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How often should you re-torque wheel nuts?

M

Mark R

Diamond Member
I always re-torque my wheel nuts about 50 miles or so after having the wheels off, and I do this with an OK quality torque wrench.

I recently had my rear wheels off and when they went back on, they were torqued to spec. Now, a few days later, I went to recheck them.

Just for giggles I also checked the torque on my front wheels which haven't been touched for months, but I would have been the last person to torque them and would have torqued them to spec. I found that a couple of nuts had lost about 1/8 turn, which surprised me a bit.

Maybe I should be rechecking a bit more regularly.
 
I used to re-torque lugs too until one day when driving along I realized that the percentage of cars I saw driving around that had their lug nuts re-torqued had to be infinitesimally small. Despite that, there were not cars all over the side of the road with wheels that had come off. Yes, they do lose some torque after a few heating and cooling cycles. Does it hurt to re-torque them? Of course not. Is it necessary? That's a decision we all can make for ourselves.

A story for anyone interested in reading further. Some of you may know that I crewed on a car racing team for ten years. In that time frame we went from amateur to professional racing. The guy that owned the team and drove one of the three cars wanted lug nuts not torqued to what was manufacturers specs of 100 ft/lbs but to 80 ft/lbs. This we did and in ten seasons we never lost a wheel. When I asked him why 80 instead of 100 he replied that 80 was the maximum torque the wheel studs we used should be torqued to. For that diameter fastener, 80 ft/lbs was the correct torque. He saw no advantage to over-tightening them, only a potential disadvantage.
 
I only do it when they're taken off and put back on.


However, at the track, once in the morning then a few times a day.
 
boomerang said:
I used to re-torque lugs too until one day when driving along I realized that the percentage of cars I saw driving around that had their lug nuts re-torqued had to be infinitesimally small. Despite that, there were not cars all over the side of the road with wheels that had come off. Yes, they do lose some torque after a few heating and cooling cycles. Does it hurt to re-torque them? Of course not. Is it necessary? That's a decision we all can make for ourselves.

A story for anyone interested in reading further. Some of you may know that I crewed on a car racing team for ten years. In that time frame we went from amateur to professional racing. The guy that owned the team and drove one of the three cars wanted lug nuts not torqued to what was manufacturers specs of 100 ft/lbs but to 80 ft/lbs. This we did and in ten seasons we never lost a wheel. When I asked him why 80 instead of 100 he replied that 80 was the maximum torque the wheel studs we used should be torqued to. For that diameter fastener, 80 ft/lbs was the correct torque. He saw no advantage to over-tightening them, only a potential disadvantage.
Click to expand...

I'd like to know where he got that info from. I don't know how any competent car lug manufacture would recommend a torque that would break the bolt.

Theres more to a lug/bolt then just size.
 
After I torque them at install I go around the star a 2nd time. I never have checked them several miles later. I've never had one loosen up on me.

Not saying it is right or wrong, just saying what I do. Heck for a few years I didn't even have a torque wrench, so I just went by the German torque spec, which I realize I was probably overtightening the lug nuts as I have a tendency to crank stuff down.
 
michal1980 said:
I'd like to know where he got that info from. I don't know how any competent car lug manufacture would recommend a torque that would break the bolt.

Theres more to a lug/bolt then just size.
Click to expand...

http://www.cncexpo.com/MetricBoltTorque.aspx

M12 X 1.75 The hardness of the lug studs we used were about the hardness of a Socket Head Cap Screw. We used anti-seize on all the lugs so they were Lubed.

Remember that the lugs loose torque over heating and cooling cycles until they stabilize at a lower torque value than they are initially torqued to. Car manufacturers aren't giving out specs that will "break" the stud, they give out one that will ensure adequate torque when the torque decreases through normal means. You also have to remember that the fastener will accept a higher torque value without breaking or being on the verge of breaking. There has to be a cushion built in. A proper torque value will stretch the threads to a degree that will ensure retention without fatiguing the fastener.

Our cars had the wheels removed numerous times a day. Morning practice, qualifying, race. Two heats a day when we were amateur racing. New tires, bleeding brakes after every time out on the track, they came off and on a lot.

And to your last statement, I'm sorry but I really disagree. The size of the fastener is by far the biggest determinate of a proper torque value. The chart I linked to will show you some other factors.
 
Mark R said:
I always re-torque my wheel nuts about 50 miles or so after having the wheels off, and I do this with an OK quality torque wrench.

I recently had my rear wheels off and when they went back on, they were torqued to spec. Now, a few days later, I went to recheck them.

Just for giggles I also checked the torque on my front wheels which haven't been touched for months, but I would have been the last person to torque them and would have torqued them to spec. I found that a couple of nuts had lost about 1/8 turn, which surprised me a bit.

Maybe I should be rechecking a bit more regularly.
Click to expand...
its probably normal and since you said only a couple turned by about 1/8 then maybe its more the technique you use. Or the torque wrench is slightly out of calibration.
 
SparkyJJO said:
After I torque them at install I go around the star a 2nd time. I never have checked them several miles later. I've never had one loosen up on me.
Click to expand...
I always torque in a star pattern and then go around a second time in a circular pattern. The first lug tightened always accepts more torque. The rest not so much if at all.
 
I only check them after tire rotation or replacement, I haven't heard that it was a needed check seeing as most are around 100 ft/lbs I didn't know that them becoming loose was an issue.
 
Usually after a drive after I put them back on which is about every 5000 miles. I keep my torque wrench in the trunk just in case i need it though.
 
boomerang said:
http://www.cncexpo.com/MetricBoltTorque.aspx

M12 X 1.75 The hardness of the lug studs we used were about the hardness of a Socket Head Cap Screw. We used anti-seize on all the lugs so they were Lubed.

Remember that the lugs loose torque over heating and cooling cycles until they stabilize at a lower torque value than they are initially torqued to. Car manufacturers aren't giving out specs that will "break" the stud, they give out one that will ensure adequate torque when the torque decreases through normal means. You also have to remember that the fastener will accept a higher torque value without breaking or being on the verge of breaking. There has to be a cushion built in. A proper torque value will stretch the threads to a degree that will ensure retention without fatiguing the fastener.

Our cars had the wheels removed numerous times a day. Morning practice, qualifying, race. Two heats a day when we were amateur racing. New tires, bleeding brakes after every time out on the track, they came off and on a lot.

And to your last statement, I'm sorry but I really disagree. The size of the fastener is by far the biggest determinate of a proper torque value. The chart I linked to will show you some other factors.
Click to expand...

I think you need to look at the chart a little closer

Going from a grade 8, to a grade 10 bolt gives you ~50% more torque
Which is very similar to going up one size bolt.

proper torque is whats required for a joint not to slip.
 
Mark R said:
I always re-torque my wheel nuts about 50 miles or so after having the wheels off, and I do this with an OK quality torque wrench.

I recently had my rear wheels off and when they went back on, they were torqued to spec. Now, a few days later, I went to recheck them.

Just for giggles I also checked the torque on my front wheels which haven't been touched for months, but I would have been the last person to torque them and would have torqued them to spec. I found that a couple of nuts had lost about 1/8 turn, which surprised me a bit.

Maybe I should be rechecking a bit more regularly.
Click to expand...


Are you using any thread lube? I rechecked mine a few times way back when but never found any movement so I stopped bothering.
 
For normal street driving I use a torque wrench to put them on after rotation (or any other work that required me to remove them). Sometimes I remember to check them the next week (unlikely). Often I'll give them a quick check before a long road trip (while checking air pressure).
 
I usually just do the star twice. First couple nuts typically accept a little more torque. I've never found a loose nut using this technique.
 
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