How to fix misaligned door?

Noah Abrams

Golden Member
Feb 15, 2018
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So the door is sitting higher on the side of the door handle (seen below). Thus the latch does not go into the hole. Searched youtube and google. Lots of things, but they seem trial and error and I don't want to damage something. Is there a simple solution? Thank you

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mindless1

Diamond Member
Aug 11, 2001
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Look at the left and right side gaps. If the left is wider than the right then you want a small shim (piece of wood, cardboard, whatever) behind the top door hinge plate, between it and the frame. You probably won't need more than about 1/32" to 1/16", something like one or two layers of cardboard from a cereal box if you lack the wood working equipment to make a wood shim that thin. If you can see it installed and that's a problem then you can paint it white before putting it in.

If the right is wider than the left, you want to chisel out a small depth deeper for the hinge plate to sit in, in the door OR frame behind the lower hinge plate. If a large difference is needed, some people might take a little material off both to make it less noticeable.

If both the L & R gaps are about the same then ideally you would do both of the above, half as much, but from the picture it looks like there is enough gap on the left that I might try just a shim on top first as that is more reversible by taking it out, than removing material from the door or frame at the bottom then trying to put it back.

Chiseling out either to a deeper depth you would put the chisel at the top and bottom of the gap at a right angle to the wood and strike it to cut to the depth you want removed, then come back and chisel at a steep angle to remove the vertical chips of wood along the grain till it's an even depth. I suppose you could do that with a big pocket knife or even a steak knife but it would take a LOT longer.

After an adjustment to the top or bottom you may want to loosen the middle hinge if present and retighten it down to adjust for the new difference between the top and bottom hinge.

If either of those methods aren't enough because the door frame has shifted too much, then you can do it the hard way and take off the frame and cut it down on the back (so it fits *any* door with standard dimensions), or the easier way is take off the door and trim it down, so it only fits right in that frame. Cutting either down and having it look good/true, you probably need a table saw or something else with a guide, rather than a hand saw.

If the house continues to shift or this is a seasonal thing with different humidity levels causing the wood to swell and shrink, it may need readjusted again or still need the door cut down.

Before you do any of this, make sure the sides of the frame are nailed in good, not just coming loose.
 
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Greenman

Lifer
Oct 15, 1999
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The strike for the latch wasn't installed in the proper location. The door shifted an 1/8 or less, but the strike is off by 3/8. I'd put a 3" screw in the bottom hinge to pull it in slightly, and move the strike down so it's centered on the latch, then fill in above the strike plate. Half hour job.
 

Noah Abrams

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Feb 15, 2018
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Thank you both for the replies

mindless - I am a little unclear on the meaning of right and left - because it depends on where you are looking from, inside the room or outside. The picture is from the inside of the room. So looking this way, the gap at the top is higher on the right side. So where should I put that piece of cardboard? Top hinge on the door side? Thanks
 

mindless1

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Aug 11, 2001
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Yes from the inside of the room as pictured. Do you mean the gap ON the top is higher on the right side as stated, or the gap on the right side is higher at the top which is what I meant?

I was not referring to the top but rather both sides. The top of the door nearly rubbing the top of the frame will correct itself when a shim or recess is put into one of the hinges. That essentially rotates the door very slightly.

Yes try a piece of cardboard in the top hinge. I would put it between the hinge and frame but between the hinge and door will have the same effect.
 

Humpy

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Mar 3, 2011
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Seeing those strike plate screws mashed in there any old way makes me want to kick a puppy.
 

Greenman

Lifer
Oct 15, 1999
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Seeing those strike plate screws mashed in there any old way makes me want to kick a puppy.
They bored the hole to big and had to angle the screws to get a bite. I'd like to say I'd never done that before, but sometimes you just have to get the job done...
 

mindless1

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Fill the holes with sawdust (or pencil shavings if you don't have sawdust lying around) mixed with just enough wood glue to make a gooey mess, tamp it down into the existing holes to completely fill, dry a couple days then redrill undersized starter holes.
 

Greenman

Lifer
Oct 15, 1999
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Fill the holes with sawdust (or pencil shavings if you don't have sawdust lying around) mixed with just enough wood glue to make a gooey mess, tamp it down into the existing holes to completely fill, dry a couple days then redrill undersized starter holes.
Why not just buy a can of wood filler? Either way, the repair requires a trip back to job for a carpenter, and that's why it wasn't done right. Those two screws end up costing $50 each.
 

boomerang

Lifer
Jun 19, 2000
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I'd like to see a picture of the whole door to see the margins all the way around it.

Plus, there is no history provided by the OP. Has this been a long term problem, one that just cropped up? Was the door and jam recently replaced? Cracks in the drywall? Sloping floors? Old house that was fixed up?

Lots of questions. What I'm getting at is whether it's worth it to band-aid fix it when there are far more serious problems underlying the issue that could be or worse, should be, addressed. A striker plate 3/8" off in a factory made door and jam assembly is a bunch, especially when the margin around the door doesn't reflect that degree of error. I know the cheapest supplier gets the sale but...

Is it warranty work? I just had them out to shim the hinges on every swing door in the house after six months of ownership. They hadn't sagged, they were installed incorrectly initially. Every one was binding on the hinge side at the bottom.
 

mindless1

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Aug 11, 2001
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Why not just buy a can of wood filler? Either way, the repair requires a trip back to job for a carpenter, and that's why it wasn't done right. Those two screws end up costing $50 each.
The assumption is anyone will have sawdust (or pencil shavings) and glue, so DIY costs nothing including no driving to get 100X more wood filler than needed. Then again merely screwing the strike plate in with straighter screws isn't going to move the left side of the door down.
 

Humpy

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Mar 3, 2011
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They bored the hole to big and had to angle the screws to get a bite. I'd like to say I'd never done that before, but sometimes you just have to get the job done...

The screw holes are ~1 1/2"" on center, can't imagine grabbing a bit that big to make the hole. The screws are crooked because they were put in by a sicko who should never be allowed to pick up any tool other than maybe a broom.
 

Humpy

Diamond Member
Mar 3, 2011
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As to the topic, it's probably as simple as tightening a screw that's already there. OP, look a the bottom hinge on the door jamb and see if one screw looks different. Tighten that one. If they all look the same, remove one closest to the stop and replace it with a 3" screw as mentioned earlier. Carefully tighten it and watch what happens. The strike plate doesn't need to be moved.
 

Noah Abrams

Golden Member
Feb 15, 2018
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Ok I tried shimming in various ways - one piece of cardboard, two pieces - top hinge, also middle hinge. Nothing worked. Mostly what it did was to hung the door downwards too much on the left side (the latch side) so that it wouldn't close.

Note that by default (nothing added) the gap on both the left and right vertical seems uniform all along.

Regarding Humpy's last post, I have already checked all the screws in all the hinges. I will put in a 2 or 3 inch screw at the bottom hinge (on the door side or frame side - I think either would be the same) and see if that makes a difference. I want to avoid moving the strike plate, enlarging and filling the latch hole, and new screw locations for the strike plate - all of that, if I can.
 

jmagg

Platinum Member
Nov 21, 2001
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The strike for the latch wasn't installed in the proper location. The door shifted an 1/8 or less, but the strike is off by 3/8. I'd put a 3" screw in the bottom hinge to pull it in slightly, and move the strike down so it's centered on the latch, then fill in above the strike plate. Half hour job.
 

mindless1

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Aug 11, 2001
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If shimming makes it go too far left then chisel out the bottom hinge area instead, and/or cut the door to fit, or tear the frame out and cut or shim behind it.

It's not that the strike plate wasn't installed in the right location, assuming the door did latch when new. The frame has shifted so if you don't want to take parts of the frame off to readjust it, you're left either changing the door, hinges, or moving the hole up.

Frankly I don't like trying to move a hole that little, might sooner cut that bit of wood out, put in a new piece of wood, drill a new hole, putty and paint, OR get a longer striker plate so when you enlarge the hole, the screws are further away and you're putting straight new holes in unmolested wood.

Keep in mind that if the frame continues to shift, eventually it's going to rub at the top which is why moving the striker alone may not solve this permanently.
 
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Humpy

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Regarding Humpy's last post, I have already checked all the screws in all the hinges. I will put in a 2 or 3 inch screw at the bottom hinge (on the door side or frame side - I think either would be the same) and see if that makes a difference. I want to avoid moving the strike plate, enlarging and filling the latch hole, and new screw locations for the strike plate - all of that, if I can.


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Humpy

Diamond Member
Mar 3, 2011
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The way those screws split that door makes me as nuts as the crooked strike screws make you.

Haha. The picture is from "Fine Homebuilding" too!

Mortised with a hatchet, screws probably beat in with a hammer... I thought it fit well with the thread.
 

Greenman

Lifer
Oct 15, 1999
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Haha. The picture is from "Fine Homebuilding" too!

Mortised with a hatchet, screws probably beat in with a hammer... I thought it fit well with the thread.
It is a little course, nothing some caulking and a few coats of paint won't fix. Assuming someone actually paints the edge of the door.