Is Asus Probe accurate? 1.1gz Tbird on A7V = scorching

[Pluto]

I put together a system using the Asus A7V board, and a 1.1ghz Athlon. I know that the Chrome Orb isn't the best HSF around but I wasn't planning on doing any overclocking, and the people at the store assured me it would be sufficient.

I find that my CPU is running between 60-68C according to Asus Probe, and the machine is locking up frequently. The people at the store agreed with me that this is far too hot, and suggested I exchange the Chrome Orb for the Super Orb instead, but I'm still not convinced this will be enough.

Could there be something wrong with my A7V perhaps? I had a 1.0ghz chip for a few days (cause the dumbasses gave me the wrong chip even though I paid for 1.1ghz, but they exchanged it NP) and the temps were similar so I don't think its just a bad chip. Both chips were OEM.

The other thing that comes to mind is can the Asus Probe software be trusted? I check the BIOS and it seems to be around the same values as Asus Probe is reporting.

I believe my A7V is v1.04, at least im pretty sure its the newer revision that has the CPU temp sensor built into the board (according to the manual the older ones had a temp probe).

I think I will get a FOP38 rather than the Super ORB if cooling really is the issue but I wouldn't expect a CPU to run at over 65C unless there was something wrong. Any guidance would be appreciated.

 

[Pluto]

Oh, one other thing I forgot to mention. I built a system for a friend using the MSI K7T Pro2A and a 1.0ghz Athlon a month or so ago. Also used the Chrome Orb on that system, and found that the temperature was typically 30-40C (and I thought that was alot then)

 

[ericd]

First things first:

1. Did you take the blue tape off the bottom?

2. Are you using a TIM, Thermal Paste, or nothing at all (please don't say Peanut Butter)

3. Have you checked the voltage....are you running it too high?

4. hmmmmmmm have you verified the fan is running (hey I know it sounds dumn but I have seen one specific normally competent do it so you never know.....Galen you know who you are.)


Usually the BIOS is as accurate as they come temperature readings through build in means. The only way to prove for sure if it is wrong would be to put a CompuNurse or CPView or something similar in and see what it says, an infrared heat gun would also work well for this task. Also if it is running at 68C then the heatsink should be pretty hot to the touch so that would be a valid check too (ground yourself first of course). If the heatsink isn't warm then either:

A. The reading is wrong.

B. The heat is never getting to the heatsink (refer to 1. and 2.)

Whatever the result I would suggest ditching the Chrorb for an Alpha PAL6035 or GW FOP32 or a Taisol or something comperable like that. Especially if paired with a low noise Adda or Panaflo fan any of the three would outperform and be quieter than the orb.

Eric

 

[toph99]

that souds a bit high, but i wouldn't be surprised. i'd check what ericd had suggested. i wouldn't use a super or chrome orb on a 1.1ghz tbird, i'd look at getting a Taisol or a Global Win FOP32-1, it would be worth the money for the peace of mind

 

[Pluto]

1. There wasnt any blue tape on the bottom, just a patch of white thermal paste

2. I am only using the thermal paste that was on the chrome orb

3. I haven't checked it lately but I will. What voltage should it be at? I never changed anything so I *assume* it is running at the default.

4. I have visually verified the fan is turning, and the RPM is reported OK in the bios

I can't recall if I tried to feel the heatsink temperature, I think I may have and recall it being warm but not HOT to the touch, so perhaps you're right about the heat not getting to it. What can I do to fix that?

 

[ericd]

When you take the Chrome Orb off is the thermal paste messed up and have only a VERY thin layer where the processor would be. If it looks untouched or there is still a thick layer of paste then the heatsink isn't making good contact with the core. If it was noticably warm even then the core is probably making at least descent contact though. Really about the only thing I can suggest is to double check that voltage, and sorry I don't know what it should be as I don't have my T-Bird system yet. Beyond that....pick up a better heatsink like a Taisol Alpha or GW and consider some ArticSilver as well.

Eric

 

[Mikewarrior2]

First things first, your A7V readings cannot be compared to your friends MSI board readings. MSI boards will read at least 12C lower than an A7V comparing exactly the same setup at exactly the same ambient case temp.

Second thing, whoever told you the c-orb would be sufficient for 1.1ghz is blowing smoke up your @ss. Past 1ghz, unless you have a super-cold case, it isn't going to be effective anymore. They must be relying on the thermaltake website claiming 1.2ghz for the c-orb(which is a complete joke).

I would recommend returning the heatsink. NO, the super-orb isn't really that great either. If you want to go with a low-cost heatsink, look at the taisol cek733092(teh retail t-bird heatsink). It performs better than both orbs.


Mike

 

[Electricice]

i have teh smaew problem my a7v and 1 ghz chip seem to be very hot where do i go about purchasing this great heatsink fan combo you keep mentioning

 

[Pluto]

When I take the Orb off I can definitely see an indentation in the paste where the core is sitting, and you're right it is quite thin. According to Asus Probe its running at 1.8v, but what is the right level anyway?

I suppose its probably just that the Orb isn't cutting it. I'll have to get the GW FOP38 but its expen$ive. Oh, BTW that computer shop that sold me the Orb told me the FOP32 is only for the Intel socket 370 CPUs and FOP38 is only for AMD SocketA, is that true? The Globalwin site doesn't really concur with that. FOP32 is a bit cheaper and quieter if it performs well (better than Chrome/Super ORB) then I might go for that.

Trouble is all these great HSFs like the Taisol aren't really available in Canada, at least that I can find, and ordering from the US can be a costly proposition.

 

[Electricice]

pluto maybe we can make a deal since i am in the us and am having the same problem maybe you can get a seal for order more then one i dont know im not even sure where to get them but if you find anything like thi let me know and then maybe i can send on to you.

 

[Pluto]

Electricice: I'm not sure I understand that message, and if I do, I don't know that it makes much sense. It's probably going to cost me just as much or more to get you to ship it to me ??? Thanks anyways though.

I emailed Taisol.com to ask how much shipping to Canada is, since they do state they will ship here but they don't say how much extra it is. The CEK733092 is only $11.30 US so if that will cut it (It is AMD recommended up to 1.2ghz) and if shipping is reasonable I'll probably just order from them and hope I don't get charged duty. Otherwise I'll get one of the FOPs (32 or 38?? are either OK on 1.1ghz Tbird?)

 

[johneetrash]

arent the CEK hsf on retail amd cpus? i dunno but i forgot

 

[XMan]

I had the same problem with heat and lockups when I used an orb on my 1GHz Athlon.

It's pretty, but it's still a piece of shi+. pay the 30 bucks and get a FOP38, or go for a FOP32. They're the same heatsink with differing fans (38 CFM vs. 32)

 

[DoctorBooze]

Pluto, the FOP32 wasn't (iirc) AMD approved, but the FOP32-1 is; there's not all that much difference except the FOP32 heatsink is black and the FOP32-1 is silver. I think. FOP32, FOP32-1 and FOP38 all fit both socket 370 and socket A. The shop may be confusing the numbers, I did until I'd read up a lot (maybe I still am).

 

[Mikewarrior2]

Pluto,

The Chrome Orb simply is not cutting it. The Taisol CEK733092 is the retail heatsink on t-birds 900mhz to 1.2ghz. It will cut it. If you want something quiet, the taisol will do nicely.



Mike

 

[lenjack]

FOP32 and FOP-32 are identical except for 2 things....the color of the heatsink, which means nothing....and the mounting suface of the heatsink. FOP32 has a raised ridge that will not allow it to be seated properly on socket A. The FOP-32 doesn't have this ridge. Grinding off the FOP32 ridge effectively converts it into an FOP-32.

 

[Mule]

I have a Taisol 733 sitting on top of my 1.1 Ghz Athlon@1.6v and it maxes out at a comfortable 53Cwith a modded quieter panaflo fan(49C with default fan) . If you can cough up a few extra bucks I would suggest getting the Taisol 742(i think) which is much larger and may drop your temps even more for more comfort.

I personally like Taisol HSF because they are the quietest of the bunch, BTW I'm running the A7V v1.02

 

[Pluto]

Was thinking of ordering the Taisol CEK733092 since its pretty affordable, but noticed there is another model (besides the forged model) CEK734092, the only difference seems to be it is 80x60mm instead of 60x60mm. Is there an advantage to having the 80x60 model?

Taisol told me the shipping to Canada is around $9USD, so total price will be about $20USD ($30cdn) for the cheapest Taisol unit. Or I can get a FOP-32 locally for $40cdn, but I'm concerned about the loudness of that unit.

 

[silky]

Pluto: get rid of ORB. I have tried an Alpha, Hedgehog, and Taisol 80x60 model (yes it fit's the A7V). And my advice would be to get an Alpha with a Y/S Tech fan. There is little performance difference in any of the these Heatsinks, but I like the quality and fit of the Alpha over the others.

As far as setting, the A7V is a strange board as you will become aware the more you tweak it."1" Change the Voltage setting in the Bios to 1.70 volts, which will really be 1.75 volts, which is the stock setting for the Thunderbird 1.0 and up. Don't ask me why but the A7V adds .05 volts to the setting even on auto detect setting, thus your are currently running 1.80 volts if you are using auto detect in the bios."2" In the Advanced settings under Chip Configuration, make sure you have the PCI Master Read Caching "Enabled" this will lower your idle temp by 5c to 8c.

Good Luck and GET RID OF THAT ORB!!

 

[Pluto]

silky, I tried both those things you suggested. Actually the PCI Master Read Caching setting was already enabled, and I moved the voltage down to 1.7 (Asus Probe did pick it up as 1.75 like you said, geez thats dumb) but it didn't have any effect on the temperature. I still have the Orb on there just cause I haven't had a chance to get anything else due to the crummy weather up here.

I want to go pick up the FOP 32 today or tomorrow but I don't know how I can be sure I am getting the Socket A compatible version (the one without the ridge lenjack referrs to). I'd rather not have to do any grinding.

 

[Pluto]

Update: picked up a FOP32-1 as well as an 80mm case fan yesterday. Put it all together with the case fan blowing out the back (the case already had a fan in the front sucking air into the case).

Asus Probe now reports temps of 55-58C for the cpu, 28-30C for motherboard. Still seems a bit hot but it doesn't seem to be crashing under a full load. HOWEVER, if I restart the computer and go into bios and look at the temperature reading there it is only 41C !! I find it extremely hard to believe that in the time windows shuts down (not very long) and I get into bios and get to the hardware monitor screen that the CPU could drop in temperature 15C. So this gets me back to my original dillema, which is accurate, BIOS or Asus Probe?

 

[Mikewarrior2]

If you could measure core temps on an AMD chip, those type of temp drops would be common,

But isnce its a socket-thermistor reading, is the heatsink mounted flat on the cpu?


Mike

 

[Mikewarrior2]

If you could measure core temps on an AMD chip, those type of temp drops would be common,

But isnce its a socket-thermistor reading, is the heatsink mounted flat on the cpu?


Mike

 

[cjhrph]

My A7V133 reads anywhere from 36-45 c in the bios depending upon the load and whether or not the case is closed or open. Im using the PAL6035 w/arctic silver. CPU cool seems to give the same readings as the bios for me. I think the ASUS Pcprobe program isn't even in the ballpark.

 

[Unbornchicken]

I have a t-bird 750 OCed to 1GHz and am using the alpha pep66 (on an abit kt7a) and it reads 25C (so i guess the alpha is a good choice )

oh, it reads 35C under full load (case temp fluxuates between 23 and 27C)