How to fix a leaky valve under the sink?

[JEDI]

(Stole this pic from TechBoyJK but it looks like the same valve I have.)

it seems to be leaking at the metal knob. if u enlarge the pic, u can see a screw.
I tried to tighten the screw but it wouldn't budge so I guess it's tight as it can be.

so how to fix? (I own the house.)
Thx

 

[Greenman]

The screw holds the knob on. There is a nut right under the the knob that needs to be tightened, hold the valve body with a wrench and tighten the nut right under the knob with another wrench. It's called the packing nut.

 

[JEDI]

The screw holds the knob on. There is a nut right under the the knob that needs to be tightened, hold the valve body with a wrench and tighten the nut right under the knob with another wrench. It's called the packing nut.

thx. im assuming remove the screw/knob first?

 

[TechBoyJK]

thx. im assuming remove the screw/knob first?

Also, shut off your water in case something breaks.....

 

[waffleironhead]

thx. im assuming remove the screw/knob first?

You should, it will make getting a wrench on the nut easier. If tightening the nut doesn't solve the leak, the packing washer inside the nut may have failed. In that case you would have to remove the nut and replace the washer.

 

[MrPickins]

You should, it will make getting a wrench on the nut easier. If tightening the nut doesn't solve the leak, the packing washer inside the nut may have failed. In that case you would have to remove the nut and replace the washer.

If you're going to that much trouble, you might as well replace the whole thing with a new 1/4 turn valve.

 

[waffleironhead]

If you're going to that much trouble, you might as well replace the whole thing with a new 1/4 turn valve.

Yeah, I'm cheap that way. New washer is cheaper than a new valve.

 

[Belegost]

Also a key point when tightening - use a second wrench or pliers to hold the valve body still. This way the torque is not being applied to the pipe, which could lead to the situation seen in the image.

 

[MrPickins]

Yeah, I'm cheap that way. New washer is cheaper than a new valve.

The valve is something like $5 and will last practically forever.

The washer/gasket will eventually need replacing again, costing more money and time.

Also a key point when tightening - use a second wrench or pliers to hold the valve body still. This way the torque is not being applied to the pipe, which could lead to the situation seen in the image.

:thumbsup:

Notice how the body of the valve is hexagonal.

 

[BTRY B 529th FA BN]

even though they are not pretty for a bathroom a 1/2" 1/4 turn ball valve would last a very long time, those valves in the picture suck

 

[GagHalfrunt]

Ahhh, sometimes this place is actually helpful. Just got this problem today, was trying to fix a drip, replaced a washer and when I turned the water back on the valve leaked. Came here to ask, found this thread, turned packing nut, problem solved. Thanks, even though it wasn't my thread.

Good thing too, can't get to the outside water main valve to turn it off and replace the entire fitting, it's snowed over.

 

[tsiunltdus]

I would suggest buying a new one if your going to that much trouble.

 

[bryanl]

You can fix that leak without even shutting off the water at the outdoor main valve. Close that valve and verify it doesn't leak by opening the faucet. Remove the handle and then unscrew the large hex nut underneath while holding the faucet in place with a Cresent or open end wrench. The washer will be a flat rubber washer. Hardware stores sell new washers in bulk, and it's OK to use a somewhat thicker one. Lubricating the washer's hole or the valve shaft with silicone oil or grease will make turning it easier.

 

[feralkid]

even though they are not pretty for a bathroom a 1/2" 1/4 turn ball valve would last a very long time, those valves in the picture suck

The 1/4 turn shut-off valves ARE ball valves. And darn pretty as well.

The old style are compression valves.

 

[waffleironhead]

You can fix that leak without even shutting off the water at the outdoor main valve. Close that valve and verify it doesn't leak by opening the faucet. Remove the handle and then unscrew the large hex nut underneath while holding the faucet in place with a Cresent or open end wrench. The washer will be a flat rubber washer. Hardware stores sell new washers in bulk, and it's OK to use a somewhat thicker one. Lubricating the washer's hole or the valve shaft with silicone oil or grease will make turning it easier.

:thumbsup:

 

[lupi]

I have a couple toilet/sink isolation valves that I'd love to replace rather than just swap out another washer. My valves are all welded on one side though so it becomes a bit trickier.

 

[emperus]

I have a couple toilet/sink isolation valves that I'd love to replace rather than just swap out another washer. My valves are all welded on one side though so it becomes a bit trickier.

If they are accessible, welding them on/off shouldn't be that bad. Or just cut them off and weld on the new ones. Or if you want something simple, cut them off and purchase Shark Bite valves (push on fittings).

 

[DrPizza]

If they are accessible, welding them on/off shouldn't be that bad. Or just cut them off and weld on the new ones. Or if you want something simple, cut them off and purchase Shark Bite valves (push on fittings).

Uh, weld? I think you mean solder them on. I'm sure he's done, as it's been a few weeks. But, if his repairs are only occasional, the shark bite fittings (or whatever they're called at Lowes) would be cheaper than purchasing a soldering kit if he doesn't already have one.

 

[lupi]

The further problem is that I have no master water isolation valve other than the cutoff as part of the water mater in the front lawn.

But I will get to test how well my kitchen sink valves are holding up since I replaced the rings in them about 2 years ago. Kitchen sink over the last week developed a drip so need to change out internals in the hot or cold there this weekend.

 

[emperus]

Uh, weld? I think you mean solder them on. I'm sure he's done, as it's been a few weeks. But, if his repairs are only occasional, the shark bite fittings (or whatever they're called at Lowes) would be cheaper than purchasing a soldering kit if he doesn't already have one.

Sorry meant solder. Not sure why I even typed weld.

 

[CarpetCleaningM]

you need to shut off you water line, then work on this issue.

 

[emperus]

you need to shut off you water line, then work on this issue.

Also, maybe a good time to install or have installed a water shutoff or a couple inside your house.

 

[Greenman]

I have a couple toilet/sink isolation valves that I'd love to replace rather than just swap out another washer. My valves are all welded on one side though so it becomes a bit trickier.

I've never heard of a sweat on angle stop, are you sure that's what you have?