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how much is .1 degree of camber

T2urtle

T2urtle

Diamond Member
So i'm lowered with wider wheels then normal.

I'm rubbing on my rear right.

Factory spec for the G35's rear camber is -0.1 to -1.1.

I understand in order for me to not rub, i have to apply more camber. I got a camber kit and toe bolt for the rear to get them into specs. The tech set it to -1.5 L and -1.2 R. I'm rubbing on the RIGHT side. which has -0.3 less camber then the L. Its a really close call on the L but i dont have noises or signs of rub on the sidewall of the LEFT tire. I only rub on the right side when i got thru medium bumps/dips and if i have someone sitting in the rear.

So now my MAIN question is how much exactly is -0.1 of camber? I'm considering asking for a -2.0 on each side so i dont risk rubbing on larger bumps or if i load up on some people. I'm also getting rear fender rolled to aid in avoiding rubbing but that's down the road.
 
My Accord runs more rear camber than that, bone stock.

Ask for more camber, and go to a different tech who doesn't suck and can actually align both wheels the same L/R.
 
degrees-360.gif
 
Divide a circle into 360 degrees, take one of those degrees and divide it into ten parts. That's one tenth of a degree of camber...Nothing!

And the solution isn't camber and rolling the fenders, that just leads to excessive tire ware and ill handling. Wheels with the offset you need are the solution.
 
From what I understand camber is a measurement in degrees from the center of the hub to a point away from it, when looking at it either from in front or from behind.
camber.png


If you have 18” Wheel with maybe 3” rubber, that would make a total of 24” of Wheel+Tire height.
So 24” would be your diameter. To get the circumference we multiply D*pi
24*3.14= 75.36” circumference
75.36” / 360 = 0.209inches per degree
0.1 degree would be approx equal to .0209”

So basically, nothing.

camber2.png
 
check with the fender roller if more camber will be necessary. if you are only driving on the street more camber will just wear your tires out more unevenly.
 
First, get a new mechanic. Second, take it to a real alignment shop...

Just run -2 degrees on both sides and be done with it. Get something like -1.4 degrees in the front, or whatever the most negative it will go (if it won't make -1.4).

Now, also make sure you have ZERO toe both front and back so that your tires don't wear out quickly and weirdly. Unless you're planning to autocross or track your car, you don't need any of the advantages of non-zero toe.
 
A fender roll should handle it. Or camber at -2.0. I gotta find a new mechanic who is better with after market stuff. My toe isn't at zero but its really low, like .05 fronts and .08 rears. No camber kit in the front yet so I'm on the natural camber near -2.5

62e36f68-47a6-67c6.jpg


This is me jacking up the body and tire on two different jacks to see how much body contact I'm making. Its nots too bad that I need a flat fender roll. My fender roller asked me for this shot so he can gauge how much work.

I'm running else tires because it was a really cheap deal that worked when I wasn't lowered.
 
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JCH13 said:
About the same as the thickness of 7 sheets of paper.

If your mechanic can't be bothered to get each wheel to within 0.1*camber, get a new mechanic.
Click to expand...

They should be able to get each side exactly the same unless there is damage. You have to sit there and watch them to be sure, or know the owner. On daily drivers I let my buddy's mechanics at his shop do the alignment. On my fun cars I do the work on his machine. Kiddie mechanics these days don't know how to work with shims nor do they want to mess with them. They don't have the patience to get it right.
 
Ronstang said:
They should be able to get each side exactly the same unless there is damage. You have to sit there and watch them to be sure, or know the owner. On daily drivers I let my buddy's mechanics at his shop do the alignment. On my fun cars I do the work on his machine. Kiddie mechanics these days don't know how to work with shims nor do they want to mess with them. They don't have the patience to get it right.
Click to expand...

You're right, they should be able to make the alignment exact. When I get my Miata aligned I sit in the car while they do it to account for my body weight.
 
BassBomb said:
Go -1.5 on both sides, try that first
Click to expand...

Left is -1.5 and right is -1.2.

The picture is my right rear. Oddly enough, i jacked up both sides and they both make contact almost at the same point. But the right is rubbing for sure due to tiremarks but not the left. I'm getting the fenders rolled and then aiming for -1.7 or -2.0. The car came in rolling on -2.0 and i asked them to try to bring it more to spec.


Yea i should of watched the kid doing it, but there were 2 cars ahead of me waiting to get aligned and i didn;t have the time.

My fender roller guy said a soft roll should be all i needed, He said he is going to try to get a flat but it doesn't look like its needed.
 
Ronstang said:
They should be able to get each side exactly the same unless there is damage. You have to sit there and watch them to be sure, or know the owner. On daily drivers I let my buddy's mechanics at his shop do the alignment. On my fun cars I do the work on his machine. Kiddie mechanics these days don't know how to work with shims nor do they want to mess with them. They don't have the patience to get it right.
Click to expand...

this
 
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