How important use synthetic oil instead regular one?
- Thread starter calahan
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Jimzz
Diamond Member
- Oct 23, 2012
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If you change around 5-6k then regular oil will be fine for most cars. If you change around 10k+ then Syn is preferred.
If you have a turbo, air-cooled, or a very high performance built motor then I would also use a syn. But for most cars regular oil will be fine.
If you have a turbo, air-cooled, or a very high performance built motor then I would also use a syn. But for most cars regular oil will be fine.
the extra cost may not be worth it. for cold weather starting synthetic oil is better as the pour point is better. in other words it flows easier at very cold temperatures so engines get lubrication more quickly.
tweakmonkey
Senior member
I think synthetic oils hold up better / last longer to extreme heat/cool, such as a turbocharged car. If you have a beater, meh.
pauldun170
Diamond Member
- Sep 26, 2011
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It is only important if the manufacturer of your car has specifically listed synthetic oil as the only oil that should be used for your car.
Otherwise its not important at all.
If you are a professional racer and your car spends all day at the track in sub zero weather banging off the rev limiter then by all means, synthetic all the things. It won't make any difference but its always nice to have that extra sticker on the window.
If you really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really love your car and you are going to keep it it forever and ever and ever until it turns 1 million miles, worry more about maintenance intervals.
Summary: Read your owners manual and safely ignore bro sourced word of mouth.
agree with above, and if you happen to consider switching from dino to syn on a pre-2000car, make sure you pay special attention to any new leaks that develop. If you can make the transition and have no problems I think it will result in a cleaner engine but I am not so sure its worth the gamble. I did this on a 95 acura and kept it on syn for years until it got stolen. But it ran like a dream. Right now I have a 05 accord and a 00 elantra and I won't risk transitioning to synthetic.
If you get the oil changed at a shop don't do it because it costs so much more. If you change it yourself its about 8-10 dollars more.
If you get the oil changed at a shop don't do it because it costs so much more. If you change it yourself its about 8-10 dollars more.
If you live in an area with more extreme climate (below freezing for more than a few days or 100+ for more than a few) its very important. All my experience is in hot climates and synthetic keeps going were blend/conventional breaks down into sludge/varnish.
If you have a newer Japanese car that requires 0w-20 synthetic is mandatory and your manufacturer's service interval is based on using synthetic oil.
If you have a newer Japanese car that requires 0w-20 synthetic is mandatory and your manufacturer's service interval is based on using synthetic oil.
thesmokingman
Platinum Member
- May 6, 2010
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^^Yeap, and that is some thin oil.
I kind of think that oil quality is becoming more important as manufacturers are producing tighter and tighter tolerance motors on their quest to lower carbon footprints. I'd feel a lot safer with modern engines in general using synthetics.
I kind of think that oil quality is becoming more important as manufacturers are producing tighter and tighter tolerance motors on their quest to lower carbon footprints. I'd feel a lot safer with modern engines in general using synthetics.
colorblind
Member
- Jul 14, 2007
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DINO HEDO 10X30 or 40 or 15X40 for less then half the price of Synthetics, change the Oil and (WIX or Purolator - FRAM is JUNK) filter every year in the fall for Hi-Perf. Not saying you can't buy 5X30 SAE HEDO for your every day Lo-Perf Ride.
AC Delco, Delvac and Duron are about the best DINO HEDO Oils today.
AC Delco, Delvac and Duron are about the best DINO HEDO Oils today.
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Ok got it, synthetic oil only for Richie Richs' or racers, I am not one or the other
pauldun170
Diamond Member
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Recommended oil for your Avalon is plain old SAE 5W-30 and I'm guessing your oil change interval is 5,000 miles.
evident
Lifer
- Apr 5, 2005
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This is simply not true. you can find deals on synthetic oils all the time, and it's marginally more expensive than regular, but is in general much better quality (pure is what they say) than regular oil. most Outdoor power equipment demand synthetic, and many auto mfr's recommend it as well.
I put synthetic in all the cars i work with, including my RX350 which has the exact same engine as your 11 avalon.
Had an older truck with a big block 454. Towed my race car and trailer with it. There was a very long steep hill on the way to the track. If it was hot out the truck would overheat and I would have to pull over and let it cool for a while.
I switched to synthetic and never had that problem again. Needle never budged off the thermostat temp.
Nothing but synthetic since in all my vehicles.
I switched to synthetic and never had that problem again. Needle never budged off the thermostat temp.
Nothing but synthetic since in all my vehicles.
thesmokingman
Platinum Member
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pauldun170
Diamond Member
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If recommending following the owners manual is the worst post then I'm completely owning having the worst post in the thread.
Unless your car specifically calls for Synth, use whatever meets the manufacturers requirement.
Word of warning on Avalon. My dad had an Avalon near that year and he went 10000 miles without a change (Lord knows why). Well, the engine gunked up and it was all down hill from there. Some light research shows that these vehicles have a lot of oil issues.
This may be a case where you seriously consider synthetic or religiously change oil. Its new enough I don't think the seals are holding together on hardened oil and it might have substantial buildup already where synthetic will help the lifetime. Read up though.
thesmokingman
Platinum Member
- May 6, 2010
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Given the cost and the oil change interval the cost difference in using synthetic is hardly even measurable. For me, the reduced engine wear and better fuel economy more than make up for the slight increase in cost for the oil.
It cost me about $25 for 5 qt's of 5W-20 Mobil 1 and at a 5000 mile change interval that works out to one half penny per mile. If I paid $10 for the same quantity of non-synthetic oil and changed oil at the same interval the cost savings per mile would be 3/10 of a penny. So, given the fact that synthetic tends to give better fuel mileage it may work out that running synthetic is actually cheaper in the long run and that's if you stay with a 5000 mile interval. When you do a 7500 mile interval with synthetic versus 5000 for dino and figure in the better fuel mileage and reduced wear ...
Yeah, using synthetic is for suckers...
Brian
It cost me about $25 for 5 qt's of 5W-20 Mobil 1 and at a 5000 mile change interval that works out to one half penny per mile. If I paid $10 for the same quantity of non-synthetic oil and changed oil at the same interval the cost savings per mile would be 3/10 of a penny. So, given the fact that synthetic tends to give better fuel mileage it may work out that running synthetic is actually cheaper in the long run and that's if you stay with a 5000 mile interval. When you do a 7500 mile interval with synthetic versus 5000 for dino and figure in the better fuel mileage and reduced wear ...
Yeah, using synthetic is for suckers...
Brian
jlee
Lifer
- Sep 12, 2001
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The 2011 Avalon has the 3.5l 2GRFE V6. The 'sludge problems' are on the earlier 3.0l and 3.3l V6's.
I've never had a Toyota with a sludge problem..
1999 Corolla (1.8l 1ZZ-FE) - 198k
1986 MR2 (1.6l 4AGE) - 130k
1998 Tacoma (3.4l 5VZ-FE) - 198k
1999 Tacoma (3.4l 5VZ-FE) - 282k (new owner was amazed at how clean it was under the valve covers)
2005 Tundra (4.7l 2UZ-FE) - ~55k
1997 LX450 (4.5l 1FZ-FE) - 207k
2007 GX470 (4.7l 2UZ-FE) - 107k and counting
My '91 MR2 hasn't had sludge either, but I rev the crap out of it and change oil frequently enough that it'd have a really, really hard time making any if it wanted to.
thesmokingman
Platinum Member
- May 6, 2010
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The 2011 Avalon has the 3.5l 2GRFE V6. The 'sludge problems' are on the earlier 3.0l and 3.3l V6's.
I've never had a Toyota with a sludge problem..
1999 Corolla (1.8l 1ZZ-FE) - 198k
1986 MR2 (1.6l 4AGE) - 130k
1998 Tacoma (3.4l 5VZ-FE) - 198k
1999 Tacoma (3.4l 5VZ-FE) - 282k (new owner was amazed at how clean it was under the valve covers)
2005 Tundra (4.7l 2UZ-FE) - ~55k
1997 LX450 (4.5l 1FZ-FE) - 207k
2007 GX470 (4.7l 2UZ-FE) - 107k and counting
My '91 MR2 hasn't had sludge either, but I rev the crap out of it and change oil frequently enough that it'd have a really, really hard time making any if it wanted to.
And that means it never existed? lol, why so defensive? As if Toyo didn't already lose and agree to settle? What's comical sadly is that since the suit, cars are still affected by this.
http://www.consumeraffairs.com/news04/2007/01/toyota_sludge_settlement.html
pauldun170
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bryanl
Golden Member
- Oct 15, 2006
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100% synthetic should be used if the car came from the factory with synthetic in the engine or the car is an old turbocharged design with no water cooling for the turbo bearings. Synthetic can help in very cold weather since it tends to be thinner than dino oil of the same viscosity ratings, as each viscosity number is for a range of thicknesses.
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