any chance of improper torque causing vibration only at highway speeds?
Not unless the bolts are tightened VERY unevenly. Enough to warp the center of the wheel a bit.
With today's floating rotors, you really aren't going to warp the rotor by over torquing lug nuts. The hub (center section where the stud holes are) of the rotor sits flat against the hub on the car, and the back of the wheel fits flat against that.
Warping rotors by over tightening really applied more to older style rotors, that had the wheel bearings and studs made into them. When you over tightened them, you were pulling on the rotor itself.
Not to say it can't be done with the new stuff, just that it's not real likely.
And I'll give you a dirty little secret about mechanical shops, with few exceptions: Almost nobody uses a torque wrench to tighten lug nuts. They just don't.
A good mechanic who does this stuff all day long can get the torque on each nut pretty close just by feel.....certainly close enough.
Also, they have torque sticks....you put them on the impact gun, and the end of it has whatever size your lug nut is, and they flex and won't let the gun apply too much torque.
So you just run it down until it quits turning and you're good.
As far as other parts of the car go: Nobody, and I mean nobody, uses a torque wrench for transmission bolts. Just run 'em down until they're tight.
Head gaskets? Yep, that's a pretty critical tolerance on most engine.....then again, I knew a dealership engine guy years ago who did those with a 3/8" impact and he did it day after day with no comebacks.
I wouldn't try that one at home, though.
Intake bolts...some do, some don't. Water pump...almost nobody does. Honestly, unless you're an engine BUILDER, there simply isn't as much use of torque wrenches as everyone thinks there is or should be. There are some things mechanics consider 'critical' to use a torque wrench for, but not as many as you might think.