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How to remove an E26 base from a 3" recessed lighting can?

BarkingGhostar

BarkingGhostar

Diamond Member
The Philips bulb separated from its E26 metal base when I was attempting to unscrew it. The light/lamp was out and when i went to twist it counter-clockwise it was dangling by one end of the tungsten conductor with the other still attached to the base. Anyone know how to get the base out? 😛
 
first turn the socket off
second flip the breaker for that socket to off
third flip the whole damn thing to off
fourth cut a raw potato in half, jam it into the socket, and start turning.
 
I came here to say potato. ElFenix beat me to it. I've never tried the potato method, I just use needlenose pliers, but I've heard that potatoes work quite well.
 
I'm going to have to do something that will get my wife raising an eyebrow. Because this is a 3" recessed can lamp the potato will need to be trimmed down to a narrow form. See, this is where the wife will think I'm making her adult disposable toys for her. Would a large carrot work better being that its composition it harder? Jesus the euphemisms are abound.
 
Carrot was my thought, too. As dullard said, needle-nose pliers are an alternative, but you'll need longer ones. The thin shaped brass base that is screwed into the socket if relatively soft. And as above, TURN OFF the power feed at your breaker panel and VERIFY it is "dead" - better the socket than you! To start, you work one tip of the pliers down between the base and the socket. If you can't, use a screwdriver in that small gap and bend the base inwards to make the gap wider. When you get the tip in there, clamp with the pliers and unscrew. The base will twist and distort badly, but it will unscrew.
 
I always use bulb lube now when I replace a bulb that has an aluminum base going into an aluminum socket and for all outdoor bulbs. Makes it easier to remove in the future. If the old one breaks I use needle nose pliers to remove it.

Light Bulb/Electrical Lubricant/Anti-Oxidant - Prevents Corrosion/Broken Bulbs, LED - 4' Bulbs, Refrigerator/Microwave, Stove Bulbs. 3 Way Plugs & Electrical Contacts. Non-Toxic Formula. - - Amazon.com

Light Bulb/Electrical Lubricant/Anti-Oxidant - Prevents Corrosion/Broken Bulbs, LED - 4' Bulbs, Refrigerator/Microwave, Stove Bulbs. 3 Way Plugs & Electrical Contacts. Non-Toxic Formula. - - Amazon.com
www.amazon.com
 
dullard said:
I came here to say potato. ElFenix beat me to it. I've never tried the potato method, I just use needlenose pliers, but I've heard that potatoes work quite well.
Click to expand...

Yes, I start with a needlenose. But if it puts up a fight then I bring in a pipe wrench. It can be somewhat therapeutic to deform the base to the point that the pipe wrench can really grab hold of it. 😁
 
PowerEngineer said:
Yes, I start with a needlenose. But if it puts up a fight then I bring in a pipe wrench. It can be somewhat therapeutic to deform the base to the point that the pipe wrench can really grab hold of it. 😁
Click to expand...


Exactly how big are your recessed light housings?
 
I always used needle nose pliers. I never turned off the breakers, though, just the switch. Am I supposed to do that?

I never remember turning off the breakers, anyway....


.......hmm, I don't remember a lot of things.
 
The "rule" among pros is to remove any possibility of power on the circuit right at the breaker (or fuse) panel. This usually eliminates rare occasions of error such as:

turned off the wrong switch
someone turns it back on while you are working without knowing

In addition for an extra step, pros often verify no power by using a voltage meter.

I agree, though, there are times when I have relied only on the switch, but tested to be sure. However, lots of times I'm working on a circuit (for example, replacing a switch or splicing in a new branch) where the ONLY way to shut power off is at the panel.
 
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