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If someone already installed an Athlon XP, please help

SpyKey

Member
I am building my first system, and just received a mobo and a retail CPU combo from one of the retailers.
In the instructions, at the step where it describes installation of the heatsink, it mentions removing plastic from the hetsink and has a picture depicting that step. Well, my heatsink had no plastic, instead there was some putty looking layer. Is that a thermal compund of some sort? SHould I leave it there?

TIA for any help 😕
 
Yes the putty substance is necessary. MAKE SURE there is no surface protection tape on the substance prior to the installation of the heatsink.
 
I am not sure if this is the same stuff or not so you may want to ask around. A year or so ago there was some stuff like what you are describing for your HS and in order to install it correctly you had to unplug your fan and turn on the computer and go into the BIOS and look at the TEMPS for the chip. Once it got to say 130 degrees then turn it off and plug the fan in and you should be good to go.

This is what I remember.
 


<< I am not sure if this is the same stuff or not so you may want to ask around. A year or so ago there was some stuff like what you are describing for your HS and in order to install it correctly you had to unplug your fan and turn on the computer and go into the BIOS and look at the TEMPS for the chip. Once it got to say 130 degrees then turn it off and plug the fan in and you should be good to go.

This is what I remember.
>>



That doesn't make a lot of sense. I can't see a CPU or HSF vendor recommending this, since it can easily lead to heat damage, and I don't see any benefit. The AMD manual that comes with the cpu clearly states to not power up the MB without a HSF in place.

-j
 
I know it does not make sense if you have never ran into this. The proble the existed was quite simple. the compound that was used was not melting / molding to the CPU. With this not molding to the CPU the temps were reported to be high and consumers complained that the HS were a POS. Once the consumers actually read the installation instructions all was well.
 


<< That doesn't make a lot of sense. >>



Yes, it does, if you understand the products, the science behind them... and the fact that BiggDog implied (but didn't state) that the heatsink was to be mounted FIRST. When I say that he implied it, common sense would dictate that a) the compound on the bottom of the heatsink wouldn't be altered unless it were in contact with the CPU, and b) why unplug the fan if the heatsink weren't mounted in the first place?

Anyway... on to the explanation.

The square of gummy stuff, often pink in color, is thermal interface material with phase change characteristics. What this means, is that it is a bit hard but sticky before it is installed properly. After proper installation, which usually requires the chip to get up to the 55C range, the material is permanently altered to a VERY gummy, sticky substance. The advantage of this is that you can apply the substance to a surface, like the bottom of a heatsink, from a roll of precut squares and it isn't a total mess. Later, when subjected to the proper heat, the substance melts down and becomes more liquidy... at that point it gently flows into every nook and cranny between the heatsink and the CPU, and stays there permantent making contact and filling all of the heat holding thermal voids. If you ever remove an AMD CPU that has been properly installed with the stuff you can pretty much read all of the CPU etchings in the gum, only in reversed letters.

The standard way to apply the stuff is to insert your CPU and heatsink as normal, but with the CPU fan unplugged. Boot the machine and go into the BIOS area of your motherboard that has the hardware monitoring. Wait at the temperatures climb because of no having the fan blowing (note, this is NOT the same as not having a heatsink installed... with a good heatsink it still takes a couple of minutes for the CPU to get up to the 55C needed). Once the temperature reached 55C, exit your BIOS and turn the machine off. The phase change has now taken place. Plug your fan back in and proceed as normal.

I don't have time to give you all of the background for all of the different companies that make these materials, but I figured that I should provide something, so I snatched the data from Thermagon, who is the manufactured of the gum that ThermalTake uses. Information about the line of phase change materials can be found Here. There are also a couple of PDF's that have more detailed info.... I'll give you a couple of the highlights:



<< T-pcm 900 Series? is a high performance, non-electrically conductive phase change material. At 50°C, T-pcm begins to soften and flow, filling the microscopic irregularities of both the thermal solution and the integrated circuit package surfaces, thereby reducing thermal interface resistance. T-pcm 900 is a flexible solid at room temperature and freestanding without reinforcing components that reduce thermal performance. >>



And From One Of The PDF's



<< 3. For parts individually cut:
b. Remove one liner and position the part onto the thermal solution. There is about
a 1-2 minute dwell time in which T-pcm will wet to the thermal solution surface.
c. Once the thermal solution is ready to be assembled the top liner should be
removed.
4. Once the device has been mounted, the T-pcm will soften and fill the interstitial
voids on the parts surfaces when heated to 50-70°C. This serves to decrease the
contact thermal resistance between the parts and thus, reduce the overall thermal
resistance.

5. After the first time T-pcm goes through its phase change between 50-70°C the
interface thickness will be set and the interface resistance will remain constant.
>>



Hope this clears the matter up.

BTW, just for future knowledge, although all of us are fallible, BiggDog has been around for a LONG time. I've dealt with him since before the internet was even popular, when my machine was a 386sx with 4 megs of RAM and 97 Megs of Hard Drive space (two drives). He's built dozens and dozens[/b] of machines of all varieties for well over a decade. He's also been a valued member of these boards LONG before we had 2500 members. He did leave out being blatant about needing the heatsink in place, but in general, if he gives you the info on how to do something with a computer, you can take it to the bank.

Joe
 


<< I am not sure if this is the same stuff or not so you may want to ask around. A year or so ago there was some stuff like what you are describing for your HS and in order to install it correctly you had to unplug your fan and turn on the computer and go into the BIOS and look at the TEMPS for the chip. Once it got to say 130 degrees then turn it off and plug the fan in and you should be good to go.

This is what I remember.
>>




130°C?! You will burn out the CPU in short order.
 
Yes, the pink substance on your heatsink is the thermal paste. My retail 1700+ didn't have a plastic layer either. Leave it there.
 
Man... do we have some conclusion jumpers or what!?!?!



<< 130°C?! You will burn out the CPU in short order. >>



Please show me where anyone mentioned 130C.

OTOH, I did mention 55C. Hmmm... let's see... 130 minus 32 divided by 5/9 = [/b]54.45C[/b].

DAMN BiggDog!... let's cut out the inaccuracies... this time you were off by more than 1/2 of a degree! 😉

Joe
 
I was under the "ASS U Mption" that we all would know to put a heat sink on first and I also assumed that 130 degrees celcius would be a bit high so that would leave us with 130 degrees F.

I will be more careful of what I say from now on.

thanks NETOPIA for thos kind words.
 


<< Much better off scraping that off with flat edge of a razor blade/alcohol and apply some ASII >>



Hmmm you don`t need too, AS is only better by few degrees and really only needed if you want to overclock and need the lowest possible temp,people forget good case and cpu fans also do wonders,I`ve never bothered with AS and still get great temps due to my fans etc and good case 🙂.


🙂
 


<< <<Hmmm... let's see... 130 minus 32 divided by 5/9 = 54.45C.>>

Is this a new form of math? 😉
>>




i think we all know what was meant...
130 minus 32 multipliedh by 5/9 = 54.45C
or
130 minus 32 divided by 9/5 = 54.45C
 
DOH!

I guess I'm not along in ASSuming that people know some basics. Thanks for pointing it out rahvin.... (BTW, long time no debate! 😉)

For those that don't know, to convert degree's Fahrenheit to degree's Celsius:

Temperature C = (5/9)*(Temperature F - 32)

To convert Celsius to Fahrenheit, it's:

Temperature F = ((9/5)*Temperature C) +32


So, if you want to see what the aforementioned 130 degrees would be in Celsius,

C = (5/9) * (130 -32)
C = (5/9) * 98
C = .5555 * 98
C = 54.439


I tend to use the "short form" when I'm dealing with computer temps.

C -> F

TempF = (TempC * 1.8) + 32

F -> C

TempC= (TempF -32) * .55


In the 130 degree F example, that would come out to 53.9 C, which is close enough a tolerance for our usage.



DOUBLE DOH!!!!!

rahvin, I just noticed why you commented! I didn't notice that I have put in DIVIDED instead of TIMES in my initial post!

Guess you're right.... that's some "new math" alright! Today must be "errors and ommisions day!


Joe
 
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