As a newbie to this modding business, let me tell you what's happened to me so far.
I know how to put a pc together and install windows, but as far as sleeving the psu, cutting holes, etc....never did it, and I didn't feel comfortable doing it.
So I thought I would just buy a case that was already modded. I went and ordered a LL PC60 from a fly by night group called UMAXPC. It took a month for them to deliver the box, even though the companys in the next state 100 miles away. When I got the case it looked nothing like the picture...no cut out blowhole, and they didn't even install the pexiglass window. What's worse is that I discovered that they had actually ordered the case from FrozenCPU (invoice dropped out of the box) then tacked on thier "exclusive modding price" I got Burned big time on that one, and since it took numerous angry e-mails to even get the case delivered, I could only imagine the fun in getting my money back...so I installed the window myself (which was a real PITA) then figured out where to go from there. I then recieved my sleeving and heatshrink from FrozenCPU to sleeve my new Enermax PSU...word to the wise...some of these "guides" leave out very important info. I discovered that those black ground wires do matter. I ripped a few molex connectors off, and started sleeving them...Sleeving with the heatshrink and tubing is a PITA as well. I looked at my first cable and thought..should the black ground wire be in the same position on the connector as it's proceding mate? No info on the online guides I printed. I posted that question to here and Sharkys, got some help some mixed answers, and discovered too late that I was in over my head when people started talking about measuring things with ohm meters. So I did a simple test with some old cd drives and and old HD, and was sadden to see my PSU cook the drive. At least I knew before I connected it to my new stuff. "nother lesson learned the hard way. So I ordered another Enermax PSU from Performance PC's who will sleeve the PSU for you at a steep price. I do recomend them, the work they do on PSU's is excellent.
So Back to the case...the new LL PC60 comes with a blow hole that wasn't what I wanted. I figured that I did well in kindergarten cutting with scissors, so I bought a dremel read some more guides and threw caution to the wind. I replaced the stock fans with some panaflos that I ordered from FrozenCPU. I then got creative, I replaced the stock blowhole fan with a panaflo 120mm H1a. I wanted to install the fan with out drilling holes to the top of my case. I took two of the bay covers and with a nibbler cut a half-moon shape to each one, then drilled holes to each side of the bay covers, then drilled holes to the inside walls of the case (the ones that the psu slide on). Then I cut my hole...surprise...this one actually worked out great. So if you read the guides, tape your case well, and go slowly, you too can cut basic circles on metal. It probably helps if you were good at cutting things with scissors in kindergarten.
I then cut out the pesky grill on the backside of the motherboard tray, clean up the ragged edges, attached that tubing you that FrozenCPU sells to all the new holes. I also grommeted (is that a word?) all my fans. That project turned out nice, and I did have fun!
Next got my rheobus, I installed my sunbeam, no real issues there.
The next wierd thing I did was replace the bezel. I'm using black drives, because I didn't realize at the time that you can dye, paint or buy ones that are silver. PCMods sells replacement bezels for the old (version1) LL cases. I got a black one for the LL65 that has a silver face plate. My idea was to do a black and silver case...(my cables are silver and blue, and my new Abit board is black) Now on the website, it says that these bezels will not work on the newer cases, specifically the power button, but after my victory with the dremel...I thought I could fix it it unseen....and I was right! Basically the power button has a little hollow plunger mechanism behind it that pushes a button on the case.The plunger on the old version is too short to reach the button on the new case. So after fiddiling with it for a few minutes, I thought of a fix. I took a small nail and clipped of the front end with wire cutters. I inserted the nail into the hollow end of the plunger, and tried it out. The modded button worked fine.
My limited experience doing this....things that look hard may be actually simple, and other things that look easy are actually pretty difficult. So I would spend money rather than waste money by destroying stuff, but it's up to you to figure out your comfort level on the projects you want to do.