Originally posted by: DarkManX
i dont wanna spend 100$ getting a pro detail job, if i take it to a car wash get it dried and nice and clean whats the best spray on wax? i just want it to shine for a lil longer then 2 days!
Ok...since it doesn't sound like you want to do any paint correction I'll take you through a decent process that will get decent results.
1. Washing your car
- What I like to do is spay a little QD on the car as a safe "pre-wash" to help loosen up any built in gunk and other crap. This is completley optional. Get a decent car wash soap, this is a biggie. Don't use dish soap or some other crap. I like Meguiar's Gold Class. It's inexpensive and works quite well. There are many other OTC washes that will work quite well.
- Here's an important tip- Use TWO buckets to wash your car. One bucket for your soap and one to rinse your mitts . This will help keep dirt and sediment in the rinse bucket and keep it from getting back on your mitt and scratching your paint.
- Start with a high pressure spray of water. Spray from the top down
- Use your mitt (preferably a 100% sheepskin mitt. These are easily found at any decent auto store and while they cost a little more they are WELL worth the extra bucks. Buy 2) and start from the top down and wash one panel at a time. Now, if you're fast I imagine you could wash the entire car before rinsing but you're just asking for the soap to dry and having to do it all over again.
- After your panel is nice and soapy dump the mitt in the rinse bucket and spray the panel down. Now some will say to dry the panel at this time and others will say to save the drying for last. Personally, I save drying the vehicle for last (much less risk of getting gunk on your drying towels) but keep an eye on the washed panels. Make sure they don't dry out as you'll get water spots and have to wash again.
- Proceed with the previous step throughout the vehicle. Again, top down. Save the lower areas for last as they will be the most dirty. Rinse your mitts often and change between each mitt. Save the wheels and tires for last. I have a specific mitt for my wheels and tires as they girt dirty, real dirty.
- Now, before you dry your car, take your nozzle off your hose and turn the water down, way down. Let a nice, steady stream of water flow over your car. This does two things. One, it is great for wisking away any extra soap, and two, it helps sheet off the water on the vehicle. It makes the drying process MUCH, MUCH easier.
- Drying you car is easy. Just be sure to use a good drying medium. I prefer Waffle-Weave Microfiber Drying towels. Again, you can find these at a local Auto Parts store although I prefer to order them online. Pick up a couple just in case one drops on the ground. The last thing you want to do is run a dirty towel over your car.
2. Clay the Car
- Claying the car is one of the most important things you can do for your paintwork (other than proper washing technique). Just about any OTC clay will do the trick although I prefer Mother's or Meguiar's clay...which also usually comes with a bottle of Quick Detailer. Should run around $15. In case you're wondering what clay does, it removes all those embedded contaminants that are in your paintwork. Feel your paint, it's probably gritty and not smooth. After claying your paint should feel very smooth and buttery.

- Clay is very easy to use. The key is very little pressure, plenty of lube, and patience.
- Begin by cuting the clay in multiple pieces. I usually cut up a solid piece of clay into 4. This will give you pieces of clay that are easier to use and manipulate AND if you accidently drop your clay you have extra pieces handy.
- Next, knead your clay a bit to soften it up. If it's cold outside clay will not be effective. However, if it's too hot, it will just end up being a sticky mess. I like to clay in 50-60 degree weather (although I live in Alaska), OR, a garage.
- Once soft, spray a liberal amount of QD on your first panel and begin to go in a back and forth motion. Again, go lightly to get the hang of it. Check your clay frequently, pick of the large bits of rocks and other grime and knead when it begins to look dirty. Once one panel is done, take a clean drying towel and dry the panel off. As long as the QD is dry you will NOT need to re-wash the car.
- Just follow the above steps until the car has been completley clayed. I like to clay my wheels as well, but once I use a piece of clay on my wheels it gets designated as "wheel clay" and will never touch my paint again.
-OPTIONAL-
- Get a spray bottle and mix 50% Distilled Water and 50% Isopropyl Alcohol (the 70% stuff is fine). Spray on the car and wipe off. Waxes LOVE clean, clean surfaces and this will just ensure that your surface is as clean as possible.
3. Wax your car
- Usually I would inspect the paint work and go through a process of polishing using various pads and polishes with my Random-Orbital Buffer. Since you don't seem to be too concerned with this then go ahead and go straight to using a nice wax. Also, it seems like you are much more interested in using a "All-In-One" so I won't speak too much about waxes, sealants, and glazes.
- I would recommend two options.
1. My preffered option would be to order some Klasse All-In-One online. There are many stores that sell this, and if you'd like I can PM you a few of my favorites,
2. Pick up some NXT Wax. This stuff is easily purchased at many local stores and gets real good reviews. Now, I've never used it myself but, then again, I've never used any OTC wax. I'm sure there are quite a few others that work just as well.
- Get a couple good Microfiber towels or sponges (prefer online but can be purchased at any good Auto Parts store) and a spray bottle of Distilled Water. Spray your microfiber towel, LIGHTLY with the water and then put a dab of wax on it. Start with a panel and begin to go in a back and forth motion with the wax. Now, the key is to read the directions given on the bottle. Some waxes can be taken off immediately and some need a little time to sit on the surface. Regardless of the wax, you should be able to do the whole car prior to needing to take any off.
- Remember, LESS IS MORE. Good waxes take very little for it to be put on the car. You should only see a light haze on your car after you fully work it in. If you use too much you'll be cursing yourself when you go to take it off.
- Now it's time to remove the wax. Take a clean MF towel and lightly spritz with the Distilled Water. The wax should come off easily, or at least with minimal work. If it's becoming a bit of a pain, take your 50/50 Alc/Water spray and lightly spray on the panel. This will help remove the extra wax.
That's about it. I'd suggest using a nice tire dressing for your tires. Personally, I like 303 Aerospace protectant due to the matte finish, plus it's the BEST protectant for your interior and trim pieces. You can get this online or at Harbor Frieght (if you have one locally).
That's about it. Acutally, get some newspaper and some Stoner's Invisible Glass and wipe down your windows.
Ok, now that's it. Enjoy and have fun!