There's a power issue to deal with, here, and a few options. The root of this is the USB specs. The USB2 specs provide from the host USB2 port to the attached device power at 5 VDC up to 0.5 A. Some SSD's MAY operate within those limits although slowly (because USB2 data transfer rate is a bit slow), but there are virtually NO HDD units that can. Even the earlier "Laptop Portable HDD's" came with either their own added power module, or a special 2-headed USB cable that had to be connected to TWO host computer USB2 ports to get enough power to run. The new USB3 specs provide power up to 0.9 A, and "Laptop Portable Hard Drives" are marketed now that DO operate on this power with no additional power module, but ONLY when they are connected to a USB3 port that can provide that power. These units contain small 2½" size low-power-use HDD's to do this. Note that not ALL 2½" HDD's can work within this power limit, although many do. Thus you can buy such complete units, and you can also buy Adapters that connect a 2½" laptop HDD with SATA connections to a host USB3 port. But in order for that to work, you must ensure that the HDD you plan to use CAN work with no more than 0.9 A current for its heaviest current draw.
Now, these options do NOT extend to using 3½" size HDD's designed for use in desktop systems for two major reasons. One is that these typically operate faster and require more than 0.9 A to run. The other is that the desktop units require BOTH 5 VDC and 12 VDC supplies readily available from the desktop's PSU via the SATA power connection, but a USB port of either generation has NO access to 12 VDC.
If you intend to be able to use desktop machine peripherals like HDD's or optical drives, your connection system (enclosure or adapter) MUST provide both the amps and the two voltages needed. Thus your adapter or enclosure MUST include its own power supply module for this - it cannot rely solely on the host computer's USB port.
Now, when we get to external optical drives, we have a similar issue. There are such devices designed to be used with USB3 ports and capable of working within the power limits there, and these are sold as complete finished units like the Laptop Portable Hard Drives. There are VERY few optical drives that are sold as bare units without cases, although some are sold as replacement units for laptop machines. Again, if you were to get such a bare unit for use with an adapter, you would have to be sure it CAN operate within the power limit of the USB3 port. and I'm sire there are NONE that could operate from a USB2 port without a separate power supply module that would have to come with the adapter. Of course, a USB3 Portable Optical Drive (complete unit) can NOT operate on the power from a USB2 port.
So, what are the options?
1. Go entirely USB3. If using a desktop computer without those ports, you could add a USB3 card to the PCIe slots, and that card would come with a connector on board that must have plugged into it a power supply connector from the PSU. (The PCIe bus cannot supply all the power for several USB3 ports, so this connection provides that.) Use the ports on that card for any complete pre-made USB3 Laptop Portable Optical Drive. OR get bare Laptop Optical Drive units with SATA interfaces that you are sure can operate within this power limit AND some USB3-to-SATA adapters that do not have any extra power supply modules. OR get optical drives of whatever size plus adapters that DO come with their own power supply modules and state clearly that they can be used with both 2½" (laptop) and 3½" (desktop) SATA devices. This way gives you all the power your devices need to work, and gives you fast USB data transfer speeds. If the ports on the USB3 card in the PCIe slot are not enough, you can add an external powered USB3 Hub to add more, but be sure the Hub comes with its own adequate power supply module so it does not rely on the host computer's (added) USB3 port for power for all the Hub's drives. If you are working from a laptop machine with no USB3 ports, see the next option.
2. "Cheat" on USB3. Get a powered USB3 Hub - that is, one that comes with its own power supply module so that all its connected devices can have the standard USB3 power availability (still the 0.9 A limit), then use all USB3 devices as above. But for the connection to your computer, use only a USB2 port on the host. This will give the devices all the power of standard USB3 ports, but the data transfer rate will only be USB2 because the host computer's port limits it. This may be a little cheaper becasue you are not buying a USB3 card to mount in the PCIe slot. And of course, it works when you don't even have any PCIe slots for a card.
3. Stick to a USB2 system, but now you need to provide the power needed. You can plan to connect the drive units either to the host's USB2 ports, or to use a non-powered USB2 Hub. I say non-powered because you will have to provide the required power directly to each drive unit - they could not work on USB2 power, anyway. Then you need to mount the SATA optical drive in an enclosure suited to the drive design (laptop 2½" or desktop 3½"), and with its own power supply module. OR you use an adapter that also comes with its own power supply module. Some of these can handle either size of optical or HDD unit, and some can handle only the smaller Laptop Portable drives. But in that last case, you would have to ensure that the optical drive unit you use with the adapter can work within those USB3 power limits, because that's all the adapter can provide. This path may be the least expensive, but you will only get the slower USB2 data tansfer rates, and you will need to esnure that the drives you choose can work with the adapter or enclosure you choose.
OP, that adapter you linked to can work ONLY with USB3 drive units (so they can work within the power limit) AND only with USB3 ports on the host computer that DO suppply that power (Option 1 above) or by using a powered USB3 hub in the line (Option 2).
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