual/HVKITII.html
The protector has to be ROTATED out of the way. Straight up may touch a pin
You mean rotated up at front like Intel recommends, yes? Not rotated as in spinning on the horizontal plane, that wouldn't make sense.
Never ever install/remove CPU/protector when distracted, you must be focused.
Cool unit. But this link you sent me at Intel says
Caution Do not use a vacuum pen for installation...but that's installation for the cpu, not removing the protective cap I gather.
Then comes RAM being inserted straight down - which it cant because one side is locked. You have to hook it under on left and rotate down slightly on right and move left as far as possible, and finish rotating down. I have seen guys break ram sticks by doing it wrong. If it goes in hard you are doing it wrong.
Yeah, that's a bit of a leap of faith. I had no problem installing first 4x4GB GSkill sticks, then replaced with the two Crucial 8GB sticks, but it is tricky...that's how I fried my P5w dh deluxe that started this whole fiasco...got too frisky putting the mem back in after a hard drive change in my old small case and fried that board.
I never like the way the board bends down putting in memory. Using the mobo box allows too much flex, I think static bag on wood is maybe better for next build, agree?
Only use good SATA 6G cables with metal retainers (O.KGear at NE)
Have those, thanks. Even so, the metal clips didn't lock onto any of the three Corsair SSDs, only the Kingston, was a little nervous about that but the side panel and tiedowns kept everything in place.
Make absolutely sure your case brass standoffs body legth are 5/16" long. This allows your vidcard to go down fully and keeps HS backplate and component leads away from case sheetmetal.
The ones that come with the case seem right. Also case is enameled in white on inside, very nice.
If you stay in same chipset Z68, you wont need to reinstall.
Yes!

Thanks again bankster55, if you can answer any of the q's above, pure gravy, appreciate the expert help very much.

 

[bankster55]

sorry, meant gen 3. Why? Will prob have more bios updates
yeah the v-pro is a lower level board/cheaper
Deluxe is $259 no tax free ship at Amazon at this minute - the only place I buy mobo. V pro 3 is $37 less
http://www.amazon.com/ASUS-LGA-1155-...6024819&sr=8-1
Only you can know what you can afford.
no EPU, thats energy saving
yeah rotating foward, the key is to never allow anything to touch the pins under any condition. It may happen when you dont even realize it.
vacuum pen is not rcommended, because some have tips that can give ESD and have tiny/angled tips that are hard to control, some are battery operated. As long as its rubber and large (1/2"), passive, and straight, its O.K.
The cable clips are for the flimsy plastic mobo right angle SATA sockets primarily, and be careful you dont hairline crack them.
As I've said in threads here before, I personally would never use a CM 212+ or EVO under any condition. I would use any Noctua for air cooling, but once again, more expensive.
AI Suite setup is the install/uninstall wizard
Intel SSD never have intermittent detection/disappear probs. Its their controller on SSD and also on mobo chipset.
Set all Intel ports in bios to "hotplug" except DVD which should be on Intel port #6. Turn off ALL controllers in bios not in use (important) during original install, then you must install Marvel drivers after Win 7 install and they must show in device manager, even tho its disabled to clear out IDE ATA ATAPI controllers, leaving only single Intel

This isnt quantum physics, its just a dumb mobo, You are spending way too much time analyzing on this. Think about it like getting a tooth pulled, once its out of the way you can get on with your life.
Just use a dif HSF, be exceptionally careful with CPU/protector, unplug PSU (trickle voltage), dont force RAM (if you are bending mobo you are doing it wrong), only use complete matched RAM kits, not multiple kits, use TPU for O/C, stay away from sandforce SSD, only use Port 1 Intel for O/S, make absolutely sure you use correct marked CPU fan header.

You picked the wrong time to jump in, these boards have quite a learning curve, even for very experienced users.

Heres all the latest drivers (click on spoiler)
http://www.overclock.net/t/1042186/...on-thread-drivers-bioses-overclocking-reviews

 

[Skypix7]

Super, thank you again, yeah, learning curve indeed. I coulda read Moby Dick 3 times over just with scouring the net trying to absorb the nuances.

Will get the deluxe gen 3 then, others you suggest, maybe sell the corsairs or use for programs, I do like them.

Re CPU fan, I had the double fan ganged together with a y adapter and plugged into CPU fan, not CPU fan opt, that was correct, yes?

Again, thanks somuch for shining the light up that learning curve.