Installing a water pressure reducing valve

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Muse

Muse

Lifer
Jul 11, 2001
39,902
9,597
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When my water supply line had to be replaced several years ago the company that did it offered to additionally install a pressure reducing valve with an additional charge of around $100 and I declined. My water pressure is on the high side at 90-95psi (borrowed a gauge from my town's tool lending library a few years back and that's the kind of readings I got).

Don't know that I've suffered but figure a lower pressure's a good idea... to save hoses, maybe some other things. For one thing, I'm contemplating installing some kind of bidet some day.

Well, ATM there's a decent price (I think) on a valve:

Zurn 34-NR3XLDU Wilkins Pressure Reducing 3/4-Inch Valve Lead Free

Comes to about $65 including ~$8 shipping.

Can I install this myself? The water supply comes up vertically from the ground just in front of my house and a few inches above the ground there's a manual circular handled valve to shut off all water to the house. A pipe (brass? It's not magnetic) about 7/8" outer diameter goes straight up from the shut-off valve for 6.5" and then joins a horizontal pipe which goes two ways. One way is to a standard hose outlet to which I have a garden hose attached. The other direction goes right into the house into the crawl space, etc.

I suppose I'd have to install the pressure reducing valve in that 6.5 inch pipe between the cut-off valve and that horizontal pipe. I have a propane torch, also a cannister of map gas (maybe not empty, but could get more). I've never sweated a pipe connection but I'm handy, could watch youtube videos. I'd prefer to do this myself, I've never called a plumber out for anything.

Is a 3/4" valve, i.e. this one (???) what I want here?

Would I have to cut threads? I can borrow some equipment from that tool lending library. Could call out a plumber to install it but would like to DIY it.
 
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boomerang

boomerang

Lifer
Jun 19, 2000
18,883
641
126
No, you don't have to thread anything. There is a union connection on both ends of the pressure reducer. The components making up one of the unions is pictured on the left. You will need the components to form the union on the other end. (They are not pictured, so my assumption is that they don't come with it.) You will have to cut a piece out of the existing pipe, and sweat a union on both ends with the pressure reducer in place and the unions snugged tight.

You will need some emery cloth, flux, the proper solder and a tubing cutter as well as two good sized pairs of channel lock pliers or pipe wrenches. It would be a good idea to get some pipe dope too for the union connections. They should seal up water tight but it's best practice to apply a bit for insurance - especially when a rookie is doing the work. Make note that there is an arrow on the reducer indicating the direction of the water flow.

Most if not all residential water supply lines are 3/4" but it might be possible that it is 1".

What can go wrong? Lots. You will have to accurately cut the correct length of out of the existing pipe. At that point you will have no water to the house. You will need to remove the water in the vertical pipe after the shut off valve or else it will continue to absorb the heat when you are soldering and you will have problems. Either not getting the connection hot enough to get the solder to flow or ending up with a cold soldered connection that will leak. You will have to use the emery cloth on both ends of what is left along with two new fittings until they are bright and shiny , apply the flux and fit the pieces together. Then you have to solder both ends. Did I mention that you will have no water while doing this and if you run into a problem that you still won't have any water? If you get partway through it and then realize you have to throw in the towel, you will at that point have to find a plumber that can come out pretty much right then.

Don't start the job on the 24th of December at 4 PM...

Can you do it? Absolutely. Should you? Only you can answer that.
 
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Muse

Muse

Lifer
Jul 11, 2001
39,902
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Just ordered the valve, to arrive Dec. 27 - Jan. 3.

Well, I don't have to do it right away. And if I have a question about how it's done the guys a couple blocks away at the Berkeley Tool Lending Library are always helpful and chatty.

Thanks for the replies!

Edit: I'm almost positive it's a 3/4" line.

Edit2: I'm going to post a picture of the service when I find it or take another picture!
 
Last edited:
NutBucket

NutBucket

Lifer
Aug 30, 2000
27,118
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Twitchy Amazon. Only slightly cheaper than Home Depot anyway. I would buy it at the store actually. I've bought them before and they were defective out of the box.
 
boomerang

boomerang

Lifer
Jun 19, 2000
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Greenman said:
My only change to the above is that I wouldn't sweat in the unions with the valve in place. Sweat the unions then install the valve.

Muse, if you fuck it up pm me, I'm working out that way and may be able to help you out.
Click to expand...
You're right. There is too much risk of the heat damaging it. My recommendation would then be to dry fit the components and mark where the edge of the female nipple falls on each segment of the pipe so that you have a reference when you sweat them. Or, you could sweat one end and then dry fit and mark the other.

Most importantly, remember to put the threaded coupler part of the unions in place on their respective pipes prior to sweating on the nipples. You'll be glad you did.:D
 
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Muse

Muse

Lifer
Jul 11, 2001
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I know I'll understand the suggestions here much better after I get the thing in the mail than trying to figure them out reading them here now. I'll post that photo of the service entering the house, gotta take a picture when it gets light, couldn't find the one(s) I took a few years ago.
 
Muse

Muse

Lifer
Jul 11, 2001
39,902
9,597
136
NutBucket said:
Twitchy Amazon. Only slightly cheaper than Home Depot anyway. I would buy it at the store actually. I've bought them before and they were defective out of the box.
Click to expand...
Guess the only way I'd know if it's defective is to install and then test the pressure (with a gauge I'll be borrowing from my tool lending library). Well, it's ordered, I could cancel... I suppose if it turns out bad, I can get a mailing label and return... returning to (and buying from) Home Depot requires a special trip for me, at least a couple detours.
 
C

C1

Platinum Member
Feb 21, 2008
2,375
111
106
Putting in the regulator will be a hassel, but you can do it. Dont be surprised if it takes 4 hours.

You do need a regulator as 90+ psi over time damages appliances such as water softeners, dish washers, wash machines water heaters and even and sink faucets.

Dont worry about the regulator being defective. The Wilkins units are quite reliable and, in addition, the cartridge is replaceable. (You will need to replace that about every 5 to 7 years depending on quality of yur local water.) The standard (ie, non-high range) units come precalibrated at 55 psi and are adjustable (but 55 psi is enough).

Good luck.
 
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Muse

Muse

Lifer
Jul 11, 2001
39,902
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OK, so 55psi is what I should be happy with? No dishwasher here, but I have a washing machine and, of course, sinks. My water heater is an on-demand unit. I have a feeling that my toilets will prefer lower pressure.

The water here, as far as I know, isn't very hard. Greenman can speak to that, I'm sure.
 
PiyushPatel

PiyushPatel

Junior Member
Aug 3, 2021
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I want to say that if the ideal house water pressure is about 50 pounds per square inch (PSI). Then I want you to install the Pressure Reducing Valves if the pressure is excessively high.
 
Muse

Muse

Lifer
Jul 11, 2001
39,902
9,597
136
C1 said:
Putting in the regulator will be a hassel, but you can do it. Dont be surprised if it takes 4 hours.

You do need a regulator as 90+ psi over time damages appliances such as water softeners, dish washers, wash machines water heaters and even and sink faucets.

Dont worry about the regulator being defective. The Wilkins units are quite reliable and, in addition, the cartridge is replaceable. (You will need to replace that about every 5 to 7 years depending on quality of yur local water.) The standard (ie, non-high range) units come precalibrated at 55 psi and are adjustable (but 55 psi is enough).

Good luck.
Click to expand...
I had a problem replacing my kitchen sink faucet and enlisted the help of a plumber. I had him install the pressure reducing valve. On suggestion from a plumber friend (recently retired) I asked the plumber to set the pressure at 70PSI. I tested it, and it is about 70PSI now, reduced from ~90PSI. I guess I could drop it down. There's no dishwasher here, but I have a washing machine and a tankless water heater.
 
BoomerD

BoomerD

No Lifer
Feb 26, 2006
65,602
13,980
146
I'd kill to have that kind of water pressure. We're doing well to get over 50 psi.
 
MtnMan

MtnMan

Diamond Member
Jul 27, 2004
9,278
8,579
136
My water pressure, at the meter, is 360PSI when demand is low late night. Yes 360PSI, the city water authority actually put their gauge on it. I've invested over $3K in plumbers over the years dealing with this to get that to a safe pressure for appliances and water heater. They installed 2 PRV's in series at the street, as it takes schedule 80 PVC to withstand that pressure, vs. the normal schedule 40 PVC.

PRV's only hold up for so long, and I'm about to call the plumbers back as the pressure in the house builds to about 90PSI. I have a 200PSI gauge I picked up for about $10, so I can keep an eye on it.

There are virtually no home on the water system that don't have PVRs installed out of necessity. Part of the challenges one deal with living in the mountains.
 
M

Motostu

Senior member
Oct 5, 2020
566
588
136
MtnMan said:
My water pressure, at the meter, is 360PSI when demand is low late night.

...
Click to expand...
Wow, and I thought ours was high having 130 PSI at the meter. We cut ours to 85 or so where it comes into the basement, which still gives decent pressure on the 2nd floor. I've got 2 outdoor spigots that bypass the regulator; they are awesome!
 
MtnMan

MtnMan

Diamond Member
Jul 27, 2004
9,278
8,579
136
Motostu said:
Wow, and I thought ours was high having 130 PSI at the meter. We cut ours to 85 or so where it comes into the basement, which still gives decent pressure on the 2nd floor. I've got 2 outdoor spigots that bypass the regulator; they are awesome!
Click to expand...
When we moved here, the PVR was in the basement. One spigot was before even the PVR. I didn't use that one for a while due to its location. First time I hooked a hose to it, with a nozzle, and opened the tap, the hose goes BLAM and was whipping around till I could get it shut off.

Iron pipe from the meter finally gave up, and had plumbers replace, and since everything is now plastic, they used schedule 40. That stood up to the pressure for about a year till it gave up. Next plumber recognized why it failed, and installed schedule 80. Then the final step was to set a box right beside the meter and put the PVRs up there. And by up there, up at the street, which is probably 20'+ above the main floor, which adds 10 - 12 PSI by the time it reaches the bathroom, washer, water heater in the basement.
 
S

Sukhoi

Elite Member
Dec 5, 1999
15,342
104
106
I really wish you had supplied us with a link to that wonderful Camco 40058
 
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