shortylickens
No Lifer
- Jul 15, 2003
- 82,854
- 17,365
- 136
balloonshark
Diamond Member
- Jun 5, 2008
- 6,342
- 2,771
- 136
Amazon has a Mercer 8" and 9" chefs knife and 7" santoku on sale today. Saw the deal on sd.
BoomerD
No Lifer
- Feb 26, 2006
- 63,012
- 11,397
- 136
Those look pretty nice. Japan or China?
Edit...appears most of their knife- making process is in China...and they don't review well...
A New Chef's Knife From Misen Promises Pro Quality For $65. But It Doesn't Make the Cut
A new chef's knife from Misen promises high-grade steel, a santoku-style blade angle, and free sharpening for life, all for $65.
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you can find these on Amazon. razor sharp, durable and if you need another they are cheap enough to buy another.
Restaurant Equipment and Supplies Online : Restaurant Depot: Chef Knife
Shop RDStore for the highest quality restaurant equipments including cooks kitchen supplies, chefs equipment and kitchen supplies and related products for professional and residential chefs.
www.therdstore.com
zinfamous
No Lifer
- Jul 12, 2006
- 110,636
- 29,292
- 146
Those look pretty nice. Japan or China?
Edit...appears most of their knife- making process is in China...and they don't review well...
A New Chef's Knife From Misen Promises Pro Quality For $65. But It Doesn't Make the Cut
A new chef's knife from Misen promises high-grade steel, a santoku-style blade angle, and free sharpening for life, all for $65.www.wired.com
Interesting.
What I can say in my ~2-years use of the chef's knife (same design in this review), is that it isn't as sharp, dependable as my 2 primary Shun knives (8" Santoku and 12" ..uh, I call it a machete. let's call it a Chef's knife), but the 3 knife set in total was ~half cheaper than any one of those single Shun knives, lol.
The blade has held up well for 2 years without sharpening, but definitely needs it. One problem is that it stains very easy...extremely easy. I'm assuming it's an issue with the steel grade, and/ot a single evening when I didn't clean it because I passed out after hosting a party? Most likely some combo of the two. The Shun knives don't have this problem, except the steel on the 12" is even softer, and scraped up very easy after some unseen debris was found in the hard scabbard that came with the knife (I still keep it in that; though the early scratches on the sides of the knife seem permanent, the edge isn't effected.
I still can't imagine a better deal than the 3 set Misen knives for $90. Take care of them and they will last beyond Boomer age...I guarantee it!
I guess one decent review for sharpness is that, after late parties and being a bit, uh drunk, I tend to do stupid washes on these knives....the Shun 12" has injured me far more often than the Misen or the Shun 8" Santoku when I do the stupid wash (blade up and perpendicular to the sink, not sitting flush against the basin, where it can't really cut you). I've had some serious passes and misses with all of them, but only the Shun knives have given me gushers on my fingers.
Paladin3
Diamond Member
- Mar 5, 2004
- 4,933
- 877
- 126
I vote for hitting the local thrift stores and learning to sharpen. Lots of folks buy good knives then toss them out when they've totally ruined the edge.
A steel is only useful for straightening up folder over edges, it doesn't actually remove metal from the knife and sharpen, but it is the tool you will use most often to touch up the blade. Any old steel will do, so I pick them up for a $1 at the thrift store. Same with an old leather belt for $1 that I use for stropping.
A cheap, man-made course/medium stone from the dollar store works well too. You won't use it too often except when the knife is really dull or you want to reprofile the edge.
The only thing you need to spend a bit of money on is a decent fine stone, and even then not more than $20. Don't bother with jewelers paste or anything for your strop either. Wipe the detritus from your stones onto the strop and use that.
It's also important you learn about edge geometry and matching the blade grind type and style up with the intended use for the knife. Nice knives are, well, nice, but you don't need to spend much to get the job done.
Oh, and one of my pet peeves is the long, heavy bolsters that extend all the way to the blade edge at the heel. If you do any kind of rocking motion when you cut they just annoyingly "thunk" on the cutting board while doing so.
And stainless steel is nice, but high carbon steel can be good too if you force a protective patina on it with lemon juice, mustard or vinegar. Stick to stainless if you don't wash, dry and lightly oil your blades immediately after using them.
Remember, before you do any sharpening, run your finger nail along the edge and look for where the edge has folded over. The first step is to always straighten up these fold-overs with a steel. Quite often this only will return a sharp blade to usability unless it's been neglected.
The course stones are for really dull blades, as they remove lots of metal. Course stones get your blade about 80% of the way back to sharp. Then spend some time refining the edge on a medium stone.
Fine and extra fine stones really polish the blade to sharp edge for good cutting. And then, if you really want to, take your sharp blade to a strop and polish it into a razor. This is overkill for working blades like a kitchen knife, IMHO.
And resist the temptation to sharpen the blade at too fine an angle as a delicate edge rolls more often and will dull quickly. This is why you touch up a knife with a steel as regular maintenance far more often that you actually sharpen it on a stone. And even then a fine stone will be used most often, with the course and medium stones saved for when the edge is practically ruined. Or a nice knife someone else ruined the edge on, that you buy for cheap at the thrift store and rescue.
EDIT: and make sure if you buy water stones that you soak them well before use. And only use oil on actual oil stones, because once you use oil on a water stone it will no longer absorb water very well. I tend to use oil on most of my stones, and only have one good Japanese water stone that I don't use much because I'm too lazy to wait while it soaks.
A steel is only useful for straightening up folder over edges, it doesn't actually remove metal from the knife and sharpen, but it is the tool you will use most often to touch up the blade. Any old steel will do, so I pick them up for a $1 at the thrift store. Same with an old leather belt for $1 that I use for stropping.
A cheap, man-made course/medium stone from the dollar store works well too. You won't use it too often except when the knife is really dull or you want to reprofile the edge.
The only thing you need to spend a bit of money on is a decent fine stone, and even then not more than $20. Don't bother with jewelers paste or anything for your strop either. Wipe the detritus from your stones onto the strop and use that.
It's also important you learn about edge geometry and matching the blade grind type and style up with the intended use for the knife. Nice knives are, well, nice, but you don't need to spend much to get the job done.
Oh, and one of my pet peeves is the long, heavy bolsters that extend all the way to the blade edge at the heel. If you do any kind of rocking motion when you cut they just annoyingly "thunk" on the cutting board while doing so.
And stainless steel is nice, but high carbon steel can be good too if you force a protective patina on it with lemon juice, mustard or vinegar. Stick to stainless if you don't wash, dry and lightly oil your blades immediately after using them.
Remember, before you do any sharpening, run your finger nail along the edge and look for where the edge has folded over. The first step is to always straighten up these fold-overs with a steel. Quite often this only will return a sharp blade to usability unless it's been neglected.
The course stones are for really dull blades, as they remove lots of metal. Course stones get your blade about 80% of the way back to sharp. Then spend some time refining the edge on a medium stone.
Fine and extra fine stones really polish the blade to sharp edge for good cutting. And then, if you really want to, take your sharp blade to a strop and polish it into a razor. This is overkill for working blades like a kitchen knife, IMHO.
And resist the temptation to sharpen the blade at too fine an angle as a delicate edge rolls more often and will dull quickly. This is why you touch up a knife with a steel as regular maintenance far more often that you actually sharpen it on a stone. And even then a fine stone will be used most often, with the course and medium stones saved for when the edge is practically ruined. Or a nice knife someone else ruined the edge on, that you buy for cheap at the thrift store and rescue.
EDIT: and make sure if you buy water stones that you soak them well before use. And only use oil on actual oil stones, because once you use oil on a water stone it will no longer absorb water very well. I tend to use oil on most of my stones, and only have one good Japanese water stone that I don't use much because I'm too lazy to wait while it soaks.
Last edited:
[QUOTE = "SAWYER, publicación: 39845535, miembro: 19216"]
No quiero gastar mucho, he estado usando cuchillos baratos durante años y han hecho el trabajo, pero el que usé todo el tiempo finalmente se rompió. Lo usaré principalmente para cortar carne y papas
[/CITAR]
If you are still in the search I recommend these, I gave them to my mother and I am delighted. they are at a great price https://www.cuchilleriabarcelona.com/co-en-2805-ba-ceramic-knives-3-claveles.html
No quiero gastar mucho, he estado usando cuchillos baratos durante años y han hecho el trabajo, pero el que usé todo el tiempo finalmente se rompió. Lo usaré principalmente para cortar carne y papas
[/CITAR]
If you are still in the search I recommend these, I gave them to my mother and I am delighted. they are at a great price https://www.cuchilleriabarcelona.com/co-en-2805-ba-ceramic-knives-3-claveles.html
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