Installing French doors?

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IamDavid

Diamond Member
Sep 13, 2000
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I have a typical sliding glass door exiting out onto my patio. We hate it. i want to replace them with some french doors, either by myself or pay some one. I'm not the best carpenter but it doesn't look that difficult.

So, is it as easy as I think it is? If not how much should I expect to pay. The set of pre hung doors we looked at cost around $600.
 

Rumpltzer

Diamond Member
Jun 7, 2003
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Originally posted by: IamDavid
I have a typical sliding glass door exiting out onto our patio. We hate it. i want to replace them with some french doors, either by myself or pay some one. I'm not the best carpenter but it doesn't look that difficult.

So, is it as easy as I think it is? If not how much should I expect to pay. The set of pre hung doors we looked at cost around $600.

Please take pics if you decide to do it yourself.
 

huberm

Golden Member
Dec 17, 2004
1,105
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doors are kind of tricky to install, and I have heard that french doors are the hardest.

I just installed an entry door in my house. I would consider myself at an intermediate skill level for fix it projects.

The tricky part is getting it plumb and level. It took me about 4hrs because I was careless at first and if it is even just a little bit off, the door won't close and seal right.

I think it will be somewhat difficult, but i think you should do it. It'll be a learning experience!
 

MustISO

Lifer
Oct 9, 1999
11,927
12
81
I installed interior french doors but not exterior. One issue you may run into is problems with the existing frame, that could throw things off a little. Few shims here and there should take care of that.
 

IamDavid

Diamond Member
Sep 13, 2000
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Thanks for the responses.

I've installed interior doors before and watching a few video's around the web I don't think it'll be to incredidly difficuct. Time consuming but not impossable.

So no one's ever had them professionally installed?
 

bctbct

Diamond Member
Dec 22, 2005
4,868
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I'm bored

1. Measure and using common sense detemine the rough opening (space between framing) of your existing door, take that to door supplier and make sure you get the correct size of the new door. Ideally the new door frame would be 1/2inch shorter and 1inch less in length. Also purchase some latex caulk and a bundle(50 or so pcs) of cedar shim shingles. Also get some #12 finish nails if you are installing a wood unit.

2. Remove existing door, allow at least 8 hrs since you are a novice. Pick a warm day with no rain in the forecast.

3. Enlist a friend to help you, wives make sandwiches, dont go there for help.

4. Remove the old door unit, dont break glass, bitch to clean up. Hopefully your old door unit has "brick mold" and the siding is short enough that when you install the new door and install new molding you will not have to trim the siding.

5. Set the new unit into the opening. French doors require correct placement because not only can the door drag on the head and the sill, but if the door is "tweaked", the face of the doors will offset.

6. Using a 4 foot level, check the side jamb for plumb and the head for level. Add shims around the door unit to get the door whaere you want it.

7. The new unit will likely have new brick mold already attached or a flange around it for nailing the unit to the boxing or studs around the door. Begin adding nails/screws around the unit, but so not set nails in case you have to remove them to adjust. Put caulk on the back side of the flange or brick mold to seal out drafts.

8. Only add enough fastners to secure the door from moving all around or falling out. When you set the unit it is best to have it off the floor below so you can make minor adjustment to the sill. I usually add an 1/8 shim under the ends of the jambs. When the door is temp secure, open the door to see that it operates freely without dragging etc.

9. When you see that everything operates correctly you can secure the door permanently. Begin on one jamb at the top. The correct way to install the shims is to take one wedge shape in insert it between the unit and jamb while sliding another shim in from the other side of the jamb so that the shims are still a true thickness rather than 2 or more shims on one side which creates a wedge shaped shim, this twists the jamb and will create problems later.

The shims should also be placed even with or slighly higher or below the hinge location. The jamb material is flexible enough that it will bow unless the shims are near the hinge. The ends of the shims will be to long and sticking out, using a utility knife cut half way thru them and snap them off.

10. Take your time, it works best with 1 person on each side of the door pushing in the shims to each other, make them snug but not tight. Drive in a finish nail though the shim material in order to stop them from falling out. Do not drive the nails all the way in incase you have to remove them to make adjustments. I usually put 2 nails across to keep the jamb secure and square.

I start at the top, add shims at the bottom, then do the middle hinge location, keep a close eye on the reveal between the door and the jamb always mainting the typical 1/8 inch spacing.

Do both jambs

11. You are now ready to do the head. I usually pick 2 equal locations, shim and nail.

12. You are now ready to do the sill, There are many different sills, some have an adjustable screw so they can be adjusted years to come. If that is what you have, remove the raised (typically wood) stripe buy removing the screws. There is probably holes below it to install screws from the sill to the floor below. Again, use shims to adjust. I prefer to set the sill and dry pack a masonary material under it to make it regid enough to stand on. If you just want to shim put enough on it so it does not bow under your wgt wherever you step.

13. Before nailing any nails complete, check the door operation thouroughly, if you have a problem fix it now

14.If everything lines up, door closes properly and the door face lines up...set all nails. Using insulation or expanding foam fill the gap between the framing and jambs.

15. If you made it this far you can finsh the trim without instruction.

16. Sammich and nap time.




Too bored to proof read

 

bctbct

Diamond Member
Dec 22, 2005
4,868
1
0
Originally posted by: IamDavid
Thanks for the responses.

I've installed interior doors before and watching a few video's around the web I don't think it'll be to incredidly difficuct. Time consuming but not impossable.

So no one's ever had them professionally installed?

lowes probably has a standard install price if you call...probably $3-400
 

Balt

Lifer
Mar 12, 2000
12,673
482
126
They are a pain, imo. Especially if you live in a humid climate.

Best of luck.
 

IamDavid

Diamond Member
Sep 13, 2000
5,888
10
81
Originally posted by: bctbct
I'm bored

1. Measure and using common sense detemine the rough opening (space between framing) of your existing door, take that to door supplier and make sure you get the correct size of the new door. Ideally the new door frame would be 1/2inch shorter and 1inch less in length. Also purchase some latex caulk and a bundle(50 or so pcs) of cedar shim shingles. Also get some #12 finish nails if you are installing a wood unit.

2. Remove existing door, allow at least 8 hrs since you are a novice. Pick a warm day with no rain in the forecast.

3. Enlist a friend to help you, wives make sandwiches, dont go there for help.

4. Remove the old door unit, dont break glass, bitch to clean up. Hopefully your old door unit has "brick mold" and the siding is short enough that when you install the new door and install new molding you will not have to trim the siding.

5. Set the new unit into the opening. French doors require correct placement because not only can the door drag on the head and the sill, but if the door is "tweaked", the face of the doors will offset.

6. Using a 4 foot level, check the side jamb for plumb and the head for level. Add shims around the door unit to get the door whaere you want it.

7. The new unit will likely have new brick mold already attached or a flange around it for nailing the unit to the boxing or studs around the door. Begin adding nails/screws around the unit, but so not set nails in case you have to remove them to adjust. Put caulk on the back side of the flange or brick mold to seal out drafts.

8. Only add enough fastners to secure the door from moving all around or falling out. When you set the unit it is best to have it off the floor below so you can make minor adjustment to the sill. I usually add an 1/8 shim under the ends of the jambs. When the door is temp secure, open the door to see that it operates freely without dragging etc.

9. When you see that everything operates correctly you can secure the door permanently. Begin on one jamb at the top. The correct way to install the shims is to take one wedge shape in insert it between the unit and jamb while sliding another shim in from the other side of the jamb so that the shims are still a true thickness rather than 2 or more shims on one side which creates a wedge shaped shim, this twists the jamb and will create problems later.

The shims should also be placed even with or slighly higher or below the hinge location. The jamb material is flexible enough that it will bow unless the shims are near the hinge. The ends of the shims will be to long and sticking out, using a utility knife cut half way thru them and snap them off.

10. Take your time, it works best with 1 person on each side of the door pushing in the shims to each other, make them snug but not tight. Drive in a finish nail though the shim material in order to stop them from falling out. Do not drive the nails all the way in incase you have to remove them to make adjustments. I usually put 2 nails across to keep the jamb secure and square.

I start at the top, add shims at the bottom, then do the middle hinge location, keep a close eye on the reveal between the door and the jamb always mainting the typical 1/8 inch spacing.

Do both jambs

11. You are now ready to do the head. I usually pick 2 equal locations, shim and nail.

12. You are now ready to do the sill, There are many different sills, some have an adjustable screw so they can be adjusted years to come. If that is what you have, remove the raised (typically wood) stripe buy removing the screws. There is probably holes below it to install screws from the sill to the floor below. Again, use shims to adjust. I prefer to set the sill and dry pack a masonary material under it to make it regid enough to stand on. If you just want to shim put enough on it so it does not bow under your wgt wherever you step.

13. Before nailing any nails complete, check the door operation thouroughly, if you have a problem fix it now

14.If everything lines up, door closes properly and the door face lines up...set all nails. Using insulation or expanding foam fill the gap between the framing and jambs.

15. If you made it this far you can finsh the trim without instruction.

16. Sammich and nap time.




Too bored to proof read


Wow, thanks bctbct! I completely agree with #3! Tried having her help mount my 55" plasma on the wall. Very bad idea. I now have a 3' scratch, deep scratch! Just part of life I guess.
Guess I'll be watching the weather tonight, hope no rain this weekend!
Thanks again.
 

Sluggo

Lifer
Jun 12, 2000
15,488
5
81
Pay attention to your measurements if you decide to proceed with the door replacement.

Not all French or garden doors will fit back into the opening a sliding door was in. Sliding doors tend to be exactly the size they are advertised at, a 6' door is exactly 6 feet. French doors may be bigger since they will be made from 2-36" doors, plus some extra for the frame, so it may not fit back into the 72" opening the sliding door came from.

If you do have the sliding door that is exactly 6 feet, you will want to shop for a "retro-fit" door, or a replacement door. All manufacturers will have a different name for them and they are usually special order, which of course means more money.
 

DrPizza

Administrator Elite Member Goat Whisperer
Mar 5, 2001
49,601
167
111
www.slatebrookfarm.com
Piece of cake if you've done doors before. I installed French doors off of the dining room onto the new deck at my old house. Prior, there were two 55" windows and a narrow stained glass window between them. So, I had to do some framing work on that wall as well. I even did the job during a snowstorm. (I've done a lot of projects like that at weird times... I think the reason is that every once in a while, I see that deal that I just can't pass up. And, exterior French doors apparently don't sell that well during the winter, hence the odds of the deal lasting long enough for me to see it were much better than if it had been mid-summer.
 

zerocool84

Lifer
Nov 11, 2004
36,041
472
126
Make sure you get help when doing it. It's easy to do single doors yourself but since it's double and very large you're going to need help.
 
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