How would you test my PC PSU?

[techmanc]

I suspect my PSU is no longer capable or running my PC as I been getting a lot of black screen issues while PC is still running in the background as I can see my G510 lcd is still showing my clock is still working.

The other thing thats happening is fan is going high speed.

This happens mostly when playing Destiny 2 which is running highest 4k setting made through Nvidia Geforce Experience.

My system is 1 year old top of the line skylake PC and was built for great 4k gaming and it was working for the most part of the last year that way.

So it usually ends up being GPU or PSU that can cause problems and reason GPU is ruled out.

1. I just swapped from my 1080 to 1080 ti recently and my system should be better at graphics not worse plus no problems playing with same GPU I am using in my other PC so thats my reasoning for it not being mostly likely the GPU.

2. main PC uses the most hard drives and other PSU drawing devices so that has me leaning to low performing PSU.

I just pulled the PSU to get the specs and found the link to view https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182072

So how can I test my PSU now in my PC to see if it needs to be replaced? Thanks.

Also just wanted to add how to determine if when I buy a new PSU if needed I want something that be able to handle all its needs guessing a 1000 PSU unit is the one to get as my replacement?

 

[mikeymikec]

Post your PC specs, otherwise there's nothing to base a PSU recommendation on.

 

[techmanc]

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125954
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16889356309
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820226596
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826197168
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819117559
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128835
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231916
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA5AD4ZU4417
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125869

Using Windows 10 Pro 64 bit and hooked up to a few more usb devices and 2nd Vizio 65" HDTV

 

[WilliamM2]

We are supposed check all those links to figure out what you are running?

If it were me, I would just buy a Power Supply tester. They are cheap.

 

[techmanc]

We are supposed check all those links to figure out what you are running?

If it were me, I would just buy a Power Supply tester. They are cheap.

its just 6 links to see exactly what my system is how is that not better than posting the specs here?

I have 2 power supply testers all they do is see if PSU works there is no load testing at least not with any cheap testors I know of?

When I took out my PSU other day to see what model it was I also tried different video card power connectors to see if it would help load balance the PSU swapping one of the connectors.

I now been running 3dMark stress tests and playing some Destiny 2 and no problems yet. I will be testing doing the extreme test Time Spy stress test now but with the test I just ran I got
GPU maxed 69C CPU maxed at 66C

 

[daveybrat]

That Rosewill 850Watt power supply has 17% 1 star reviews on Newegg. Most of the bad reviews are people saying that after upgrading to a GTX 970, 980, etc. that the system was crashing on them. Sounds like that's an overrated 850Watt unit.

And no, you don't need a 1000Watt power supply. What you need is a good quality Gold rated 650-850Watt power supply. (i.e. Seasonic, EVGA, Corsair).

 

[mindless1]

How many years (or maybe more applicable would be hours at med-high load) has this PSU been in service, or was it bought new a year ago like the rest? If out of warranty, (or if you can see inside good with the lid on still), pop the lid off and examine it for bulging capacitors.

You wrote the fan is running at high speed. Is it another one of those piece of crap sleeve bearing fans that shreds its bearings if the load causes heightened RPM and you don't lube it once a year? Maybe it's spinning fast but louder than usual because of wobble from a bad bearing, resulting in RPM loss and not pushing as much air as it used to? Is the case filtered or might there be dust buildup in it? These things may be obvious to you but we can't see the system.

How you would test the PSU is put it under the loads causing crashing and measure voltage and ripple. Since modern CPU and video can change power states so rapidly you probably need to log it to see any substantial (excessive) voltage dips, unless the measurement tool has max/min voltage feature.

 

[techmanc]

That Rosewill 850Watt power supply has 17% 1 star reviews on Newegg. Most of the bad reviews are people saying that after upgrading to a GTX 970, 980, etc. that the system was crashing on them. Sounds like that's an overrated 850Watt unit.

I am not big on using Rosewell and this would have been a PSU I bought at the time of my skylake build Nov 2016

And no, you don't need a 1000Watt power supply. What you need is a good quality Gold rated 650-850Watt power supply. (i.e. Seasonic, EVGA, Corsair).

Thats the main reason for this post was do I need 1k PSU now I can see if the one I been using is fixed as the next time it acts up I will install a replacement.

just found in my old parts an PSU that I may use if PSU needs to be replaced this is best weblink I have found http://www.thermaltake.com/products-model.aspx?id=C_00000982

 

[techmanc]

How many years (or maybe more applicable would be hours at med-high load) has this PSU been in service, or was it bought new a year ago like the rest? If out of warranty, (or if you can see inside good with the lid on still), pop the lid off and examine it for bulging capacitors.

You wrote the fan is running at high speed. Is it another one of those piece of crap sleeve bearing fans that shreds its bearings if the load causes heightened RPM and you don't lube it once a year? Maybe it's spinning fast but louder than usual because of wobble from a bad bearing, resulting in RPM loss and not pushing as much air as it used to? Is the case filtered or might there be dust buildup in it? These things may be obvious to you but we can't see the system.

How you would test the PSU is put it under the loads causing crashing and measure voltage and ripple. Since modern CPU and video can change power states so rapidly you probably need to log it to see any substantial (excessive) voltage dips, unless the measurement tool has max/min voltage feature.

This is not old crap everything was bought a Newegg or Amazon when I built the PC in Nov 2016 same time I got the PSU if you looked at the PSU link you see that its not that old a unit

Also I have no desire to take anything apart these days dealing with daily pain management just building this PC is the most I am able to do these days.

 

[techmanc]

I want to see if I can copy this from Beliac Advisor

Try BelManage, the Enterprise version of the Belarc Advisor
Operating System
Windows 10 Professional (x64) Version 1709 (build 16299.192)
Install Language: English (United States)
System Locale: English (United States)
Installed: 10/19/2017 1:56:13 AM
Servicing Branch: Current Branch (CB)
Boot Mode: Legacy BIOS in UEFI (Secure Boot not supported)
System Model
Gigabyte Technology Co., Ltd. Z170X-Gaming 7 Default string
System Serial Number: Default string
Asset Tag: Default string
Chassis Serial Number: Default string
Enclosure Type: Desktop
Processor a
4.00 gigahertz Intel Core i7-6700K
256 kilobyte primary memory cache
1024 kilobyte secondary memory cache
8192 kilobyte tertiary memory cache
64-bit ready
Multi-core (4 total)
Hyper-threaded (8 total)
Main Circuit Board b
Board: Gigabyte Technology Co., Ltd. Z170X-Gaming 7
Serial Number: Default string
Bus Clock: 100 megahertz
UEFI: American Megatrends Inc. F21 03/06/2017
Drives
9000.23 Gigabytes Usable Hard Drive Capacity
3800.61 Gigabytes Hard Drive Free Space

HL-DT-ST BD-RE WH14NS40 [Optical drive]
HL-DT-ST BD-RE WH14NS40 [Optical drive]

MKNSSDRE1TB [Hard drive] (1000.20 GB) -- drive 2, s/n MK160104100187E75, rev N1007C, SMART Status: Healthy
ST3000DM001-1CH166 [Hard drive] (3000.59 GB) -- drive 1, s/n W1F29AZZ, rev CC24, SMART Status: Healthy
ST5000DM000-1FK178 [Hard drive] (5000.98 GB) -- drive 0, s/n W4J0FT3P, rev CC47, SMART Status: Healthy
Memory Modules c,d
16342 Megabytes Usable Installed Memory

Slot 'ChannelA-DIMM0' has 8192 MB
Slot 'ChannelA-DIMM1' is Empty
Slot 'ChannelB-DIMM0' has 8192 MB
Slot 'ChannelB-DIMM1' is Empty
Local Drive Volumes
c: (NTFS on drive 2) * 998.79 GB 107.56 GB free
d: (NTFS on drive 0) 5000.98 GB 2779.52 GB free
e: (NTFS on drive 1) 3000.46 GB 913.53 GB free
* Operating System is installed on

 

[techmanc]

Now testing to see if others can see my 3dmark score posted on facebook https://www.3dmark.com/tsst/110135?utm_source=facebook&utm_medium=social&utm_campaign=result_share

 

[mikeymikec]

We are supposed check all those links to figure out what you are running?

If it were me, I would just buy a Power Supply tester. They are cheap.

Maybe we're talking about different kinds of tester, but the one I've got (which is cheap) basically tests whether a PSU is delivering on all relevant rails, not whether it can deliver the wattage it states in its specs. Since the OP's machine can boot, it's safe to assume that such a PSU tester is a waste of time, no? I use my tester on a PSU when a system won't switch on to see whether the PSU is completely dead or not.

 

[Campy]

850W is more than plenty for that system, the PSU is speced at 64Amps on 12V, or 770W. Still more than enough. However it's not a top quality PSU, and even quality parts can fail sometimes so maybe that's what happened.

If you're not overclocking I would have no qualms about running that system on a high quality 650W PSU. If you're in the US I recommend you get a Seasonic Focus Plus or Prime power supply rated at 650W or more. They have 10-12 years warranty so you'll be set for a while with one of those.

 

[DaveSimmons]

I run an i7-8700, 32 GB RAM, 980 ti, 3 x SSDs on my Seasonic 650 watt PSU but this is at stock speed.

 

[mikeymikec]

I just want to check that you guys spotted it: The OP provided two links for graphics cards, so I assume he's running 2x1080ti. Is a decent 650-850W PSU still enough?

When I was buying my 380X, people were advising a decent 650W PSU. Have graphics card power requirements come down a lot since then?

 

[Campy]

I just want to check that you guys spotted it: The OP provided two links for graphics cards, so I assume he's running 2x1080ti. Is a decent 650-850W PSU still enough?

When I was buying my 380X, people were advising a decent 650W PSU. Have graphics card power requirements come down a lot since then?

I assume he linked his previous card and then the one he upgraded to, since one is a 1080 and one is a 1080Ti. He also mentioned upgrading in his post and never mentioned SLI. Also his 3dmark score shows 1 card. But yeah if he was running 1080Ti SLI I would recommend 1000W+. If he was running one and planning to do a high overclock on it and the CPU simultaneously I would also recommend over 650W. But for stock operation 650W is good, even 550W can do the job most likely.

380X generation was inefficient in terms of power and I think a 380X uses around 200W.

 

[mikeymikec]

Ah, I missed that. I just wanted to make sure everyone was on the same page as I have no idea when it comes to power requirements of SLI rigs.

 

[techmanc]

I assume he linked his previous card and then the one he upgraded to, since one is a 1080 and one is a 1080Ti. He also mentioned upgrading in his post and never mentioned SLI. Also his 3dmark score shows 1 card. But yeah if he was running 1080Ti SLI I would recommend 1000W+. If he was running one and planning to do a high overclock on it and the CPU simultaneously I would also recommend over 650W. But for stock operation 650W is good, even 550W can do the job most likely.

380X generation was inefficient in terms of power and I think a 380X uses around 200W.

My old card was GTX 1080 which was upgraded to a 1080 ti and the 1080 has been working in the other PC it was moved to with no problems coming from that PC.
I may be able to use a lower watt PSU but personally I go no lower that 850 watt on my own PCs.

 

[techmanc]

still no problems since I changed one of the 2 power connectors to the card after running the highest 3dmark time spy stress test and.

Another problem I would was while playing Destiny 2.

I played the game today for a few hours with no problems so let see if when I make this post that I jinx myself lol.