HVAC replacement ?

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bamx2

Senior member
Oct 25, 2004
483
1
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I think the time has come to replace my 2 18 year old HVAC systems installed by previous owner (Goodman ! 10 seer / 80% gas furnace ) . They are still running but one of the systems has a noisy fan and needed a small amount (<1/2 lb) of R22 added this season (first time in my 14 years of living here).

I want to get something more efficient that has good longevity (minimum 14 AC seer now required in my region ). Any recommendations for best value HVAC brands ? - Thanks
 
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jaha2000

Senior member
Jul 28, 2008
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Where do you live?
Probably going to dictate a lot of what type of recommendations you get.
Living in the great white north, I went with a variable speed air source heat pump. Technology has come a long way on this front in the last few years and my heating bill went down dramatically.
I went with Bryant for my gear.
 
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bamx2

Senior member
Oct 25, 2004
483
1
81
Metro Atlanta, GA so I would need a gas furnace or dual fuel system. I just want a middle of the road system ( the simpler the better - less to fail, lower repair cos )

jaha2000 said:
Where do you live?
Probably going to dictate a lot of what type of recommendations you get.
Living in the great white north, I went with a variable speed air source heat pump. Technology has come a long way on this front in the last few years and my heating bill went down dramatically.
I went with Bryant for my gear.
Click to expand...
 
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RagingBITCH

Lifer
Sep 27, 2003
17,618
2
76
A new system is undoubtly more efficient but calculating that ROI when it starts to pay for itself is hard. By the time that day comes around, you're probably in the market for a new system, again.

I'm not arguing against it, just heard the whole sales pitch last week when they replaced the blower motor/wheel on the air handler. We have Lennox compressors outside combined w/ Payne air handler/furnace inside. (Payne = Carrier's "basic" level) Had the same combo at the last house as well. Only problem I've had w/ either or was said blower motor/wheel. If not for a time crunch having the in-laws in town last weekend, I'd have replaced the parts myself. ($250 actual cost)
 
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bamx2

Senior member
Oct 25, 2004
483
1
81
I am thinking about just changing the fan motor (DIY) and trying getting some more life out of the upstairs system. However, we had to remove some diseased trees (now more solar heat) and could use a little more cooling capacity upstairs ( go from 2.5 tons to 3.0 tons) and the upstairs barely cools on hot 95f + day. Most of my neighbors with similar style houses are running 3.0 - 3.5 ton systems upstairs. I would probably replace it if I can get quality made equipment installed at the right price point. I am OK with using using the models with fewer features -ie basic. I just want it to last.



RagingBITCH said:
A new system is undoubtly more efficient but calculating that ROI when it starts to pay for itself is hard. By the time that day comes around, you're probably in the market for a new system, again.


I'm not arguing against it, just heard the whole sales pitch last week when they replaced the blower motor/wheel on the air handler. We have Lennox compressors outside combined w/ Payne air handler/furnace inside. (Payne = Carrier's "basic" level) Had the same combo at the last house as well. Only problem I've had w/ either or was said blower motor/wheel. If not for a time crunch having the in-laws in town last weekend, I'd have replaced the parts myself. ($250 actual cost)
Click to expand...
 
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Greenman

Lifer
Oct 15, 1999
22,280
6,452
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The running hardware is only half of the equation, you need to evaluate insulation and air leakage in your house and in the existing duct work.
 
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Blain

Lifer
Oct 9, 1999
23,643
3
81
Have you thought of window film?
Simple and cheap to install.
What's the attic ventilation like?
Poor ventilation will cook your shingles and allow heat to migrate into your living area.
Might possibly be a cheap and easy fix.
 
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bamx2

Senior member
Oct 25, 2004
483
1
81
I will look into window film.

I probably could improve the upstairs cooling by improving attic ventilation, duct sealing and adding more duct insulation . Attic temperatures now reach 120 deg F on very hot days.(charcoal black roof, soffit vents are not blocked and have ridge vent).

Unfortunately, some of the ductwork in the attic is not accessible from to seal and
re-insulate. I would have to remove drywall ceilings with 16 of inches blown-in fiberglass insulation above in those locations .
 
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Blain

Lifer
Oct 9, 1999
23,643
3
81
The blown-in insulation isn't blocking the soffit vents, is it?
Adding a solar power vent to the roof or gable would really help suck that hot air out.
The 30% Federal tax credit expires at the end of this year.
 
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bamx2

Senior member
Oct 25, 2004
483
1
81
Soffit vents are not blocked. I have read that one should not to mix power vents and passive vents.

Blain said:
The blown-in insulation isn't blocking the soffit vents, is it?
Adding a solar power vent to the roof or gable would really help suck that hot air out.
The 30% Federal tax credit expires at the end of this year.
Click to expand...
 
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Blain

Lifer
Oct 9, 1999
23,643
3
81
True that a power vent pulls air in from the ridge as well as the soffits.
But the amount of air exchange with a good power vent would offset the negatives of a mixed vent setup.
One easy remedy for blocking the ridge vent would be to simply seal it up from the outside by spraying something like Flex Seal, LeakSeal or automotive undercoating.

Convection air circulation is basically free, but it's not as effective at cooling as a powered option.
Another benefit of lower attic space temps are that the shingles will last longer.
 
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paperfist

paperfist

Diamond Member
Nov 30, 2000
6,539
287
126
www.the-teh.com
bamx2 said:
Anyone know what spray foam costs per SF of roof deck ?
Click to expand...


They use board feet to calculate the spray foam costs. I believe I paid around $5k to do my whole roof deck, behind the knee walls, and dormer walls. I'll have to remeasure it tomorrow if you want to get an idea. I also did a bedroom and part of my rim joists so the price will be a little skewed.

It was done with close cell. I think my payback is going to be 3 years, it's very dramatic.
 
mindless1

mindless1

Diamond Member
Aug 11, 2001
8,756
1,761
136
If there's a leak you may find it's low again soon but the fan might just need a couple drops of oil in the bearings. Then again a tech can use a freon detector or dye can be put in the system.

Back in the day you were supposed to oil the fan bearings once a year, then they got rid of the lube hole and declared them magically lubed for life. Once a year may be excessive but I've kept a few fans going past the beginning of noise for several years now - long enough ago I can't recall the year.

What's the duty cycle on the unit when the upstairs is 95F? Most common solution to that is close the vents near the thermostat so it runs longer with higher CFM upstairs. Keeping the fan running or adding a helper fan, helps too though some helper fans are distractingly noisy.
 
herm0016

herm0016

Diamond Member
Feb 26, 2005
8,516
1,128
126
Ken g6 said:
Here's a crazy idea: a natural gas heat pump! Apparently they can be over 100% efficient heating and/or provide both heating and cooling from natural gas.
Click to expand...

OMG FREE ENERGY.

....:awe:

all heat pumps are "over 100%" efficient... that's the whole point. Physics is crazy yo.

gas heat pumps work just like a 3way fridge in a camper, using a burner to heat the refrigerant. Electric compressors are generally more efficient than gas absorption per unit of energy input. and I cant imagine the extra complexity of a gas system makes it more reliable.
 
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bamx2

Senior member
Oct 25, 2004
483
1
81
I am going to try to improve the attic ventilation first.

My plan is to first cut in some more soffit vent. The net free area is barely spec for the SF but then factor in that the 10/12 pitch (lots of area emitting radiant energy with black shingles unshaded).
 
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