Induction range wiring cost

[pete6032]

I am in the market for an induction range. Just wanted to get some thoughts on the cost of materials for wiring it as I'm switching from gas so there is no wiring to support. Do I need anything other than the following? I have room on my panel and its an easy wire drop into my unfinished basement from where the range will go.

40-amp GFCI breaker - $150
50' romex cable 8-3 - $200
Electric box - $5
40-amp outlet $5
Total: $360

 

[Greenman]

I don't believe you need a GFCI breaker, but someone who's a little more up on the latest codes will be along shortly to verify that.

@herm0016

 

[Paperdoc]

Check the AMP rating for the range you plan to buy. 40 A sees a bit low to me, but may be correct. That dictates the rating of the panel breaker, the cable you need to run from panel to wall outlet box AND the outlet fixture itself. You ALSO need a short cable with moulded plug on the end that you install into the range's connection box and then plug into the wall outlet fixture. Of course, that last cable needs a plug to match the outlet fixture - the specific prong configuration of both is dictated by the Amps rating. SOME range sellers may supply that last cable with the range, pre-installed or not.

Last item: to run the cable from panel to wall box you will need to pass through wood boards - basement rafters, wall sole-plate boards, etc., and that means you will need a large-diameter wood boring bit to make holes a bit larger than the cable you are buying. A Spade bit for your electric drill like this But the correct diameter)

would do it nicely. You may need a few wiring Staples (heavy-duty for your cable, hammer in with hammer) to fasten cable to flat wood beam faces. Lastly, of course, you will need to deal with local electrical code requirements and assess your own ability to do this - it actually is a pretty simple wiring job if you are familiar with such.

Added: agree, you may not need a GFCI breaker. Check you local code requirements carefully. GFCI's ARE needed in many locales for common outlets for 15 A appliances in kitchen areas near water, BUT not necessarily for a range. There are also the new AFCI device berakers and again I doubt you would need one of those.

 

[Sukhoi]

Double-check you need to run new wire. You probably do, but it isn't guaranteed. At my in law's place the builder ran 8 AWG, which is currently being used for the 120 V 15 A receptacle, in addition to the gas line. Of course they didn't figure that out until after they bought a new gas stove.

 

[pete6032]

Quick question has anyone used one of these surface mount outlets before? If I'm using 6AWG wire would this be easier to install than a wall outlet box?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-50-Amp-Single-Surface-Mounted-Single-Outlet-Black-55050/202077645

Also the range I'm looking at only requires 40 amps, which I think I could get away with doing 8AWG. Is it recommended I just bite the bullet and wire 6AWG in case I ever want a higher power induction range? I see some of the higher end models are 50 amps.

 

[pete6032]

Double-check you need to run new wire. You probably do, but it isn't guaranteed. At my in law's place the builder ran 8 AWG, which is currently being used for the 120 V 15 A receptacle, in addition to the gas line. Of course they didn't figure that out until after they bought a new gas stove.

Not so lucky unfortunately. Only power is 12 gauge wire that powers gas igniter.

 

[Paperdoc]

Some details to check with local electrical codes.
1. As a general rule, most codes require that the wire cable and fixtures installed should be sized so that the max sustained current use is not over 80% of the rated max of the wire / fixture. So, may cables sold to attach to a bare range are rated for 50 A, so that a range up to 40 A max current use meets this rule. Likewise, the socket fixture mounted in the wall must match the plug on the cable, and the prong configuration is often different for different amp ratings.
2. The same rule applies for the cable you run up to the wall mounting box. NOTE that the max amps rating for the SAME wire gauge is DIFFERENT, depending on the TEMPERATURE rating of that cable. So, an 8 Gauge cable is rated for 40 A max if it is a 60° C (Not Fahrenheit) cable, but for 50 A if the cable is rated for 75° C. Thus WATCH the cable TEMPERATURE rating as well as its gauge.
3. A surface mount box and fixture as you link above may be acceptable in your area, maybe not. Check the local codes to be sure. Such a unit may be easier to install than cutting into a wall, BUT in either case you MUST fasten it very securely to some underlying solid support like a stud or two. No simple plaster wall anchors will do. The forces involved in plugging and unplugging the connectors are much more than a common lamp cord.
4. Your thoughts about future uses are worth considering. Try to figure out clearly what is the actual maximum amp use of the induction range you plan, then apply that 80% rule to scale up. Many common ranges actually use around 30A as a common max load, so the 40 A sizing is OK. But some use more, and that's why the commonly-used plug cords and wall sockets are rated for 50 A, and so should be the cables in the walls, so that they CAN suit any possible 40 A ranges. Now, you say that SOME induction ranges may be even higher and that MIGHT require components for 60 A to meet the 80% rule. HOWEVER, that could mean using a DIFFERENT plug and socket prong configuration that would NOT match the plug commonly on a 40 / 50 A cable. So look very closely at the specs for induction ranges. Are they telling you the max amps they actually USE? Or, is the spec the recommended Amps RATING of the CABLE and OUTLET you install?

 

[Greenman]

Check the clearance specs on the stove before using a surface mount box. Some of then are very tight. Drywall is easy to cut and easy to patch.

 

[herm0016]

I don't like the surface mount outlets like that. way more chance they get damaged, just get a remodel 2 gang box and an NM (non-metallic) connector rated for the size wire, probably a 3/4 or 1 in trade size, as most remodel boxes are not range boxes with provision for large wire. sucure your wire within 12 inches of the box and panel if they are accessable and a min of 4.5 feet between.

table 210.24 is where you need to size your wire. a range is a continuous load, so you multiply your FLA by 125% which gives you 50 amps, table says you need #6. i would install a nema 14-50 outlet and cord and run 6-3 NM wire so that you are good to go for nearly any range having the Neutral conductor at the outlet. your plug and receptacle arrangement counts for the disconnecting means.

Some details to check with local electrical codes.
1. As a general rule, most codes require that the wire cable and fixtures installed should be sized so that the max sustained current use is not over 80% of the rated max of the wire / fixture. So, may cables sold to attach to a bare range are rated for 50 A, so that a range up to 40 A max current use meets this rule. Likewise, the socket fixture mounted in the wall must match the plug on the cable, and the prong configuration is often different for different amp ratings.

80 % is for continious loads, and you should not load your overcurrent protection device above around 80%. nothing to do with wire size unless its a continuous load. so you are sorta correct and sorta wrong.

2. The same rule applies for the cable you run up to the wall mounting box. NOTE that the max amps rating for the SAME wire gauge is DIFFERENT, depending on the TEMPERATURE rating of that cable. So, an 8 Gauge cable is rated for 40 A max if it is a 60° C (Not Fahrenheit) cable, but for 50 A if the cable is rated for 75° C. Thus WATCH the cable TEMPERATURE rating as well as its gauge.

in RES you really dont have to worry about all that because you are not using wire ampacity in 310.16, you are using table 210.24. which is more restrictive. and you almost never can even buy anything rated lower than 90 c these days. plus even if your wire is rated at 90c, if its NM cable you have to use the 75 degree column in 310.16 and show your calculations if an inspector askes. if you just use 210.24 you are good to go with no other work involved.

3. A surface mount box and fixture as you link above may be acceptable in your area, maybe not. Check the local codes to be sure. Such a unit may be easier to install than cutting into a wall, BUT in either case you MUST fasten it very securely to some underlying solid support like a stud or two. No simple plaster wall anchors will do. The forces involved in plugging and unplugging the connectors are much more than a common lamp cord.

there will be no code that says a listed outlet is unacceptable. UL would have a fit! haha

4. Your thoughts about future uses are worth considering. Try to figure out clearly what is the actual maximum amp use of the induction range you plan, then apply that 80% rule to scale up. Many common ranges actually use around 30A as a common max load, so the 40 A sizing is OK. But some use more, and that's why the commonly-used plug cords and wall sockets are rated for 50 A, and so should be the cables in the walls, so that they CAN suit any possible 40 A ranges. Now, you say that SOME induction ranges may be even higher and that MIGHT require components for 60 A to meet the 80% rule. HOWEVER, that could mean using a DIFFERENT plug and socket prong configuration that would NOT match the plug commonly on a 40 / 50 A cable. So look very closely at the specs for induction ranges. Are they telling you the max amps they actually USE? Or, is the spec the recommended Amps RATING of the CABLE and OUTLET you install?

yes, pay attention to the lables on the numbers. it may say max OCPD in which case you just ust that size breaker and size your wire for it directly as they have taken other factors into account.

if it says FLA then they have not taken into account other factors. i would still run 6-3 nm either way and use the proper breaker for the applience. that way if you want somthing different in the future, you just swap to the correct size breaker, not to exceed 50a on #6.

2020 code says everything in a basement must be GFI. includes 220 equip. spec says everthing 130 to ground or less. a 220 oulet is 120 to ground from each leg to get you 240 between the hots.