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Info on building a ported sub box?

M

Metalloid

Diamond Member
I'm going to be buying 2 Audiobahn AWC12T subs and a Profile CA1200 amp soon, and am planning on building my own box.

I know that a ported box will give me more output than a sealed box, but I know nothing of how to design or build one. Can anyone explain it, or point me to a good internet guide that will give me all of the knowledge I might need?

Audiobahn's recommended box dimensions for the sub are here.

Thanks guys.
 
just use their dimensions. To explain how to design a box for a certain speaker is a huge task its quite complicated
 
Originally posted by: Fiveohhh
just use their dimensions. To explain how to design a box for a certain speaker is a huge task its quite complicated
Click to expand...
Er, not really.

Download WinISD Pro from http://www.linearteam.dk and use it to model the enclosure for the drivers. If they don't already have the data input for the AWC12T, you can put it in manually.

Once you figure out the interior volume and port dimensions, you can pretty much start building the box however you like.
 
BTW, manufacturers' dimensions tend to be smaller than those which give maximally-flat responses (i.e. there's a hump in the response curve), probably because they cater to the thumping one-note bassheads.
 
Originally posted by: Howard
BTW, manufacturers' dimensions tend to be smaller than those which give maximally-flat responses (i.e. there's a hump in the response curve), probably because they cater to the thumping one-note bassheads.
Click to expand...

So you are saying that I should make the box a bit larger than they recommend for best performance?

Thanks for the link!!!
 
Originally posted by: Howard
Originally posted by: Fiveohhh
just use their dimensions. To explain how to design a box for a certain speaker is a huge task its quite complicated
Click to expand...
Er, not really.

Download WinISD Pro from http://www.linearteam.dk and use it to model the enclosure for the drivers. If they don't already have the data input for the AWC12T, you can put it in manually.

Once you figure out the interior volume and port dimensions, you can pretty much start building the box however you like.
Click to expand...

What I meant to say was its a complicated process unless you have software😛 I used that awhile ago to messaround with some things, its actually pretty easy especially if your speakers are allready in it😀
 
Originally posted by: Metalloid
Originally posted by: Howard
BTW, manufacturers' dimensions tend to be smaller than those which give maximally-flat responses (i.e. there's a hump in the response curve), probably because they cater to the thumping one-note bassheads.
Click to expand...

So you are saying that I should make the box a bit larger than they recommend for best performance?

Thanks for the link!!!
Click to expand...
Usually, but I suggest using the software anyway.
 
Well my speaker wasn't in the software, and I'm trying to put the specs in manually. But I am having trouble finding a lot of them.

It would be absolutely wonderful if there was a file that I could add on for this speaker. 😉 I know it is out there somewhere.....
 
It should have all the specs on their site or in the manual.. I suppose that doesn't mean it will though😛 try a google search for the specs too
 
AWC12T

Fs : 31.4Hz
Qts: 0.59
Qes: 0.71
Qms: 3.57
Vas: 69L
Re: 3.3 ohms
Le: 1.5mH
Mms: 130g
Xmax: +/- 8mm
RMS power: 500W
Sd: 0.051 m^2
Sensitivity/eff: 92.9dB
EBP: 44
 
I'd recommend 2cf tuned to 33hz, that'll keep excursion down, especially with subs that have as little excursion as that one. I'd also recommend a sealed box, probably 1.5cf.
 
One Adire Audio Tempest running at maximum power (they say 750W in total) will give more output than both those Audiobahns combined... and it's only $150.

EDIT: The Tempest isn't that attractive, but nobody's going to see the back, and the front is merely utilitarian.
 
Originally posted by: Viperoni
Howard, not above 50hz it won't be louder. But it would give better overall SQ and deep-bass ability.
Click to expand...
I keep forgetting you want most of the content above 40Hz in car audio... 😀
 
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