Investigations into Wavemaster modding...

[996GT2]

The wavemaster is considered by many to be one of the best looking cases out there. However, its cooling abilities leave a lot to be desired. With only 1 paltry 80mm exhaust fan in the rear and two partially blocked off 80mm intake fans in the front, an overclocked system with many fast components would certainly run hot. So, following in the steps of someone else in this forum (jojo?), I set out to mod my Wavemaster

First of all...if you don't want to waste $20-30 on a bi-metal hole saw, go to Menards and get the following tool; Menards is the only place that I know of to carry this tool. It should be in the section with the hole saws. This tool mounts to any standard power drill just like a hole saw would, but be warned that you should have a good drill with a decent amount of torque to run this tool, or else you'll stall the drill constantly. Even a 14.4V Hitachi drill stalled a few times while cutting this hole, even on the highest torque setting of "drill".
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j120/996gt2/DSC01709.jpg

another view:
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j120/996gt2/DSC01710.jpg

It's simply called the circle cutter and should cost around 7 dollars. Also get some sandpaper to smooth out the edge after it has been cut, although it'll be very nice even with no sanding.

Then, use the included pilot bit to drill a pilot hole and cut away:
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j120/996gt2/DSC01706.jpg

It takes about 4-5 minutes to cut a hole for a 120mm fan with this tool, as it grinds away slowly at the metal. However, this means that the end result is very nice and non-jagged. Do be aware that the circular piece you cut out will be very sharp, so be careful.

Now, just drill 4 holes around the large fan opening for the fan and grille. I had originally intended on using window molding for the fan opening to cover up any rough edges, but the result came out so nicely that I didn't even feel the need to use window molding on the hole.

With the fan mounted, exterior view:
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j120/996gt2/DSC01707.jpg

Interior view:
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j120/996gt2/DSC01708.jpg

Now that the fan modding has been done, the intake holes in the front of the Wavemaster should be opened up also. I used a Dremel MultiPro with cut-off wheels to do this, and cut out a large part of the section with small circular holes for better intake flow. Here's a pic, don't mind the fact that it had to be taken in night-vision mode:

Note that the process of cutting these two holes takes a LONG time since the aluminum is quite thick in this area; In my experience, I found it easier to cut a rough square hole first, then finish off the hole with low-grit dremel sanding drums, which cut through aluminum quickly. Note that each sanding drum will only last about 15 seconds sanding through aluminum at low-mid RPM.
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j120/996gt2/DSC01714.jpg

Case completed:
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j120/996gt2/DSC01716.jpg

Well, hope that gives you some kind of idea on how to mod the Wavemaster for better airflow and cooling. Now to give credit where's its due. First to Kyle (AT kyleegbert) for letting me use his workbench and great Hitachi drill, and also to his friend Le for being the human vise

Oh yes...and as for the metal piece that was cut out of the case...well, the fan molding ended up getting wrapped around its sharp edges and it's now serving as a very nice coaster...

 

[dawza]

Nice work, especially on that front grille! I tried cutting holes like you did on the front, but had to stop after making a few passes because I realized that I needed better cutting wheels. I can imagine how much work went into making those holes.

In my experience, cutting a 120mm hole for passive intake made the biggest difference in temps, with a drop of ~4C at idle and 5C at load. How are your temps now with the new mods? I would be especially interested to know much of a difference opening up the front intake makes, to decide whether it would be worth it to take my system apart to finish the job.

 

[RallyMaster]

996GT2 doesn't know how it will affect temps since he doesn't have his parts yet

 

[Howard]

I'm afraid to use one of those things outside of a drill press.

 

[996GT2]

Yeah I wont get my parts for the AM2 build till Thursday, but I'll tell you guys then...
Also the side 120mm fan is currently set up for exhaust, as I read that someone got better results than as intake, and also less dust.

 

[GalvanizedYankee]

Comments:

Corded tools for shop use. Battery tools are portable and that is thier advantage.

The cutter you linked is made for wall paneling & drywall. They will dull quickly on metal.
I've used them in a drill press on metal but would not reccomend the less skilled to use
them with a hand held drill on metal.

Why do you hate your PSU.? Using the side panel fan as exhaust is probably killing air
flow through it. Might as well flip the PSU's fan at this point.


...Galvanized

 

[996GT2]

Originally posted by: GalvanizedYankee
Comments:

Corded tools for shop use. Battery tools are portable and that is thier advantage.

The cutter you linked is made for wall paneling & drywall. They will dull quickly on metal.
I've used them in a drill press on metal but would not reccomend the less skilled to use
them with a hand held drill on metal.

Why do you hate your PSU.? Using the side panel fan as exhaust is probably killing air
flow through it. Might as well flip the PSU's fan at this point.


...Galvanized

The packaging on the cutter mentioned that "light metals" were acceptable, and aluminum can be considered a light metal. After one 4.25 inch hole, the cutting tip did not dull very much at all; in fact, I'd say it's good for another 3 or 4 holes at the very least. Of course, this thing doesn't have nearly the speed of a good bi-metal hole saw, but it also costs much less and can be adjusted for virtually any size of hole.

Also, even though a corded drill may be preferable for its power, any good cordless drill should be fine. Also, I agree that with 1 person, drilling the hole is not easy, but with 2 people and a workbench/vise, it's quite easy to do, even for the less skilled.

As for airflow, the side 120mm fan is definitely going to be undervolted for quietness, so I don't know about flipping the PSU fan. I'll try it as intake sometime when I get the chance.

 

[pkme2]

I used a RotoZip to cut my 120mm holes in my cases. http://www.s140891385.onlinehome.us/Hosted/Pics/120mmfan.jpg
Getting a 120mm template while googling, I cut a plywood template to make cutting easier. 120mm = 4.72"
I drilled holes first to attached plywood to case top.
Wrapping a little tape around drill/cutter/grinder bit to protect sides of plywood opening, I proceeded to cut out my hole.
My plywood template will become handy for future case holes.
You can use a 4 3/4" hole saw if everything else fails.
You will need a hole saw mandrel to use the hole saw.
Found another.
http://cgi.ebay.com/120mm-Diamond-coate...4QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem