How to Repair a Scratch in Computer Case?

[Belial88]

Scratched my black case (bitfenix shinobi). I used a bit of chaos black warhammer paint, seems a bit too gloss, doesn't quite do the trick. Maybe some sort of flat black spray paint? I don't know...

Thanks. Kinda ruins an otherwise stunning mod job I did tearing this case apart.

 

[Vectronic]

You could try de-glossing it... if you can scrap/chip off what you already put on (or if another layer won't be too thick).. paint it, wait till the paint is mostly dry, kinda sticky, and then put a piece of paper on the paint (like tissue on a shaving cut), pull it off... it'll give it a rougher surface.

A piece of fairly finely woven cloth would work too.

If the paint is thick enough already, or won't chip/come off... sand it, possibly just with paper again rather than *sand* paper. Use a ruler, or pencil, fold your sanding material around/over it... so you can try and limit it to just the painted area.

 

[Belial88]

i mean we are talking a 1 inch line, that isn't deep enough to have cut through the paint. Interesting idea, I think the problem though is the paint isn't quite the right type. I'll try it though, can't hurt. I've been using watered down paint and just going with layers, to prevent from doing anything stupid.

 

[Vectronic]

Have you tried a second opinion?... Show it to someone who doesn't know about the scratch, see if they notice.

You might only notice it because you know where it is, what happened, how you fixed it etc... seems obvious when really it isn't. Even if you got it perfect you'd probably still stare at that spot and "see" a difference.

Depending on how far your mods went, maybe just repaint all the metal parts? Or since it isn't through the paint, sand/buff.

 

[aigomorla]

impossible to fix from what ur telling me without sanding down the part and repainting a large portion over again.

You'll never get the paint to blend in otherwise.

 

[zebrax2]

Maybe you could try those car scratch remover things

 

[Belial88]

Have you tried a second opinion?... Show it to someone who doesn't know about the scratch, see if they notice.

You might only notice it because you know where it is, what happened, how you fixed it etc... seems obvious when really it isn't. Even if you got it perfect you'd probably still stare at that spot and "see" a difference.

Depending on how far your mods went, maybe just repaint all the metal parts? Or since it isn't through the paint, sand/buff.

no it's definitely obvious. If the light is at just the right angle, you might not notice... but literally, it's just a single angle where it's not visible, otherwise there's a very obvious different-black line.

And I don't care how obvious it may or may not be, I demand perfection, I spent money and time on this case, and if it makes a difference to you, let's say I made a huge scratch the length of my entire case, how do i fix it?

impossible to fix from what ur telling me without sanding down the part and repainting a large portion over again.

You'll never get the paint to blend in otherwise.

Would a ~1inch line warrant sanding down a large portion? Surely a matching paint just filled in the line would be enough, no?

But sure, I'm totally down with your suggestion. How do I sand it (what grit, with what, sanding sponge, paper, file, etc, wet or dry, etc), and what do I use to prime and paint?

 

[dkm777]

What kind of paint is used for this case? When I scratched my Fractal Design Define R3, that has a sort of rough, textured finish I managed to touch up the scratch using a q-tip soaked in paint thinner. Since the surface is rough already, it was easy. If your case has a smooth finish then I'm afraid only sanding and repainting will work.

 

[Belial88]

I mean it's your standard black powder steel case like any black computer case. Same as the R3. That's an interesting idea though. So what, use paint thinner to just bleed out the surrounding paint into the scratch?

 

[dkm777]

Yes, just let the paint melt a litle and gently smear it over the scratch. Work slowly, don't use force and that should do the trick.

 

[Belial88]

that's so weird, I haven't read anything about this method. You sure you aren't talking about on the plastic? Like my scratch is on the side panel, the steel side panel. Your R3 should be the exact same material as my case and any other steel cases in the body/sidepanel, I mean I've even used an R3.

 

[Meghan54]

I've used several things over the years to either cover scratches or paint small crap on a case. Have used Magic Markers to good effect and there are some hobby paint sticks/pens that I've used well, too (these are marketed towards the crafter/scrapbook-type crowd and found in places like Hobby Lobby, Michaels, and the like).

 

[Belial88]

^ So what do you recommend?

In the meantime, I'll see where I can get a tiny bit of thinner.

 

[dkm777]

that's so weird, I haven't read anything about this method. You sure you aren't talking about on the plastic? Like my scratch is on the side panel, the steel side panel. Your R3 should be the exact same material as my case and any other steel cases in the body/sidepanel, I mean I've even used an R3.

Sorry for not replying sooner, I was busy. Anyway, I was really talking about the metal side panel. The trick is to make the paint wet with the thinner (I think I used acetone) and then help it flow over the scratch with the q-tip. It worked for me, but my scratch wasn't very deep (didn't reach the metal).

 

[Belial88]

yea my scratch didn't reach the metal either.

I bought thinner, and 3 different 'satin' black paints (krylon Fusion for plastic, Krylon Primer+Paint, Rustoelum Stops Rust Satin, guy at hardware store says the black is more like a satin than a flat, and not a gloss for sure).

I can play around on plenty of spots - my removed hdd and cd bays, the little twist-off metal pieces that are in front of the cd bays, spots that you dont see on the case... will report back on what works best.

In all honesty, the chaos black model paint I used is okay. I mean it sticks out in certain angles (too flat i think, makes me also want to try using the warhammer purity seal semi-gloss matte varnish on the black warhammer paint to see if that makes it work), but not if you are more than 5 feet away so it's not a big deal. Like I wouldn't pay more than $20 to fix this... really shouldn't pay more than $10. or 5.

 

[Belial88]

So the rustoleum satin was too glossy, and the kyrlon primer+paint is too flat. But the fusion for plastic is a really good fit, you can't tell them apart except at an extreme angle where it's slightly flatter.

However I think the issue is also that the scratch causes a change in the surface, so even with the perfect color... it stills looks like a scratch. Going to try to sand it a bit with something, not sure what, see if I can make it work that way.

 

[Blain]

Some people are less demanding and can learn to live with just about anything.
I would have to refinish the whole case.
I couldn't live with a defect such as that.

 

[scannall]

Find a local place that does powder coating, and let them sand blast it, and powder coat it. Any color you like. Very durable finish that looks great.

 

[Belial88]

Powder coating places generally don't do this sort of thing, they do like cars or fleets of cars. I called around and it's basically $50 minimum. I mean let's say they're nice, it's still $25. It's just not worth it. I don't need to sandblast though, just sanding they said.

Also, using thinner did nothing. I wish you said acetone instead of thinner in the first place, they are different chemicals and I bought a whole jug of thinner, while I actually have acetone at a friend's house. I'll go try acetone in the future but I don't see it working see how useless thinner was. Didn't even take off the paint. Which I imagine is because thinner is for oil based paints, not water based paints... or powder, whatever it is.

Some people are less demanding and can learn to live with just about anything.
I would have to refinish the whole case.
I couldn't live with a defect such as that.
__________________

I know, I really can't. This case is really going to be special - i've modded it to fit an h110 in the front (it can't even fit an h100 in the front or an h110 in the top), the cut out window is really quite nice otherwise.

I'm going to keep playing around with paints and stuff, but it looks like sanding will have to be involved since matching the color is only half the battle. The scratch itself leaves a weird mark, a physical mark.

This really shouldn't be hard to do, I mean come on, am I the only guy who scratched their case? Every single modern computer case uses the same black powder coating, it's not like no one else knows exactly what paint to use.

 

[nitromullet]

Back in the old days before black optical drives we used vinyl dye to paint plastics. http://casemodgod.com/ModGuides/VinylDying/vinyl_dying.htm

 

[Belial88]

I've tried the following, with varying levels of success. There are 3 things to consider when matching a case's paint: Color, Sheen, and Texture.

Color is a simple match, but sheen can be hard to tell unless you compare it when dried out. Texture is pretty impossible to match, not sure what to do there, that's why you can't fix a scratch, only touch it up

Also, the problem with spray paints is that to really get it in the cracks of the scratch, you have to spray a lot. Spray a lot, and it's just this bug bulge... Any sort of sanding, and it becomes way to smooth (before, or after painting). Maybe use a brush for spray paints...

- Chaos Black Warhammer Paint. Too flat, too black, but actually is a pretty decent cover up.
- Krylon Fusion for Plastic Satin Black. Very similar in color and sheen, it's only slightly flat at an extreme angle.
- FolkArt Acrylic Hobby Paints (I literally tried every black, but closest matches are Outdoor and the Glass/Porcelain 'Enamel' which are too black). I tried the 'other' brand of black acrylic at walmart, it's obviously way too gray. Really bad choice, looks like tar and sticks out.
- Painter's Pen. Too black. Really bad choice, looks like tar and sticks out.
- Rust-O-Leum Satin. Too Glossy
- Krylon Paint+Primer Satin. Too Flat

I think warhammer paint or using a brush for spray paint would be your best bet. You want a 'satin', which is semi-gloss that is a bit more on the flat side (although I'm sure a semi gloss would do well). The biggest problem is that powder paint leaves a texture, so you'll never have a perfect scratch replacement. But for minor scratches, you can't tell.