How to tell when L1 bridges are closed using defogger?

[Garet Jax]

Hello all,

I have spent the better part of the afternoon closing my L1 bridges using the defogger kit and a screw driver for glasses.

Short of dropping my CPU back into my computer and flipping it back on, what is the best way to tell that the L1 bridges are closed?

Also, how long should I wait for the defogger compound to dry?

Thanks.

 

[Garet Jax]

Also,

Using the diagram below,

02468
.::::
13579

the goal is to connect 2 to 3, 4 to 5, 6 to 7 and 8 to 9.

What happens if I connect 2 or 3 to 4 or 5 (or something similar to other pins)?

 

[eLiu]

i dunno how long itll take to dry...but isnt the defogger liquid colored? I mean, if the circle-ish area at the end of each bridge is fully connected to each other...then i guess the bridges are closed.

and, AVOID CROSSING THE BRIDGES!! If it even looks like 2 is connected to 5, or the connection from 4-5 touches 6-7, clean it off and do it again- better safe than sorry.

Crossing the bridges can cause your CPU to "blow up" (not literally, but you get my point).

-eric

 

[Garet Jax]

eLiu,

Thanks for responding.

All,

I tried to connect the bridges using the defogger kit. Unfortunately, the tip of the pin was too small to pick up any of the liquid. As a result, I tried a number of other things and finally decided on the glass screw driver.

I tried and tried again. Finally, I thought I got it so I reapplied the arctic silver, dropped the CPU and HSF back into the computer and started it. Unfortunately, when I tried to adjust the multiplier up or down, my computer kicked me back into the BIOS. Oh well.

I am going to try a conductive pen. Is it any easier using a pin?

 

[bacillus]

a magnifying glass will help you tremendously in checking if the bridges are done properly!

 

[thaioneon]

I used the little brush that came with the bottle and cut all but a few hairs off using a exacto knife. A model building magnifying glass helps. You can drag a small drop of the fluid across the bridges and if you screw up just use the knife to scape it gently off.

 

[mstudd]

Garet Jax, you will still have the same problem with a conductive pen, the nib is too thick for the job. I used a pin to apply the ink.
I used acetone and a soft rag to wipe off all the bad attempts. When you get it right you will see 4 definite lines or blotches with gaps in-between.

 

[Garet Jax]

Hello all,

Thanks to all who responded.

I have finally solved the problem. I went back to the car place today to see if they had any different rear defogger kits. Low and behold they did.

The one I got yesterday was very granular. As result, it wouldn't stick on a toothpick or a pin because it wasn't a true liquid. The only things it would stick on were thicker. This made it impossible to connect the bridges properly.

The one I got today was a true liquid. As a result, I was able to use a toothpick to connect the L1 bridges with no problems. In fact, I am running some benchmarks on my OC'd machine as I browse through Anandtech

Thanks to everyone who helped.