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How to mount or remove a bolt-through cooler

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Navid.. I was meaning to post to say what a breeze it was following your excellent instructions! As I said way back in the thread, yours seemed like a clever and simple work around.. and it has turned out to be just that.. so thanks again for taking the time to post!
 
Originally posted by: gba
Navid.. I was meaning to post to say what a breeze it was following your excellent instructions! As I said way back in the thread, yours seemed like a clever and simple work around.. and it has turned out to be just that.. so thanks again for taking the time to post!
Click to expand...

Ditto!
I cut the motherboard trays but for many cutting their cases isn't a viable option, this simple, fast and effective solution will save many from the peel n' stick blues! Your inginuity should be rewarded...:cookie:
 
Originally posted by: WoodButcher
Originally posted by: arjoreich
Still, all said and done, I'm going to use this same method to stabilize my ThermalRight Ultra-120 eXtreme mounts tonight...I just wish I could figure out what kind of non-conductive foam rubber is used on the stock backplate and use it instead...
Click to expand...
Peel and stick to the backplate and then to a baggie, cut the excess and your good to go. If you must relace it I used a high density weather stripping I bought at the hardware store. I could only get the stuff 1/4" thickness by 3/4" wide, so I applied it to the backplate and filleted it like a flounder.
Click to expand...

I think that's a fantastic idea! :thumbsup: I will do exactly that when I get my Tuniq.
 
arjoreich, I must apologise for my jest at your opinion, I went to wiki to look-up pyrolysis the other night before replying to understand what you were speaking of. In order for pyrolysis to occur the fuel must breakdown to it's elemental properties if I understand this correctly. This won't happen in your PC.
I'm looking into this guy's invention which uses a similar reaction to get better gas milage being sold here. They haven't finished so these people want you to buy what they don't have finished yet!

Once again I am sorry to have poked fun at your thoughts, I didn't mean to offend and hope by doing so discourage you from posting at Anandtech again. This joint needs people who think outside the box and do their damnedest to fit it back in. Welcome to the forums.
 
Well this was a great idea and worked for the most part for my DS3L and Tuniq tower in my P182. The problem came when I tried to actually fasten the screws. There was only about 1/2 inch between the top of the tower and the exhaust fans at the back side. There was no way to even get the screws into the hole even if I removed the fan. I had to take out the board. Might work with a different board, but i've given up.
 
Originally posted by: Throckmorton
Why did they get rid of those clips that Socket A had in favor of this hokey screw and backplane stuff?
Click to expand...

One word: hedgehog. I had one of those on a KT7A and it ripped the damn socket right off the board.
 
Originally posted by: gba
Navid.. I was meaning to post to say what a breeze it was following your excellent instructions! As I said way back in the thread, yours seemed like a clever and simple work around.. and it has turned out to be just that.. so thanks again for taking the time to post!
Click to expand...
You are welcome.

Originally posted by: WoodButcher
Ditto!
I cut the motherboard trays but for many cutting their cases isn't a viable option, this simple, fast and effective solution will save many from the peel n' stick blues! Your inginuity should be rewarded...:cookie:
Click to expand...
Thank you.
 
Originally posted by: Navid
Originally posted by: gba
Navid.. I was meaning to post to say what a breeze it was following your excellent instructions! As I said way back in the thread, yours seemed like a clever and simple work around.. and it has turned out to be just that.. so thanks again for taking the time to post!
Click to expand...
You are welcome.

Originally posted by: WoodButcher
Ditto!
I cut the motherboard trays but for many cutting their cases isn't a viable option, this simple, fast and effective solution will save many from the peel n' stick blues! Your inginuity should be rewarded...:cookie:
Click to expand...
Thank you.
Click to expand...

lol holy thread ressurection batman!

http://i31.photobucket.com/alb...esurrection_batman.jpg
 
Originally posted by: TwwIX
Is this kit meant to come with an insulator? http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/lgbowiscsp.html
Because, all i have received is the backplate and the screws.
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Thanks for pointing this out. I have added a note to the original post about it.

I suspect that the manufacturer have removed the insulator for cutting cost. They must have figured out that most motherboards do not have any components that would come up so high in that area to make contact with the backplate.
 
How do you remove the pushpins from the mounting brackets that come with the coolers? The sidewinder kit came with just the backplate and screws, and I need to get the screws into the holes in the bracket the push pins are currently occupying. Is there a way to remove them without breaking them?

Edit: Nevermind, upon closer inspection they aren't too difficult to disassemble.
 
Back to the original post...
What about MB temps with an insulator against the back of it?
Doesn't this increase them since you no longer have air flow behind that CPU chip?

(After reading this, I plan to cut a hole in the back of my mounting tray the next time that I have my MB out -- I like that idea. Then I'm going to add an old WC mount -- another good idea -- and maybe I won't even need the hole!)
 
Originally posted by: DavidK21770
What about MB temps with an insulator against the back of it?
Doesn't this increase them since you no longer have air flow behind that CPU chip?
Click to expand...

One thing is for sure. It will not help.
It may be negligible if most of the cooling is done by coolers on the top side.
 
Originally posted by: DavidK21770
Back to the original post...
What about MB temps with an insulator against the back of it?
Doesn't this increase them since you no longer have air flow behind that CPU chip?

(After reading this, I plan to cut a hole in the back of my mounting tray the next time that I have my MB out -- I like that idea. Then I'm going to add an old WC mount -- another good idea -- and maybe I won't even need the hole!)
Click to expand...

Don't bother - I had a custom sink machined that very efficiently transferred heat from the back of the LGA775 area to the motherboard tray and was very disappointed with the lack of VCORE temp drops at the highest stress levels.
 
Originally posted by: DavidK21770
Then I'm going to add an old WC mount --
Click to expand...

What I like about the bolt-through kit is that you can tighten the screws as far as they go. You don't have to worry about breaking the CPU if you tighten too much.

How is a water cooling mount tightened?
 
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