I have almost made up my mind concerning which PSU to purchase

[JEDIYoda]

I did alot of checking and side by side comparisons....
So I narrowed it down to 2 different brands...
SinTek 500SLI? Modular 500 Watt Power Supply
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/...uct_info&cPath=22_288&products_id=3454

and--
PCPower & Cooling
PC Power & Cooling Turbo Cool 425 Ultra Deluxe with PFC
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/...roduct_info&cPath=166&products_id=1913

At present moment I am leaning towards the SinTek...

I also like this Sintek...
SinTek 600SLI? Modular 600 Watt Power Supply
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/...uct_info&cPath=22_288&products_id=3455

As well as this one from PCPower &Cooling--
PC Power & Cooling Turbo Cool 510 Deluxe with PFC
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/...roduct_info&cPath=166&products_id=1115

I await your intelligent and educated comments! thx 🙂

 

[biostud]

PC P&C
I don't know if it's intelligent, but since PC P&C has a history of making the best PSU's I would go with those. Basically with a good PSU you don't need all the nobs and other stuff the Sintek seems to have installed. I would be pretty cautios using nobs to control my voltage, and with the PC P&C you'll be 100% sure the rails deliver what's needed.

Personally I'm buying a Seasonic S-12 600W because low noise is a major issue to me.

 

[JBDan]

PCP&C. I know you know I feel this way already, but get the best and do the fan mod. It brings pleasure to your ears and your rails stick w/in 1% unddr load and at idle. They really don't budge!!!

 

[JEDIYoda]

🙂

 

[GalvanizedYankee]

Get the PC P&C. The high output, high end ones are still made in Taiwan by...ZIPPY!!

The lower end models are being produced in China. How does this old man know this??

At 10:00am I ordered from BTOS(buildtoorderservers) a HP2-6460P @ $85+$15 for a hard wired thermal control for the fan(to be installed here in the States)+$3 for the addapter
EPS to ATX(I will use the plug housings and wire color code as a guide when the EPS plug is change over) George a multilanguage head salesman at BTOS was more than happy to call Taiwan and check on the option for the little thermal board. He called me back in 15 minuets to conferm. He was reluctant to state that ZIPPY's factory did in fact produce PC P&C and even more so to cop to the fact that the lower end ones are made in China. This PSU will last me till the grave 😛 I hope it lasts 20years 😉 George said he will call me the day it ships. Not Email, like the telephone. Should be here Friday.

OCZ also has voltage control ka-n00bs on the PSU..WHY? The most important voltage is controlled by the mainboard regulators. PLZ, correct me if i'm wrong on this point.
These v/controls on the PSU are marketing hoop-la. Crank up the voltage so the MB
has to control it. My short study about PSUs has lead me to feel this way. So a link showing that i'm in error would be appreciated, not only by me but by those that buy into
the marketing bells and whistles.

PC P&C will retro fit most anything you need for the life of the unit,iirc, that is a very long time. So buy the PC P&C allready JediYota.



Galvanized

 

[Bona Fide]

PC Power & Cooling is the Rolls-Royce of power supplies. If you get one, you can rest assured knowing that it will probably outlive you.

 

[JEDIYoda]

Thats why I keep sliding between the PC Power & Cooling Turbo cool510 SLI and the SinTek 500SLI? Modular 500 Watt Power Supply .....

The PCP&C 425W deluxe also looks nice.....

 

[Zepper]

SINtech NO! - unknown quantity. Could be another Ultra X-Connect lying in wait for the rubes... You can catch the arrows if you want to - by my guest.

PCP&C always a safe choice - but the TurboCool series can be a bit noisy. The one you linked looks like it has a Channel Well PCB in there. +12 only 20A. AC input not full range - two ranges with aPFC.

Zippy HG2-6400P - 30A on the +12 (even the HG2-6300 has 22A for $75 at the Egg) - automatic full range (~90 to 240V) AC input (no switch) w/ aPFD makes it more immune to line side garbage. Zippy says output reg +/-5%. My measurements of the two Zippys I've had here that any error exists at the second decimal place/! Gravy: still made in Taiwan, nickel plated chassis for better EMI/RFI shielding and good looks/corrosion protection (seldom seen any more). $86 at the Egg (OOS and unlisted at the moment) $76. at Xxera (at your own risk - guy that I dealt with was a flake). So you have to dress up your own cables - big woop. Supposed to be available for around $86. at http://www.MyAOpen.com but IDK about their rep. I'd call BTOS too to see if they could hook you up. Do you doubt my choice here?

G-Y,
. It is nice to have some fine output voltage adjustment available (Zippy's are on the inside and doped to prevent idle tampering 😉 ), as long as the underlying PSU quality is there. So if one is really sharp, he/she can take his/her meter and tune the voltages on the far side of the ATX connector to be a tad above nominal (to compensate for any loss in the wiring). Even though all important voltages are regulated locally on the mobo, the higher the difference between the input voltage to the regulators and the nominal output voltage, the better the overall stability and cleanness of the output. Wise guys and other OCing types will tune to the high end of tolerance (12.6-13v, ~5.25V, etc. - be careful on the 3.3 as that is sometimes used directly) just for that slight extra edge. Nudging just a tiny tad over nominal is good enough.
. Just a reminder - NEVER adjust without an accurate meter. I have read in these forums of some here using their "hardware monitor" program's voltage readings to do their adjusting - Danger Wil Robinson, Danger!!! :shocked: Some people shouldn't be allowed to have computers... 😉

.bh.

 

[GalvanizedYankee]

Thank you Zepper, I appreciate sitting here corrected. I doubt if I will ever need to nudge my
V/settings. The bleeding edge OCers can pu$h the envelope for all. It$ their money.
At some distant time I might. Never say never 😉

In the past i did diesel repair on trucks and offshore oil platforms. The enviroment that the onboard computers that monitored and regulated the fuel systems was hostel to say the least. I know what line loss does to sensitive electronics.

I still have the VG multimeter that was used back then. On one job I couldn't get it right, everytime contacts were checked a different reading would come up. It was not until the removable connections were cleaned and their ports on the meter, that consistent readings could be had. The point for me is to check the meter against a known.
Another point is why have a modular PSU that just offers another slip-on connection to
build resistance? Modular makes it easy to get a nice cable run, but how many times is that run going to have to be done again?

The high end unit I just ordered JEDIYota has a massive +5V output of 40A. On me that will be a waste as the most it will probably support is a RAID5.

The PCP&C is most definatly the way to go. The thought of having some funny friend twisting
my knobs while I'm away. *Shudders*

When I google a PSU that someone posts about and nothing comes up..Fly by night comes to mind. Not with this other unit but several in the past.

Spending >$100 on a PSU is not to be taken lightly by most. I know we will be kept informed
on your choice OP, look forward to the report 🙂


Galvanized

 

[CraKaJaX]

PC P&C 510. It's a work of art, really!