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I just bought a Subaru Forester, ** NEW QUESTION in old thread**

G

gotsmack

Diamond Member
I didn't buy the warrenty, but I have a new question.

I have a single knock sound when I drive the car the first 10 feet from cold start. Car has 700 miles on it and I noticed it recently. Is this normal? I'm going to ask the dealer when I take it in for the first oil change, but want an idea now so they don't lie to me.

Car is automatic and makes the noise at both backing up and moving forward. Doesn't make the noise after that first time and only from a cold start.

Thank you in advance



**************************************88
I bought a 2010 Forester a few days ago and pick it up this weekend.

They are probably going to try to sell me on the warranty when I pick up the car and I'm not against the buying the basic "Classic" warrenty, but how much should I be paying for it?

I will be driving about 20k miles a year on the parkway.

25% off what ever the normal list price is?

Thanks in advance
 
why do you need a warranty on a new car?

i'd just buy the car with no extras, and you can extend the warranty at a later date if desired (just not after the factory warranty is expired- read the fine print for specifics).
 
take care of it, it should be literally trouble free for at least 60K miles, and most likely way beyond that.

You are buying new car so that you don't have to fix it anytime soon 😀
 
Subarus are beastly (great) when it comes to reliability. Save for their head gasket problems on the 2.5's a few years back, there's nothing to worry about, really.
 
Hell no...don't get a warranty. Subaru's are solid and the likelihood of you using the warranty is small...and what little repairs might possible happen are likely to be less than the cost of the warranty.
 
The basic 3 year/36000 mile warranty is included, not an extra charge. You won't need to buy an extended warranty yet, you can shop around for one a few months before the factory warranty expires.
 
I've put 51,000 miles on my 06 Legacy wagon and have yet to take it back to the dealer for ANYTHING. All the basic maintenance has been done by me and none of it has been that hard to do.
 
I don't know about Subaru but I know for GM, you can wait til right before the first year is up and 12k miles and still pay the same rate for extended warranty. This way you get extra year and 12k more miles of warranty for the same price. That said I wouldn't recommend extended warranty on a Subaru.
 
I read this take on extended warranty on another forum- it convinced me not to bother with it.

Extended warranties are for people who don't understand the real risk of equipment failure and the economics behind the warranties. I?ve never bought an extended warranty on anything I?ve ever bought. Why? Simply because they don?t make economic sense. A recent article in Consumer Reports that studied the statistics from reader surveys found that only one in five responders said they had a net savings with an extended warranty. For automobiles 2/3s of the people with extended warranties recovered less than the warranty cost. Most of the other 1/3 recovered what the warranty cost and a few recovered more. Not very good odds in my opinion. As a mechanical engineer I know something about equipment failure scenarios. A new machine will have a higher than normal failure rate when new because of manufacturing and assembly errors that are inevitable. Sometimes called infant mortality. We don?t have to worry about those failures because that?s what the manufacturer?s warranty covers. So you have a free warranty that covers the car for 36,000 miles or 3 years. After that time period almost all manufacturing and assembly errors will have been found and we enter into the normal failure mode that is very low. After a period of use the machine finally goes into the ?worn out? failure mode where the failure rate once again begins to rise until the machine breaks. For an automobile the ?worn out? failure mode rate begins to rise at around 100,000 miles. So the main reason an ?extended warranty? is a waste of money is that it covers the most reliable part of an automobiles life. As a general rule, you should only insure for those losses that you can?t afford to cover yourself or for which there is an abnormally high and unpredictable risk factor. That?s why automobile insurance, health insurance, homeowners insurance make sense. Most people can?t afford to cover the potential catastrophic losses that these risks present. And the risk is always there. The risk doesn?t change over time. At any moment you may have a heart attack, a drunk driver runs into you, your home catches fire, etc. Automobile failures are not the same as discussed above. They are actually fairly predictable. High when new, low during the normal life and high again as they wear out. A number of people note that the car has a lot of costly electronics that can fail. All that I?ve noted above applies to electronics as well. In fact it is even truer for electronic failures. So it really comes down to playing the odds. The people selling the extended warranties know what the risk is that they are taking. They are the house. They have all the statistics If they are selling a policy for $1500 they know that the vast majority of owners will make claims that are well below that number and that?s how they make money. If you can afford a car, you can afford to be the house and cover the potential costs of repairs. Put that money that you were going to spend for an extended warranty into a savings account and let it earn interest and use that account to cover repairs. Most likely when you are ready to sell the car there will still be money in that account that you can use to cover your new car. Bottom line, the best extended warranty is a savings account.
Click to expand...
 
I didn't buy the warrenty, but I have a new question.

I have a single knock sound when I drive the car the first 10 feet from cold start. Car has 700 miles on it and i noticed it recently. I have had this car for maybe 3.5 weeks. Is this normal? I'm going to ask the dealer when I take it in for the first oil change, but want an idea now so they don't lie to me.

Thank you in advance
 
Originally posted by: woodie1
Is your car a manual or automatic? Is the noise when backing up or moving forward?
Click to expand...

Auto, makes the noise at both backing up and moving forward. Doesn;t make the noise after that first time and only from a cold start.
 
From my experience it can be one of the axles knocking around in the steering knuckle. Usually this happens from the axle nut not being tightened enough. The noise will go away when load is placed on the axle in either drive or reverse.
 
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