Input on HTPC/home server build

[Valantar]

Hi all

So I've been planning this build for quite a while now, and it's getting close to buying time, so I'd like some feedback on my plans.

This is a PC that will, for the most part, be left running 24/7, working as a backup machine, media server, and HTPC. It'll be replacing my current Atom D525-based server + the laptop that currently serves as a HTPC.

I don't have a fixed budget, but I can't go much above the total price of the parts I've chosen (~6000 Norwegian krone).

I have a Fractal Design Node 304 case, 2 WD Green 2TB HDDs, and that's about it as to what I'm keeping. The PSU in the server still works, but its OLD, and was cheap and crappy when I bought it, so I doubt it could handle more than a few watts today. I'll be upgrading the current server's Windows 7 Pro to W10 and using that.


My plans so far:

I'm shooting for a quiet, low-power and silent build. It will be AMD-based, as dedicated graphics are out of the question, and I want some GPU power for some light gaming.

CPU: AMD A8-7600 (set to 45W mode mostly). I'm considering getting the A10-7850K and underclocking it, just for the option to overclock temporarily for gaming + the extra GPU cores. The price difference (nearly 50% right now here in Norway) is a bit steep, though. Can I OC the GPU of the A8?

Motherboard: ASRock FM2A88X-ITX+. Inexpensive, mITX, FM2+, but most importantly it has 6 SATA connectors. More than 4 is a must. WiFi and stuff like that isn't necessary, but I guess it could be useful if I ever repurpose this for something else.

RAM: 8GB (2x4GB) G.Skill RipjawsX 2133MHz CL9. Fast, low latency, and among the cheapest 8GB DDR3 kits I can find. Can't see any reason not to choose this kit. Worth the tiny premium compared to 1600/1866 RAM for the added graphics bandwidth.

PSU: Seasonic G360. One of the smallest wattage Gold-rated units I've been able to find. Would love a modular unit, but quality and efficiency trumps those concerns. The 4 SATA connectors on this is a bummer, but that's a solveable problem. And of course, doubling the price for the SS-400FL is just not worth it, even if it's fanless, modular and Platinum rated.

SSD : I'll either be booting from the 80GB Intel X25-m that's currently in my laptop, or getting an ~128GB MX100, BX100 or 850 EVO. Currently the EVO is the cheapest, so I'll pick that, but as this PC won't need much SSD storage it'll most replace the one in the laptop.

HDDs: My current Greens will be mirrored (through Storage Spaces) for backups and storage of photos and such. Mostly cold storage, accessed whenever I do a backup. I'll be adding a 4TB WD Red - this drive will be used for torrents and media. Longevity is really the main factor here, other than the ability to watch 1080p video while running a few torrents to/from the same drive. My current WD Greens have struggled with this from time to time, so I want something quicker than those, but that's it. Have considered the Red Pro, but it doesn't seem worth it. Are any other brands better when it comes to longevity?


I'm a bit unsure when it comes to cooling. I get the impression that mounting big coolers on this motherboard is difficult as they can interfere with the memory slots. Also, there are components on the back of the motherboard that can interfere with backplates. If not for that, I'd probably go for a 212 Evo. Now I'm leaning towards keeping the stock cooler, but any suggestions for a cheap, quiet cooler are appreciated. I've also been considering the NoFan CR-80EH, as it's fanless (hooray!) wouldn't interfere with the RAM, and should perform sufficiently given that it'll be next to a 140mm exhaust fan. Also, I like how weird it is. Of course, that's not a cheap cooler. What do you think?

 

[mfenn]

I can't really comment on pricing without knowing where you're buying from, but your parts look reasonable. Regarding your question:

1. Your data integrity strategy should revolve around redundancy and backups, not trying to read the tea leaves for how reliable any given drive will be. Mirroring drives makes sense for availability (uptime), but to actually protect the data against drive failure, malware, and plain-old user error, you need to have a regular backup plan.

2. You actually can fit a 120mm tower cooler into a Node 304. Here's an article with some examples, they specifically used a Xigmatek Dark Knight II (Hyper 212 clone).

 

[Valantar]

I can't really comment on pricing without knowing where you're buying from, but your parts look reasonable. Regarding your question:

1. Your data integrity strategy should revolve around redundancy and backups, not trying to read the tea leaves for how reliable any given drive will be. Mirroring drives makes sense for availability (uptime), but to actually protect the data against drive failure, malware, and plain-old user error, you need to have a regular backup plan.

2. You actually can fit a 120mm tower cooler into a Node 304. Here's an article with some examples, they specifically used a Xigmatek Dark Knight II (Hyper 212 clone).

Thanks for the feedback. I'll be buying the parts in Norway, from whichever retailer(s) give the best total price. There are quite a few to pick from, and most are reliable, luckily.

As for the drive selection, I know that going for some illusion of reliability is a bad plan. There won't be anything on the 4tb drive that I can't afford to lose. I just tend to have bad luck with HDDs (to the tune of more than 2/3 of the drives I've ever had failing within 3 years), which is why I asked for suggestions. The mirrored 2tb drives will be my backup solution for now, and I'll upgrade them as needed.

Also, I know the case is quite spacious for cpu coolers, but they tend to either block memory slots or require a backplate - and given that most AMD backplates seem to fit nearly flush with the board, especially the AMD/Intel combo ones, they won't fit that motherboard as they'll collide with onboard components (see this picture) . I've considered getting a tower cooler and DIYing a fastening solution without a backplate, but given how hard it is to find things like nylon washers in Norway I've mostly given up on that. Given that I don't have access to a Dremel, cutting away the interfering part of the backplate isn't an option either. I've considered the CM TX3 Evo as that clips on, but I'm unsure if it's worth replacing the stock cooler for.

 

[Valantar]

Here's a link to my shopping list in the price comparison site I mainly use:

http://www.prisguide.no/liste/147996

I apparently had my prices a bit mixed up - 6000 NOK is including the 7850K and the NoFan cooler. That is my absolute maximum. With the 7600 and no cooler, it's 5200 NOK, which is much more comfortable.

 

[mfenn]

Here's a link to my shopping list in the price comparison site I mainly use:

http://www.prisguide.no/liste/147996

I apparently had my prices a bit mixed up - 6000 NOK is including the 7850K and the NoFan cooler. That is my absolute maximum. With the 7600 and no cooler, it's 5200 NOK, which is much more comfortable.

If you want to save on price and get modularity, consider the Corsair CX430M. Depending on how much you pay for electricity, the 2-3W difference in actual power draw could mean that the Gold unit takes a very long time to pay for itself.

You can also shave off a little by going with the OCZ ARC 100 instead of the Samsung 850 EVO. The 850 is faster (generally), but not enough for you to be able to tell a difference outside of benchmarks.

 

[Valantar]

If you want to save on price and get modularity, consider the Corsair CX430M. Depending on how much you pay for electricity, the 2-3W difference in actual power draw could mean that the Gold unit takes a very long time to pay for itself.

You can also shave off a little by going with the OCZ ARC 100 instead of the Samsung 850 EVO. The 850 is faster (generally), but not enough for you to be able to tell a difference outside of benchmarks.

Thanks for the input! Modularity would be great, but the combination of losing efficiency and increasing PSU power (in other words further removing the efficiency sweet spot from wattages at the loads this build will see) doesn't seem worth it to me. Also, an additional two years of warranty coverage is definitely worth something.

I'll have to consider the SSD, though. I don't really believe in buying anything premium for home usage, as I don't believe I'll actually notice the difference, so any cheaper option which isn't completely outdated and thus lacking in features, endurance or just performs awfully (as some old ssds do, but ~no new ones) is definitely worth considering. Also, I like supporting "small" firms rather than the huge behemoths dominating the market, so any reason to skip Samsung in this case is a good one. One question though: is this from the newer OCZ line, after they were bought? I've heard some pretty bad things about their quality before then.

 

[mfenn]

Thanks for the input! Modularity would be great, but the combination of losing efficiency and increasing PSU power (in other words further removing the efficiency sweet spot from wattages at the loads this build will see) doesn't seem worth it to me. Also, an additional two years of warranty coverage is definitely worth something.

You have to do the math to find out which option makes more sense. It's overall better to just do the analysis than guessing and wondering. I can help you if you let me know your electricity rate.

I'll have to consider the SSD, though. I don't really believe in buying anything premium for home usage, as I don't believe I'll actually notice the difference, so any cheaper option which isn't completely outdated and thus lacking in features, endurance or just performs awfully (as some old ssds do, but ~no new ones) is definitely worth considering. Also, I like supporting "small" firms rather than the huge behemoths dominating the market, so any reason to skip Samsung in this case is a good one. One question though: is this from the newer OCZ line, after they were bought? I've heard some pretty bad things about their quality before then.

Yep, the ARC 100 is their first mainstream product after they were bought by Toshiba.

 

[mindless1]

CX430M is a significant step down in quality compared to the G360. Not worth it unless you can get the CX430M for ~ $20 USD or less after rebate.